/ Weissmies in mid October

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L barbadose - on 05 Aug 2017
Hey!
We are a group of 4 guys with varying experience in mountaineering but no beginners. We plan to attempt climbing the Weissmies in the Swiss Alps this October taking the Old normal route. In my understanding a traverse (climbing from Old normal - SE staying in the Almageller hut and descending from the Normal route) will not be possible at this time of year due to the lifts being closed. I should point out that we don't intend to take on any route over PD level.

I would like to know whether climbing at this time of year is usually possible, or might the weather conditions make it impassable due to crevasses etc. Also, recommendation for different possible routes are welcome.

Thanks!
99ster - on 05 Aug 2017
In reply to barbadose:

Attempting alpine routes at that time of year you'll find that it will of course be colder, and there's very likely to be significant fresh snow, so very great care needs to be taken if you're crossing a 'wet' glacier as the crevasses are very likely to be covered over, and as there'll be much fewer people around it's likely that the usual pathways across that terrain will not be visible. Many of the huts will be closed, though their winter rooms will remain open (and a stay in a winter room feels like much more of an adventure). So you'll really need to bring all your food + jetboil, etc., with you to cook with. Also, many of the lifts/cable cars will also have closed so the walk-in & walk-out will be significantly harder.
I hope that's of some help.
MG - on 05 Aug 2017
In reply to barbadose:
The lifts may be shut but you can walk - it's not that far! The huts will be shut too of course, but they have winter rooms.

In that area the Lagginhorn is a similar grade but possible without glaciers
Post edited at 18:23
L barbadose - on 05 Aug 2017
In reply to 99ster:

Do you know the area yourself? are there people still climbing 1-2 weeks after the season's over? perhaps skiiers only?
L barbadose - on 05 Aug 2017
Another question about the Weissmies, where do you reckon we should rent the gear (ice axes, crampons etc) ? Visp?
cb294 - on 05 Aug 2017
In reply to barbadose:

If you need to rent axes (taken as a proxy for your alpine experience) you probably should not do Weissmies in October. Fresh snow can make the exposed last section of the S ridge (the route from Almageller hut) tricky and dangerous. The same goes for the summit snow field of Lagginhorn . It can be a simple walk, but can also be a death trap following fresh snow (several incidents in the last few years).

CB
ROB W - on 06 Aug 2017
In reply to barbadose:

Check out alpinerob face book page for some info on the state of the the Weissmies/ Laginhorn/Alalinhorn at the moment August 2017. its not been a good season for the decent glacier many crevasses and and seracs on the the Weissmeis,and it has been re routed by local guides to try and avoid them, I think most folks now are contemplating returning the same way as they went up from the Almageller hut. The route would be possible,at that time of year if all the glaciers were ok, its just a long walk up to the Almageller hut and a loooong walk down from Hosshass to the valley.
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99ster - on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to cb294:

> If you need to rent axes (taken as a proxy for your alpine experience) you probably should not do Weissmies in October. Fresh snow can make the exposed last section of the S ridge (the route from Almageller hut) tricky and dangerous. The same goes for the summit snow field of Lagginhorn . It can be a simple walk, but can also be a death trap following fresh snow (several incidents in the last few years).

> CB

I have to agree - if you don't actually own your own ice axes & crampons that's a bit of a 'red flag' indicating that you're lacking the experience for an alpine route in October.


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