UKC

Ropes for Yoesemite

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I'm off to Yosemite in October for three weeks. The plan is to do a mix of big wall and easy free climbing.

I'm trying to work out which ropes I should take. Mainly so I don't take two much stuff with me.
_______________________
Big Wall

Option A
60m 10mm Single to lead on.
70m 9.5 haul rope

Option B
60m 10mm Single to lead on.
60m 9.5 haul rope
15m old 7mm half rope as a lower out line.
_________________________
Free climbing

Option A

60m 10mm Single (the same one we'll use big walling)
60m 6mm Cord to use as a rap line

Option B
2 50m half ropes.

Please let me know what you'd do.
 timjones 08 Aug 2017
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

> I'm off to Yosemite in October for three weeks. The plan is to do a mix of big wall and easy free climbing.

> I'm trying to work out which ropes I should take. Mainly so I don't take two much stuff with me.

> _______________________

> Big Wall

> Option A

> 60m 10mm Single to lead on.

> 70m 9.5 haul rope

> Option B

> 60m 10mm Single to lead on.

> 60m 9.5 haul rope

> 15m old 7mm half rope as a lower out line.

> _________________________

> Free climbing

> Option A

> 60m 10mm Single (the same one we'll use big walling)

> 60m 6mm Cord to use as a rap line

> Option B

> 2 50m half ropes.

> Please let me know what you'd do.

I'd take 2 70m single ropes and use them for both walls and free climbing, depending on the free routes you climb you may carry the second rope or get the second to tow it up to abseil on or you may not bother choosing to walk off or ab on the one rope halved.
1
 Peter Rhodes 08 Aug 2017
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Unless you are planning a wall with specific awkward traverses I'd be option B but without the lower out line, it's best to tie the bag short on each pitch, saves wear on the rope and is faster. I've never struggled with a 60 doing this on all the classics.

Option A for the free stuff, either as a trail line for the pack or in the seconds rucksack. Means you can bag haul round chimneys etc. This works for walls in a day too with the cord in the bag.
 alex_arthur 08 Aug 2017
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Heading back to Yosemite for three weeks at a similar time. We are going with option A. This seems to have worked ok in the past. Our focus is big wall. Free climbing have used half ropes and just a single which was fine. Most trade routes are very well set up for rapping with one single.

See you out there!
 joe.91 08 Aug 2017
In reply to timjones:

If I were going back again just to free climb I'd take a set of halves, for big wall I'd go for a option B as its what we did last time. It was a right faff tagging a full weight single when free climbing as we didn't take anything smaller.
 timjones 08 Aug 2017
In reply to alex_arthur:

> Heading back to Yosemite for three weeks at a similar time. We are going with option A. This seems to have worked ok in the past. Our focus is big wall. Free climbing have used half ropes and just a single which was fine. Most trade routes are very well set up for rapping with one single.

> See you out there!

It looks like half of UKC will be put there this fall.

Maybe we should meet up for a few beers?

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