/ NEWS: Tainted Love - New Squamish E8/13d Corner by Hazel Findlay

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UKC News - on 10 Aug 2017
Hazel Findlay has established an aesthetic new E8 6c corner climb in Squamish, Canada, which she has named Tainted Love aka Northern Soul. Known for her penchant for awkward, technical corners, Hazel has described this line as being harder than the PreMuir corner and the famous Book of Hate in Yosemite, due to its obtuse angle.

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pasbury on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Has she done The Quarryman yet?
Andrew Popp - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

This doesn't sound very E8 to me.
Peter Walker on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to Andrew Popp:

Quite. Can think of several E9s which are 8a+ climbing with substantial but 'safe' runouts (e.g. The Big Issue), and none of them seem in danger of being downgraded.
Toerag - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

What is the hardest corner pitch in the world? Quarryman? changing corners? something else?
Adam Long - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to Andrew Popp:

Agreed. And hot on the heels of her route in the Wind River range, described as 5.9 or E2. ?
Michael Gordon - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Looks brilliant. Sounds like Hazel needs to do more new routes if she's got multiple names in mind?!
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AJM - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to Toerag:

Quarryman is 8a.

Changing corners is one of the 14a pitches on the nose, although from watching a video it looked like a fair bit of the hard bit was powerful laybacking on the arete of the corner rather than holdless stemming. So maybe a corner but potentially not the same kind of style.
SenzuBean - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:
I saw that route the other day and was thinking it would be ridiculously hard - glad to see it has been done

I think I have a good photo of it I can post
Post edited at 21:27
Smith42 on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Looks like good line/route and well done. But why two names?

Is the pitch a named pitch on a new route? Or was it a local project name and she has renamed it?


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