/ Pointe Percee

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grwooster - on 10 Aug 2017
Hello,

Thinking of climbing Pointe Percee, near sallenches via the chemmine de sallanches from the refuge doran and after some general advice.

Is it a good route?
Is there much loose rock?
What uk scrambling grade do you think it would approximate to?
What climbing gear would you take?

Many thanks in advance
kenr - on 10 Aug 2017

I climbed the Cheminees de Sallanches a couple years ago.
Solo. No refuge stay.
The normal descent route on the W side had snow on it, so I also down-climbed the Cheminees.
I liked it.

I sort of remember maybe it had some hardware in the more difficult sections.

Easier and quicker to approach from the W side parking at Col des Anes.
Which also works better for descending the W-side normal route.

Ken

P.S. a more exciting route (with Via Ferrata cables for aid / protection) is the south-to-north traverse of Mont Charvin in the southern Aravis (above Ugine).

P.S. For even more remarkable climbing situation (sustained arete) and more commitment (and no VF), might consider the East->West traverse of the Aiguille de la Vanoise.
Post edited at 17:18
Lemony - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to grwooster:

My memory is of it being more of a walk with hands than even a scramble.

> P.S. For even more remarkable climbing situation (sustained arete) and more commitment (and no VF), might consider the East->West traverse of the Aiguille de la Vanoise.

That's miles away! The Arete Marion on Pointe de la Blonniere's a good day out at about that grade in the Aravis.
jon on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to grwooster:

Yes, it's a good route of its type. I don't remember anything I'd describe as loose rock. Just don't expect it to look like a chimney though. It makes its way up through some reasonably improbable terrain but it's flashed in yellow paint marks as I remember. We didn't take any gear as it's just a scramble, but quite an exposed one in places, so a short rope and a few slings might make you feel more comfortable. You'd have to come back down it if you started from Doran. I seem to remember that in ascent the last little bit before you reach the summit ridge as being the hardest so that's probably the place where you might decide to use the rope, especially in descent. If in doubt, rope up earlier rather than later!

If you did as Kenr suggested you could descend the voie normale (if it was snow free) which is equally astonishing in the way it finds an easy-ish route through impressive terrain (red flashes I think?) but it does hold the snow for a long time. That said, Doran is a nice place, very pastoral. Don't just walk up the 4x4 track from Burzier though, there's a footpath from the next hamlet - Outredière, I think it's called - but you'd have to check that.
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grwooster - on 11 Aug 2017
In reply to grwooster:

Thanks all for the tips and info. I'll give it a go!
Cheers
Gordon

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