UKC

Rock Displacement, Red Baron, Shipley

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 Cary Grant 14 Aug 2017
Really sorry to say that whilst doing a bit of an evening warm up at Shipley a large (good hand size) felt a little loose. I had a quick look, not thinking too much of it, but the chunk was quite loose so I wiggled it a bit to see if it was just a chock that was lodged, but secure. Turns out it wasn't and the large chunk came out quite easily.
I didn't have a guide book with me as we were just doing a bit of late day bouldering, but I think - pretty sure - it's on Red Baron and has a considerable negative impact on the start of the sit downs (lowers the grade). We eliminated the hold for some problems, but obviously this changes the character of the problems. I think the main two problems that are affected are both 6b (can't remember the names). Upper sections are ok, but the lower section is altered.
It was weird when it happened and I've felt really bad about it, though there was nothing else that I could have done - well I could have left it for someone else, but that hardly felt like the proper thing to do. It's a real shame when routes and problems change because of rock falls or displacements, but I guess that's the way things go.
The new hold is easy and you could rest on it all day, unlike the interesting fingery crimp that was there before. I have photos and the chunk of rock is at the base of the wall, covered ion chalk and never to be pulled on in desperation again
Not sure what, if anything this does to the grade/s, though the sit down is worth very little if you use the new hold as it's very easy to pull up on. Would welcome any insights as to how the grade is altered and if this is Red Baron (the Glen always confuses me, especially as I never take a guide book).
Thanks.
Pete
PS I have photos, but not sure how to embed them and don't really want to post them to my profile - though I will if people want to see.
 Will Hunt 14 Aug 2017
 Steve Perry 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Cary Grant:

If losing the hold is highly detrimental to the grade, you could resin it back into position if you still have it.
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OP Cary Grant 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Will Hunt:

Thanks,
I did think it might be Daz. I've posted the pics. It does detract from the start, but the interesting stuff is above it, however, getting onto the interesting stuff is now almost a scramble (well sort of).
Thanks for reply. I was a bit worried that I was the bearer of bad problem news.
Pete
OP Cary Grant 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Steve Perry:

We joked about that when it happened, but nature is as nature does and routes will change over time. There's a 7b at Caley where a pebble and a bit of resin would make all the difference
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