UKC

Craig Y Tonnau

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 Michael Hood 14 Aug 2017
Anyone got a decent topo of this crag?

Might get a chance to solo a few routes there this weekend and spending £30 on the NW Rockfax to add to my guidebook collection seems a bit of overkill.
In reply to Michael Hood:
Do you need a topo?
The descriptions on UKC or in the Meirionydd guide are pretty good, the two easiest routes, Central crack and Dianes Approval, are obvious and pretty much anywhere left of Central crack can be climbed at around severe or less (apart from the one first move on Brewer's Troupe).

On https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=256391 Central crack is the system just left of the bush, Diane's is the crack on the right and the 'Keyhole' of Brewer's Troupe is obvious on the left. Most of the other route descriptions refer to these.
Post edited at 12:20
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Or that!

(Although it doesn't really have much more info since most of the routes aren't pictured).
OP Michael Hood 15 Aug 2017
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks, I'd seen the descriptions and photos but was a tad concerned that the (severe) lines between and to the sides of the cracks might be a bit indistinct and I'd end up on much harder and more serious ground.

Q: is the hard move on Brewer's at the keyhole and are there any hard moves above that?
In reply to Michael Hood:
Yes, moving up to and past the keyhole is the only awkward move (and even that's not very tough and has bomber protection, hence why the route has been downgraded from the original (Meirionydd) HVS 5b to a more sensible VS4c).

Several of the severes are nearer V Diff and it's often possible to move sideways along the waves between routes if one seems too hard! (There's a newish (2016) traverse detailed on the UKC logbook page at HS4a which I've been meaning to have a go at!)
Post edited at 19:36
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