UKC Forums - Papillons arête / peigne descent?

Papillons arête / peigne descent?

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betathief 15 Aug 2017

Hi,

Simply wondering if the descent for this climb is dry? Don't want to carry up crampons and boots if not needed.

Thanks for any info!

Ant + Jess!

cb294 15 Aug 2017

In reply to betathief:

No idea, but your login name is brilliant!

CB

Pero 15 Aug 2017

In reply to betathief:

> Hi,

> Simply wondering if the descent for this climb is dry? Don't want to carry up crampons and boots if not needed.

> Thanks for any info!

> Ant + Jess!

Almost certainly no need for big boots. You'll probably have to descend a short snow slope, but even in June this year we could have done it in approach shoes.

Note that when you descend the couloir, right at the end (after you are really out of the couloir) you come to a junction. Left leads to an easy down climb to the snow. I've no idea where the right path leads!

Post edited at 15:38

OP betathief 15 Aug 2017

In reply to Pero:

Cheers, getting on it tomorrow, so you have just spared me hauling up my boots for no reason!

Fellover 15 Aug 2017

In reply to betathief:

Descent is completely dry, there's some still left on the middle section of the peigne normal route, doesn't need big boots but would be a pain in rock shoes, not that you'd be wearing them for that section anyway.

Martin Bennett 15 Aug 2017

In reply to Pero:

> Note that when you descend the couloir, right at the end (after you are really out of the couloir) you come to a junction. Left leads to an easy down climb to the snow. I've no idea where the right path leads!

Right path is equally easy but ends abruptly at a bluff that requires an abseil. Go left. A little bit further but quicker.

J Whittaker 15 Aug 2017

In reply to Fellover:

> doesn't need big boots but would be a pain in rock shoes, not that you'd be wearing them for that section anyway.

Don't you mean it would be a Peigne in rock shoes?

Ok...i'll get back in my box now.

Lamb 16 Aug 2017

In reply to betathief:

No need for big boots or crampons. We climbed Papillons before finishing up the Peigne Normal Route and descending via the couloir last week. We were just in approach shoes all day.