UKC

Very good content! Highly recommend watching for some nice motivation.

But has anyone tried these?

vimeo.com/228570926

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

Bloody hell. Wonder what he has done outdoors. He looks pretty streng

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

Interesting vid and the shape of things to come I wonder?

Have any of those problems been repeated and thus had the grades verified? I heard there was something like 10,000 problems on that Moonboard configuration, set by people all over the world. Pretty phenomenal for such a small board. I believe there are ideas around a pan global Moonboard comp sometime too.

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I haven't seen that many climbing videos with pretty hard rock so far, I think I like it. Although it might just be the song, Boom is a classic (at least for my generation).

In reply to stp:
>"I heard there was something like 10,000 problems"

With those Moon boards with led lights, I expect the next thing to be (if it's not been done) offering training plans with sets of boulder problems designed specifically to train you for specific classic sport routes. Not necessarily route replicas but specific enough holds and moves to optimise your training for that particular route. Just now that sort of thing seems to be limited to guys building there own replicas for their nails projects. I can see the time when you download "Raindogs" and, after six months on the board, go flash it (or would that be o/s?), having previously never climbed harder than 7a.

In reply to JLS:

An interesting idea although currently the angle fixed on most Moonboards (usually at 45 degrees), as is the hold configuration, so specificity to particular routes would be pretty limited.

In reply to JLS:

Just now that sort of thing seems to be limited to guys building there own replicas for their nails projects. I can see the time when you download "Raindogs" and, after six months on the board, go flash it (or would that be o/s?), having previously never climbed harder than 7a.

To recreate Malham, the Moonboard would need to be able to convert itself into a mass of greasy teflon. No matter how targetted and dedicated my winter of indoor bouldering is, I am always completely thrown by the return to Malham in Spring.

In reply to Ed Booth:

It's the lad who wants to climb Action Directe but lives a long way away and so built some pretty accurate replicas. Seems like an absolute machine.

In reply to stp:

>" the angle fixed on most Moonboards (usually at 45 degrees), as is the hold configuration, so specificity to particular routes would be pretty limited"

We shouldn't let that get in the way of a good marketing opportunity.
I sure if someone spends 6 months under a Moon board doing anything beyond picking their nose, they are likely to get quite strong. The plan is to sell dreams.

In reply to stp:

I think Moon Boards should be 40° off vertical.

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

That guy is inconceivably strong. Check UK's Dan Turner doing "Perky Pinky" on the original schoolboard at "The School". That is supposed to be one the hardest along with "Pinky Perky" and "Milk It", all F8B and done by James Noble, I believe.

Here's the vid with "Perky Pinky" at 5:35 mins. Not the clearest vid but shows DT and James Noble crushing other probs inc. "Outside the Box", F8A+.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N72t_ePHRpE&list=PL1-iicDfRCWLKY9cdQ9qQ...

In reply to Fishmate:

Link seems dead... Any ideas?

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

This one? Matches the description

youtube.com/watch?v=N72t_ePHRpE&

In reply to Andy Dorsen:


Hi Andy, agreed and unfortunately no ideas beyond cut & paste the address into your browser?

In reply to Andy Reeve:



That's the one...

In reply to Andy Dorsen:

Anyone have any idea where L. Matyas' gym is based? Looks like a really cool place to visit at some point.