UKC

I was considering to get
* BEAL JOKER UNICORE GOLDEN DRY 9.1MM X 60M,
Specifications
Climbingropes sheathproportion: 35
Climbingrope elongationdynamic: 37 | 32 | 29
Climbingrope elongationstatic: 8
Climbingrope falls: 5-6 (single) | 24-26 (half) | >25 (twin)
Climbingrope impactforce: 7.9-8.2 (single) | 5.6-5.8 (half) | 9.1-9.3 (twin)
Climbingrope sheathslippage: 0
Climbingrope treatment: Beal Dry Cover
Climbingrope weightpermeter: 52g
Diameter text mm: 9.1
Weight: 3710g
like the Unicore functions, good could be using as single or double
Down side - no colour mark in the mid rope, when it as double use is only 30 M which too short sometimes

Then after searching around I fancy

* Edelrid Swift Pro Dry CT 8,9 mm Climbing Rope 80 M
Specifications
Climbingropes sheathproportion: 34
Climbingrope elongationdynamic: 33
Climbingrope elongationstatic: 9
Climbingrope falls: 5 | 22 | 22
Climbingrope impactforce: 8,8 | 6,7 | 10,4
Climbingrope sheathslippage: 0
Climbingrope treatment: Edelrid Pro Shield
Climbingrope weightpermeter: 56
Diameter text mm: 8.9
Weight: 4160g
it seems durable than the 'Joker'
great for double and really like the different braiding pattern for each half of the rope.

Questions are: would it be too thin and too long for the multi -pitches?? I have done some multi- pitches but not an old hand

In reply to blue sky bird:
40 m will cover you for lots (but by no means all) pitches in UK trad climbing. But you'll have a much nicer time using a proper set of doubles at 50m x 8 mm diameter and reap the benefits of lower impact forces, better manageability and lower weight bulk and not need to worry about pitch (or worse, abseil) length .

What do you propose doing with an 80 m rope - Euro enduro-sport?

In reply to blue sky bird:


Not sure being thin is much of a problem, wouldn't bother me. 80m isn't ideal if you're just climbing normal pitches, but I used a 70m to link pitches on a bolted multi-pitch is El Chorro, so 10 pitches became 5, which made for more climbing and less faffing. But it very much depends on the route, if it wanders or requires a long abseil you'd be better off with halves.

I've used a single as halves for single pitch trad, never for multi-pitch, so I'm not sure if there's any issue of you swapped leads being tied in to the middle of the rope when on lead.

In reply to blue sky bird:

As somebody said above - the reason for buying a skinny 80m single rope is because you want to do long single-pitch sport routes (eg. I did a few at Chateauvert that were about 40m long, so you need the length to lower back to the ground). For multipitch you really want a pair of 50m or 60m half-ropes (so you can abseil a full rope length if necessary)

In reply to blue sky bird:

80 m is usually used for hard overhanging European sports routes.

Its not something you really see on most Uk crags.

In reply to blue sky bird:

The great thing I've found about 80m ropes is when both ends are pretty knackered you can cut them in half and have two 40m ropes with one really good end. 40m ropes are great for a lot UK sport crags and also ideal for indoor use (just long enough to get down from the longest routes at my local wall).

The bad thing is that they do take up quite a bit of extra bulk and weight in your bag. Only an issue where the walk ins are long though. But of course they're also great if you're venturing abroad.

Personally I wouldn't go for one of the ultra lightweight ropes unless you've got a very specific long project that's right at your limit and the extra weight of a heavier rope might affect the outcome. It's only on really long pitches where the weight saving will be worthwhile. The more rope there is out the more weight you save. The main disadvantages are they'll wear out much faster and they're more expensive to begin with.

I've got two 80m ropes: an Edlerid 10mm for general use and a Mammut 9.5mm Infinity? for hard, long redpoints. Not using either much at the moment as I've mainly been to small crags so I currently use half of an 80m (so 40m), 9.8mm from Decathlon which was very good value at the time and is considerably lighter in my pack.

If you do go for one of the ultra light ropes you might want to invest in some roller biners too as they should help slow down the wear rate on the rope.

In reply to blue sky bird:

THANK YOU for you guys replied and shared.

I got a 7 years old 10mm x 60M single rope which weights a ton. don't like to carry it walks for the trad climb!
my experience told me that 50 M would be too short sometimes on multi-pitches, I don't enjoy that panicking when I got no more rope and the leader couldn't hear me shout!
there are many benefits on climbing in two rope.
therefore
I wanted to invest a new rope!

After read all shares, maybe not 80 M even for double use!!
I would look for the 60M

In reply to blue sky bird:

Seriously for trad just buy a nice pair of 50m 8.5 halves. There's very few places you'll need more in the UK and it is way better - the best bit? Your partner can carry one of them!

In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks and will shop around