/ Sport Climbing in Spain/Frnace

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swifty - on 17 Aug 2017
Hey Guys,
So me and my climbing mate are looking to go on a weeks climbing trip next year abroad in either Spain or France. Early days, so we are still looking for a location. Anyone know any areas where there is a good amount of sport climbs (with maintained bolts), which have a wide climbing level (5a-7b). We are mainly indoor climbers so we probably want to start out easy. We are currently climbing at a 6c indoor level.
Not sure about transport yet but it would be ideal if the climbs were near by each other, with nearby accommodation, etc.
Not sure if this is asking for to much in one location, but worth a shot.

Let me know!

Seb
Jonny on 17 Aug 2017
In reply to swifty:

That's not too much to ask at all.

There's almost too much to choose from in either of those countries, but sticking to Spain, the areas in Tarragona have everything you want: thousands of routes that are very well maintained - plenty around the grades you mention although tending towards the harder end, great quality rock, stunning scenery, plenty of accommodation in lovely little villages. The main centres are Siurana, Oliana and Margalef.
Bulls Crack - on 17 Aug 2017
In reply to swifty:

Asking for too much in one location is the least of your problems; choosing where to go out of the huge number of places that do have that range is your (pleasant) issue!

Just about anywhere really. Provence, Ariege, Lleida area, Costa Blanca, El Chorro, Costa Dourada, Mallorca,
Owen W-G - on 17 Aug 2017
Recommend Costa Durada (S of Barca), Majorca and Sardinia all for Autumn and Spring.
South Spain good through winter.

elliptic on 17 Aug 2017
In reply to swifty:

For a first time trip with easy logistics it's hard to beat El Chorro in the spring or autumn. Fly to Malaga and get the train up, stay at the Olive Branch and you're sorted for the week.

1poundSOCKS - on 17 Aug 2017
In reply to elliptic:

> get the train up

Although hire cars in Malaga can be really cheap so might be worth a look. I got one for 2 weeks for just over £30.
Angrypenguin - on 17 Aug 2017
In reply to elliptic:

I would second the Olive Branch in El Chorro, Mel and Garry are lovely and the climbing is great. A whole range of well bolted, mostly single pitch climbs from 3+ to 9a.
swifty - on 19 Aug 2017
In reply to elliptic:

I think El Chorro is the one! thanks guys
stp - on 19 Aug 2017
In reply to elliptic:

> For a first time trip with easy logistics it's hard to beat El Chorro in the spring or autumn.

Personally I don't rate El Chorro that much. A lot of the stuff is in the sun much of the time so can be pretty hot. There are shady crags but the climbing then becomes much more limited. I was there in the winter once and we still found ourselves retreating to the shady crags - which were a bit on the cold side, but preferable to the heat!
stp - on 19 Aug 2017
In reply to swifty:

It sounds like a very wide grade range, particularly if you both climb at about the same level. If you only climb 6c then 7b's won't be any use to you. And 5a's will probably be too easy to be interesting. I think you could probably comfortably start around 6a and I wouldn't aim to surpass your indoor grade in just one week of climbing. If you're not that familiar with rock (compared to plastic) you'll be best off getting as much mileage as possible - doing lots of routes around 6b with just the odd harder thing if you feel you need more of a challenge.

There are lots of places that fit the bill but another factor to narrow it down is when you intend going. Some places tend to get hot early. Other places are better later in the season.

In terms of transport if you're going to France you could potentially drive all the way. Anywhere else it's probably best to fly / hire a car. If you don't drive then that will narrow the selection down further still.

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