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After nearly 10 years away from climbing, I've set myself the goal of climbing an 8a before I'm 40, has anybody got any useful tips or experiences to share?
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
look after your joints as you progress through all the training and grades. especially your elbows.
learn to try really hard again, but not before your fingers get used to the strain
invest the appropriate amount of time to your goal, dont half arse it and then wonder why your failed
get someone external to comment on your weaknesses (not necessarily a coach, but they obviously will do a good job)
look after your joints as you progress through all the training and grades. especially your elbows.
learn to try really hard again, but not before your fingers get used to the strain
invest the appropriate amount of time to your goal, dont half arse it and then wonder why your failed
get someone external to comment on your weaknesses (not necessarily a coach, but they obviously will do a good job)
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
as someone who is waaay closer to 6b than 8a, not sure how useful my advice is.
I'd say it's all about specificity. You will probably never become a regular 8a climber. Like onsighting. But pick one specific 8a route, one route that suits your style of climbing and your strengths.. (ideally relatively close to your house!) and then work towards climbing than one route specifically. If it has lots of a certain hold - then try and replicate the moves on a board as close as possible. Also dont set just the goal of 8a by 40. Set additional short term and more achievable goals to hit along the way so you have a sense of progress.
Regardless of route, get light and get flexible
...how long till your 40?
as someone who is waaay closer to 6b than 8a, not sure how useful my advice is.
I'd say it's all about specificity. You will probably never become a regular 8a climber. Like onsighting. But pick one specific 8a route, one route that suits your style of climbing and your strengths.. (ideally relatively close to your house!) and then work towards climbing than one route specifically. If it has lots of a certain hold - then try and replicate the moves on a board as close as possible. Also dont set just the goal of 8a by 40. Set additional short term and more achievable goals to hit along the way so you have a sense of progress.
Regardless of route, get light and get flexible
...how long till your 40?
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Don't bother, it's really hard work.
Or more seriously...
I set myself the goal of climbing 8a this year, so I can relate. Given the time available and the number of grades you'll need to progress, to have any chance you'll need to put in a lot of time and have a bit of luck. Build a base and get good at redpointing, it's a very different skillset to just climbing.
If and when you feel ready, pick a route that suits, is actually fun to climb, is easy to get on, and stays in condition. Maybe not the obvious popular classic either, you might end up in a queue when you're on redpoint, and that can be a problem.
And give yourself enough time. Climbing 8a in a few sessions and sieging one over the whole season are two different challenges. I try to avoid a siege so I waited until it felt easy enough. We will see.
And good luck, setting and achieving goals, especially hard ones, is really rewarding.
> After nearly 10 years away from climbing, I've set myself the goal of climbing an 8a before I'm 40, has anybody got any useful tips or experiences to share?
Don't bother, it's really hard work.
Or more seriously...
I set myself the goal of climbing 8a this year, so I can relate. Given the time available and the number of grades you'll need to progress, to have any chance you'll need to put in a lot of time and have a bit of luck. Build a base and get good at redpointing, it's a very different skillset to just climbing.
If and when you feel ready, pick a route that suits, is actually fun to climb, is easy to get on, and stays in condition. Maybe not the obvious popular classic either, you might end up in a queue when you're on redpoint, and that can be a problem.
And give yourself enough time. Climbing 8a in a few sessions and sieging one over the whole season are two different challenges. I try to avoid a siege so I waited until it felt easy enough. We will see.
And good luck, setting and achieving goals, especially hard ones, is really rewarding.
Post edited at 14:39
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In reply to La benya:
My fingers still seem to be really strong, my wife complains about me ripping the dish cloths because I wring them out so tightly. I'm going to do some fingerboard hang tests on the beastmaker at the local wall to see whether or not I'm kidding myself. I can pull onto almost any problem at the local bouldering wall, I just can't move from that position!
My fingers still seem to be really strong, my wife complains about me ripping the dish cloths because I wring them out so tightly. I'm going to do some fingerboard hang tests on the beastmaker at the local wall to see whether or not I'm kidding myself. I can pull onto almost any problem at the local bouldering wall, I just can't move from that position!
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In reply to Kemics: Thanks, my strengths are good technique, footwork and strong fingers. I know that I need to work on weaknesses one of which is power, I really struggle once the angle goes past 20 degrees overhanging I drop about 5 V-grades.
I'll be 40 in February 2019
I'll be 40 in February 2019
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
That's half the battle then! Although strong doesn't necessarily mean ready to crank hard without injury. When i came back from a lay off a while ago, i could pretty much do what i did before, but only once before i blew out. and then my fingers were sore for days. it really is worth tapering into the hard stuff over a couple of months... allow things to settle.
That's half the battle then! Although strong doesn't necessarily mean ready to crank hard without injury. When i came back from a lay off a while ago, i could pretty much do what i did before, but only once before i blew out. and then my fingers were sore for days. it really is worth tapering into the hard stuff over a couple of months... allow things to settle.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Just noticed the indoors bit. You want to climb 8a indoors? Outdoor grading can be inconsistent obviously, but indoors it's so all over the place as to be meaningless. Obviously climbing a grade is a bit meaningless anyway, it's just personal, so maybe I should shut up.
Just noticed the indoors bit. You want to climb 8a indoors? Outdoor grading can be inconsistent obviously, but indoors it's so all over the place as to be meaningless. Obviously climbing a grade is a bit meaningless anyway, it's just personal, so maybe I should shut up.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
One thing in your favour, I heard there are currently a couple of soft 8a's on the Aberdeen-shire coast. Get on them before they get upgraded.
It's a big ask to do it in a couple of years. So maybe cut your self some slack and say, before 45 rather than 40 - that's certainly possible.
Mark McGowan did 6a to 8a in six months but he had the advantage of previously having climbing the grade and generally being pretty bad-ass-climber back in the day.
I sort of had a go in the last couple of years but stalled at 7c. Now at 50, I'll be glad if I can maintain my one 7c a year record and be delighted if 7c+ ever materialises.
Top tip: Find a great climbing partner and an understanding mrs.
EDIT: I missed the indoors bit too! Indoors is harder. The routes come and go relatively quickly and the grades can be way out.
One thing in your favour, I heard there are currently a couple of soft 8a's on the Aberdeen-shire coast. Get on them before they get upgraded.
It's a big ask to do it in a couple of years. So maybe cut your self some slack and say, before 45 rather than 40 - that's certainly possible.
Mark McGowan did 6a to 8a in six months but he had the advantage of previously having climbing the grade and generally being pretty bad-ass-climber back in the day.
I sort of had a go in the last couple of years but stalled at 7c. Now at 50, I'll be glad if I can maintain my one 7c a year record and be delighted if 7c+ ever materialises.
Top tip: Find a great climbing partner and an understanding mrs.
EDIT: I missed the indoors bit too! Indoors is harder. The routes come and go relatively quickly and the grades can be way out.
Post edited at 15:09
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
I think if you ask most 8a climbers they'll say it's about dishcloth ripping ability.
Good luck,
I have to say the steps between grades as I go up seem to get bigger and bigger. The thought of getting from my 7a ish to 7b seems highly unlikely before I'm 150.
I think if you ask most 8a climbers they'll say it's about dishcloth ripping ability.
Good luck,
I have to say the steps between grades as I go up seem to get bigger and bigger. The thought of getting from my 7a ish to 7b seems highly unlikely before I'm 150.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Don't forget to rest, training relentlessly for 18 months isn't sustainable, at least for me.
You probably want to continue climbing after your 40 too, so try hard, go for it but don't completely blow yourself out.
It might be worth asking your local wall to keep a route up for you.
Like previously mentioned, if you can recreate parts of a route at home or elsewhere then you wouldn't need a partner or role to play on them.
Please keep everyone updated, I look forward to hearing how it goes. Try hard and have fun.
Don't forget to rest, training relentlessly for 18 months isn't sustainable, at least for me.
You probably want to continue climbing after your 40 too, so try hard, go for it but don't completely blow yourself out.
It might be worth asking your local wall to keep a route up for you.
Like previously mentioned, if you can recreate parts of a route at home or elsewhere then you wouldn't need a partner or role to play on them.
Please keep everyone updated, I look forward to hearing how it goes. Try hard and have fun.
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In reply to Emilio Bachini:
Maybe the one that everybody knows is really only 7c?
> It might be worth asking your local wall to keep a route up for you.
Maybe the one that everybody knows is really only 7c?
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
probably the easiest way is just to pay your local wall to set a really easy 8a , say one about 6b+ so it feels like you have achieved something from your current F6b!
probably the easiest way is just to pay your local wall to set a really easy 8a , say one about 6b+ so it feels like you have achieved something from your current F6b!
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Like others have said, you're going to struggle to get an 8a you'll have time to project set at either Transition in Aberdeen or AVW in Dundee. Picking an outdoor route will give you as much time as you need for a protracted siege. Given your stated strengths, you'd probably be better looking at the likes of Messiah at Red Wall Quarry near Peterhead (easier access once the AWPR is finished), Stray Dogs at Portlethen or (depending on whether it is currently bolted) Ching at Dunkeld. You'd then be able to target the easier routes at the same crags as a progression towards your final goal.
How easily will you be able to get to Transition or AVW to train? If you've not climbed much/at all in 10 years then you'll need to get in some mileage to kick start things again, and then start getting more specific to build up strength and fitness.
Like others have said, you're going to struggle to get an 8a you'll have time to project set at either Transition in Aberdeen or AVW in Dundee. Picking an outdoor route will give you as much time as you need for a protracted siege. Given your stated strengths, you'd probably be better looking at the likes of Messiah at Red Wall Quarry near Peterhead (easier access once the AWPR is finished), Stray Dogs at Portlethen or (depending on whether it is currently bolted) Ching at Dunkeld. You'd then be able to target the easier routes at the same crags as a progression towards your final goal.
How easily will you be able to get to Transition or AVW to train? If you've not climbed much/at all in 10 years then you'll need to get in some mileage to kick start things again, and then start getting more specific to build up strength and fitness.
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In reply to JIMBO:
I echo what Jimbo says, if your 7B/7C strong then it is just picking the right route and having the fitness. It is infinitely easier to get endurance than it is strength.
Also pick your project, and profile what strength you will need to get it climbed, then train that.
I echo what Jimbo says, if your 7B/7C strong then it is just picking the right route and having the fitness. It is infinitely easier to get endurance than it is strength.
Also pick your project, and profile what strength you will need to get it climbed, then train that.
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Lots of good advice already.
My 2p. All of these will help, which are the most helpful is anyone's guess:
Build yourself a board set to 30 degs or more.
Core exercises.
Shoulder exercises.
Antagonist exercises.
Resistance exercises.
Lose weight.
Rest.
No closed crimping when training.
High boredom threshold.
Patient other half.
Patient partners.
Pick a project that suits your climbing style.
No hierarchy meant or implied.
Jase
Lots of good advice already.
My 2p. All of these will help, which are the most helpful is anyone's guess:
Build yourself a board set to 30 degs or more.
Core exercises.
Shoulder exercises.
Antagonist exercises.
Resistance exercises.
Lose weight.
Rest.
No closed crimping when training.
High boredom threshold.
Patient other half.
Patient partners.
Pick a project that suits your climbing style.
No hierarchy meant or implied.
Jase
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In reply to JIMBO and alx:
I also agree with the bouldering strength and power advice.
For the longest time; fu****g decades, my mental attitude was all about stamina and endurance as I preferred onsight climbing and routes. All winter long, reps and reps and reps on lead walls. I was fit but never that strong.
This year I have changed my approach completely and now focus on finger boarding (repeaters and max hangs, one arm training etc.), campussing, max bouldering, power endurance and core training.
As a result my fingers are really sore! Only joking.
Outside on rock, I have noticed my strength and power have both improved quite a bit already, even at my advanced age.
Pick a route that suits your preferred style, design a training plan and just work towards it. Don't get downhearted on those high gravity days and just stick with the plan, tweaking it as necessary along the way. Enjoy the redpoint attempt days as just part of the process.
Edit: And as JCurrie says, also Antagonist exercises are very important to help avoid injury.
Good luck.
TJB.
I also agree with the bouldering strength and power advice.
For the longest time; fu****g decades, my mental attitude was all about stamina and endurance as I preferred onsight climbing and routes. All winter long, reps and reps and reps on lead walls. I was fit but never that strong.
This year I have changed my approach completely and now focus on finger boarding (repeaters and max hangs, one arm training etc.), campussing, max bouldering, power endurance and core training.
As a result my fingers are really sore! Only joking.
Outside on rock, I have noticed my strength and power have both improved quite a bit already, even at my advanced age.
Pick a route that suits your preferred style, design a training plan and just work towards it. Don't get downhearted on those high gravity days and just stick with the plan, tweaking it as necessary along the way. Enjoy the redpoint attempt days as just part of the process.
Edit: And as JCurrie says, also Antagonist exercises are very important to help avoid injury.
Good luck.
TJB.
Post edited at 09:07
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Get in touch with a good coach, even if it's just one session to look at your strengths / weakness's, sometimes it helps to get an outside perspective.
Then train, a lot.
Get in touch with a good coach, even if it's just one session to look at your strengths / weakness's, sometimes it helps to get an outside perspective.
Then train, a lot.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
One thing I forgot to add earlier was that it should be relatively easy to get to 8a by your 40th.
I had a coaching session many moons ago with Dave Macleod. He said (paraphrasing here slightly) climbing hard is pretty easy, you've just got to want it badly enough, and that's where most folk let themselves down. Everything else will fall into place if you want it and do what is required to get there.
I was probably about 40 at the time, and I gave myself loads of time to hit 8a, namely by the time I was 50. Needless to say, that came and went and I didn't tick one! But that was because I didn't apply myself, and I knew it. My partner, who was climbing the same grades as I was back then, did apply himself and yes, he got his 8a. In fact he went straight from 7b+ to 8a, skipping the in-between grades! He found a route that he liked, was a strong line, suited his strengths and was relatively local. We pretty much ditched other venues whenever it was possible to climb at the 'target route' location. I tried the route too but it really didn't suit me and (perhaps because of that) I didn't really like it as much as my partner.
Looking back at my logbook graphs, I was probably climbing the most when I did a couple of 7c's but both of them were after fairly protracted sessions on adjacent, easier routes (eg. Hamish Ted's at Dunkeld) so I knew the terrain, had the stamina and didn't need that much strength to get up them. I took days off work to go up mid-week and get on the routes repeated times, ingrain the moves, refine beta and frankly, beat them into submission. In other words, I did what was required, including training for them which involved building a woodie at home and setting enduro-circuits to mimic the routes.
I was disappointed I didn't get to 8a by the age of 50, but I'm now 54 and have more time available to train, climb and get away on trips and I'm fairly confident I'll get my first one once I've been applying myself over a longer period. That might be next year, the year after or by the time I'm 60. Your first step is to figure out how badly you want to climb 8a and then formulate a training plan that will get you through each of the 'stepping stone' grades to get you to your desired destination.
Best of luck, it'll be hard work but fun if you stick with it!
One thing I forgot to add earlier was that it should be relatively easy to get to 8a by your 40th.
I had a coaching session many moons ago with Dave Macleod. He said (paraphrasing here slightly) climbing hard is pretty easy, you've just got to want it badly enough, and that's where most folk let themselves down. Everything else will fall into place if you want it and do what is required to get there.
I was probably about 40 at the time, and I gave myself loads of time to hit 8a, namely by the time I was 50. Needless to say, that came and went and I didn't tick one! But that was because I didn't apply myself, and I knew it. My partner, who was climbing the same grades as I was back then, did apply himself and yes, he got his 8a. In fact he went straight from 7b+ to 8a, skipping the in-between grades! He found a route that he liked, was a strong line, suited his strengths and was relatively local. We pretty much ditched other venues whenever it was possible to climb at the 'target route' location. I tried the route too but it really didn't suit me and (perhaps because of that) I didn't really like it as much as my partner.
Looking back at my logbook graphs, I was probably climbing the most when I did a couple of 7c's but both of them were after fairly protracted sessions on adjacent, easier routes (eg. Hamish Ted's at Dunkeld) so I knew the terrain, had the stamina and didn't need that much strength to get up them. I took days off work to go up mid-week and get on the routes repeated times, ingrain the moves, refine beta and frankly, beat them into submission. In other words, I did what was required, including training for them which involved building a woodie at home and setting enduro-circuits to mimic the routes.
I was disappointed I didn't get to 8a by the age of 50, but I'm now 54 and have more time available to train, climb and get away on trips and I'm fairly confident I'll get my first one once I've been applying myself over a longer period. That might be next year, the year after or by the time I'm 60. Your first step is to figure out how badly you want to climb 8a and then formulate a training plan that will get you through each of the 'stepping stone' grades to get you to your desired destination.
Best of luck, it'll be hard work but fun if you stick with it!
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
1. Take your time and enjoy the process.
2. It's not so much what you know as who you know that's important. Once you get to a certain age it can be really hard finding regular partners as everyone tends to have jobs, families or both and getting out to the same crag, on the right days, several times in short succession can be the hardest thing.
I had 8a as a vague goal but I've given up now and will probably be happy if I can do a 7c in a day instead (though finding partners even for that has been pretty hard).
1. Take your time and enjoy the process.
2. It's not so much what you know as who you know that's important. Once you get to a certain age it can be really hard finding regular partners as everyone tends to have jobs, families or both and getting out to the same crag, on the right days, several times in short succession can be the hardest thing.
I had 8a as a vague goal but I've given up now and will probably be happy if I can do a 7c in a day instead (though finding partners even for that has been pretty hard).
Post edited at 14:34
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In reply to Climber_Bill:
Don't get downhearted on those high gravity days and just stick with the plan, tweaking it as necessary along the way.
Good advice, don't get sucked into the I have to hit a PB every session attitude, separate training from performing.
Don't get downhearted on those high gravity days and just stick with the plan, tweaking it as necessary along the way.
Good advice, don't get sucked into the I have to hit a PB every session attitude, separate training from performing.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
I know crap all about climbing that hard, but I still love this quote from Steve Haston:
“Train hard, rest, don’t eat. It’s a power to weight thing. In fact it’s a weight to powerful fingers thing. It’s not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.”
Sadly the article on the climber website doesn't seem to be there anymore. But there's plenty of stuff in a similar vein here:
http://steviehaston.blogspot.co.uk/p/training.html
I know crap all about climbing that hard, but I still love this quote from Steve Haston:
“Train hard, rest, don’t eat. It’s a power to weight thing. In fact it’s a weight to powerful fingers thing. It’s not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.”
Sadly the article on the climber website doesn't seem to be there anymore. But there's plenty of stuff in a similar vein here:
http://steviehaston.blogspot.co.uk/p/training.html
In reply to George Fisher:
I've noticed this. 3, 4, 5 all easy then 6a is tricky and 6b is very hard. Contemplating 9b seems impossible.
> I have to say the steps between grades as I go up seem to get bigger and bigger.
I've noticed this. 3, 4, 5 all easy then 6a is tricky and 6b is very hard. Contemplating 9b seems impossible.
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In reply to stp:
I still (now aged 53) very much aspire to climb an 8a (having done one local 7c+ seventeen years ago and never being bothered about redpointing anything since). Injuries permitting, I know it is just a matter of applying myself and sacrificing other less boring climbing trips for a while for the drudgery of working a suitable route (I confess it would be almost purely about the kudos of the big number tick for me!). But yes, almost without doubt, having made the decision to do it, the crux would be to find a willing partner for the drudgery.
> It's not so much what you know as who you know that's important. Once you get to a certain age it can be really hard finding regular partners as everyone tends to have jobs, families or both and getting out to the same crag, on the right days, several times in short succession can be the hardest thing.
I still (now aged 53) very much aspire to climb an 8a (having done one local 7c+ seventeen years ago and never being bothered about redpointing anything since). Injuries permitting, I know it is just a matter of applying myself and sacrificing other less boring climbing trips for a while for the drudgery of working a suitable route (I confess it would be almost purely about the kudos of the big number tick for me!). But yes, almost without doubt, having made the decision to do it, the crux would be to find a willing partner for the drudgery.
Post edited at 16:52
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Just to add some extra weight to things suggested already I think the things that got me to (one) 8a are:
1. One main, keen, reliable climbing & training partner and others in reserve.
2. Redpoint tactics. Get used to the siege.
3. Local outdoor project -- i know LOADS of climbers who can climb multiple 8as outdoor but can't touch indoor 8a.
4. Route that suits your strengths. I've been on 4 8as, the one I did, two that felt possible (but I didn't get them done) and one that felt impossible.
Good luck!
Just to add some extra weight to things suggested already I think the things that got me to (one) 8a are:
1. One main, keen, reliable climbing & training partner and others in reserve.
2. Redpoint tactics. Get used to the siege.
3. Local outdoor project -- i know LOADS of climbers who can climb multiple 8as outdoor but can't touch indoor 8a.
4. Route that suits your strengths. I've been on 4 8as, the one I did, two that felt possible (but I didn't get them done) and one that felt impossible.
Good luck!
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Hi Jon,
I too had many years away from climbing, only returning to it in my late 30's (I'm 41 now). What I particularly noticed was how much more prone I am to injury, and how they take much longer to heal than when I was in my early 30's. I think this is probably because I'm just stiffer/less bouncy somehow. So my suggestion would be warm up properly (especially in the winter, brrr).
For all this disadvantage, I seem to have made up for a loss of strength with much improved technique and a greater patience for working a problem - I'll bet your the same
Good luck!
Hi Jon,
I too had many years away from climbing, only returning to it in my late 30's (I'm 41 now). What I particularly noticed was how much more prone I am to injury, and how they take much longer to heal than when I was in my early 30's. I think this is probably because I'm just stiffer/less bouncy somehow. So my suggestion would be warm up properly (especially in the winter, brrr).
For all this disadvantage, I seem to have made up for a loss of strength with much improved technique and a greater patience for working a problem - I'll bet your the same
Good luck!
In reply to George Fisher:
The principle is that as you get closer to your limit it only takes a small increase in difficulty to feel a lot harder, and just a little more to become impossible. The only solution is to take proper steps in improvement, getting significantly stronger for instance (which takes time and dedication over a protracted period).
> I have to say the steps between grades as I go up seem to get bigger and bigger.
The principle is that as you get closer to your limit it only takes a small increase in difficulty to feel a lot harder, and just a little more to become impossible. The only solution is to take proper steps in improvement, getting significantly stronger for instance (which takes time and dedication over a protracted period).
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
First of all - best of luck, a very achievable goal in the new few years.
Second of all - at what level can you boulder ?
I'd focus on this initially, as this is some of the hardest parts. For 8a, I imagine, you'd want to be bouldering a minimum of V6. Even still I am sure there must be people out there that don't boulder as hard and can still get up stamina fest 8as.
I've only really been on indoor 8as and 1 outdoor 8a. Having tried very hard on indoor 8as, I've not had the time to get one before the wall gets reset but have at least come quite close. Indoor seems far more physical and sustained. It's normally sustained V4 moves with a V5 or harder crux.
Outdoors tends to be more bouldery...the one which I tried was like V4 into easy climbing into a long V6 and then a 6a+/6b steep route to finish.
First of all - best of luck, a very achievable goal in the new few years.
Second of all - at what level can you boulder ?
I'd focus on this initially, as this is some of the hardest parts. For 8a, I imagine, you'd want to be bouldering a minimum of V6. Even still I am sure there must be people out there that don't boulder as hard and can still get up stamina fest 8as.
I've only really been on indoor 8as and 1 outdoor 8a. Having tried very hard on indoor 8as, I've not had the time to get one before the wall gets reset but have at least come quite close. Indoor seems far more physical and sustained. It's normally sustained V4 moves with a V5 or harder crux.
Outdoors tends to be more bouldery...the one which I tried was like V4 into easy climbing into a long V6 and then a 6a+/6b steep route to finish.
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In reply to zmv:
I think this is good advice: build bouldering and finger strength first. Just a bit of endurance stuff to break it up and to build base to help avoid injuries. Reason being strength gains are slow to get but hang around for ages once acheived. Plus if you can't boulder out the crux you're screwed (that's whats currently happening to me on Blue Mtns 25s!). Once you can do all the moves on a route you "just" train endurance to link em. Many of the most famous climbers took this (strength and power focus) approach, which is no coincidence - e.g. Megos, Sharma, Moffatt.
8a was my goal too, but in the last year or so I've got on a few 7b+/7c routes - just to get an idea - and as a result have lowered my LT goal to 7c: still v v hard compared to low 6's!!
Definitely getting access to a number of routes of the right grade (so you can choose the most likely), in your favoured style, that are in condiition, and with partners to belay you, is a hard thing. In many places the crags that have good 8s will have nothing below 7b, and if your peer group climb 6a's and 6b's they ain't gonna want to go there. All doable given motivation and energy and time of course
Enjoy the journey, try and climb a lot of fantastic routes on the way, that makes it all worthwhile! On which note I do recommend building an 8421 pyramid as a stepping stone up the lower grades, thiugh obv you may want to skip 7c+ and maybe 7c at the end, in a dash for the summit
I think this is good advice: build bouldering and finger strength first. Just a bit of endurance stuff to break it up and to build base to help avoid injuries. Reason being strength gains are slow to get but hang around for ages once acheived. Plus if you can't boulder out the crux you're screwed (that's whats currently happening to me on Blue Mtns 25s!). Once you can do all the moves on a route you "just" train endurance to link em. Many of the most famous climbers took this (strength and power focus) approach, which is no coincidence - e.g. Megos, Sharma, Moffatt.
8a was my goal too, but in the last year or so I've got on a few 7b+/7c routes - just to get an idea - and as a result have lowered my LT goal to 7c: still v v hard compared to low 6's!!
Definitely getting access to a number of routes of the right grade (so you can choose the most likely), in your favoured style, that are in condiition, and with partners to belay you, is a hard thing. In many places the crags that have good 8s will have nothing below 7b, and if your peer group climb 6a's and 6b's they ain't gonna want to go there. All doable given motivation and energy and time of course
Enjoy the journey, try and climb a lot of fantastic routes on the way, that makes it all worthwhile! On which note I do recommend building an 8421 pyramid as a stepping stone up the lower grades, thiugh obv you may want to skip 7c+ and maybe 7c at the end, in a dash for the summit
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In reply to Robert Durran:
Ditto. I'm 56, currently working my way through the low 7's with a goal of 8a at 60. The physical progression stuff is manageable I think - although I'm heavily plateau'd around 6B/C at bouldering and definitely need to move that up a notch or two - but finding similarly motivated and available partners really seems to be the crux.
Ditto. I'm 56, currently working my way through the low 7's with a goal of 8a at 60. The physical progression stuff is manageable I think - although I'm heavily plateau'd around 6B/C at bouldering and definitely need to move that up a notch or two - but finding similarly motivated and available partners really seems to be the crux.
In reply to Stuart S:
Thanks for the route suggestions, agree about targeting easier routes at the same crag to learn the style and to build up a pyramid. I've never climbed on quarried granite or whatever rock Portlethen is?
I started putting in mileage on the autobelay lines at Transition extreme a few months ago and once I'd plateaued, switched over to bouldering at either Transition or AVW at least once a week. For additional training when I can't get to/afford the wall, I've put up set of rings in the garage, next DIY project is a fingerboard, and if I can ever clear enough space in the garage a small woody.
Thanks for the route suggestions, agree about targeting easier routes at the same crag to learn the style and to build up a pyramid. I've never climbed on quarried granite or whatever rock Portlethen is?
I started putting in mileage on the autobelay lines at Transition extreme a few months ago and once I'd plateaued, switched over to bouldering at either Transition or AVW at least once a week. For additional training when I can't get to/afford the wall, I've put up set of rings in the garage, next DIY project is a fingerboard, and if I can ever clear enough space in the garage a small woody.
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
There's good bouldering at Portlethen to learn the rock whilst getting strong fingers (the most extensive bouldering in the northeast).
Remember that we're only 20 mins drive away from yours, and we have a large home woody including an LED moon board like they have at AVW - you'd be very welcome any time for a training session! Amanda can give you all the beta you like on the hard routes and I can tell you about the easy ones!!! I also think we might have a fingerboard going spare if you need one?
There's good bouldering at Portlethen to learn the rock whilst getting strong fingers (the most extensive bouldering in the northeast).
Remember that we're only 20 mins drive away from yours, and we have a large home woody including an LED moon board like they have at AVW - you'd be very welcome any time for a training session! Amanda can give you all the beta you like on the hard routes and I can tell you about the easy ones!!! I also think we might have a fingerboard going spare if you need one?
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In reply to Mike Stretford:
I reckon I could wash my hand from knee bar restpoint if I got someone to lower me bottle of handwash and a towel.
Maybe it could be a new style of ascent, a sinkpoint?
I reckon I could wash my hand from knee bar restpoint if I got someone to lower me bottle of handwash and a towel.
Maybe it could be a new style of ascent, a sinkpoint?
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Lowered down......... have you got no feckin ethics!!!!!!!
A pre-placed wash bottle and hand-dryer would be ok.
> I reckon I could wash my hand from knee bar restpoint if I got someone to lower me bottle of handwash and a towel.
Lowered down......... have you got no feckin ethics!!!!!!!
A pre-placed wash bottle and hand-dryer would be ok.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Must say I'm also now looking forward to the chalkless indoor 8a ascent.
Must say I'm also now looking forward to the chalkless indoor 8a ascent.
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In reply to Jon Greengrass:
If you pick a stamina 8a rather than a bouldery 8a you are less likely to get injured.
If you pick a stamina 8a rather than a bouldery 8a you are less likely to get injured.
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