UKC

Normal or Stop?

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MDS87 18 Aug 2017
Hi all,

Very new to climbing, only 3 bouldering sessions in, but have fitted them into the same week so far.
After the second session (on the way home) the joints in my elbows hurt a fair amount, but only for an hour or so then were perfectly fine.
The third session brought back the pain only about ten minutes in, limiting my time in the gym. But again, an hour or so later, all fine, not a sniff of pain.

I know there's a lot of info on climbers elbowout there but that seems to be a longer lasting pain than what I'm finding, is this just case of not warming up enough/bad technique/weak tendons that need strengthening? Or should I leave it a while before going back (hopefully not the case!!)

Cheers!
 beefy_legacy 18 Aug 2017
In reply to MDS87:

Indoor bouldering is pretty intense, more than you realise I think, as you tend to go from problem to problem without much rest. Three times a week is a lot if you're just starting, maybe try easing off a bit if you like it and you want to climb for a long time? It definitely sounds like you've overdone it a bit, if you didn't have elbow problems before. Take care ...
 Blue Straggler 18 Aug 2017
In reply to MDS87:

Yep just a case of too much too soon. Restrict it to once a week for a couple of months.
 gethin_allen 18 Aug 2017
In reply to MDS87:
"... I know there's a lot of info on climbers elbow out there but that seems to be a longer lasting pain than what I'm finding, is this just case of not warming up enough/bad technique/weak tendons that need strengthening? Or should I leave it a while before going back (hopefully not the case!!)"

Probably all of the above, just ease right off for a bit and do loads of really easy stuff, even those of us who have been doing it for ages have problems if we suddenly increase climbing intensity and frequency. I'm currently trying to shake off climbers elbow but have been struggling to stay away because you need to take advantage of the good climbing weather in the UK. Fortunately/unfortunately I've another injury that I can't climb at all with so the elbow will get some time to heal.
In reply to MDS87:

Whatever age you are, everyone benefits from properly warming up before a bouldering session. There's loads of info on the web, and it's a great way to avoid the onset of long term problems which are difficult to totally cure. A good stretching regime integrated into this is also a good idea.
I was bouldering with a mate in his 50s yesterday who warms up with skipping, then theraband stretching, and has avoided injury while still pushing his grades.

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