/ The "what did you climb this weekend?" thread (2)

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TobyA on 20 Aug 2017

The old thread got archived so here's a new one. What did you climb this weekend?
I went to Bamford Edge today on my own as I couldn't persuade my children to come with me! I started soloing easy routes on Gun Buttress and down that end of the crag and soon had ticked a fair few. It was my birthday today, so it suddenly struck me, could I do 44 routes to celebrate my 44th birthday? At that point I started getting more methodical and doing every route I could do right to left along the crag. My parents were visiting and bringing cake round later in the afternoon, so I had a bit of a time limit and I only had a small bottle of water and a cereal bar for refreshment, but I made it - I actually think I did 45 routes (or variations noted in the guide), just to make sure I hadn't miss-counted! For anyone else of similar limited ability but levels of ambition, Gun, Porthole and Christmas Themed Buttresses at Bamford are the perfect place for such silliness. Most of the lines are relatively low without awful landings and there are loads of easy routes next to each other.
Post edited at 22:38
icehockeyhair - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Just back from a wee evening trip to Limekilns in Fife. Took my first trad lead fall when my foot unexpectedly slipped off a hold, very exciting. Luckily I'd just placed a lovely bomber number 9 hex!
spenser - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Spent the weekend in Galloway introducing some of the Oread's new members to sea cliffs on Meikle Ross, Fox Craig was a bit windy in the morning so we ended up heading round to Little Zawn after doing 3 routes, Mellow Yellow (VS 4c) and Bloody Crack (E1 5b) were stand out routes, I think I've done them both at least 3 times now and loved every inch of both of them!
Spent today at Clifton Crag, only got two routes in but did a very pleasant steep HS jamming crack. Definitely keen to get back up there and a repeat entry in the meet calendar has been requested!
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Crescent Climb (M)

Quite an intense experience, some suspect holds and a fair amount of wet rock
bouldery bits - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Still recovering from double hernia op.
No climbing.

Might just take up surfing instead.

Yours miserably,

BB
Jon Stewart - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
It has rained every day in the Lakes for months. It rained today, but only a bit, so I went to the chosspile that is Lower Falcon Crag - as last time I went it was reasonably dry in spite of a couple of weeks of rain and showers that day. Everything is now saturated and the crag is not only falling down as always, it is also pissing from every orifice. Bag o'shite.
Post edited at 23:23
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Bloody hell, great crag, fantastic routes, what you thinking!!!!

And it's got lower offs!
Post edited at 23:29
Jon Stewart - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to MFB:

It would be better if it was an actual crag, rather than a pile of large stones.
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Haha - adventure
SenzuBean - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Took a buddy on his first multipitch adventure.
First we did Calculus Direct (5.9) - which was a nice 5.9 with a tricky move to access a finger crack corner. Then a short bit of jamming, jug hauling and then a wide crack. Then onto the main event - Calculus Crack (5.8) - this was a lovely route with a great finger crack crux. I'm not sure why a tricky finger crack move (long reach from a greasy average fingerlock) is only 5.8, but there you go. Ed was still keen for more, so I took him on Karen's Math (5.10a) - which finally broke him. He had to dog the early jamming crux, and the traverse. Somehow I had no trouble on that one, perhaps because I was expecting a strenuous 20m finger crack or perhaps because of my newfound love for doing crossovers came in handy. Then lastly we did Memorial Crack (5.9) - which I knew was going to be one of the hardest pitches (yes, the year of the FA really does determine if it'll be hard or soft- ones from the 60s are sometimes a grade harder than modern ones). This had another reachy finger crack crux, but with weird foot placements. This was one of the best climbs of the day. Then we did the lovely 4+1 pitch rappel to the bottom, and that was the day.
Afterwards Ed said he had enjoyed the day, and sees how cool it is to climb trad and just be able to climb wherever your gear placements can take you.
GarethSL on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

After about 6 weeks rest with a popped A2 in my ring finger I finally braved it enough to try and boulder indoors again. Had an excellent session and really felt that all the other exercise I've been doing in prep for winter has really paid off. My fingers are weak, but I felt so much stronger than before. Now just to take it easy so I can climb something real next weekend
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
That top tier of Bamford is brilliant for soloing easy stuff isn't it? One of the best views in the Peak too.

Had an unsuccessful days climbing at The Roaches. Tried an E1/E2 called Enigma Variations, got scared and finished up the VS next to it.
Managed to do an E2 next to it on my mates gear who had just led it.
Tried an E5 called Nature Trail and couldn't even top rope it!

Midgies invaded and ruined the day, so we ran away and tried a 7B offwidth boulder problem called Melvyn Bragg which I got pretty close to but no cigar.

A day of failure but still surprisingly fun
Samuel Wainwright - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to spenser:

Nice to see you've made it north of the wall spenser ;) I was over at Loudoun Hill on Sunday, there are so pretty gnarly routes there if you like thrutch!
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Forgot I went to Chatsworth on Saturday too. Managed to hide from a very wet Peak District and led Vibrio (which is brilliant) and Emerald Crack (which is brutal).
Felt like I didn't get much done this weekend but looking back I did alright
Chris Craggs - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Friday avoided the wind and showers clipping bolts on Stoney West.

Saturday packed the bags for month in Austria.

Sunday joined the crowds for a very sociable time on good old Stanage Popular.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=297948


Chris
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Good effort on Emerald Crack - it looks a beast. I went to Chatsworth back in July and managed to wreck my shoulder doing a Cave Crack at the lofty grade of severe! I ended up not climbing for the next four weeks waiting for the pain to go away. Have you done Sentinel also?
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It did look rather busy at Stanage when I drove past, there were a fair few people at Bamford, considering I didn't even get to the left end of the crag and how quiet it normally seems to be.
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

We were at Stanage too and remarked on how (relatively) quiet it was! We arrived at about 11am and were the first car that couldn't fit in the off-road spaces at the Popular end parking. Did a sprinkling of classic routes (and some less so) and didn't have to queue for anything, not even Central Trinity.
C Witter on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
I was stupidly optimistic this weekend. After a difficult week of work, with no climbing done, I was gagging for a good trip out. The weather forecast showed 30% chance of rain showers in Langdale, drying up around noon. I thought to myself: "by the time you get up to Gimmer, it'll be dryish, and you can climb something steady - Asterisk into C Route into Treasure looks good." Of course, it didn't work out that way. It was never going to work out that way.

When I arrived in Langdale at 10am with a friend everything was soaked and the wind was whipping little showers over us. We decided to make an ascent of Middlefell Buttress to give the crags a chance to dry up. How naive, given the dark sodden mass of cloud pouring down into the valley from Crinkle Crags.

Heading up Castration Crack in the wet was a bit more than I'd bargained for. Cock sure, I didn't read the guide book description - just thought: there's the way, looks fine, s'only a Diff. But, it's a couple of awkward and steep moves up to gain a deep polished crack bordering an overpolished slab - and worth a Severe for most people. The holds on the slab are far too small and worn to trust to cold wet fingers, meaning that I had to resort to an odd mixture of palming downwards and whaling up the crack. Where I thought I'd sail up, I found myself lacing the route. Half way up the rain started again, and by the time I'd built a belay I was soaked. My friend decided to try it in big boots, like a pro, but had to change to climbing shoes to make the first tricky moves... And arrived looking as wet and cold as me. We decided to walk off and go to the ODG to dry off.

Arriving there, we found a couple who'd come all the way from Leeds on public transport, trying hard not to look utterly disappointed by the rain pissing on their parade. Inside were another couple of teams and a friendly barman positively glowing with Schadenfreude. Chatting with him, he said we could leave our bags and lent us a scrambling book to peruse. Outside again, we met Helen Mort and Andrew Marshall; someone from BBC Radio was with them, holding a mic boom with what looked to be a very sad, soggy squirrel on the end.

Still the rain didn't stop, so we ended up scrambling up Browney Gill instead. What a lovely place! The scrambling was mostly boulder hopping, as we didn't fancy the tricky bits over the falls - we'd not come prepared with full waterproofs and I was in trainers that were soaking up water like sponges.

Ack, it wasn't Gimmer, that's for sure! But, it's good to get out! Or... at least, so we kept telling ourselves...
Post edited at 11:39
Chris Craggs - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Agreed, I have seen it a lot busier. Having said that, the car park and overflow verges were as full as I have ever seen them. I suspect we got mixed up in the 'herd' as everyone slowly grazed their way northwards collecting classics along the way,

Chris
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Saved Sentinel for another day.
Great crag though, it should be more popular than it is.
spenser - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

I used to live north of the wall so it's certainly not unheard of! I'd strongly recommend a visit to Galloway when you get a free weekend!
steveriley - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Spent more than time than is decent on some low grade Cheshire Sandstone (V2-ish) I'm going with 'stiff grade' rather than decrepitude!
Post edited at 13:05
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to C Witter:

Now that's a good trip report. Maybe Andrew will be a long to this thread and say what his media stardom was all about, although I think Helen is a poet, so far more likely to be about her!
planetmarshall on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> Now that's a good trip report. Maybe Andrew will be a long to this thread and say what his media stardom was all about, although I think Helen is a poet, so far more likely to be about her!

Yes, I was only there on minion duty. Thankfully as it's radio, we could cheat a bit and didn't actually climb Middlefell Buttress, though we did a couple of weeks ago but had some technical issues.

I'll post a link if it sees the light of day.
luke glaister - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
I had a cracker and did the Wye valley salathe challenge. 35 routes as quick as u can. I've never tried a challenge like this before but loved it. Got lucky with the crowds at wyndcliff also. And I like to thank the teams of climbers who were there for letting us on there routes with no hesitation. First class.
Post edited at 18:13
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Hey Simon - just looked at your logbook for what you climbed and as a result have discovered a ** VS at Stanage Popular that I haven't done yet! Thanks! I'm actually contemplating how much I'm willing to pay my son to come and belay me on it tomorrow morning so I can tick it!

Alternatively, if anyone else fancies a few routes early doors tomorrow at Stanage and doesn't need bribing, leave a message!
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It's well worth doing
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Did Straight Crack (VS 4b) this afternoon Simon. Not too bad - a bit green and wet at the start but managed to climb around the worst of it. Thought I would be fist jamming out along the roof crack, but found I didn't actually need to use it - rather the interesting holds out too the arete just a bit lower. The holly tree could do with a trim if such things were allowed! I also did Twin Cracks (VD) which I see from the logbooks you were the last person to record, I also thought it was quite burly for a vdiff.
Offwidth - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

What did you make of Straight Crack?... I thought it middling HS compared to nearby stuff of the likes of Martello Buttress, Manchester Buttress and the Black Hawk HS climbs. I'd be interested in views on Black Hawk Tower as well (maybe the nastiest starred VD on the edge now), someone emailed me they thought it Severe and I probably agree having rechecked it. must have been climbing well and not paying enough attention when I did it before.
Simon Caldwell - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

I thought Straight Crack was closer to HS 4b than VS 4c (Rockfax). Arguably VS 4b (BMC) if you don't have big enough gear to protect the first couple of metres after the roof?
db79 - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It's been a good few days. Finally got on Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) - it felt pretty straight forward, so I guess all of the bouldering has paid off. Decided to have a go at Kirkus's Corner (E1 5b) after that which was lovely and surprisingly steady. Finished up last night on Scar (E2 5b) at Baildon Bank which is my first E2 this year and reason enough for a nice beer.
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell?Offwidth:

I think it is VS 4b in the newest Rockfax, and that seemed about right. There was a lot of water dribbling down the right side of the starting chimney and that right wall was all wet and green so I didn't bridge across at all, so it might have felt a bit harder due to that. It looks a bit intimidating too as I thought you would need to climb the crack through the roof, but I guess that's one of the things that makes it a good route!
victim of mathematics - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

I thought Black Hawk Tower quite alarming for VDiff when I climbed it. Good devious line though.
victim of mathematics - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

After the best part of 4 years in the childerness, I went climbing.

We went to Gardoms, Haytor, Hound Tor, Sheeps Tor, Subluminal, Cormorant Buttress and Cattle Troughs. They were all good in different ways. I've been forced to admit that Swanage is perhaps not an awful pile of choss. At least not all of it.

Highlights: Avernus - absolutely gopping, but brilliant anyway. And leading the 1,000th route on my stupid ticklist of every 2-3 star route up to VS in the country. Also, discovering that I can still jam. And seeing a wonderful friend I haven't seen for ages.

Lowlights: Failing to climb on some daft crag under a bridge near Bristol. Getting rained off Dartmoor. And learning just how much damage 4 years off climbing will do to your arms.
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> After the best part of 4 years in the childerness,

Was that your decision or a by-product of where you live? We had a baby at the end of July, who actually arrived quite conveniently in the middle of a month of no climbing while I waited for my shoulder to stop hurting (a severe at Chatsworth did something very unpleasant to it!), but I've managed a good few short sessions since, although living in Sheffield helps with that hugely!
Offwidth - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to victim of mathematics:
Cheers... I'll upgrade

Beta Alert....

Did you finish up the front finger crack with the hidden 'thank god' hold on top or the awkward short corner round to the right? I think both are pretty solid severe and many will probably want to split pitch it. Even gaining the ledge freaked me on roped solo a few months back so I called for a runner. Really good fun though and deserves way more traffic. Oh...

Welcome back btw
Post edited at 12:30
TobyA on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

My logbook tells me I've now done 22.8% of the climbs at Stanage Popular which considering I've only climbed up to VS there (maybe one or two HVSs) doesn't seem too bad BUT Black Hawk Tower is one of the easier routes I haven't done. I'll give it a go next time I'm there with a partner and see what I think.
Offwidth - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Keep it up. I finished all the sub-VS Popular End climbs I'm aware of this summer, having done some interesting old '51 guide routes I'd previously overlooked (even met Chris Craggs just aftre ticking the last one, as a portent of true Stanage obsession); its a good few more in total than listed in the logbooks, but I still have around 20 mainly obscure but still UKC-listed VS climbs left.
TobyA on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Lots of the logbook percentage must be boulder problems too - I've done a few but not actually that many of them. I did Soft Shoe (HS 4c) yesterday, an HS with a star that I had missed in the past. Its only tiny and I've done a bunch of other little routes on that weird bit of rock by the unpleasant descent, but it turns out I need to still do Cornflakes and Softshoe arete in that sector. Also battled up the butch Turf Crack that I remember climbing backdown and backing off back on cold dank day last winter - dry yesterday but still a tough little nut to crack.
Post edited at 17:31
TobyA on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to all:

Autumn is here, "prime connies" and all that. Has "Sendtember" began for you? As a teacher, it will be back to weekend warrior-ing from tomorrow but in the last week I managed various mid-week climbs, particularly with one of my best mates and oldest climbing partners, Dave, on a flying visit to the UK. He drove straight from Manchester airport to meet me at Hathersage for lunch then straight to Horse Thief Quarry, which I have been meaning to visit for a bit. We banged out a number of routes there, the best being Thieving Magpies (6a). Incidentally the grades in the UKC logbooks seem bizarrely high for the routes in the lefthand sector, the grades on Gary's website felt much more on the mark. We then went Froggatt to do some classics in the evening sun - lovely. One I led was Chequers Climb (VS 4c) - not quite sure how I had missed a ** VS before, but it turns out to be a bit of a brute! I'm sure Broken Crack is easier and that gets 5a... On Friday we were up on edge of the North York Moors so climbed The Night Watch (VS 4b). My lead as Dave had done it as youth many decades ago - quite a trip! We sort of considered trying Central Crack (HVS 5a) as well but basically wimped out and went to Scugdale in the afternoon and ticked off a bunch of lovely little routes there - great spot although I thought a few of the routes were no pushovers for their grade.

So who has done what?
Chris Murray - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:


> Quite an intense experience, some suspect holds and a fair amount of wet rock

Crescent climb as an easy wet weather alternative was one of the scariest episodes of my life.
Robert Durran - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday. Well, you can't have too much of an utterly brilliant thing. First time with a repeated partner though and probably even more blown away by the quality than when I did it as my first ever E2 thirty four years ago!
MFB - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Friday - after a gap of 30 years managed to repeat my hardest ever lead Man of Straw (E1)
The experience was enhanced by forgetting the seasonal head torch, finishing in the dark but thankfully friendly moon shining directly into ghyll saved us.
Saturday - failed on a vs, not that unusual but my 12 year old then led through, that was a first.
Sunday - wet Jake's Rake
Gary Gibson - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA: my 4500th new route and a few other bits and bobs at Ladyside Crag (AKA the Chimney) in the Manifold Valley.

TobyA on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Gary Gibson:

It feels like the news about your 4000th new route was only a few months back!?! Well done on adding another 500!
Bulls Crack - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Not this weekend but climbed on Craig Arthur 2 days running the weekend before and met one other party who had turned-up to top rope something in the evening. Other than that, no-one on one of the best limestone trad outcrops in the country - now with some quality, long sports routes.

I don't mind the quiet but its puzzling - the walk-in is hardly drastic. parking's awkward though. And take a lid.
chris wyatt - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Well done Gary that's quite an achievement
Donny M - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Headed to South Devon to a small esoteric crag on the beach, Pilchard Cove

Perfect if you want to be by yourself on some fun slabby climbs, with BBQ and Swimming opportunities. Most climbs are now bolted but there are still a few trad routes in the VS and HVS range.

Climbed 'Route 2 6b' (not yet in Logbook) Route 3 (HVS 5a) Route 4 (HS 4b) - all now fully bolted and needing sports grades of 6A and 6A+

Bolted 2 new routes 'Cock Ring 5a' (its a nudist hang out...) and 'Shiver me Tinkers 6B' (the nudists left after it got too cold) - 12m routes on cracked slab, soon to be added to LB.

I've asked for crag mod privileges so i can clean up the info and add all the missing climbs, but i urge you to check it out if you're ever near Dartmouth and feel like something other than the 'famous' crags of Berry head etc.
Post edited at 16:40
chris wyatt - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Lovely weekend. Saturday was cloggy - It was sunny. The faces were dry but the cracks were lavatorial. The best looking stuff was on the pinnacle as it gets some sun. It took a while to find the the correct traverse line form the descent slab and I while to get to the bottom of out chosen climb - octo. The first pitch (4b) was a veritable slime fest but all the holds were positive and the gear good. We took a hanging belay and pondered the second pitch. The chimney itself proved impossible as it relies on friction for the ascent.. I eventually solved it by using a flake out on the wall and bridging back into the crack - which got better and better with height. A great route and a great adventure.

Sunday was more sedate - two brilliant VS in the pass. Shadow wall and Lion.

Finally I met up with one of my old dolomite partners Mike - to go to Gogarth on the monday. We only just beat the tide on the traverse into Peepshow - meaning 100% commitment to the route. Mike did all the hard work as he got the first and third pitches. Conditions were great and a friendly seal came to watch. Went home very happy.
Post edited at 16:52
spenser - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Lundy climbing festival for the last week, started with American Beauty and Immaculate Slab (really not immaculate, glad my mate led this as the guano polished slab was distinctly exciting!), Exorcist (VS 5b, that delivered a spanking with a single point of aid!), Devil's Slide, Satan's Slip, Albion, Shark, Diamond Solitaire, Centaur, First pitch of Roadrunner (tat and gear badly needs replacing as horribly rusted, didn't have any tat / pegs with us to replace), Centaur, Nonexpectus Jugimisisius (or some such name I can't remember, ace route anyway). If you've not been and know what you're doing with sea cliffs just go, it's ACE! Highlight of the week was watching Jonny Dawes gardening his way up the rockfall scar in the devil's limekiln!
Jon Stewart - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday.

Bastard.
Jon Stewart - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

There have been very, very few genuinely dry days in the Lakes this year. On this weekend's I had a party to go to in the Peak, which was quite nice, but not what I actually wanted to do. Today, with a frightening hangover and no breakfast I soloed all the classic routes I always did when I was local at Stanage, like old friends (not Old Friends (E4 6a)!). Still great, and I haven't forgotten a single move, but hardly a proper days climbing!
baron - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:
We were all at Trevor, all being about a dozen.
galpinos on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Scugdale is a lovely spot isn't it, just own the road from my mother in law's house!

Managed 200m of soloing at Stanage on Thursday after my partner was struck down with the lurgy. After two hours I was fed up of the midges and beat a hasty retreat!

Yesterday morning we managed Delstree (HVS 5a) (glad I was on the second, felt pretty unrelenting for the warm up) and Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) which is just class and a route I backed off 10 years ago so nice to find it ok today. Then the rain swept in and we called it a day.
Coel Hellier - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday.

How dry are the Cairngorm crags? Might be heading that way shortly, but this week seems fairly wet.
GarethSL on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Last weekend, Saturday: We tried the new VF in Romsdal, Vesteggen on Nesaksla. Not a popular choice of activity amongst other climbing friends, but we wanted to see what all the fuss was about as there has been a lot of criticism of new VF's being built in Norway. Well f*ck me its airy and there is a fantastic feeling of exposure almost throughout the entire route! Honestly though if you do have the misfortune to fall at the wrong point then you should probably expect some broken bones as the protection is well spaced. Whilst brand new and somewhat advertised as a challenging family day out, the climbing is surprisingly steep, with some overhangs and small roofs to negotiate. Sunday: we took a mooch up Vestryggen on Kvanndalstind from Vengadalen, with an obligatory trip up the famous rock spire of Torshammaren. We hit the summit within 7 hrs and were back at the car within 12. It was a family day out so despite soloing much of the route, we climbed as a 4 on the steeper sections and used quite some time on Torshammaren getting everyone up and down. Would love to go back and try it as a pair to see how much time can be saved.

This weekend was pretty lazy but we did get out to Kaldklova yesterday (Sunday) with the plan for a days cragging in the sun. Well it wasn't as efficient as we hoped. Partner forgot their harness meant that I had to surrender my harness (that fit) to them and instead use one that is far too big. Of course my old one didn't fit my partner either and we swaggered our way up a few routes with our trousers falling down and gear by our knees before accepting that it is dangerous and sucks! Ahh well, we were outside in the sun and didn't die so its all good.
HB1 - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

When you're suffering from a head cold (but, of course, you don't acknowledge that you've got it until too late) then Stanage Grit, even when its easy stuff you've done before, is not the place to be, when you need to be thinking in 3D, open to all possibilities and ready to make umpteen small but vital adjustments to body and mind - such a pity, because Saturday was a super day for all the fun of the game. . .

. . . ah well, it'll still be there next time
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:

> Friday - after a gap of 30 years managed to repeat my hardest ever lead Man of Straw (E1)

Tricky route! They're some small holds and intense smearing on an E1 I thought. Great though. Next time I'll do Feet of Clay (E1 5b).

Mick Ward - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There used to be a peg fairly high up in the groove but someone removed it back in the '70s. I ran it out from the little overlap to well into the groove and went looking for the peg. Of course it was nowhere to be seen. Through sheer idiocy I missed an obvious wire slot. Then the heavens opened and water sluiced down. Started back down the groove, obviously thinking I'd be off at any moment, just wanted to lessen the damage and go out fighting. Found myself back at the overlap, thought, "Definitely off now." Somehow reversed that too and ended up back at the belay.

We legged it down to some pub which sold mead. I lifted the glass and my hand started to shake...

Mick
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

Haha! Downclimbing a technical smearing groove in the lashing rain with no gear. Ah, that's what Lakes climbing is all about.
Robert Durran - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> How dry are the Cairngorm crags? Might be heading that way shortly, but this week seems fairly wet.

Shelter stone was pretty dry - just a few seeps on Steeple. Needle and Haystacks also being climbed. People were doing Clean sweep on Hell's Lum which is slower drying. Getting a good soaking today though!
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to galpinos:

> Yesterday morning we managed Delstree (HVS 5a) (glad I was on the second, felt pretty unrelenting for the warm up) and Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) which is just class and a route I backed off 10 years ago so nice to find it ok today. Then the rain swept in and we called it a day.

Such great routes.

The first time I tried BLH I didn't get off the ground. A few years later when I was pretty solid at E2 I did it and it felt...yeah, about E2. There are scores of E2s in Pembroke, Gogarth, Scotland, etc, that I can saunter up without much huffing and puffing. But BLH is a full-on, get-stuck-in effort, every time. Delstree is easier, but a real top 3 grit HVS up there with Suicide Wall.

Every yorkshireman whose insecurity about their local grit routes is thinly veiled by bravado and hollow boasting should be made to spend a day on the Hen Cloud HVSs (and the Cratcliffe E2s), and if they still don't get it, do it again until they understand the truth. There are amazing, full-on, big, butch grit HVSs out there. And they ain't at Almscliff!
MFB - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
handful of little cams helped (cheating really)
Post edited at 12:39
Offwidth - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Never mind Cratcliffe and Hen Cloud, what about Chatsworth E2 (like Sentinal Crack) or Ramshaw HVS (like Masochism ;-)
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Well they're certainly hard, but the Hen Cloud and Cratcliffe routes for me just have a different level of quality, because they blast up climb massive clean walls rather than weird-looking little lumps of damp green rock.
Post edited at 15:27
steveriley - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Impromptu camping trip to the peak with eldest, to show her what gritstone is about ...massive feasts at Grindleford and Outside, oh and a bit of climbing too. Great weekend.
Post edited at 15:29
Offwidth - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Got you... fully agree about the truly magnificent lines and positions but Sentinal Crack and Masochism are pretty impressive as well and more akin to Yorkshire brutes.
Michael Gordon - on 05 Sep 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Not very dry at all. Fine for something quick drying (like Shelterstone main bastion) but I'd be surprised if Clean Sweep wasn't damp in places last sat. Logbooks for that route show some keen folk!
steveriley - on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

A mate from running club has started doing a bit of bouldering. Took him on some crappy sports routes in a justifiably neglected quarry - first time on a rope. He bloody loved it
TobyA on 17 Sep 2017
In reply to all:

A bit disappointed that this isn't up and running under its own steam by now! >:-/ (Is that an annoyed emoji? Use your imagination if not!)

I've had a full week of "climbing" this week, for a work week anyway. Wednesday night I went to the BMC Peak Area meeting which was interesting and well chaired by UKC's own Rob Greenwood - in as much as it didn't drag on too much as these sort of things somewhat can. I was inspired enough to sign up for BMC individual membership and will try my best to attend the Open Stanage Forum, next Saturday in Hathersage - I'll find further details if anyone else is interested in going along to make sure climbers are well represented. Also interesting that on my table there was another Toby who is best mates with an Aussie climber who I met at an academic conference (on radicalisation I think!) in Brussels about a decade ago and who I've been 'cyber-mates' with since. Also got to say hello to BMC Simon who is business partner and mates with my first proper UKC-climbing partner and mate who now lives in Canada. Big circles and small circles in the climbing world!

Thursday I went Lawrencefield went halfway up a VS before it chucked it down. Climbed back down. Rain stopped. Climbed back up and finished it off. Roger led me up Quantum Crack and Great Peter (E1 5b) (which I was chuffed to second cleanly). I led Limpopo Groove (VS 4b) which was crap, but of course no climbs are really crap. Saturday the sun came out unexpectedly, so I went to Gardoms bouldering, despite being the world's worse boulder. Gardom rather confirmed this for me (seriously, has anyone done West Wall Left (f4)?! It's V0 and took me about 15 goes!? I mean, I know I'm bad, but really!? That bad!? Then I went to Birchen because I know my place. I did seven routes on the edge, then realised the midges were being blown away up on top so went and did a number of problems on the Victory boulder (they were actually OK for V0!).

So what else got done? And anyone else going to come to the Stanage Forum next week?
paul__in_sheffield - on 17 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Got out to Font last night. Expected crap weather today then improving during the week.
Turned out sunny and dry this afternoon. Did 27 problems on a circuit which was a good warm up for the week. Blue and Red Circuits tomorrow then off-piste for the rest of the week.
Cul de Chien car park was like Burbage today, full of Brits. Looks like a good week of weather ahead!
Excellent game this evening was to try and identify where we'd been and what we'd done in the Jingo Wobbly books. Hours of fun for all ages;-)
Tried a problem in a borrowed pair of Blancos. Why have I never tried a pair on before? Probably the worst heel on any shoe ever, but edging around the polish was brilliant. Next purchase sorted.
GarethSL on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Took a trip out to a local dry tool crag that was bolted over a decade ago then forgotten about. Unfortunately the guy who originally opened the crag died in the alps so info about the crag was never really distributed and it never made it to the local guidebook.

Tried a couple of lines at M8 which despite being relatively short were pretty good. Also set up a rope to try some other lines which went really well. We planned to go back and bolt the new lines and fix some proper anchors on the other routes but a pretty big party on Saturday evening sank those plans.

Whilst not the most productive weekend it was really nice to re-discover a dedicated and quite decent dry tool venue only 20mins from home.
C Witter on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I got out this weekend for the first time in a while - as the weather has been dire up in Cumbria and Lancs, and I've been working my ass off besides.

On Saturday I had a sociable day picnicing and bouldering at the Fairy Steps with two friends and their 2 year-old daughter. She enjoyed bouncing up and down on the bouldering mats, when we weren't dangling above them, struggling with slimey cracks and pockets. We managed to boulder out a string of severes and a couple of VS routes, including a tricky VS called Rheaed (VS 5a).

On Sunday I went climbing for the first time with someone met through UKC. We headed at a relaxed pace to Little How Crag, where we enjoyed Thunder Slab (HS) and Thunderclap (VS 4c). The rock there is great - that beautiful rough, compact volcanic rock you sometimes get in the Lakes, which is full of little pockets and protrusions and lends itself to delicate slab climbing.

Hope the autumn will bring more settled weather and opportunities to get out!
PaulTanton - on 08:19 Tue
In reply to TobyA:
Mousetrap, Flytrap, Bluebottle and Lighthouse Arete.
All at Gogarth

davidbeynon on 10:21 Tue
In reply to TobyA:

I just got back from a climbing holiday in the Julian alps...

Where the rain was bouncing off the roof for the duration of the trip, there was extensive flooding and all the mountains ended up covered in 2 feet of slushy, crappy snow.

The route I had in mind did not go.

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