/ The "what did you climb this weekend?" thread (2)

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TobyA on 20 Aug 2017

The old thread got archived so here's a new one. What did you climb this weekend?
I went to Bamford Edge today on my own as I couldn't persuade my children to come with me! I started soloing easy routes on Gun Buttress and down that end of the crag and soon had ticked a fair few. It was my birthday today, so it suddenly struck me, could I do 44 routes to celebrate my 44th birthday? At that point I started getting more methodical and doing every route I could do right to left along the crag. My parents were visiting and bringing cake round later in the afternoon, so I had a bit of a time limit and I only had a small bottle of water and a cereal bar for refreshment, but I made it - I actually think I did 45 routes (or variations noted in the guide), just to make sure I hadn't miss-counted! For anyone else of similar limited ability but levels of ambition, Gun, Porthole and Christmas Themed Buttresses at Bamford are the perfect place for such silliness. Most of the lines are relatively low without awful landings and there are loads of easy routes next to each other.
Post edited at 22:38
icehockeyhair - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Just back from a wee evening trip to Limekilns in Fife. Took my first trad lead fall when my foot unexpectedly slipped off a hold, very exciting. Luckily I'd just placed a lovely bomber number 9 hex!
spenser - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Spent the weekend in Galloway introducing some of the Oread's new members to sea cliffs on Meikle Ross, Fox Craig was a bit windy in the morning so we ended up heading round to Little Zawn after doing 3 routes, Mellow Yellow (VS 4c) and Bloody Crack (E1 5b) were stand out routes, I think I've done them both at least 3 times now and loved every inch of both of them!
Spent today at Clifton Crag, only got two routes in but did a very pleasant steep HS jamming crack. Definitely keen to get back up there and a repeat entry in the meet calendar has been requested!
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Crescent Climb (M)

Quite an intense experience, some suspect holds and a fair amount of wet rock
bouldery bits - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Still recovering from double hernia op.
No climbing.

Might just take up surfing instead.

Yours miserably,

BB
Jon Stewart - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
It has rained every day in the Lakes for months. It rained today, but only a bit, so I went to the chosspile that is Lower Falcon Crag - as last time I went it was reasonably dry in spite of a couple of weeks of rain and showers that day. Everything is now saturated and the crag is not only falling down as always, it is also pissing from every orifice. Bag o'shite.
Post edited at 23:23
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Bloody hell, great crag, fantastic routes, what you thinking!!!!

And it's got lower offs!
Post edited at 23:29
Jon Stewart - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to MFB:

It would be better if it was an actual crag, rather than a pile of large stones.
MFB - on 20 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Haha - adventure
SenzuBean - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Took a buddy on his first multipitch adventure.
First we did Calculus Direct (5.9) - which was a nice 5.9 with a tricky move to access a finger crack corner. Then a short bit of jamming, jug hauling and then a wide crack. Then onto the main event - Calculus Crack (5.8) - this was a lovely route with a great finger crack crux. I'm not sure why a tricky finger crack move (long reach from a greasy average fingerlock) is only 5.8, but there you go. Ed was still keen for more, so I took him on Karen's Math (5.10a) - which finally broke him. He had to dog the early jamming crux, and the traverse. Somehow I had no trouble on that one, perhaps because I was expecting a strenuous 20m finger crack or perhaps because of my newfound love for doing crossovers came in handy. Then lastly we did Memorial Crack (5.9) - which I knew was going to be one of the hardest pitches (yes, the year of the FA really does determine if it'll be hard or soft- ones from the 60s are sometimes a grade harder than modern ones). This had another reachy finger crack crux, but with weird foot placements. This was one of the best climbs of the day. Then we did the lovely 4+1 pitch rappel to the bottom, and that was the day.
Afterwards Ed said he had enjoyed the day, and sees how cool it is to climb trad and just be able to climb wherever your gear placements can take you.
GarethSL on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

After about 6 weeks rest with a popped A2 in my ring finger I finally braved it enough to try and boulder indoors again. Had an excellent session and really felt that all the other exercise I've been doing in prep for winter has really paid off. My fingers are weak, but I felt so much stronger than before. Now just to take it easy so I can climb something real next weekend
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
That top tier of Bamford is brilliant for soloing easy stuff isn't it? One of the best views in the Peak too.

Had an unsuccessful days climbing at The Roaches. Tried an E1/E2 called Enigma Variations, got scared and finished up the VS next to it.
Managed to do an E2 next to it on my mates gear who had just led it.
Tried an E5 called Nature Trail and couldn't even top rope it!

Midgies invaded and ruined the day, so we ran away and tried a 7B offwidth boulder problem called Melvyn Bragg which I got pretty close to but no cigar.

A day of failure but still surprisingly fun
Samuel Wainwright - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to spenser:

Nice to see you've made it north of the wall spenser ;) I was over at Loudoun Hill on Sunday, there are so pretty gnarly routes there if you like thrutch!
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Forgot I went to Chatsworth on Saturday too. Managed to hide from a very wet Peak District and led Vibrio (which is brilliant) and Emerald Crack (which is brutal).
Felt like I didn't get much done this weekend but looking back I did alright
Chris Craggs - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Friday avoided the wind and showers clipping bolts on Stoney West.

Saturday packed the bags for month in Austria.

Sunday joined the crowds for a very sociable time on good old Stanage Popular.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=297948


Chris
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Good effort on Emerald Crack - it looks a beast. I went to Chatsworth back in July and managed to wreck my shoulder doing a Cave Crack at the lofty grade of severe! I ended up not climbing for the next four weeks waiting for the pain to go away. Have you done Sentinel also?
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It did look rather busy at Stanage when I drove past, there were a fair few people at Bamford, considering I didn't even get to the left end of the crag and how quiet it normally seems to be.
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

We were at Stanage too and remarked on how (relatively) quiet it was! We arrived at about 11am and were the first car that couldn't fit in the off-road spaces at the Popular end parking. Did a sprinkling of classic routes (and some less so) and didn't have to queue for anything, not even Central Trinity.
C Witter on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
I was stupidly optimistic this weekend. After a difficult week of work, with no climbing done, I was gagging for a good trip out. The weather forecast showed 30% chance of rain showers in Langdale, drying up around noon. I thought to myself: "by the time you get up to Gimmer, it'll be dryish, and you can climb something steady - Asterisk into C Route into Treasure looks good." Of course, it didn't work out that way. It was never going to work out that way.

When I arrived in Langdale at 10am with a friend everything was soaked and the wind was whipping little showers over us. We decided to make an ascent of Middlefell Buttress to give the crags a chance to dry up. How naive, given the dark sodden mass of cloud pouring down into the valley from Crinkle Crags.

Heading up Castration Crack in the wet was a bit more than I'd bargained for. Cock sure, I didn't read the guide book description - just thought: there's the way, looks fine, s'only a Diff. But, it's a couple of awkward and steep moves up to gain a deep polished crack bordering an overpolished slab - and worth a Severe for most people. The holds on the slab are far too small and worn to trust to cold wet fingers, meaning that I had to resort to an odd mixture of palming downwards and whaling up the crack. Where I thought I'd sail up, I found myself lacing the route. Half way up the rain started again, and by the time I'd built a belay I was soaked. My friend decided to try it in big boots, like a pro, but had to change to climbing shoes to make the first tricky moves... And arrived looking as wet and cold as me. We decided to walk off and go to the ODG to dry off.

Arriving there, we found a couple who'd come all the way from Leeds on public transport, trying hard not to look utterly disappointed by the rain pissing on their parade. Inside were another couple of teams and a friendly barman positively glowing with Schadenfreude. Chatting with him, he said we could leave our bags and lent us a scrambling book to peruse. Outside again, we met Helen Mort and Andrew Marshall; someone from BBC Radio was with them, holding a mic boom with what looked to be a very sad, soggy squirrel on the end.

Still the rain didn't stop, so we ended up scrambling up Browney Gill instead. What a lovely place! The scrambling was mostly boulder hopping, as we didn't fancy the tricky bits over the falls - we'd not come prepared with full waterproofs and I was in trainers that were soaking up water like sponges.

Ack, it wasn't Gimmer, that's for sure! But, it's good to get out! Or... at least, so we kept telling ourselves...
Post edited at 11:39
Chris Craggs - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Agreed, I have seen it a lot busier. Having said that, the car park and overflow verges were as full as I have ever seen them. I suspect we got mixed up in the 'herd' as everyone slowly grazed their way northwards collecting classics along the way,

Chris
deacondeacon - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Saved Sentinel for another day.
Great crag though, it should be more popular than it is.
spenser - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

I used to live north of the wall so it's certainly not unheard of! I'd strongly recommend a visit to Galloway when you get a free weekend!
steveriley - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Spent more than time than is decent on some low grade Cheshire Sandstone (V2-ish) I'm going with 'stiff grade' rather than decrepitude!
Post edited at 13:05
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to C Witter:

Now that's a good trip report. Maybe Andrew will be a long to this thread and say what his media stardom was all about, although I think Helen is a poet, so far more likely to be about her!
planetmarshall on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> Now that's a good trip report. Maybe Andrew will be a long to this thread and say what his media stardom was all about, although I think Helen is a poet, so far more likely to be about her!

Yes, I was only there on minion duty. Thankfully as it's radio, we could cheat a bit and didn't actually climb Middlefell Buttress, though we did a couple of weeks ago but had some technical issues.

I'll post a link if it sees the light of day.
luke glaister - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:
I had a cracker and did the Wye valley salathe challenge. 35 routes as quick as u can. I've never tried a challenge like this before but loved it. Got lucky with the crowds at wyndcliff also. And I like to thank the teams of climbers who were there for letting us on there routes with no hesitation. First class.
Post edited at 18:13
TobyA on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Hey Simon - just looked at your logbook for what you climbed and as a result have discovered a ** VS at Stanage Popular that I haven't done yet! Thanks! I'm actually contemplating how much I'm willing to pay my son to come and belay me on it tomorrow morning so I can tick it!

Alternatively, if anyone else fancies a few routes early doors tomorrow at Stanage and doesn't need bribing, leave a message!
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It's well worth doing
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Did Straight Crack (VS 4b) this afternoon Simon. Not too bad - a bit green and wet at the start but managed to climb around the worst of it. Thought I would be fist jamming out along the roof crack, but found I didn't actually need to use it - rather the interesting holds out too the arete just a bit lower. The holly tree could do with a trim if such things were allowed! I also did Twin Cracks (VD) which I see from the logbooks you were the last person to record, I also thought it was quite burly for a vdiff.
Offwidth - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

What did you make of Straight Crack?... I thought it middling HS compared to nearby stuff of the likes of Martello Buttress, Manchester Buttress and the Black Hawk HS climbs. I'd be interested in views on Black Hawk Tower as well (maybe the nastiest starred VD on the edge now), someone emailed me they thought it Severe and I probably agree having rechecked it. must have been climbing well and not paying enough attention when I did it before.
Simon Caldwell - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

I thought Straight Crack was closer to HS 4b than VS 4c (Rockfax). Arguably VS 4b (BMC) if you don't have big enough gear to protect the first couple of metres after the roof?
db79 - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It's been a good few days. Finally got on Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b) - it felt pretty straight forward, so I guess all of the bouldering has paid off. Decided to have a go at Kirkus's Corner (E1 5b) after that which was lovely and surprisingly steady. Finished up last night on Scar (E2 5b) at Baildon Bank which is my first E2 this year and reason enough for a nice beer.
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell?Offwidth:

I think it is VS 4b in the newest Rockfax, and that seemed about right. There was a lot of water dribbling down the right side of the starting chimney and that right wall was all wet and green so I didn't bridge across at all, so it might have felt a bit harder due to that. It looks a bit intimidating too as I thought you would need to climb the crack through the roof, but I guess that's one of the things that makes it a good route!
victim of mathematics - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

I thought Black Hawk Tower quite alarming for VDiff when I climbed it. Good devious line though.
victim of mathematics - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

After the best part of 4 years in the childerness, I went climbing.

We went to Gardoms, Haytor, Hound Tor, Sheeps Tor, Subluminal, Cormorant Buttress and Cattle Troughs. They were all good in different ways. I've been forced to admit that Swanage is perhaps not an awful pile of choss. At least not all of it.

Highlights: Avernus - absolutely gopping, but brilliant anyway. And leading the 1,000th route on my stupid ticklist of every 2-3 star route up to VS in the country. Also, discovering that I can still jam. And seeing a wonderful friend I haven't seen for ages.

Lowlights: Failing to climb on some daft crag under a bridge near Bristol. Getting rained off Dartmoor. And learning just how much damage 4 years off climbing will do to your arms.
TobyA on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> After the best part of 4 years in the childerness,

Was that your decision or a by-product of where you live? We had a baby at the end of July, who actually arrived quite conveniently in the middle of a month of no climbing while I waited for my shoulder to stop hurting (a severe at Chatsworth did something very unpleasant to it!), but I've managed a good few short sessions since, although living in Sheffield helps with that hugely!
Offwidth - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to victim of mathematics:
Cheers... I'll upgrade

Beta Alert....

Did you finish up the front finger crack with the hidden 'thank god' hold on top or the awkward short corner round to the right? I think both are pretty solid severe and many will probably want to split pitch it. Even gaining the ledge freaked me on roped solo a few months back so I called for a runner. Really good fun though and deserves way more traffic. Oh...

Welcome back btw
Post edited at 12:30
TobyA on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

My logbook tells me I've now done 22.8% of the climbs at Stanage Popular which considering I've only climbed up to VS there (maybe one or two HVSs) doesn't seem too bad BUT Black Hawk Tower is one of the easier routes I haven't done. I'll give it a go next time I'm there with a partner and see what I think.
Offwidth - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Keep it up. I finished all the sub-VS Popular End climbs I'm aware of this summer, having done some interesting old '51 guide routes I'd previously overlooked (even met Chris Craggs just aftre ticking the last one, as a portent of true Stanage obsession); its a good few more in total than listed in the logbooks, but I still have around 20 mainly obscure but still UKC-listed VS climbs left.
TobyA on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Lots of the logbook percentage must be boulder problems too - I've done a few but not actually that many of them. I did Soft Shoe (HS 4c) yesterday, an HS with a star that I had missed in the past. Its only tiny and I've done a bunch of other little routes on that weird bit of rock by the unpleasant descent, but it turns out I need to still do Cornflakes and Softshoe arete in that sector. Also battled up the butch Turf Crack that I remember climbing backdown and backing off back on cold dank day last winter - dry yesterday but still a tough little nut to crack.
Post edited at 17:31
TobyA on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to all:

Autumn is here, "prime connies" and all that. Has "Sendtember" began for you? As a teacher, it will be back to weekend warrior-ing from tomorrow but in the last week I managed various mid-week climbs, particularly with one of my best mates and oldest climbing partners, Dave, on a flying visit to the UK. He drove straight from Manchester airport to meet me at Hathersage for lunch then straight to Horse Thief Quarry, which I have been meaning to visit for a bit. We banged out a number of routes there, the best being Thieving Magpies (6a). Incidentally the grades in the UKC logbooks seem bizarrely high for the routes in the lefthand sector, the grades on Gary's website felt much more on the mark. We then went Froggatt to do some classics in the evening sun - lovely. One I led was Chequers Climb (VS 4c) - not quite sure how I had missed a ** VS before, but it turns out to be a bit of a brute! I'm sure Broken Crack is easier and that gets 5a... On Friday we were up on edge of the North York Moors so climbed The Night Watch (VS 4b). My lead as Dave had done it as youth many decades ago - quite a trip! We sort of considered trying Central Crack (HVS 5a) as well but basically wimped out and went to Scugdale in the afternoon and ticked off a bunch of lovely little routes there - great spot although I thought a few of the routes were no pushovers for their grade.

So who has done what?
Chris Murray - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:


> Quite an intense experience, some suspect holds and a fair amount of wet rock

Crescent climb as an easy wet weather alternative was one of the scariest episodes of my life.
Robert Durran - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday. Well, you can't have too much of an utterly brilliant thing. First time with a repeated partner though and probably even more blown away by the quality than when I did it as my first ever E2 thirty four years ago!
MFB - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Friday - after a gap of 30 years managed to repeat my hardest ever lead Man of Straw (E1)
The experience was enhanced by forgetting the seasonal head torch, finishing in the dark but thankfully friendly moon shining directly into ghyll saved us.
Saturday - failed on a vs, not that unusual but my 12 year old then led through, that was a first.
Sunday - wet Jake's Rake
Gary Gibson - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA: my 4500th new route and a few other bits and bobs at Ladyside Crag (AKA the Chimney) in the Manifold Valley.

TobyA on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Gary Gibson:

It feels like the news about your 4000th new route was only a few months back!?! Well done on adding another 500!
Bulls Crack - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Not this weekend but climbed on Craig Arthur 2 days running the weekend before and met one other party who had turned-up to top rope something in the evening. Other than that, no-one on one of the best limestone trad outcrops in the country - now with some quality, long sports routes.

I don't mind the quiet but its puzzling - the walk-in is hardly drastic. parking's awkward though. And take a lid.
chris wyatt - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Well done Gary that's quite an achievement
Donny M - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Headed to South Devon to a small esoteric crag on the beach, Pilchard Cove

Perfect if you want to be by yourself on some fun slabby climbs, with BBQ and Swimming opportunities. Most climbs are now bolted but there are still a few trad routes in the VS and HVS range.

Climbed 'Route 2 6b' (not yet in Logbook) Route 3 (HVS 5a) Route 4 (HS 4b) - all now fully bolted and needing sports grades of 6A and 6A+

Bolted 2 new routes 'Cock Ring 5a' (its a nudist hang out...) and 'Shiver me Tinkers 6B' (the nudists left after it got too cold) - 12m routes on cracked slab, soon to be added to LB.

I've asked for crag mod privileges so i can clean up the info and add all the missing climbs, but i urge you to check it out if you're ever near Dartmouth and feel like something other than the 'famous' crags of Berry head etc.
Post edited at 16:40
chris wyatt - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Lovely weekend. Saturday was cloggy - It was sunny. The faces were dry but the cracks were lavatorial. The best looking stuff was on the pinnacle as it gets some sun. It took a while to find the the correct traverse line form the descent slab and I while to get to the bottom of out chosen climb - octo. The first pitch (4b) was a veritable slime fest but all the holds were positive and the gear good. We took a hanging belay and pondered the second pitch. The chimney itself proved impossible as it relies on friction for the ascent.. I eventually solved it by using a flake out on the wall and bridging back into the crack - which got better and better with height. A great route and a great adventure.

Sunday was more sedate - two brilliant VS in the pass. Shadow wall and Lion.

Finally I met up with one of my old dolomite partners Mike - to go to Gogarth on the monday. We only just beat the tide on the traverse into Peepshow - meaning 100% commitment to the route. Mike did all the hard work as he got the first and third pitches. Conditions were great and a friendly seal came to watch. Went home very happy.
Post edited at 16:52
spenser - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Lundy climbing festival for the last week, started with American Beauty and Immaculate Slab (really not immaculate, glad my mate led this as the guano polished slab was distinctly exciting!), Exorcist (VS 5b, that delivered a spanking with a single point of aid!), Devil's Slide, Satan's Slip, Albion, Shark, Diamond Solitaire, Centaur, First pitch of Roadrunner (tat and gear badly needs replacing as horribly rusted, didn't have any tat / pegs with us to replace), Centaur, Nonexpectus Jugimisisius (or some such name I can't remember, ace route anyway). If you've not been and know what you're doing with sea cliffs just go, it's ACE! Highlight of the week was watching Jonny Dawes gardening his way up the rockfall scar in the devil's limekiln!
Jon Stewart - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday.

Bastard.
Jon Stewart - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

There have been very, very few genuinely dry days in the Lakes this year. On this weekend's I had a party to go to in the Peak, which was quite nice, but not what I actually wanted to do. Today, with a frightening hangover and no breakfast I soloed all the classic routes I always did when I was local at Stanage, like old friends (not Old Friends (E4 6a)!). Still great, and I haven't forgotten a single move, but hardly a proper days climbing!
baron - on 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:
We were all at Trevor, all being about a dozen.
galpinos on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Scugdale is a lovely spot isn't it, just own the road from my mother in law's house!

Managed 200m of soloing at Stanage on Thursday after my partner was struck down with the lurgy. After two hours I was fed up of the midges and beat a hasty retreat!

Yesterday morning we managed Delstree (HVS 5a) (glad I was on the second, felt pretty unrelenting for the warm up) and Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) which is just class and a route I backed off 10 years ago so nice to find it ok today. Then the rain swept in and we called it a day.
Coel Hellier - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Did Steeple for the eighth time yesterday.

How dry are the Cairngorm crags? Might be heading that way shortly, but this week seems fairly wet.
GarethSL on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Last weekend, Saturday: We tried the new VF in Romsdal, Vesteggen on Nesaksla. Not a popular choice of activity amongst other climbing friends, but we wanted to see what all the fuss was about as there has been a lot of criticism of new VF's being built in Norway. Well f*ck me its airy and there is a fantastic feeling of exposure almost throughout the entire route! Honestly though if you do have the misfortune to fall at the wrong point then you should probably expect some broken bones as the protection is well spaced. Whilst brand new and somewhat advertised as a challenging family day out, the climbing is surprisingly steep, with some overhangs and small roofs to negotiate. Sunday: we took a mooch up Vestryggen on Kvanndalstind from Vengadalen, with an obligatory trip up the famous rock spire of Torshammaren. We hit the summit within 7 hrs and were back at the car within 12. It was a family day out so despite soloing much of the route, we climbed as a 4 on the steeper sections and used quite some time on Torshammaren getting everyone up and down. Would love to go back and try it as a pair to see how much time can be saved.

This weekend was pretty lazy but we did get out to Kaldklova yesterday (Sunday) with the plan for a days cragging in the sun. Well it wasn't as efficient as we hoped. Partner forgot their harness meant that I had to surrender my harness (that fit) to them and instead use one that is far too big. Of course my old one didn't fit my partner either and we swaggered our way up a few routes with our trousers falling down and gear by our knees before accepting that it is dangerous and sucks! Ahh well, we were outside in the sun and didn't die so its all good.
HB1 - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

When you're suffering from a head cold (but, of course, you don't acknowledge that you've got it until too late) then Stanage Grit, even when its easy stuff you've done before, is not the place to be, when you need to be thinking in 3D, open to all possibilities and ready to make umpteen small but vital adjustments to body and mind - such a pity, because Saturday was a super day for all the fun of the game. . .

. . . ah well, it'll still be there next time
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:

> Friday - after a gap of 30 years managed to repeat my hardest ever lead Man of Straw (E1)

Tricky route! They're some small holds and intense smearing on an E1 I thought. Great though. Next time I'll do Feet of Clay (E1 5b).

Mick Ward - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There used to be a peg fairly high up in the groove but someone removed it back in the '70s. I ran it out from the little overlap to well into the groove and went looking for the peg. Of course it was nowhere to be seen. Through sheer idiocy I missed an obvious wire slot. Then the heavens opened and water sluiced down. Started back down the groove, obviously thinking I'd be off at any moment, just wanted to lessen the damage and go out fighting. Found myself back at the overlap, thought, "Definitely off now." Somehow reversed that too and ended up back at the belay.

We legged it down to some pub which sold mead. I lifted the glass and my hand started to shake...

Mick
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

Haha! Downclimbing a technical smearing groove in the lashing rain with no gear. Ah, that's what Lakes climbing is all about.
Robert Durran - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> How dry are the Cairngorm crags? Might be heading that way shortly, but this week seems fairly wet.

Shelter stone was pretty dry - just a few seeps on Steeple. Needle and Haystacks also being climbed. People were doing Clean sweep on Hell's Lum which is slower drying. Getting a good soaking today though!
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to galpinos:

> Yesterday morning we managed Delstree (HVS 5a) (glad I was on the second, felt pretty unrelenting for the warm up) and Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) which is just class and a route I backed off 10 years ago so nice to find it ok today. Then the rain swept in and we called it a day.

Such great routes.

The first time I tried BLH I didn't get off the ground. A few years later when I was pretty solid at E2 I did it and it felt...yeah, about E2. There are scores of E2s in Pembroke, Gogarth, Scotland, etc, that I can saunter up without much huffing and puffing. But BLH is a full-on, get-stuck-in effort, every time. Delstree is easier, but a real top 3 grit HVS up there with Suicide Wall.

Every yorkshireman whose insecurity about their local grit routes is thinly veiled by bravado and hollow boasting should be made to spend a day on the Hen Cloud HVSs (and the Cratcliffe E2s), and if they still don't get it, do it again until they understand the truth. There are amazing, full-on, big, butch grit HVSs out there. And they ain't at Almscliff!
MFB - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
handful of little cams helped (cheating really)
Post edited at 12:39
Offwidth - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Never mind Cratcliffe and Hen Cloud, what about Chatsworth E2 (like Sentinal Crack) or Ramshaw HVS (like Masochism ;-)
Jon Stewart - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Well they're certainly hard, but the Hen Cloud and Cratcliffe routes for me just have a different level of quality, because they blast up climb massive clean walls rather than weird-looking little lumps of damp green rock.
Post edited at 15:27
steveriley - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Impromptu camping trip to the peak with eldest, to show her what gritstone is about ...massive feasts at Grindleford and Outside, oh and a bit of climbing too. Great weekend.
Post edited at 15:29
Offwidth - on 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Got you... fully agree about the truly magnificent lines and positions but Sentinal Crack and Masochism are pretty impressive as well and more akin to Yorkshire brutes.
Michael Gordon - on 05 Sep 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Not very dry at all. Fine for something quick drying (like Shelterstone main bastion) but I'd be surprised if Clean Sweep wasn't damp in places last sat. Logbooks for that route show some keen folk!
steveriley - on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

A mate from running club has started doing a bit of bouldering. Took him on some crappy sports routes in a justifiably neglected quarry - first time on a rope. He bloody loved it
TobyA on 17 Sep 2017
In reply to all:

A bit disappointed that this isn't up and running under its own steam by now! >:-/ (Is that an annoyed emoji? Use your imagination if not!)

I've had a full week of "climbing" this week, for a work week anyway. Wednesday night I went to the BMC Peak Area meeting which was interesting and well chaired by UKC's own Rob Greenwood - in as much as it didn't drag on too much as these sort of things somewhat can. I was inspired enough to sign up for BMC individual membership and will try my best to attend the Open Stanage Forum, next Saturday in Hathersage - I'll find further details if anyone else is interested in going along to make sure climbers are well represented. Also interesting that on my table there was another Toby who is best mates with an Aussie climber who I met at an academic conference (on radicalisation I think!) in Brussels about a decade ago and who I've been 'cyber-mates' with since. Also got to say hello to BMC Simon who is business partner and mates with my first proper UKC-climbing partner and mate who now lives in Canada. Big circles and small circles in the climbing world!

Thursday I went Lawrencefield went halfway up a VS before it chucked it down. Climbed back down. Rain stopped. Climbed back up and finished it off. Roger led me up Quantum Crack and Great Peter (E1 5b) (which I was chuffed to second cleanly). I led Limpopo Groove (VS 4b) which was crap, but of course no climbs are really crap. Saturday the sun came out unexpectedly, so I went to Gardoms bouldering, despite being the world's worse boulder. Gardom rather confirmed this for me (seriously, has anyone done West Wall Left (f4)?! It's V0 and took me about 15 goes!? I mean, I know I'm bad, but really!? That bad!? Then I went to Birchen because I know my place. I did seven routes on the edge, then realised the midges were being blown away up on top so went and did a number of problems on the Victory boulder (they were actually OK for V0!).

So what else got done? And anyone else going to come to the Stanage Forum next week?
paul__in_sheffield - on 17 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Got out to Font last night. Expected crap weather today then improving during the week.
Turned out sunny and dry this afternoon. Did 27 problems on a circuit which was a good warm up for the week. Blue and Red Circuits tomorrow then off-piste for the rest of the week.
Cul de Chien car park was like Burbage today, full of Brits. Looks like a good week of weather ahead!
Excellent game this evening was to try and identify where we'd been and what we'd done in the Jingo Wobbly books. Hours of fun for all ages;-)
Tried a problem in a borrowed pair of Blancos. Why have I never tried a pair on before? Probably the worst heel on any shoe ever, but edging around the polish was brilliant. Next purchase sorted.
GarethSL on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Took a trip out to a local dry tool crag that was bolted over a decade ago then forgotten about. Unfortunately the guy who originally opened the crag died in the alps so info about the crag was never really distributed and it never made it to the local guidebook.

Tried a couple of lines at M8 which despite being relatively short were pretty good. Also set up a rope to try some other lines which went really well. We planned to go back and bolt the new lines and fix some proper anchors on the other routes but a pretty big party on Saturday evening sank those plans.

Whilst not the most productive weekend it was really nice to re-discover a dedicated and quite decent dry tool venue only 20mins from home.
C Witter on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I got out this weekend for the first time in a while - as the weather has been dire up in Cumbria and Lancs, and I've been working my ass off besides.

On Saturday I had a sociable day picnicing and bouldering at the Fairy Steps with two friends and their 2 year-old daughter. She enjoyed bouncing up and down on the bouldering mats, when we weren't dangling above them, struggling with slimey cracks and pockets. We managed to boulder out a string of severes and a couple of VS routes, including a tricky VS called Rheaed (VS 5a).

On Sunday I went climbing for the first time with someone met through UKC. We headed at a relaxed pace to Little How Crag, where we enjoyed Thunder Slab (HS) and Thunderclap (VS 4c). The rock there is great - that beautiful rough, compact volcanic rock you sometimes get in the Lakes, which is full of little pockets and protrusions and lends itself to delicate slab climbing.

Hope the autumn will bring more settled weather and opportunities to get out!
PaulTanton - on 19 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Mousetrap, Flytrap, Bluebottle and Lighthouse Arete.
All at Gogarth

davidbeynon on 19 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I just got back from a climbing holiday in the Julian alps...

Where the rain was bouncing off the roof for the duration of the trip, there was extensive flooding and all the mountains ended up covered in 2 feet of slushy, crappy snow.

The route I had in mind did not go.
TobyA on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

OK, who did what? I went to Stanage yesterday morning with Simon in the cloud and strong winds. It wasn't the most beautiful day for it shall we say. Simon "warmed up" by jumping straight on The Blurter (HVS 5b), he made it up too despite green, damp, and actual rain at one point! I gibbered up behind, although I did fall off the crux once. I redeemed myself by making a pretty smooth ascent of Rinty (VS 5a) which is nice little climb, not sure it's really worth 5a but I'll take any 5a ticks going currently! We then top roped Fate (E2 5c), which I surprised myself by managing to get up! I then went down the Hathersage to go to the Stanage Open Forum - see other thread.

I went back up there this evening on my own, hoping to enjoy a sunset after this morning's nice weather but it had clouded over by then, but still nice to have it felt like all of that end of Stanage to myself. Soloed a few little easier routes I haven't done before, including a nice little micro slab Emily May (S 4a).
steveriley - on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Stack of easy bouldering at the Roaches for me. Early start and at the crag by 8:30 - great to see the day go through its warm up from empty to milling. First visit in probably 12 years and still getting mileage in, better start pulling harder on stuff soon I suppose! Good to see a couple of new guys making progress on real rock and getting some decent problems under their belt.
Post edited at 21:48
deacondeacon - on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Stanage is so good in the evening when the crowds have gone, and it's lovely and quiet.

Went to Wilton today and it was really, really good (for a grubby hole in the ground).
Really quiet with just one guy bouldering at the other end of the quarry and more importantly not one midgie. I've been here once before at s bmc meet and it was absolute midgie hell.
Dawn- an Hvs with bomber gear but pretty pumpy and steep.
Christeena-a commiting VS with an exciting rockover.
Cheat-E3-a perfectly chipped wall with a spicy runout. Well fun.
Max-E3- hard work and very rewarding.
GarethSL on 25 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Spent the weekend in Innerdalen in absolutely perfect weather. Saturday we did the South ridge of Innerdalstånet as a warm up having heard the grades in the area are complete sandbags (argument being they are alpine grades as opposed to the newer n-grades), but found the route and grading to be quite ok. Then Sunday we had a lazy start and did the 6 pitches of Gjelkanten on Merrakammen which is a stunning winding line following a discreet ridge, absolute pig of a walk in though if you get lost. Topped the weekend of with a Kebab in Sundalsøra.
Trangia on 25 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Went to Harrisons.

It was absolutely heaving with people, I haven't seen it like that for a long time. Unclimbed wall area had at one time a rope on pretty well every route. Also an unusual number of groups under instruction.

Not withstanding that, the rock was in excellent condition, everyone was in good nature and friendly with lots of offers of rope sharing, both ways, to save having to wait for a route to become free before setting up your own.

All in all a good day on the rocks.
olddirtydoggy - on 25 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Got drizzled off Millstone after a warm up route Saturday but Sunday we took out 2 first timers to Wharncliffe and we think 1 of them might become a regular. A mixed success.
Stopsy - on 30 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:

First visits to Dunkeld crag this week. No mates or gear so just some solos of easier lines. Enjoyable if a touch unsettling when all the holds are full of pine needles! Good to see fair numbers of parties enjoying the weather and the routes!
TobyA on 30 Sep 2017
In reply to Stopsy:

I've seen some other pictures from today on FB from up that way and it looks like East Scotland at least is having much better weather than down here in south! Good effort.
Robert Durran - on 30 Sep 2017
In reply to TobyA:
> I've seen some other pictures from today on FB from up that way and it looks like East Scotland at least is having much better weather than down here in south! Good effort.

Indeed. A great day today sports climbing on the Arbroath sea cliffs
Post edited at 21:24
Stopsy - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It couldn't last, hope the better weather is heading your way. Although in the past month I have been pleasantly surprised with the weather in eastern Scotland! Explains all the sport about, might have to get back on the bolts.
Michael Gordon - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Stopsy:

> It couldn't last, hope the better weather is heading your way. Although in the past month I have been pleasantly surprised with the weather in eastern Scotland!

Take it you're not a local? Pretty sure it's been the wettest September for quite a few years.
TobyA on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> Pretty sure it's been the wettest September for quite a few years.

That's a good thing then isn't it? If Stopsy has been enjoying Sendtember, even if records say it's been a soggy September, it must be great normally! But the big question for Eastern Scotland has to be any sign of Pygmy Ridge coming into nick yet? ;-)

I climbed Kinder Scout today. On my mountain bike. So I don't think it really counts for this thread. It didn't actually rain on me too much but generally it was a spectacularly soggy experience considering how much rain we've had recently. JamieB, sometimes of this parish, calls them wet pants days when he is guiding up on Skye or the western highlands - no matter how much goretex you have on, you still end up with wet pants. I didn't even try to keep my bottom half dry besides some waterproof socks, but those were defeated when a part of flooded path a rode along turned out to be deeper enough that my pedals went under at the bottom of the revolution! And my pants (well, bib shorts under my baggies) did end up very wet.

I did see someone I think belaying at the top of Lawrencefield as I drove home, so full marks to them for determination in face of meteorological adversity!
Post edited at 18:41
Michael Gordon - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It IS great normally, but was fairly disappointing this year. An October like last year would be awesome, but probably too much to ask. I'm surprised anyone went climbing today; even going out on the bike didn't appeal, but good effort!
HeMa on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Today started as cold, wet and also late, as the peeps I was supposed to head out were running late (30 mins plus).

Things started to improve once we passed Porvoo and soon enough we were walkin' to Peltosaari. I warmed up again on a lovely line, which I've done in the past to show my friends the beta. Infact did it again, as a few other friends arrived (and for video).

Fiddled around with my new project, but I'm still too fat and the left highstep plus long deadpoint sort of scares me, after all that left knee has already been sewn together twice and don't fancy a third. Not to mention, I'm not sure how much of my meniscus is left to be fixed if I tear it again.

Then I again showed the beta to a slightly nastier line, and surpriced myself by cruising that one to the top as well... No video though.

Same thing with third line...

So pretty much spend most of my "climbing" day shooting pics & video plus giving bad beta and the usual stuff... Got nowhere in my new project (which until today I really haven't tried) and climbed 3 lines I've done in the past.

Oh well, could have been worse...
GarethSL on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Saturday morning was reserved for a shooting competition but was straight out to Lidarende to begin a crag clean up. We replaced top anchors on the existing routes that had some old rope threaded directly through the bolts with mallions and placed some perma-draws. Then we set about bolting a line that was tried a couple of weeks ago as well as clearing up the path and removing loose rock from the upper parts of the crag.

Sunday was followed up with a trip to Kaldklova, I set off on the first pitch just as it started to rain and we almost got blown off the top. Retreated to the car for tea and a croissant.
planetmarshall on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Take it you're not a local? Pretty sure it's been the wettest September for quite a few years.

The Met Office's anomaly map for September has not yet been released, but given that the last four years have been extremely dry (2014 exceptionally so), I expect you are right.

https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/climate-anomalies/#?tab=climateAnomalies
TobyA on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to all:

Anyone climb this weekend? I didn't get chance - was hoping to visit a Shropshire crag while down that way but it didn't work out, I did hear that most of the strong climbers in the UK were at Nesscliffe today though!

I did get out Thursday evening to Burbage North. Did a load of the easier routes down the far end which was nice and quiet, soloed supposedly I think the hardest route I've ever soloed The Artist (VS 5a), although really it is two boulder problems split by a ledge that you could PROBABLY land on if you came off the top half (which is touch green currently).
Dave Garnett - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> Anyone climb this weekend?

Visited Suicide Rocks for the first time yesterday. Did Spooky Spike (named after the worryingly detached flake you end up standing on) and Guillotine (named because of the massive lethally balanced razor-edged flakes you layback up).

Fantastic bit of rock and I'll definitely be back for Flower of High Rank next time (when it's less busy).

deacondeacon - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Went to Running Hill Pits cos I've wanted to go there for ages.
TBH it wasn't as good as I'd hoped. From Sheffield we had to drive past a lot of good crags to get there, only to climb in a few holes in the ground (but then what was I expecting).
Climbed a couple of variations on Spanner Wall which were very good but doubt I'd go back.


Didn't go past any McDonald's/burger Kings/kfcs on the way there or back either which is never good.
Stopsy - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Correct, well... just moved to the area. I'd been working out west before so dryness is always relative! Back to Polney again and t-shirt weather! Busy at the crag, so only Ivy Crack (VS) and some repeats of the same easier climbs from the week before.
planetmarshall on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

A busy day over the length of Stanage with lots of groups out trying to make the best of less than optimal conditions. Headed to the unpopular end of Popular, and attempted some of the more unusual climbs. BAW's Crawl (HVS 5a) was fun, though it was over all too quickly. Couldn't even get off the ground on Verandah Buttress (HVD 5b) - resisted the temptation to tell a well-meaning climber who insisted on demonstrating how to do the crux, where to go.
deacondeacon - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Couldn't even get off the ground on Verandah Buttress (HVD 5b) - resisted the temptation to tell a well-meaning climber who insisted on demonstrating how to do the crux, where to go.

Offwidth? You at Stanage this weekend? ;)
Offwidth - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Unfortunately not. In any case, I'm the opposite problem... being under a promise not to show the 4c method. I'll show the variety of other harder methods if asked (all really 5b upwards). I'm also fully aware of how annoying beta spraying can be.
j.kirby on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Went to Wharncliffe on Sunday. Terrified myself on Grammarian's Progress (VS 4c), backed off before the traverse. Got myself up Flake Climb (VS 4c) which also really did my head in! Wharncliffe seems a tough venue
Simon Caldwell - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to j.kirby:

You managed to pick a couple of the worst remaining sandbags there!
Offwidth - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to j.kirby:

Grammarians is an old fashioned bold frightener. Some say its HVS 4c, some say 'traditional' VS 4b but its certainly not VS 4c. There is a rather unique and fabulous variation on this route: bridging up between the two pillars to the top at around the same grade.
Offwidth - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
True for Flake Climb (I'd say this is tough HVS 5b and as such probably the hardest climb currently given VS on the crag) but Grammarians is on the HVS/ VS border so is hardly a huge sandbag. It is bold and scary, which is different to it being a sandbag. If it was less escapable it would be HVS and ironically probably more people would succeed (out of necessity). There is an adjectivally tougher VS climb on the same buttress (the safe Spider Cracks)
Post edited at 09:11
Chris Craggs - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to j.kirby:

> Went to Wharncliffe on Sunday. Terrified myself on Grammarian's Progress (VS 4c), backed off before the traverse. Got myself up Flake Climb (VS 4c) which also really did my head in! Wharncliffe seems a tough venue

Unless my memory is going, when I 1st did Grammarian's Progress (VS 4c) it was HVDiff - now that was a shocker!

Chris
Offwidth - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Tracking back in time through the definitives (now VS 4b) it was HS 4a after HVD after VD+ after HVD after VD. Still your Rockfax current grade of VS 4c is a terrible use of UK trad grading... if you think it's 4c at the crux mantel it has to be HVS.
Simon Caldwell - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Not only was it HVDiff, it was listed in the introduction to the guidebook as the benchmark route at the grade!
j.kirby on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> You managed to pick a couple of the worst remaining sandbags there!

Typical!
Offwidth - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

We have discussed this before. It probably was a benchmark given the skillsets and general protection available at the time and taking into account the effective grade creep of many modern VS gtitstone classic crack climbs (which are much less serious affairs now than they were then).
SenzuBean - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

It was a long weekend here. Saturday was just spent sleeping and cooking. I got our shit together in the last few weeks and started prepping the whole week's meals ahead on Sunday. Now we have a cache of healthy, home-made frozen food in the freezer (unfortunately still made the newbie error of forgetting to label them) to see us through stressful weeks when we can't cook. Really helps through stressful times to not have to worry about eating, and to be eating healthy food instead of quick junk. Plus cheaper! Accrues to climbing because I'm eating healthier so losing a bit of weight

Sunday me and Ed went to the Smoke bluffs. Did Laughing Crack (5.7), and then went to check out Penny Lane but it was full. Then we found a climb hidden by itself called Fata Morgana (5.8) - which was dispatched quickly. I top-roped it again to practice 'leavittation' on the bottom, which was my first time successfully doing it. It was quite painful, but at least I did some knee jam and could move up on stacked jams. I think my main error was not placing the heel-toe foot jam properly - I realized after I wasn't actually putting it into the crack and torquing. Also did the top-crux via face moves instead of jamming, which was quite interesting because the face moves were way easier. Makes me wonder how many times I chose awful jamming sequences instead of choosing more committing but easier face moves. Then there was an 5.11b slab we top-roped. Definitely some of the hardest moves I've ever done - I was well and truly impressed with the delicate crux sequence. Then lastly the classic Mosquito (5.8) .
Monday walked up the Chief with the missus, and was playing on rocks the whole way (jumping on boulders and doing the odd easy boulder). Very fun
TobyA on 15 Oct 2017
In reply to SenzuBean:
Indian summer? Global warming? Not sure, but it was warm and dry in the Peak today! This weekend nearly saw apathy win out and me not do anything, but I had had by today enough of my kids sitting, staring at screens all weekend - so decided we were having a family trip out this afternoon whether they wanted to or not! We went to Birchen, and the big boys seconded me up Stoker's Hole (HS 4a) with minimal moaning. The biggest even offered to belay me on something else so I also did Mast Gully Crack (HS 4b) which has a few good proper overhanging hand jamming moves at the top (if you don't wimp out and cheat up the slab to the right). The mini-boy (11 weeks old) seemed quite happy in the front sling-thing as we strolled up and down to the crag too. There was a bit of crying (apologies to any other Birchen visitors this afternoon) but he mainly seemed quite mellow sitting with mum and watching the world go by!

I see from Instagram all the strong people were at Nesscliffe again today. Congrats to Ramon for his first E8 and to UKC's own Rob Greenwood for what looks like a gobsmackingly impressive weekend of 3 E7s and an E8! :-0
Post edited at 21:40
olddirtydoggy - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Wildcat at Matlock. Wonderful 2 pitch limestone with a bit of gardening thrown in for those with green fingers.
Post edited at 07:01
gribble - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

A 30ft ladder to mend the roof before winter eats it. At least I got to wear a harness.
planetmarshall on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Great Harry (VS 4c) at Lawrencefield. For some reason my first visit to the crag - I always end up going to Millstone. Failed, again, on Medusa (E1 5b). This time not a failure of strength but of nerve, above an absolutely bomber blue dragon cam. Really, really annoyed with myself.
Chris Craggs - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Two days back climbing (in test-mode) at Ax les Thermes since a minor toe op three weeks ago.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=300507

Great to be back at it


Chris
luke glaister - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Nice to finally be able to add to this thread. Lol. Went stanage. Did Manchester (warm up). Tippler. (Arm pump) Wuthering l
(Legs/calf pump). Cold turkey (Nice and steady) and finished on Eliminator. All in all. A cracking day out.
Wanderlust - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Great day at Froggatt. It was rammed! Bagged only my second HVS o/s so very happy Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)

Also bumped into Big Ron Fawcett, so not ALL the strong people were at Nesscliffe ;)
GarethSL on 16 Oct 2017
MFB - on 16 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Indulged in a bit of vertical hydroponics
Walla Crag Gully (VD)
Post edited at 20:54
HeMa on 17 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

As the weather isn't all that stellar and with one hyperactive toddler and one baby, had to resort to indoor climbing...

So on Sun morning, went with the whole family to BK Pasila for some casual bouldering... It seems I'm still week... So only climbed low 6s.
https://www.problemator.fi/t/problemator/profile/62022/training_log/#2017-10-15

And in between climbing, had Vallu test his new (& too big) LaSpo Stickits in preparation for March in 'Bleau.
TobyA on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to all:

Missed last weekend as I was away on my hols, but what have people been getting up to? It was a beautiful morning in the Peak today once the sun came out. I met some mates at Stanage, getting there in time to watch Rich styling through the crux of Censor (E3 5c). I led The Z Crack (VS 5a) which is a Joe Brown route, that gets both the bicep and thrutchy sign in the Rockfax. I reckon the climbing isn't actually that hard, I just had all the gear i needed for the crux on my right side, which ended up jammed into the crack making getting gear off my harness considerably harder than the route itself!

I was allowed to do one route when on a family holiday in Sardinia last week. There was something of a contrast between the climbers lounging in the sun on the beach below Cala Fuili on Thursday and those lounging in the sun below Stanage today. Same game, but somehow not the same game!
davidbeynon on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

On Friday night/saturday morning we knocked off a load of the vdiffs and severes in the Avon Gorge by head torch. 281m of climbing if my sums are correct.

Toddlers birthday parties on Saturday, followed by some nice relaxed HS/VS slab climbing with a beginner in Fairy Cave Quarry today.
slab_happy on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> I reckon the climbing isn't actually that hard, I just had all the gear i needed for the crux on my right side, which ended up jammed into the crack making getting gear off my harness considerably harder than the route itself!

It's a cosmic law of thrutchy routes that the gear you need will *always* be on the side of your body jammed into the route. It remains true even if you change sides or move the gear you think you'll need next to the other side of your harness.

I went to Rivelin (golden and glorious in the autumn light today) and continued to work on reminding my brain how to trad. Root Route (S 4a) is a delight.
HeMa on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to slab_happy:

> It's a cosmic law of thrutchy routes that the gear you need will *always* be on the side of your body jammed into the route. It remains true even if you change sides or move the gear you think you'll need next to the other side of your harness.

Which is Why I carry doubles and rack a set per side.
davidbeynon on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to HeMa:

That just means you will need 3 identical pieces in a row.
HeMa on 29 Oct 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

When in doubt, run it out.

Still in doubt, scream and shout.
Jon Stewart - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

There must have been some good days out on the grit had this weekend.

Highlight for me was this amazing little wall.

Diet Pepsi (f6B)

So brilliant. Failed horribly on both Hovis direct starts. The easier one seems to involve a scary no-holds stand-up...or was I going up the E3 instead? I'm fully back into the aesthetic and technical glory of grit crag bouldering.
TobyA on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Nipped up to Curbar yesterday afternoon for some moderate bouldering and to tick a couple of routes in the Little Rocker sector that I didn't do the other evening when I met a friend up there after work and I realised I had forgotten my rock boots.

Today I finally met up with Dave Garnett "IRL", who I guess I've chatted with for 15 years through UKC, we went to Turningstone Edge and enjoyed some morning sun but generally found it a bit cold damp and a touch greasy in spots. I led Sail Wall (S 4b) which is rather nice, and Dave did Amber Arête (VS 4c) which is very good. I also climbed up three quarters of three of the bouldery solo routes on wall by the descent gully, only to each time decide I didn't like the look of the top outs so soloed back down them.

We then went to Cocking Tor but didn't actually climb anything, so then crashed through more brambles and bushes to go and look at Bradley Edge and Quarry. It looked very green and damp, so we gave up and went to a nice pub.
Jon Stewart - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

Cocking Tor's well, cock, isn't it? I'm sure it's great if you've climbed everything in the country up to 8a or something, but for a day out, it sucks (cock) frankly.
C Witter on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:
Nice to see people are still getting out - there's been some good weather, no?

I had a jaunt to a very quiet Shepherd's Crag on Saturday, with a friend who is new to leading.

I felt a bit bad for twisting their arm into going, as when we arrived everything looked very wet. In a moment of bravado, I decided we'd start on Brown Slabs Crack (VS**), but the rock was greasy as a wet toad. I got stood up on the first holds and then realised I didn't trust my feet at all and gibbered back down.

After that embarrassment, we headed back along the crag, fingering the rock along the way. When we got to the seeping North Buttress, we realised that the bottom of Adam (H/VS 5a) was almost bone dry - and it looked promising above. So, I started up that - making a point to stick to the bottom right crack which I'd previously dodged to the left. All was going well, but it was really hard to leave the first belay ledge, where there's a big spike I could have abbed off. It was a bit nerve-wracking to try and commit with wet feet to a route that might be damp above; and my nerve was completely shot for ten minutes. It was one of those moments where the idea of trad climbing suddenly seems absurd, and you just want to be back on dry land. I was starting to feel bad for my patient second... when they suddenly announced that they'd like to have a go (despite S being their top lead at that point). Well, that was enough to embarrass me back into action. By the time I (eventually) reached the top, I was back in love with climbing, grinning on my perch, with the Derwent wetland flashing below me in the sunshine and the dead bracken on the Cat Bells glowing purple.

After that, we set out up Donkey's Ears (H/S 4a), and I massively enjoyed watching my friend send that delicate and exposed third pitch. A sound achievement.

Hopefully it won't be the last trad outing of the year!
Post edited at 10:42
Wanderlust - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Did Paddock (VD) before falling off The File (VS 4c)

After this we went for some much needed jamming practice above pads on a nice little 5m crack closer to the road (which I couldn't find in the book).

Weather looks good for next weekend too (at the moment)!

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