UKC

Hello all,

Planning on heading to the lakes for the bank holiday weekend with a few mates. Don't know the area very well so looking for suggestions of the best routes and crags for someone leading around E3/4?

Cheers,
David

In reply to DavidMcK:

What you need is somewhere quick-drying. The Lakes is soaked, so don't consider anything that's not in the sun all day and taking no drainage.

I would go to Gimmer - but this is going to be busy on a BH I'm afraid. There are off-the-beaten-track crags that might fit the bill, but we're talking about big walk-ins and dirty routes that no one's done in ages and I wouldn't take the risk.

Gimmer is clean, quick drying and convenient for a mountain crag. There is loads of parking (NT) in Langdale. The routes are absolutely phenomenal.

The E2s Spring Bank (E2 5c) and Equus (E2 5c) are both superb, the latter is top-end and has a lot of climbing on it: only 1 pitch but a big'un. There's Eastern Hammer (E3 6a) which is top-end as well and I haven't tried it because of the E5 leaders I've seen wobbling on it. There's an E4*** too I think.

Note that the hard routes in the Lakes aren't like the hard routes in N Wales or Pembroke - no one does them, and everything's been piss-wet for months, so they won't be in good nick.

Other possibilities include Dow Crag, which has fantastic E2s: Samba Pa Ti (E2 5b) and Pink Panther (E2 5c) and E4s that people do actually climb: Tumble (E4 6a) and Holocaust (E4 6a). Or Pavey Ark - great E2/3s but E4s on Pavey could be, err, interesting at the moment.

In general, I'd say there's going to have to be some compromise because so much stuff is wet, and you're coming on a bank hol when the decent stuff is going to be busy (even though it's deserted on every other day of the year!).

In reply to DavidMcK:

I was thinking of going myself but the forecast is a bit iffy. You'll need somewhere quick drying and possibly low down single pith so you don't get too committed if a shower rolls in quickly. Unfortunate I can't think of much! Possibly the slate around Coniston, Ten Years After is/was very good but no done much else. Good collection of mid extremes in Duddon, particularly at Burnt Crag. Best hope Fiend sees this as I guess he's done more than most.

In reply to Tyler:


He'll send you to some god-awful chosspile that hasn't been climbed since the 80s. But it won't be far from the car at least!

In reply to DavidMcK:

If its dry then I'd take a look at Reecastle Crag It's single pitch and has a good concentration of quality E grade routes.

It does tend to seep though so make sure it has been dry a few days before going on it.

In reply to DavidMcK:

If the weather's not great then Burnt Crag is great but single pitch but(!) a fantastic setting

In reply to Lord_ash2000:



Yes, I'd be surprised - shocked actually - if it's dry this weekend.

In reply to DavidMcK:

Hi David,

Don't be put off by an iffy forecast, there's plenty of crags in the Lakes that dry quickly, with quality routes of the grades you're looking for. Just because a route hasn't been climbed for a while doesn't mean it can't be climbed or won't be clean... a lot of the better quality routes stay clean enough to climb naturally.

Have a look through the guides... some ideas of quick drying venues... low lying Eskdale granite, Raven Langdale (3 great E5's that dry in seconds), the bigger slate quarries (Cathedral can be dank after wet weather), Buckbarrow Wasdale, Kern Knotts (routes on the Cat wall fit your criteria - far right hand can seep a little though), Duddon crags as mentioned (parts of Burnt can seep but they'll always be enough to go at, Far Hill is worth checking out too), Lower and Upper Raven in Borrowdale, Bowderstone crag, Iron in Thirlmere....

Always St. Bees bolt clipping too if it's raining in the central lakes!

In reply to chris m fisher:


I think you mean Falcon Crag.


Chapel Head and Scout Scar or Yorkshire for bolts.

In reply to DavidMcK:

Chapel Head and Scout Scar both minging today - need some dry, less humid weather to dry them out a bit.

In reply to DavidMcK:
Central Pillar, classic E2 on Esk Buttress. Great route, south facing crag, dries quickly. Go do it!

Raven Thirlmere may be worth checking out. Top crag. Not been on a dodgy forecast but it's relatively low and gets the sun.

In reply to Misha:


Great route, but the walk-in will be vile given the constant rain for the last 2 months.


I thought you were a late starter and the crag faces East? I've never seen any sun on it, but I've seen it on Castle Rock North opposite... I would expect routes on there to be epic adventures in filth right now. Could be wrong, I've never been up there, but I'm waiting for a hot dry spell, and I'm taking not just a brush, but a trowel too!

In reply to Rick Graham:


And it's piss wet and falling down.

In reply to DavidMcK:

Iron Crag in Thirlmere could be a good bet.

Clean rock, no drainage and great pitches in the E1-5 range. Hiddenite is one of the best E2s in the Lakes.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:


Yeah, good one. Quiet too - Iron Crag might fit the bill nicely, a bit of a hidden gem.

In reply to DavidMcK:

Mate, just come up to Dumby, you know you want to.

In reply to Hugh Simons:


Now we're f*ckin talkin!

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Lol!

Sorry.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
Was fine the couple of times I've been. Empire was a bit dirty.

In reply to Tyler:


That would be my best bet for getting route in between showers. It dries in no time and most lines take no drainage.

In reply to DavidMcK:
Whilst those grades are out of my league, you'll find plenty to do at Trowbarrow, Armathwaite is another option. Both are obviously on the edges of the Lake District which usually means less rain and Trowbarrow certainly dries quickly.
Have a good weekend.

In reply to Misha:


Great! I'm needing a bit of Lakes optimism right now...

In reply to DavidMcK:

Keswick show cancelled due to waterlogged parking. That says it all about shady crags out of the sun or prone to damp and seepage e.g. Raven Thirlmere, Reecastle, Goat, Gable Crag. Lower Falcon, Buckstone and others may dry quickly.
Sun and another ten degrees required!
DC

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I find your lack of faith disturbing. Also I've heard rumours you voluntarily went back to Lower Falcon, you treacherous cur.

Tyler that is kind, but i'm sure many others have better experience and local knowledge possibly including Jon. The non-summer definitely seems to be the key factor here.

From my knowledge of what has been mentioned:

Gimmer: exposed, open, and likely as clean as any. Slightly sparse choice at the grades.

Dow: sheltered from Westerlies which would be a mixed blessing, may not dry out as well, probably best to get a recent report.

Slate: good in westerlies, plenty at the grades, and very easy to check out. May be seepage and not the classic Lakes trad experience. TYA might require pre-placed gear. Second Coming is good.

Burnt Crag: open and clean and sunny, lots of choice at the grade so if half the routes are seeping the other half would still give a good day out.

Far Hill Crag: very good but tilted a bit NW and can have a small bit of greenness. If it's dry and warm then great, otherwise a gamble. But could be combined with the crag opposite (Upper Blake Rigg or whatever).

(In general Duddon does have some decent accessible cragging at the grades)

Reecastle: Only gets the evening sun and can hold the damp, not a reliable option on a showery day despite it's brilliance. Easy to check out from the car.

Falcon Crags: Upper very exposed and should dry quick (summit), only 2 routes but both great. Lower takes a bit of seepage but loads of choice at the lower end of the desired grade band, easy to get up for a closer look. Delightful place.

Bowderstone: Only a couple of regularly climbed routes at the desired grades, has some tree shelter and a bit of a hoof.

Iron Crag: Some great stuff at those grades. East-facing so sheltered from the westerlies, but seems fairly clean. Possibly not had much attention?

Raven Thirlmere: regular reports are it's mostly green and unclimbed apart from a few classics, but those are good enough for a great day. Again it depends on the "lack of drying breeze vs shelter aspect".

Armathwaite: In the lakes rainshadow, and much of it has had tree clearance so now very open and dries quickly. Not classic Lakes trad again but if you like sketchy, bold, but interesting sandstone then a very safe bet. If you don't like that....pfffttt....seek help.

Raven Langdale: Reliable bet, open and quick drying, not a great choice in the lower extremes but in the mid+ ones there's some excellent routes. Could be very busy given that 90% of them start from the Pluto stance or bisect it.

In short it's all a gamble. Open SW-facing crags are more reliable but can have less choice or be busier. E-facing crags often have great choice at those grades but may be a bit grim or seepy.

Other ideas:

Hardknott - easy access, open, can be combined with Eskdale granite for example.

Black Crag Wrynose - small, popular, not exactly Scafell but amazing rock and guaranteed clean and quick drying.

Long Band Crag - it's a slog, and there's limited warm-ups, but it's open and sunny and the solid E5 climber will have some very impressive choices in a small area.

Gouther - only for 1 E3 on the first bit and the One Step Beyond slab (that and the E4 6b direct), but that slab will dry instantly. May get a smidgeon less rain than central lakes.

Goat (past Reecastle) - small and not classic Lakes but a reasonable selection at the grade, more exposed and quicker drying if you're waiting for the evening sun on Reecastle.

Bramcrag Qu.....only joking.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Dow's currently seeping a lot.