UKC

I was thinking of taking a trip to Lundy over May half term, possibly with a few friends from my climbing club. We want to climb [obviously] but also explore, take photos and generally chill a bit.

I have now learnt that there are access restrictions at the end of May/beginning of June. Is there still enough that is open access for 4-5 days good climbing, grades VD to HS or maybe a little more ?

Thanks.

Sarah

In reply to sarahjk:

Hi Sarah,

Seems to be a lot of interest in Lundy, what with the festival taking place and the other thread regarding the Devil's Slide.

In terms of access, you're quite right - a lot of the crags are banned - but by no means all of them. At VDiff to HS (VS if you're feeling brave) you're actually in luck, as classic crags such as the Devil's Slide and the Flying Buttress (home to Diamond Solitaire (VS 4c)) are unbanned. St. Patricks Buttress (home to Shamrock (VS 4c)) is also unbanned, although there's not much else there.

In short, whilst it does limit your options you've still got bag-fulls of quality to go at.

In reply to sarahjk:

Hmmm.

Over 70 of the c.100 crags are banned... and although it has good routes at all grades, there are relatively fewer in the easier grades to start with.

Honestly, I would wait until after the restrictions lift and have at the whole - especially so if you've not been before.

Perhaps go to Devon or Cornwall instead - which although they have restrictions will give you more choice in the gentler grades?

That said, I've never not enjoyed Lundy...

In reply to sarahjk:

There's more than enough for 4-5 days on the unbanned crags, even if it's good weather every day. You'll also have the bonus of some good bird watching opportunities, and there will be fewer climbers around (though more birders!).

In reply to sarahjk:

Having been there one August when the ban was extended, I wouldn't go there with the ban in effect - it's severely limiting. Lundy's an awesome place, go when you can make the most of it.

In reply to london_huddy:

It sounds like your own experience was marred by the anticipation of having all those crags to climb on and not being able to. Had you have gone knowing the ban was in place I suspect you'd have differently.

That said, I'd have felt pretty annoyed if I were you!

In reply to sarahjk:

Go. There's enough to go at that you'll not get bored, and it's an amazing place to be. The first time I went was at a similar time of year and I had a brilliant trip climbing at VS and below.