UKC

Deja vu - Kilnsey. Are threads insitu?

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Heading to Kilnsey for the first time later this week. Thinking of trying Deja Vu. The guidebook talks about threads, do I need to take cord to place these on lead or is it an insitu clip and go type affair? Presumably it doesn't take any other trad gear? Thanks.
 1poundSOCKS 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

In case you don't get a more informed response, they usually are in situ and I think the other pro is bolts. Anyway, I can have a look tomorrow and let you know.
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Cheers, thank you.
 GeoffG 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The threads are in situ or have been replaced with bolts. There is the possibility of a wire placement just before stepping left into the niche at 3/4 height. Rock 2 I think
 Unknownbiker 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Somerset swede basher:
There's no climbing on the crag tomorrow as it's Kilnsey show. Show day alsways the Tuesday after August Bank Holiday

Post edited at 18:46
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The line of Deja Vu is a little confusing these days as there are so many variations on that wall now. I think it's best to use two ropes.

The first two threads have been replaced by bolts and they are a little higher than the threads were. The start, even getting off the gound, is powerful and unprotected. Some people use a pad or clipstick these days. The first three bolts are shared with a few other routes. At the third bolt move right and then up to a good thread and continue up to another thread and a shake out. From here it is possible to traverse left a move and clip a bolt on Visitation then move back to the rest. Continue up the white rock above placing two or three good wires to gain a point where there are two grooves with bolts in them. Don't climb the one directly above, rather step left and climb up on small sharp crimps and move slightly left to a double bolt belay with two karabiners directly below the roof.
In reply to GeoffG:

I didn't know that - luckily we are going wednesday but thank you.
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Wow, thats comprehensive. Will chuck some wires and the double ropes in the bag.
 1poundSOCKS 30 Aug 2017
In reply to Unknownbiker:

> There's no climbing on the crag tomorrow as it's Kilnsey show. Show day alsways the Tuesday after August Bank Holiday

Just for info, I don't think there's any problem climbing when the show is on, just parking is more limited obviously. There were 4 of us there yesterday, quite entertaining with the show on. Unfortunately some poor sheep got chased relentlessly by various dogs.

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