UKC

Pembroke Route Info

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 Simon Caldwell 31 Aug 2017
Having somehow survived a week in Pembroke using the 1995 CC guide-of-random-grades-and-no-topos, can anyone with the current edition help with any of the following:

No match for crag id:2504 - Pitch 1 of Sea Tube supposedly traverses left from the niche (clearly impossible at VDiff). If you start in the same place but go diagonally up and left you get to the ledge at the top of the tube after a nice pitch of about Severe. What's this route called, and where does it finish (we went outside the upper wide continuation of the tube).

No match for crag id:18627 - What's the name/grade of the route up the crack in the slab between Chocolate Brownies and Rain Falls Tide Rises?

Threadneedle Street (HS) - Rockfax has pitch 3 going up the top of the Cracks. The old CC guide had it moving right and going up the wide crack to the right of that. I tried the latter, got to the bottom of the wide crack after a couple of 4c moves, then backed off as it seemed to be a vertical offwidth without any gear or holds. Where does the latest guide take it, and what's the current grade?

No match for crag id:869 - what grades do Giltar Slab Route and Giltar Ramp get? Hopefully no longer Diff and VDiff...

Thanks for any help/abuse
 d_b 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

1 For sea tube scramble into the niche under the tube from the beach, then up.

No traversing required unless the tide is too high to get to the beach and you traverse in around the corner from the slab. That's harder than VD I'll grant you.

I thought Giltar slab was severe but I need to check. Ended up soloing it after abseiling in under the mistaken assumption that my climbing partner would still have the gear she had used for the route she led 5 minutes before instead of helpfully stashing it underneath my rucsac.
 spidermonkey09 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I think Threadneedle goes up the top pitch of the Cracks, but not sure what the Wired guide says. Its definitely not Severe, I reckon its VS!
In reply to davidbeynon:

> No traversing required unless the tide is too high to get to the beach and you traverse in around the corner from the slab.

Thanks. The old guide has it starting on the slab in the same place as Left Crack and traversing horizontally left, though also states that this is at low tide! At low tide you can just walk round the beach...
 d_b 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I have done that traverse at high tide. I agree it is way harder than VD.
 John2 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The Fisherman's Point route is Peppermint Creams, V Diff - http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/information-summary-list/new-routes-archive/... .

The new guide gives Threadneedle Street VS, which I think is reasonable. The description for pitch 3 is, '12m 4a Move back right and climb the crack system just right of The Cracks to a corner, which is followed to the top'. I remember this as being nicely exposed on the move right.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

They sell the current guides in MrsWeston's
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

> They sell the current guides in MrsWeston's

I bought the previous edition over 15 years ago and had only used it once before this week, so I'm not going to fork out another £90+ for the new editions
In reply to John2:

> The Fisherman's Point route is Peppermint Creams, V Diff

Thanks, good to see the consistent over-grading of that slab being maintained
Strange to see all the routes round there being claimed (and apparently accepted by the guidebook team) with recent FA dates, when the 1996 guide mentions the slab and says it has several pleasant lines, singling out the two cracks left of centre.
 LizS 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Giltar Slab Route now goes at S and, on second, I thought Giltar Ramp was HS while my leader reckoned VS which is what one of the guides now says (Wired Guide?) - certainly something of a horror for VDiff!
 John2 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The current producers of guidebooks feel that this is the right thing to do. Personally I prefer the approach of the previous Pembroke guide which says, for example, in the Newton Head section, 'The upper tier above this section of the cliff provides numerous problems of all standards on excellent rock . . . One enjoyable route on this tier is included'. The new guide lists 7 micro routes.
baron 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

My 1985 guide has all your routes at the same grade and descriptions as the 1995 guide.
Except -
There weren't any claimed routes around that area of Fisherman's point.
Surely you're not questioning the grading ability of C Mortlock?
In reply to baron:

The Fisherman's Point routes aren't in my edition either, I got the details from UKC.

Not just Mr Mortlock - Rockfax seems to have general stuck to his grades, and they obviously won't have just copied them without careful checking, will they...
1
In reply to LizS:

I led Giltar Ramp and thought VS 4c (VS 4b low down, HS 4c higher up). Slab Route felt like VDiff but I was seconding
 John2 31 Aug 2017
In reply to baron:

They are not Mortlock's routes, they are new routes put up after the latest guide was produced.
 LizS 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I led Giltar Slab and would give it probably HVD, maybe S for the upper section. But the Ramp we thought was VDiff until we climbed it and found the lower section particularly worrying for both leader and second. My partner was still trying to find a dark corner in which to recover when a couple came along looking for the VS and showed us their guide book.

Still a great day out, switching to the left hand slab at low tide.
baron 31 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

My wife threw the 'dubious looking block' from Sea Groove into the sea in 1990.
It was still described as being in situ in, I think, the 1995 guide.
baron 31 Aug 2017
In reply to John2:
I was refering to the Giltar Slab routes.
Although new routes are constantly being claimed I'd be surprised if there was any rock between Lydstep and Tenby that hadn't been climbed up, down and sideways before 1990.
 John2 31 Aug 2017
In reply to baron:

It's one thing to climb a route, it's another to document it. While I agree that people often climb lines without writing them up, they can hardly complain if people do write them up later on.
baron 31 Aug 2017
In reply to John2:
True.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I've bought guidebooks which I have got little or no use from, hasn't stopped me wanting to take advantage the improved additions. Rockfax or Wired guide would be all you need and considerably cheaper.
 CathS 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

If you are just an occasional visitor to Pembroke and want one guidebook, it's well worth investing in the Wired guide. Stacks of routes, good topos and excellent approach descriptions and really inspiring photos. Don't bother with Rockfax. I've barely used mine in the last 3 trips since I got Wired - it just doesn't compare.
baron 01 Sep 2017
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

This assumes that newer guides are better.
When even the definitive guidebooks don't have all their routes checked before publication it's probably true that selective guides check even fewer routes.
Hence the grading and route description errors are perpetuated.
 jbrom 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The Rockfax guide is showing it's age now. The Wired guide highlights this, I would recommend the Wired guide, as mentioned above, it is a quality guide, covering a good spread of areas, perfect if you are only going to be an occasional visitor.

Giltar Slab Route (S 4a) - Gets Severe in the Wired guide, I think this is about right if you don't use the crack on the right for a rest for your calf muscles. A 50m route, mostly on a slab can feel very sustained. Great route, in a great position.

Giltar Ramp (VD) - As said above, gets VS in the Wired guide, can't comment on the grade as I didn't have my big cams with me and didn't fancy the unprotected (without big gear) start.
 Luke90 01 Sep 2017
In reply to baron:
> This assumes that newer guides are better.
> When even the definitive guidebooks don't have all their routes checked before publication it's probably true that selective guides check even fewer routes.
> Hence the grading and route description errors are perpetuated.

If they don't check the information, then it must just be reproduced from the older guide or from a new route claim. Either way, an unchecked route is surely either an addition over the old guide or no less accurate than the old guide. Hard to see how it would get worse.

Having said that, I agree that unchecked routes are a bad thing to find in a guide, though I have some sympathy for the thankless and under-compensated guidebook writers.

In any case, I'd second his recommendation of the Wired guide to Pembroke. It's truly excellent and the grading has felt spot on to me over several weeks of climbing. For a few days of that, a partner had the Rockfax guide with him and in every case where Rockfax disagreed with Wired, I favoured Wired's assessment. The Cracks (HS), for example, is definitely closer to VS than Severe.
 John2 01 Sep 2017
In reply to baron:

Checking all of the Range East and Range West grades is no small task, given the access restrictions.
baron 01 Sep 2017
In reply to John2:

True.
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

> Rockfax or Wired guide would be all you need

Except they're not, as they don't answer most of the questions I asked above

On my first visit it was a choice between the CC almost-definitive, and whichever edition of Rockfax was around at the time. Rockfax contained very few low grade routes, so the decision was easy.

Next time I go I'll probably get one of the two selected guides. Unless by then the CC have realised that nobody is buying the new definitives and have been forced to put the prices down!
 jbrom 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Unless by then the CC have realised that nobody is buying the new definitives and have been forced to put the prices down!

Surprisingly, this summer the majority of people I saw at crags at Pembroke had the new definitive guides.

To be honest, given the quality of the guides and the sheer number of routes in each one, and of course the corresponding man hours to create the guides I think they are very good value.

That said, as outlined above the selective Wired guide is very good, and produced with the support of the CC.
 jbrom 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Except they're not, as they don't answer most of the questions I asked above

Definitive if always going to be the best choice for comprehensive coverage, though it is worth pointing out that the Wired guide would answer all your questions in the OP apart from the one about Fishermans Point.

In reply to jbrom:

Thanks. So what's the name/grade of the 'outside' version of Sea Tube? I think I've had answers to the rest.

> Surprisingly, this summer the majority of people I saw at crags at Pembroke had the new definitive guides.

This week everybody I met was using Rockfax - which is how I found out Rockfax's versions of the routes. That's from a very small sample size though - over the course of 5 days (including the BH weekend) we met a total of 5 other teams (and saw but didn't speak to roughly the same again). Is it always that quiet?!
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Except they're not, as they don't answer most of the questions I asked above

> On my first visit it was a choice between the CC almost-definitive, and whichever edition of Rockfax was around at the time. Rockfax contained very few low grade routes, so the decision was easy.

> Next time I go I'll probably get one of the two selected guides. Unless by then the CC have realised that nobody is buying the new definitives and have been forced to put the prices down!

Fair enough, I just figured if you not used your guide in all that time there would be plenty to go at in one of the selected guides. I must admit I was surprised by how much decent low grade stuff I was able to find in the Rockfax when I had to put together some recommendations for a friend. Admittedly there was a bit of crag-to-crag movement involved.
In reply to baron:

Agreed but I would say the new ones are better than the one in question.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
> Except they're not, as they don't answer most of the questions I asked above

> On my first visit it was a choice between the CC almost-definitive, and whichever edition of Rockfax was around at the time. Rockfax contained very few low grade routes, so the decision was easy.

> Next time I go I'll probably get one of the two selected guides. Unless by then the CC have realised that nobody is buying the new definitives and have been forced to put the prices down!

The selected ones are pricey if bought as a block but I built up my set one at a time and they are certainly good to have.
It's tricky, if they could guarantee sales the price could be cheaper but the higher price pushes sales down even further.
Post edited at 13:33
 Luke90 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The Wired guide answers two or three out of your four questions. It's probably where most of the answers people have given you here came from.
baron 01 Sep 2017
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

To be honest my 1985 guide is fine for me.
80% of the routes are too hard for me to attempt and the lower grade ones, sandbags and all, provide more than enough to go at.
The uncertainty of some of the grades just adds to the adventure that certain areas of Pembroke can provide.
 Offwidth 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

At least buy Pembroke North its brilliant for lower grade variety and the grades seem uniformly a grade too soft to me.
In reply to Offwidth:

We may go there next visit - we thought about it this time but there was already too much to do in the south. But so far the last CC guide to the northern area has been used for a total of 1 day since I bought it 15 years ago!
 Offwidth 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Our recent trip was 4 days and we barely scratched the surface. You can walk from your tent to many of the crags
south of St Davids.
 Tony Jones 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
> Except they're not, as they don't answer most of the questions I asked above

> On my first visit it was a choice between the CC almost-definitive, and whichever edition of Rockfax was around at the time. Rockfax contained very few low grade routes, so the decision was easy.

> Next time I go I'll probably get one of the two selected guides. Unless by then the CC have realised that nobody is buying the new definitives and have been forced to put the prices down!

I really like the Wired guide but it does have a lot of gaps if you're concentrating on just one area. A thought regarding the definitives: call in at Cotswold in Carmarthen on the way down flash your BMC membership and get 20% off. (No connection - indeed I have been critical of Cotswold on here in the past - but it can make for a significant saving if you're buying several.)

BTW Simon, I note that you did Sea Bass on Fisherman's Point and didn't think it was worth it's Severe grading. The line that I did in the middle of the slab was a pretty delicate thing that I thought worthy of 4a (although it was better protected than the guide hinted at).
Post edited at 17:49
 Graeme Hammond 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Soloed Giltar Slab Route (S 4a) the other day was ace, it seemed quite soft for the grade of Sev. Then abseiled down again to doGiltar Ramp (VD) which just looking at it seemed at odds with the other things we had been soloing at the same grade in the area and thought it looked VS with what looked like a difficult to protect horrible crack just to start with so didn't even attempt, interesting to hear it might be as hard as my quick assessment.
In reply to Tony Jones:

I thought it over-graded relative to the other grading in the area (which was mostly at the sandbag end of the scale). Compare with Rusty Slab nearby which I did as my next route - there's more than a grade between them. IMHO of course
 Tony Jones 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks! Always good to hear about climbs that may be at the sandbag end of the spectrum! (Rusty Slab does look pretty good though...)
 CathS 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Rusty Slab is graded VS 4c in the Wired guidebook!

Interesting to read some of your comments on the routes you did. We went to Beck's Bay last Sunday. We did Central Route on Jackdaw Point which was quite a contrast to the other Severe we did at Fisherman's Point (Chocolate Brownies) - the top half felt like HS, and was pretty run out. And it's about three times longer! It also has a pretty intimidating descent down a steep loose slope to gain the lower abseil boulder. The climb reminded me a bit of Bow-shaped Slab, and is a good route in a great position.

I'd eyed up Rusty Corner and thought it looked a bit steep and blank for the grade, so decided to give it a miss this time. Probably a good thing if it is comparable with the crux pitch on Albion!

In retrospect we wasted a bit too much time at Fisherman's Point, waiting for the tide to go down to access the other crags. The routes there seemed soft for the grade and although very pleasant are very short. Next time I'd get straight onto Jackdaw Point or Rusty Slab, where the routes seem to have a bit more substance to them. We got the impression from the guidebook that we'd be able to access these crags from the beach at the bottom at low tide, which turned out to be not really the case. In the end, we abbed in and set up a hanging belay at the bottom of the slab of Jackdaw Point, as we didn't fancy our chances on the massively undercut (and very smooth) start from the low tide ledge.

Judging by the number of routes done, you seem to have coped better than we did with the extreme heat on Saturday and Sunday!
Post edited at 23:08

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