UKC

Verdon Dalles Grises abseils

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 Stairclimber 01 Sep 2017
I'm going back to the Verdon after several years and wonder if the Dalles Grises abseils of 45m, 30m ,40m 40m are still the same as shown in the Rockfax or whether with 60m ropes the terrace can be reached in 3. I seem to remember an alternative line of abseils in this busy area.
I would also welcome any recommendations from recent visitors for any 'easy' routes or other 'top tips' with respect to camping in the area for a week.
 ripper 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Stairclimber:

Can't help you with the abs I'm afraid - I've only been once and just followed my mate down (he'd been before). We camped here:
http://www.camping.lapaludsurverdon.com/index.html
Which was pretty good, decent facilities, free wi-fi in the evenings up around the reception office building, and a good few other climbers around to chat to/team up with.
 alpinist63 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Stairclimber:

you will have to do 4 abseils to get to the ecureuil terrasse, although there are different stations and slightly different lines which are helpful to avoid trafficjams... 2 45m ropes are ok,
but having 2 50m is better because some other abseils need 50m ropes.
a nice easy ( compared to the other routes in that secteur) new route is 2 doigt dans le nez. you abseil down rivière d argent, then traverse on a terrasse to the start of the route, very good and a cool location for a 6a+ route. Eycharme / free tibet area has an excellent route (2010): Crise de gouttes ( 6b+ ) , if you like 'gouttes d'eau's, a must!
since the campsite above the village has been closed, there's an other nice one on the left when you leave la palud direction castellane. +/_ 500m after the village, just behind a small bridge ( and before the big campground on the right) a small road goes up left to the campsite. pretty basic but nice and cheap
check out this website for routes:
http://www.topo-grandesvoies-verdon.fr/
 ian caton 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Stairclimber:
4 abs.

Buy French guide book when you get there.

Rockfax doesn't show escape routes.

If you can't do 2 doigts Dana let nez, you are stuck. It's the easiest route there.

Verdon grades need to be interpreted by when they were done and who did the first ascent. So you only have a vague idea what you are getting into.

I just couldn't do one of the single pitch f6b pitches near the rim on a top rope, I can normally on sight in France to f6c+, and have red pointed to f7c+ in UK.

Faites gaffe.

OP Stairclimber 02 Sep 2017
In reply to alpinist63:

Thanks for your comments, but looking for much easier than 6b+. The link to the Web site is good though.
 Offwidth 02 Sep 2017
In reply to Stairclimber:

Is that sector a wise choice if you want much easier than 6b+?
 jwi 02 Sep 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
I think so? It cannot be harder than 5c/6a easiest way up criss-crossing routes. I've done the decent in three raps but that involved 60m ropes and easy down soloing.
Post edited at 20:55

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