UKC

Aldery Cliff Update?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 johncook 01 Sep 2017
Aldery Cliff
Has anyone been to Aldery recently? Have the Buxton MC sorted out the anchor situation partially/completely. If so what have they done and where?
Thanks. I have not been due to various circumstance but have been asked by someone who would like to take a small party there.
Cheers for your responses.
 Dave Garnett 01 Sep 2017
In reply to johncook:

I was there weekend before last and it didn't seem that anything had been done about the topouts. All the bolts except the ones at the top of Hard Labour / Pig in the Middle have been removed.

The Mitre Crack / Cardinal finish is a bit exciting, especially when wet. It's also nettly (particularly from the Bishop finish). You might want to leave a rope in place if you aren't a fan of vegetable cornices.

The Carmen Mirander finish is currently OK using the old stumps, although you can't get any gear because of the way they've been cut (it did occur to me that this might have been done deliberately).

We did see a party kick off quite a lot of loose stuff while topping out over on the right somewhere (after doing the Spider or possibly Terrace Wall?)

On the plus side, the blackberries were perfect!
In reply to johncook:

Hi John,

I know that Buxton MC have met in order to discuss plans, but don't think they've reached a conclusion as to how to proceed - I wrote as much within my introduction to the most recent Peak Area Newsletter (which will be out in the next few days, it's a good'un too!).

As such there may be mention of it at the next Peak Area Meeting, but no firm conclusion. That said, this isn't to say nothing has been done - it's that they are taking their time to make the right decision.

Ross Burnage, who regularly posts here and is a member of Buxton MC, may wish to add more detail.



OP johncook 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

From a brief chat with the guys at the last meeting it was obvious that they wanted to do their best to rectify the vandalism and return the crag to an easily useable place. For me the iffy top outs are part of the fun, but are not to the taste of many.
I is good to hear that they are taking this seriously and I trust their judgement.
 Swig 01 Sep 2017
In reply to johncook:

Earlier this summer there were two abb bolts near top of surface plate (which looked like a load of rock had been chucked down it during some unnecessary cleaning). They might have been removed as well now.

Mostly possible to top out to the very top. The BMC installed a hand rail around the top which was useful when walking around to descend but shouldn't been used as a belay. At the top of Carmen (?) it was hard to find an alternative though and belay stakes were under consideration last thing I heard.
 Dave Garnett 01 Sep 2017
In reply to Swig:

> The BMC installed a hand rail around the top which was useful when walking around to descend but shouldn't been used as a belay.

Yes, I know that's the advice, although it's difficult to see how something safe enough to grab if you are falling over the edge wouldn't be of at least some use to someone trying to avoid being pulled over the edge by someone else.

It's like a via ferrata across the top, but more of a zip wire on the descent!

OP johncook 01 Sep 2017
In reply to johncook:
I will be at the BMC Peak Meeting (at the Maynard, Grindleford!) on the 13th where there will, hopefully, be an update.
If you are interested in Peak District climbing and walking come to the meeting. Get involved. And there will be free chips and sandwiches.
Post edited at 14:04

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...