UKC

Belay jackets

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 Richardhobbs 02 Sep 2017
I am looking for a belay jacket. I have got back into my winter stuff in the last few years an updating my kit. I never had a belay jacket as I don't think they were invented back in the pre mobile phone days. So being old an need to keep warm I am looking for a belay jacket from my research I have it down to three possible. Mountain equipment Fitzroy, black dimomd stance belay, patagonia parka. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 angry pirate 02 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

I used a Rab Alpine Generator jacket which is very similar to the ME Fitzroy (I think the modern equivalent is the Photon). It was a cracking midweight belay jacket but i sold mine when I got a Beghaus Belay Parka for my birthday:
http://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/BE1251?gclid=CjwKCAjwranNBRBhEiwASu90...

I've yet to use mine in the depths of winter but it is a seriously warm jacket (much warmer than the 100gsm/60gsm primaloft combo on the Rab), equivalent in fill to the Patagonia one but using Berghaus' own fill, which I have been impressed with in a lighter jacket. The fit is excellent with decent length sleeves, a helmet-friendly hood and a medium fits me (6' and 38" chest) over all the layers.
Currently very cheap in a number of places.
 SteveJC94 02 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

I've had a Mammut Rime pro for the last 4 years and couldn't be happier with it. I've used it in Scotland, Wales, Chamonix, Greenland and India and its never let me town. Well made, good features and very compressible for a synthetic jacket. When it finally wears out I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
 Mark Haward 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Myself and several friends have found the ME Fitzroy and Rab Generator Alpine both excellent jackets
 david100 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

second the rab generator alpine although i think it now goes by a different name. packs down small and works well when wet. Watch the sizing as it is cut larger to fit over other clothes.
OP Richardhobbs 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Thanks I will check out the rab, burghus and mammut.
 Tom Last 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

I've got a ME Fitzroy, really great jacket - good fit/warm to weight ratio etc. Fabric scuffs easily if you're bothered about that sort of thing. Other than that, recommended.
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Black Diamond Stance, based on the fact I have it... But I have used it in some atrocious conditions and it really is the bee's knees.

The Fitzroy is probably more appropriate for UK conditions, but if you're going bigger than yeah BD.
OP Richardhobbs 03 Sep 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:
I do like the look.of BD and the reviews are good one question though, how small does it pack down ?
 kermit_uk 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

I like my Rab alpine generator. Held up to a lot of general grit cragging and a number of winters in Scotland. Personally with good layers and gloves etc it's warm enough for the harshest conditions even on long belays. Plus it's pretty light for what it is. Warmer will have a weight trade off.
In reply to Richardhobbs:

It packs about as small as you would expect the warmest synthetic belay jacket around to pack! It has Primaloft Synergy in it (now known as 'Silver Hi Loft' or something), which is the continuous filament stuff they stick in sleeping bags. It lofts higher, and lasts a bit longer, but no it doesn't pack down small.

What are you using it for? It's hugely warm and unless you're in mountain rescue, going on an expedition or spend a lot of time belaying slow leaders on the coldest days of the year I'd say it's way too much for UK use.
 tspoon1981 03 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

I've just ordered the Big Agnes Dunkley http://www.bigagnes.com/Mens-Dunkley-Belay-Jacket-Pinneco-Core

It's currently on sale on sportspursuit. There seems to be a few reasonable reviews. It might be terrible though.
https://northeastalpinestart.com/2016/11/14/gear-preview-synthetic-belay-ja...
 Shaneclimbing 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Montane Flux is worth a look too
 Kirill 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Mine is Montane Spitfire One. Weights around 1kg and takes up half of my rucksack. I really really like it and would definitely recommend it to anyone who dislikes being cold.
OP Richardhobbs 04 Sep 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Think it will be a bit of overkill for Scotland. Thanks for advice much appreciated, look like rab or fitzroy
OP Richardhobbs 04 Sep 2017
In reply to tspoon1981:

Yes saw them never heard of them though worth a punt may be!!
 jezb1 04 Sep 2017
In reply to Richardhobbs:

Fitzroy is great, but not warm enough for me in Scottish winter, I use a Citadel for that stuff.

I am soft when it comes to the cold though...
In reply to Richardhobbs:
I tend to run warm and found the ME Fitzroy rather cold. I don't recommend it.

If you can find a Patagonia Das Parka anywhere, I'd go for that.
Post edited at 01:02

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