UKC

I have started messing about with the Beastmaker 1000 at my local climbing centre, and am definitely going to get one for the house. I was looking for beginner training advice, and decided to look at the App. I have a couple of questions for anyone in the know.

Firstly, the grade (5A is the starting programme). My local gym (TCA) has grades listed in UK Tech and Font. Is it safe to assume the 5A in the app is in Font?

Also, looking at the first hold, it's on the big holds at the top, then ones you can get your fingers right over. But the image looks like it's suggesting you hold it like a sloper (ie, finger tips just over the top of it). Can anyone advise me on what is the right way to be doing this?

I plan to try out the programme tomorrow night when I'm there.

If it's too tough, I will just create my own workout till I can do this 'beginner' one

Thanks for any help you can give me.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

The beastmaker grades are infamous for their difficulty. Don't be disheartened if you can't do the 'beginner' sessions.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Rolls On Floor Laughing.

The original "5A" routine was ridiculous. I worked at it for a year, at a time when I was bouldering steady 6B and the occasional 6C, and got close but never quite finished it. They've released another version of the app since though and the new routines are much easier.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Initially I couldn't do any of the prescribed workouts without taking a substantial amount of weight off with a pulley system.

I switched to a 'max hang' protocol (longer, fewer reps with longer repetitions). I also ditched the 'chisel' in favour of a half crimp grip. Hangboard guru Eva Lopez has written that the Beastmaker 'repeater' routines are more suitable as a replacement climbing session if you can't get to a wall, rather than a supplement training session, which would tally with my (limited) experience

In reply to AlanLittle:



It's the latest version of the app I'm looking at. Downloaded it today.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Anyone have any views about that specific first hold?

In reply to Gordon Robb:
Just about to do a session or two on mine.
I think that's probably a graphics thing on the app.
My advice is to use the big jug as open handed as you can until you can treat it like a sloper.
Takes some time but ultimately very rewarding. It's also worth being circumspect with the other holds to avoid injury. I've been using one for some time, but never use crimps or chisels, always open handed. It's a great thing if it transfers into your general climbing
Hope it goes ok

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Just another thing when you get a new Beastmaker. It can feel a bit slippery at first until some chalk and sweat has worked into the wood. It also responds well then to brushing, esp the slopers. Brush along the holds rather than in and out, it develops a little more friction.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Just take the hold as a jug to begin with. The session will still be hard enough doing that.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Thanks guys. Bought one today, but will use the one at the climbing place until mine arrives and I put it up. Looking forward to it.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

If you're weak they are. I used to think the same, then actually trained my fingers up and can just about get through the 6C workout (2 sets of 4 reps). For comparison, I have bouldered up to 7A in the same period. If they are based around font grades then the volume of hangs should be proportional to a boulder problem - i.e. 4 or 5, to match with 4 or 5 moves, followed by a rest and another go/the next hang.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Planning on trying the first session tomorrow at the gym.

In reply to Gordon Robb:

Maybe consider getting the 2000 rather than the 1000. According Mani it's not about the difficulty of each board. He reckons the 2000 is simply the better board.

See his explanation at youtube.com/watch?v=WiWSXPABzuw& (at 5.15)

Overall though he reckons you're better off making your own board which is likely to be better and cheaper.

In reply to stp:


I can only really see that being the case if you already have the necessary tools and have the time to hand. For me buying a board was a no brainer as the price was far less than what my time would be worth.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Sure. I suppose it's down to lifestyle/ income largely then.

In reply to stp:
And of course, if you want to damage your fingers or not... I can't imagine the average climber being able to come up with something anywhere near as well conceived/machined as a Beastmaker 1000!

In reply to jon:

Not really. There's very little skill required. All you need is a block of wood sanded down so it doesn't chafe the skin. Very basic and for training purposes you're muscles and fingers won't know the difference.

You'll need a drill to fix it to the wall but you'll need that for a commercial board as well.

In reply to jon:

most houses come with a fingerboard rung pre-installed above every door.