/ Snowdonia climbs to S/HS avoiding the weather?

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chaotic_chris - on 12 Sep 2017
Hello weather in Snowdonia looks mixed this weekend and is a 5 hour drive each way so we want to get the most of it. I'm no expert in the area but might head to Tremadog but there seem limited climbs to S/HS. Pant Ifan upper tier looks ideal and Bwlch Moch good but I'm wondering if they will get really busy, especially Pant? Holyhead Mountain looks great but does it catch the weather- wind forecast N/NW? Basically all ideas welcome! Thanks to any who post. Cheers Chris
radddogg - on 12 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

The Moelwyns is great easy multipitch, particularly Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns).

If you want to avoid the worst of the weather I recommend you head to Anglesey, in particular Holyhead Mountain were you'll find some of North Wales' finest single pitch routes
Ron Rees Davies - on 12 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

The worst of the weather looks to be over by the end of Friday. Winds look much lighter at the weekend, and patchy drizzle rather than full on rain (although the ground/streams are likely to be pretty wet).

Moelwyns would be a good call as there are lots of multi-pitch routes that are still grippy if it's raining. Have a look at Clogwyn yr oen. Or if you'd prefer single pitch Craig y tonnau.

Holyhead mountain is very exposed to the weather but faces SW so should be sheltered if the wind is more Northerly.

David Jones - on 12 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

Tremadog's the place. Enough at the grade to go at for a day or two as well. Betws y Coed is another possibility - sheltered, but perhaps a little damp under the trees at this time of year. I'd say that H'Head mtn might be a little draughty, even in a moderate NW breeze.
Pursued by a bear - on 12 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

The recommendations for the Moelwyns and Tremadog are both good. Slick (VD), Slack (S 4a), Chic (VD), Kirkus's Climb Direct (S 4a) are all good on Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns) and africa rib (VD) on Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns) is too; (others are available obviously, these are just ones I've done in weather varying from cold and dull to 'Is it too early to go to the pub?' wet).

Tremadog has its range of classic routes at severe - Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b) and Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate (HS 4b) are ones I've done in 'Why is my waterproof in the car?' weather - and has the added attraction of a fine cafe too.

But the weather's looking cheerier as the weekend approaches; would that it were always so!

T.
chaotic_chris - on 13 Sep 2017
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Thanks all. Climbed on Oen before and loved it plus if the weather really comes in can put the rack in the car and go for a walk. I think we'll see exactly what the weather is doing then decide on Tremadog or the other crags on Friday. Cheers Chris
radddogg - on 13 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

> Thanks all. Climbed on Oen before and loved it plus if the weather really comes in can put the rack in the car and go for a walk.

Or you can head up through the incline tunnel and explore the Wrysgan underground slate mine. I have the plans on pdf if you're interested.

chaotic_chris - on 14 Sep 2017
In reply to radddogg:

Cheers Raddogg - might give the slate mine a miss this time

chaotic_chris - on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

All, thanks for the help. Based on forecasts on the day, had some great climbing on Holyhead Mountain

Cheers,
Chris

Trangia on 18 Sep 2017
In reply to chaotic_chris:

If it rains, why not do some classic easy mountain routes like Amphitheatre Buttress, Grooved Arete, Spiral Stairs, Flying Buttress. Climbing in the rain is good practice so that you can cope in the event of unexpectedly being caught out by bad weather whilst in the middle of a mountain route. With modern wet weather gear it's not too much of an issue, and you are likely to have the crags to yourselves and avoid queues.

I've done all of the above in rain.

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