UKC

Auto belays at the crag?

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 kevin stephens 19 Sep 2017
Has anyone bought an auto belay to take to their favourite crag or project yet? If not surely it can only be a matter of time?
 Dan Arkle 19 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

I heard the BMC are putting them in Horseshoe - USING OUR MONEY!
 mike123 20 Sep 2017
In reply to Dan Arkle:
Do you know if the ticket machine they were puttting in at the entrance a few days ago is going to be linked directly to the auto belays ?
 pebbles 20 Sep 2017
In reply to mike123:

I think the new Sponsored by Cotswold logo on the gate is a bit intrusive
 deepsoup 20 Sep 2017
In reply to mike123:
I've been taking a Turn-O-Matic "take a number" machine with me to Stanage Popular for some years now. Very useful piece of kit for many of the classic routes, especially on bank holiday weekends.
1
 d_b 20 Sep 2017
In reply to mike123:

Is it like those car park barriers? You put the ticket into a slot at the top and hope it recognises it and lowers you off?
 Nordie_matt 20 Sep 2017
In reply to pebbles:
> I think the new Sponsored by Cotswold logo on the gate is a bit intrusive

Initially I laughed, but then I began to wonder. . . this was meant as a joke, right?
 Brass Nipples 20 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

On climbs too hard for ourselves we used to say sponsored by Teflon (c)

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 Si_G 20 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

I really don't trust autobelays since I forgot to clip into one.
 balmybaldwin 20 Sep 2017
In reply to Si_G:
A friend of mine did that. his ankle was never the same.... I believe a pretty young girl distracted him before he started climbing... she's now his wife and just had their second(i think) baby
Post edited at 21:28
 nniff 21 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

If you take too long, the penalty-slack feature should kick in
 pebbles 21 Sep 2017
In reply to Nordie_matt:

dont worry , it was a joke. Red Bull would never allow their Horseshoe sponsorship space to be shared with anyone else.
 GrahamD 21 Sep 2017
In reply to Si_G:

> I really don't trust autobelays since I forgot to clip into one.

Happened to a friend a while back. Fell the length of the wall and was 'lucky' to get away with just the fractures she had.
 Tom Green 21 Sep 2017
In reply to GrahamD:

Sorry, probably being thick (or missing a joke?) but how do you NOT clip in to an autobelay? This is a genuine question as I don't climb inside much and used autobelays for the first time recently.

In reply to Tom Green:

> Sorry, probably being thick (or missing a joke?) but how do you NOT clip in to an autobelay? This is a genuine question as I don't climb inside much and used autobelays for the first time recently.

You get distracted and just start climbing without clipping in. Surprisingly easy to do especially if you are doing laps and swapping between adjacent auto belays. At the wall I've seen people go up and discover they aren't clipped but manage to climb down safely and have heard of a couple of accidents.

I've got a routine of stepping up on the first hold and jumping off before starting to climb properly, I look on it as a substitute for a partner check.
 GrahamD 21 Sep 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

> Sorry, probably being thick (or missing a joke?) but how do you NOT clip in to an autobelay? This is a genuine question as I don't climb inside much and used autobelays for the first time recently.

I don't know exactly - I wasn't there. Just saw her in hospital afterwards. I think she basically just soloed an easy route thinking she was clipped in, then just let go at the top. Somewhat absent minded I'd agree.

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