UKC

First Harness

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 Jaymoe 22 Sep 2017
I'm looking to get my first harness. What brands would people recommend? budget £65
 LastBoyScout 22 Sep 2017
In reply to Jaymoe:

There are no "bad" harnesses - they all have to pass the same standards.

What you get needs to do 2 things - firstly fit you and secondly match the type of climbing you'll be doing.

Do try several on and see what's comfortable - most shops will have a rope so you can sit in them. The main bit to check is that the belay loop at the front isn't under tension and pulling the waist belt down when you're standing up normally.

If you're planning on just doing walls, then there's not much point getting something with lots of gear loops - if you're planning on using it for mountaineering, then padding is less important. The main thing I look for in a harness is twin buckles at the front/floating belay loop, so you can centralise the belay loop and the padding round your back ends up where it should be.

Beyond that, £65 will get you a good, all-round harness, so buy the one you like the look of.
 olddirtydoggy 22 Sep 2017
In reply to Jaymoe:

There are some great package deals fo starters. Mammut do belay device, harness and screwgate for a good deal around your price on a good day.
 TobyA 22 Sep 2017
In reply to Jaymoe:

What the boy scout said! Your first harness might not be perfect but by the time you have worked out what you want different, it'll be time to buy a new one.

Make sure it fits and buy it from a proper shop or website and you go wrong.
In reply to Jaymoe:

Regarding Last Boy Scouts point about the belay loop, I had to try on pretty much all the harnesses I could find to get a belay loop big enough for my frame (6'4' and a long slab torso!)

I settled on the DMM Mithril. It's got 4 loops and adjustable leg loops. It's seen me through weekly trips to the gym, my first year of trad, and a spot of late winter mountaineering in Skye. Love it
OP Jaymoe 26 Sep 2017
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Cheers fellas, I'm just wanting something that isn't a crappy hire harness for when I wall climb each week. Not in need of a kit as I have picked everything else up but a harness due to preferring bouldering over rope climbing.

I've tried the Petzl Corax which i found pretty good, apart from sometimes it got a bit pinchy around the inside leg if it wasnt adjusted properly or done up a bit too tight. Is this the case with most harnesses? If so I might go with that as i know its a decent harness for what i need at a decent price too!
 proandras 26 Sep 2017

Only one advice regardless of brands:
Choose one with a back cargo loop! Times will come when your shoes, rainproof jacket, bottle, etc. should hang there
Post edited at 11:51
 tjin 26 Sep 2017
In reply to Jaymoe:

I think the Petzl Corax is a pretty good choice, very adjustable in waste and leg loops, has everything (gearloops, iceclippers lots, etc) so can still be used if you plan to do more later and inexpensive. Not the lightest, smallest or comfortable, however a good all rounder.

Leg loop should be adjusted that you can slip your hand between the legloop and your leg.
 JohnO1978 26 Sep 2017
In reply to Jaymoe:

Cant go wrong with a Black Diamond Momentum, try one on first though. I have had one for about 9 years now and its a great all rounder and within your budget.
 d_b 26 Sep 2017
In reply to proandras:

Some people disagree.

https://andy-kirkpatrick.com/cragmanship/view/harness_real_estate_the_rear_...

I clip a pair of trainers to mine but would hesitate before hanging something hard like a water bottle from it.
OP Jaymoe 26 Sep 2017
In reply to tjin:

This was probably where i was going wrong then, as i was doing mine up tight, but not too tight. I started out doing them up like this, but became a bit paranoid about them being too loose...
 spenser 27 Sep 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:
I prefer harnesses with no rear gear loop and bigger forward loops. I really like the Edelrid harneses (I think mine is the Orion, would buy again quite happily), having been on the hunt for something comfy last year I wouldn't buy a new model of harness. (to me) without first hang testing it.

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