/ DMM Dragon 2's most useful sizes

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L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
What are the most useful sizes for DMM Dragon 2 cams in your experience?

I had to join this site because I tend to like your UK gear better than the U.S. stuff! Thanks in advance.
Kevster - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

Hte to say it, what size crack do you usually find on the climbs you frequent?
Greasy Prusiks on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

What rock are we talking about?
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

This forum is just like MP! I was hoping to get a general answer. For example I feel as though totem cams are best for smaller placements, camalots for larger, mastercams for smaller.

If you must know in order to give a general answer I mostly climb granite. Sometimes I climb soft desert sandstone.
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Just for example I feel as though totem cams are best for smaller placements, camalots for larger, mastercams for smaller. I feel like every cam shines in certain sizes.

If you must know, I generally find myself either placing larger cams or micro cams.
Kevster - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

On uk granite I find sizes 1 2 and 3 the most useful. Which is purple green and red. Larger sizes cam be a bit skittish, and smaller I have some cz ones and WC zeros which offer a better range. Let's not forget in the UK on granite then nuts also tend to fill the gaps too. We have few staight splitter cracks from my experience.
But I should say, I've never owned totem cams, or master cams. Or used either more than once or twice.
I should also say that I learned with and had a rack of passive gear well before I got a full set of cams. So I view cams as a compliment rather than mainstay.

Dragons compare to camalots quite a lot.

Have fun, I suspect I miss interpreted your initial post btw.
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to Kevster:

No worries, it was probably how I wrote it.

I got cams and nuts at the same time. I feel more confident in my placements with passive gear, but I like the speed of placement with cams. Thank you for the very helpful reply.
DubyaJamesDubya - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

If I had to choose only two cams; purple and red.
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Now that is the kind of answer I was hoping for. Thank you very much!
Lizard Ollie - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

For me the most useful of the dragons are the green and purple (size 2 and 1, resepectively). Recently though I've found myself needing something a bit smaller quite a lot so maybe a purchase of the silver size 0 is on the horizon...

Ollie
Greasy Prusiks on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

Personally I find a 2.5 really useful on granite.
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I don't see that dragon cams come in 2.5, are you referring to crack size in inches?
Post edited at 21:42
Greasy Prusiks on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

Sorry I'm thinking in wild country numbers, it's been a long day.

I mean a number 3 dragon (red).
L illinoisbrah99 - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

No problem, these reviews are really helping a lot. Not many seems to use UK gear in the states except me and I generally like it better.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99: over all rock types the green dragon / Camealot is the most commonly placed cam imo. So you should defo get this one, the other should probably be either two sizes up or down depending on your rock type and if you intend to carry hexes. Generally two sizes up just about overlaps two sizes down. Without hexes I would tend to think you want a green and gold. With hexes perhaps get one size either way of the green depending on what size cracks you climb most that you think you’ll need to protect with a cam and your passive gear wouldn’t work in..
routrax - on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

Purple, green and red get the most use on my rack.
But it's so subjective to where you are that having only 2 or 3 would be useful only in certain places.

I'd just buy all of them! (as i did) and then you're covered
Wayne S - on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

It might be worth noting that Dragon cams (and new WC twin axel friends) pretty much mirror (copy!!?) black diamond Camalot sizing. So in BD sizes I would say most used generally would be 0.5, 0.75 and 1 (green, red, gold). Though some rock types might be 0.75, 1 and 2. Worth remembering that totems go to orange now which is BD #2 so if you like totems, green, red and orange!
John Clinch (Ampthill) - on 24 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

I would say green and gold as well.

But that doesn't really mean anything

I think 3 or 4 makes more sense ideally 6 or 7

bpmclimb on 25 Sep 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

I've had a full set of Dragons (up to size 5) for quite a few years. I reckon I've used them on at least a thousand routes, and (surprise, surprise) it probably comes out about even. If I "really must" pick one size only, based on number of placements, it would be the little blue 00. If I had to pick one I place least, it would be the big blue 5. But there's not much in it. If I climbed more on grit, and less on limestone, it might be the other way round.

Some questions simply don't have meaningful general answers, and really badly wanting one doesn't change the fact
L illinoisbrah99 - on 27 Sep 2017
In reply to routrax:

I did buy them all I'm moving and traveling S. America for 1 year starting in February and am trying to put together an ideal rack for it. I really appreciate the feedback.
Violinist - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

My 0 gets a lot of use. Though tbh I seem to place more hexes on granite than anything else. Much to the amusement of some of my partners...
Deadeye - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to illinoisbrah99:

I'd take 1.5 and 2.5
Smaller you can usually get wires; bigger you can jam

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