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Another week rolls by, and we are now firmly in the season of Autumn. Hopefully you've worked out cunning schemes to work around the weather and tick off some of the many goals listed below?
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (?) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (x) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Regular shoulder rehab (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=671293
AlanLittle: Solid week, great to hear its coming together.
Tom Green: Nice one with first 555 tick- sounds like they are a realistic set of goals. How often is “regular”? (it’s also good to be specific…)
guy127917: have a great week
mrchewy: Great to hear progress on your project and that you are making adjustments to get it done. What was the driver behind trying veganism? It’s funny how different diets work totally differently for different people.
Si dH: What does ‘Sent x’ mean for boulder routes? I like that you list Sol as your partner
TheFasting: Nice work sending Hollywood, and setting your PB for pull-ups!
Dandan82: Nice to see progress on the TRX exercises- when/how do you progress further (weight belt, increase ROM, alter the exercises etc)?
AllySmith: So did you manage to get the first tick of your 555 campaign on Monday evening?
hms: Sounds like getting all the wye valley routes done in a day is going to be quite the challenge (and achievement)!
the sheep: Sounds sensible to cut running temporarily- do you think it was the increased mileage that caused the flareup?
AJM: I might be being dense- which 555 goal does Parklife tick off for you (“another fb7”) ?
biscuit: Activity levels looking up nicely- with a reasonable diet that should get you to your bf goal fairly quickly. Did you get out on the new bike this week?
planet marshall: Do you plan out how/when you think you’re going to fit all those sessions in at the beginning of the week?
snoop6060: good luck with the 7c goal, let us know how it goes. And please post van pictures
annak: Well it’s good to find out that you can suck it up and perform when it matters even with illness etc, though the aftermath doesn’t sound ideal.
Just Tintin: From your 555 goals, October is going to be pretty busy…
AWOL: Tyler and Mattrm must be too busy doing their press-ups to post...
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (?) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (x) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Regular shoulder rehab (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=671293
AlanLittle: Solid week, great to hear its coming together.
Tom Green: Nice one with first 555 tick- sounds like they are a realistic set of goals. How often is “regular”? (it’s also good to be specific…)
guy127917: have a great week
mrchewy: Great to hear progress on your project and that you are making adjustments to get it done. What was the driver behind trying veganism? It’s funny how different diets work totally differently for different people.
Si dH: What does ‘Sent x’ mean for boulder routes? I like that you list Sol as your partner
TheFasting: Nice work sending Hollywood, and setting your PB for pull-ups!
Dandan82: Nice to see progress on the TRX exercises- when/how do you progress further (weight belt, increase ROM, alter the exercises etc)?
AllySmith: So did you manage to get the first tick of your 555 campaign on Monday evening?
hms: Sounds like getting all the wye valley routes done in a day is going to be quite the challenge (and achievement)!
the sheep: Sounds sensible to cut running temporarily- do you think it was the increased mileage that caused the flareup?
AJM: I might be being dense- which 555 goal does Parklife tick off for you (“another fb7”) ?
biscuit: Activity levels looking up nicely- with a reasonable diet that should get you to your bf goal fairly quickly. Did you get out on the new bike this week?
planet marshall: Do you plan out how/when you think you’re going to fit all those sessions in at the beginning of the week?
snoop6060: good luck with the 7c goal, let us know how it goes. And please post van pictures
annak: Well it’s good to find out that you can suck it up and perform when it matters even with illness etc, though the aftermath doesn’t sound ideal.
Just Tintin: From your 555 goals, October is going to be pretty busy…
AWOL: Tyler and Mattrm must be too busy doing their press-ups to post...
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Not so solid this week, sadly.
STG (Sept): ukb Berchtesgaden Expedition.
MTG (Oct): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Missed most of the week's planned training sessions due to illness, and a weekend of perfect climbing weather, the first one for a month. Trying not to panic about this destroying any chance I may have of success on Kalymnos.
M: rest
T: Beastmaker max hangs in the morning before work.
W: Had a cold, feeling pretty lousy so skipped my usual Wednesday evening routes session at the wall.
T: Beastmaker max hangs to compensate for yesterday's missed wall session. Still feeling lousy, but I work on the -
dubious - theory that the forearm flexors are so tiny they can't possibly put enough general load on the body to compromise the immune system.
F: Finally had to admit I'm properly ill. Spent the day in bed.
S: ditto
S: Watched Edinburgh semis while sitting around coughing, drinking ginger tea & snorting aspirin (I have a sad old git crush on Jain Kim)
Struggled with temptation to go to the wall in the evening, but eventually conceded I'm really not fully healthy again yet and an early night will do more good. Sneaking a few sets of fingerboard repeaters in before bed though.
Thanks Guy. Not so solid this week, sadly.
STG (Sept): ukb Berchtesgaden Expedition.
MTG (Oct): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Missed most of the week's planned training sessions due to illness, and a weekend of perfect climbing weather, the first one for a month. Trying not to panic about this destroying any chance I may have of success on Kalymnos.
M: rest
T: Beastmaker max hangs in the morning before work.
W: Had a cold, feeling pretty lousy so skipped my usual Wednesday evening routes session at the wall.
T: Beastmaker max hangs to compensate for yesterday's missed wall session. Still feeling lousy, but I work on the -
dubious - theory that the forearm flexors are so tiny they can't possibly put enough general load on the body to compromise the immune system.
F: Finally had to admit I'm properly ill. Spent the day in bed.
S: ditto
S: Watched Edinburgh semis while sitting around coughing, drinking ginger tea & snorting aspirin (I have a sad old git crush on Jain Kim)
Struggled with temptation to go to the wall in the evening, but eventually conceded I'm really not fully healthy again yet and an early night will do more good. Sneaking a few sets of fingerboard repeaters in before bed though.
Post edited at 19:59
In reply to guy127917:
That's the one - by fb7 I mean Font 7 i.e 7A. Terminology!
Monday I've already reported. The rest of the week started pretty well with 2 good training sessions. I tried 2on1off which was intense but not I don't think quite the right thing - my xonxoff sessions are already basically at limit so I had to drop the intensity for this which isn't quite the intent. I did a 2on2off which felt like the living end and feels like the right thing to really push onwards these last few weeks. Tore a bit of a flapper in my pinkie though.
Weekend things went downhill a bit. Due to faff, changing forecasts, lack of partners and lack of energy I failed to get out yesterday. Apparently the swell was up a bit anyway but still a shame. I did a random selection of pull-ups and pushups and the like instead which was unstructured but has left me aching today so is bound to have done something.
My other concern this weekend is my lower back, which is getting quite sore from child wrangling. I'd naively assumed that being fairly fit and healthy and doing steep climbing should have prepared my lower back for carrying and bouncing children but it turns out not. Being doubly careful and looking forwards to a rest day on Tuesday when he goes to nursery.
Not sure whether I'll do anything this evening. Depends on how bedtime goes I reckon. Possibly avoid the foc regardless to give the skin time to recover a bit more (I'll need tape anyway, but best be doubly sure).
Hoping to do good training this week and get out the weekend - there's a dbf bolting workshop I think and maybe also some dws...?
> AJM: I might be being dense- which 555 goal does Parklife tick off for you (“another fb7”) ?
That's the one - by fb7 I mean Font 7 i.e 7A. Terminology!
Monday I've already reported. The rest of the week started pretty well with 2 good training sessions. I tried 2on1off which was intense but not I don't think quite the right thing - my xonxoff sessions are already basically at limit so I had to drop the intensity for this which isn't quite the intent. I did a 2on2off which felt like the living end and feels like the right thing to really push onwards these last few weeks. Tore a bit of a flapper in my pinkie though.
Weekend things went downhill a bit. Due to faff, changing forecasts, lack of partners and lack of energy I failed to get out yesterday. Apparently the swell was up a bit anyway but still a shame. I did a random selection of pull-ups and pushups and the like instead which was unstructured but has left me aching today so is bound to have done something.
My other concern this weekend is my lower back, which is getting quite sore from child wrangling. I'd naively assumed that being fairly fit and healthy and doing steep climbing should have prepared my lower back for carrying and bouncing children but it turns out not. Being doubly careful and looking forwards to a rest day on Tuesday when he goes to nursery.
Not sure whether I'll do anything this evening. Depends on how bedtime goes I reckon. Possibly avoid the foc regardless to give the skin time to recover a bit more (I'll need tape anyway, but best be doubly sure).
Hoping to do good training this week and get out the weekend - there's a dbf bolting workshop I think and maybe also some dws...?
In reply to AJM:
Some crunches and pushups and stuff. Not very much, but better than nothing...
> Not sure whether I'll do anything this evening. Depends on how bedtime goes I reckon. Possibly avoid the foc regardless to give the skin time to recover a bit more (I'll need tape anyway, but best be doubly sure).
Some crunches and pushups and stuff. Not very much, but better than nothing...
In reply to AlanLittle:
... including as-many-as-possible 5/5 repeaters on an 18mm edge. Don't recall where I picked this up from, but I've been doing it every few months as a benchmark for a while. 20 reps today vs 15 in May, so something is clearly working.
> Sneaking a few sets of fingerboard repeaters in before bed though.
... including as-many-as-possible 5/5 repeaters on an 18mm edge. Don't recall where I picked this up from, but I've been doing it every few months as a benchmark for a while. 20 reps today vs 15 in May, so something is clearly working.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Sent x is just ukc's way of denoting a worked boulder problem. So basically anything that wasn't a flash or a repeat. Similar to Lead R/P really.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: shoulders: 4 x 5 each of low rows, reverse flies and IYWs. Also added in a few prone flies after noticing them in Dan's log last week.
T: as Monday.
W: had a couple of hours bouldering at the P again. Was trying Gravity Grave but as per discussion with Tintin last week, I couldn't do the top wall.
T: rest, felt knackered, bit of sore throat coming on from intense combination of work and childcare.
F: still feeling rough but managed to get half a shoulder session in, ie half the above.
S: rest to try to kick the sore throat. Also basically hadn't slept the night before, the little one must be having a growth spurt or something...
S: feeling better fortunately as climbing was planned. Went to Ramshaw and had surprisingly good conditions. No ticks but made decent progress on Tierdrop (f7A+) and Mansize (f7A+) (which is actually 7A+ ish with good beta, not 7C.) Felt heavy but pretty strong on the shouldery move on Tierdrop, which is good, maybe the TRX is doing some good. Think both these problems would go with a bit of weight loss and good conditions.
Not a bad week except for being rough Thursday-Saturday. Enjoyed being out today. In some ways it's nice to go out for a day without any pressure as I know I'm not expecting to climb very hard at the moment.
I ate approx 15 kcal of flapjack yesterday. Might experiment with dieting a bit this week. Will be interesting to see if I can manage it without getting ill or being tired at work.
Edit re goals: the Ramshaw problems were a really good shoulder and core workout so I'm happy I got enough training done this week. I had no significant right middle finger pain on the problems I was trying, which is good, although I still can't hang it properly on some holds. Annoyingly I felt a tweak in my left ringer A3 pulley today, on a hold that should have been fairly benign. Hopefully it won't happen again.
Si
Cheers Guy. Sent x is just ukc's way of denoting a worked boulder problem. So basically anything that wasn't a flash or a repeat. Similar to Lead R/P really.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: shoulders: 4 x 5 each of low rows, reverse flies and IYWs. Also added in a few prone flies after noticing them in Dan's log last week.
T: as Monday.
W: had a couple of hours bouldering at the P again. Was trying Gravity Grave but as per discussion with Tintin last week, I couldn't do the top wall.
T: rest, felt knackered, bit of sore throat coming on from intense combination of work and childcare.
F: still feeling rough but managed to get half a shoulder session in, ie half the above.
S: rest to try to kick the sore throat. Also basically hadn't slept the night before, the little one must be having a growth spurt or something...
S: feeling better fortunately as climbing was planned. Went to Ramshaw and had surprisingly good conditions. No ticks but made decent progress on Tierdrop (f7A+) and Mansize (f7A+) (which is actually 7A+ ish with good beta, not 7C.) Felt heavy but pretty strong on the shouldery move on Tierdrop, which is good, maybe the TRX is doing some good. Think both these problems would go with a bit of weight loss and good conditions.
Not a bad week except for being rough Thursday-Saturday. Enjoyed being out today. In some ways it's nice to go out for a day without any pressure as I know I'm not expecting to climb very hard at the moment.
I ate approx 15 kcal of flapjack yesterday. Might experiment with dieting a bit this week. Will be interesting to see if I can manage it without getting ill or being tired at work.
Edit re goals: the Ramshaw problems were a really good shoulder and core workout so I'm happy I got enough training done this week. I had no significant right middle finger pain on the problems I was trying, which is good, although I still can't hang it properly on some holds. Annoyingly I felt a tweak in my left ringer A3 pulley today, on a hold that should have been fairly benign. Hopefully it won't happen again.
Si
Post edited at 21:27
In reply to AJM:
I have just this evening been flying Sol around the kitchen a bit and have felt my shoulder tweak. He only weighs just over 4 kg at the moment... will have to be careful!
> My other concern this weekend is my lower back, which is getting quite sore from child wrangling. I'd naively assumed that being fairly fit and healthy and doing steep climbing should have prepared my lower back for carrying and bouncing children but it turns out not. Being doubly careful and looking forwards to a rest day on Tuesday when he goes to nursery.
I have just this evening been flying Sol around the kitchen a bit and have felt my shoulder tweak. He only weighs just over 4 kg at the moment... will have to be careful!
Post edited at 21:30
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for this Guy, you're a star. Veganism? My new landlady is vegan in the house and vegetarian everywhere else, so no cooking bacon in the house. Seemed the right time to try again. Nothing to do with cruelty to animals, I did own a few sheep for a while, but I thought it would fit in with my life okay. Seems my body is not so keen.
Struggling with a tweaked muscle in my lower left back and the left shoulder impingement.
Mon - Rest Day
Tue - Paul's board. 30deg and worked hard moves on tiny feet and bigger holds than Project 555.
Wed - Rest Day
Thu - Paul's board. 5deg and the same tiny feet but used the smallest Alex Fry wooden holds on there, to do similar moves going rightwards as I did on Tue. Fingers got a roasting.
Fri - Proper sore from the ladder work at work.
Sat - Stretching first thing as the right knee had ballooned up and the back was tight. Eased off quickly enough.
Sun - Rubicon. Warmed up on the traverse. Belayed Gav on his first 8a. Hot fun closing. Then jumped on the project with the best frame of mind yet. Up to the last clip real easy, went to pull the rope and nothing. I thought the grigri stuck but just a mistake. Head lost it's pattern and game over. Can't even pull back on straight away, as the left shoulder impingement means one go only, then rest an hour at least. Next go was too soon, so I bailed and went and tried Miller's and Kudos. A little more solid on Kudos I guess but Miller's remains a total mystery to me, I just can't get my balance on it.
Had a great week if I'm honest but feel deflated at the moment. The impingement means I can't work the route at all and the one good go I had, and I felt so solid on it, ended after a problem out of my control.
Off to Switzerland on Friday to pick up all my gear, I can then start doing my physio for the shoulder every day again and hopefully get on top of that. There was also the usual problem of working on a big treble ladder at work and being totally knackered from hauling that around and it mashing up my back again.
Booked the ferry to France, so will be spending the month of November in Fontainbleau.
Project 555 - Trunk of Punk 7a. Rubicon.
BHAG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1
Thanks for this Guy, you're a star. Veganism? My new landlady is vegan in the house and vegetarian everywhere else, so no cooking bacon in the house. Seemed the right time to try again. Nothing to do with cruelty to animals, I did own a few sheep for a while, but I thought it would fit in with my life okay. Seems my body is not so keen.
Struggling with a tweaked muscle in my lower left back and the left shoulder impingement.
Mon - Rest Day
Tue - Paul's board. 30deg and worked hard moves on tiny feet and bigger holds than Project 555.
Wed - Rest Day
Thu - Paul's board. 5deg and the same tiny feet but used the smallest Alex Fry wooden holds on there, to do similar moves going rightwards as I did on Tue. Fingers got a roasting.
Fri - Proper sore from the ladder work at work.
Sat - Stretching first thing as the right knee had ballooned up and the back was tight. Eased off quickly enough.
Sun - Rubicon. Warmed up on the traverse. Belayed Gav on his first 8a. Hot fun closing. Then jumped on the project with the best frame of mind yet. Up to the last clip real easy, went to pull the rope and nothing. I thought the grigri stuck but just a mistake. Head lost it's pattern and game over. Can't even pull back on straight away, as the left shoulder impingement means one go only, then rest an hour at least. Next go was too soon, so I bailed and went and tried Miller's and Kudos. A little more solid on Kudos I guess but Miller's remains a total mystery to me, I just can't get my balance on it.
Had a great week if I'm honest but feel deflated at the moment. The impingement means I can't work the route at all and the one good go I had, and I felt so solid on it, ended after a problem out of my control.
Off to Switzerland on Friday to pick up all my gear, I can then start doing my physio for the shoulder every day again and hopefully get on top of that. There was also the usual problem of working on a big treble ladder at work and being totally knackered from hauling that around and it mashing up my back again.
Booked the ferry to France, so will be spending the month of November in Fontainbleau.
Project 555 - Trunk of Punk 7a. Rubicon.
BHAG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1
In reply to guy127917:
Monday:
7.5km run @ 5:10/km
Wave for 4 sets of 5 attempts on hard things, felt good.
Campus board foot on ladders 3 sets of 3x45s on/2 mins off (big, medium, medium rungs)
4x8mins on/10off Aerocap
Tuesday:
6.8km run @ 7:00/km (recovery pace)
Wednesday:
35 minutes circuit at gym
3 sets of 3x1:30 on/3 mins off ancap doubles from 6a to "7a"
4x 8 mins on 8 mins off
Thursday:
Birthday rest day (few too many beers)
Friday:
10.5km @ 5:30/min
Saturday:
Birthday BBQ rest day
Sunday:
6.1km @ 6:45/km (recovery)
2 sets of BM hangboard workout 5A and 6A
Overall not a bad week- mainly interrupted by my 30th celebrations. It felt really good to get back to structured training sessions rather than random bouldering. I felt good and strong on the wave, which is rare for me so pretty happy with that. The wave and hangs should help with v6 goal, the ancap/aerocap work is to get some fitness back for the 7a+/spain trip in 6 weeks.
The running mileage increase felt easy due to the slow pace- I'm trying to avoid injury. I'd like to get back to putting in 20 miles on the road most weeks. This week should look similar only with a max hangs instead of repeaters, and a trip to portland at the weekend (weather permitting). I also need to do more handstands, elbow rehab and general flexibility work (none last week).
Made some progress on planning goals for next year as well- shaping up for a scottish winter trip, a winter alpine trip, a big wall trip, a shortish expedition (~6000m). All exciting stuff!
Monday:
7.5km run @ 5:10/km
Wave for 4 sets of 5 attempts on hard things, felt good.
Campus board foot on ladders 3 sets of 3x45s on/2 mins off (big, medium, medium rungs)
4x8mins on/10off Aerocap
Tuesday:
6.8km run @ 7:00/km (recovery pace)
Wednesday:
35 minutes circuit at gym
3 sets of 3x1:30 on/3 mins off ancap doubles from 6a to "7a"
4x 8 mins on 8 mins off
Thursday:
Birthday rest day (few too many beers)
Friday:
10.5km @ 5:30/min
Saturday:
Birthday BBQ rest day
Sunday:
6.1km @ 6:45/km (recovery)
2 sets of BM hangboard workout 5A and 6A
Overall not a bad week- mainly interrupted by my 30th celebrations. It felt really good to get back to structured training sessions rather than random bouldering. I felt good and strong on the wave, which is rare for me so pretty happy with that. The wave and hangs should help with v6 goal, the ancap/aerocap work is to get some fitness back for the 7a+/spain trip in 6 weeks.
The running mileage increase felt easy due to the slow pace- I'm trying to avoid injury. I'd like to get back to putting in 20 miles on the road most weeks. This week should look similar only with a max hangs instead of repeaters, and a trip to portland at the weekend (weather permitting). I also need to do more handstands, elbow rehab and general flexibility work (none last week).
Made some progress on planning goals for next year as well- shaping up for a scottish winter trip, a winter alpine trip, a big wall trip, a shortish expedition (~6000m). All exciting stuff!
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - 15 pushups
T - F - Rest
S - 10 push ups
S - 30 push ups
Didn't get down the wall, so no pull-ups. If I stick with using the pull-up machine, I can take a bit of weight off, which'll make it more possible. As otherwise, it's a real push. But the pushups are going okish. Not sure if I'm on target, but I'm actually doing some which is good.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - 15 pushups
T - F - Rest
S - 10 push ups
S - 30 push ups
Didn't get down the wall, so no pull-ups. If I stick with using the pull-up machine, I can take a bit of weight off, which'll make it more possible. As otherwise, it's a real push. But the pushups are going okish. Not sure if I'm on target, but I'm actually doing some which is good.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, progression currently consists of going deeper and deeper into the movement, I filmed a few sets last week and I can still get more horizontal in the prone flys for example.
I also think that despite everything I know, I tend to go a little beyond good form to get that extra rep now and then (who doesn't?), so there is still a fair chunk of improvement to be had before I have super strict form on all reps. Some form of weight will be the logical step after that but it's a long way off for some exercises!
Not a brilliant week this week, it looks like the left arm golfer's elbow is not going to go quietly into the night...
So a few months ago, I noticed a bit of pain in the right elbow when pulling on undercuts which was a minor case of golfers elbow. I basically ignored it, aside from obviously not intentionally aggravating it with certain holds and positions, and over the last few months it has calmed down and is not longer a problem. The left elbow started to be a little sore a month or two back and I thought 'well that's fine, i'll ignore it like the right arm and it will be fine in a few weeks'.
Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I seem to have pushed this one over the edge and it's now a lot more painful than the right elbow ever was. I can feel it on most moves on the wall and I can even feel it doing certain day-to-day activities which was never the case with the right.
I'm pretty sure the cause is more straight armed climbing, which is a technique improvement, and I can completely understand that after 12 years of cranking on bent arms, the tendons are having a hard time adjusting to being loaded when straight.
Tom's advice was to cut all sessions to half their length this week and 3/4 next week, but I'm not sure that's going to do the trick here, I did a couple of half sessions this week and it was generally detrimental to the elbow, I think more significant rest might be needed.
On the plus side, my iffy finger is loving not being thrown at the woody twice a week so it's feeling great!
This means the 555 goals have to take a back seat, i'm not going to push it in Margalef if the elbow is still iffy, it's a pain to maybe lose another holiday opportunity to climb hard, but i'm here for the long game, I can wait until next year.
Normal goals are on hold too until I can get a handle on what I can and can't do to improve this issue. I'll try to find a level that works the tendon but doesn't aggravate it too much, I did a half session of 2 on 1 off yesterday at only 6c+ and that doesn't seem to have caused any issues.
I might even break out the old Flexbar if I get really desperate!
> Dandan82: Nice to see progress on the TRX exercises- when/how do you progress further (weight belt, increase ROM, alter the exercises etc)?
Thanks Guy, progression currently consists of going deeper and deeper into the movement, I filmed a few sets last week and I can still get more horizontal in the prone flys for example.
I also think that despite everything I know, I tend to go a little beyond good form to get that extra rep now and then (who doesn't?), so there is still a fair chunk of improvement to be had before I have super strict form on all reps. Some form of weight will be the logical step after that but it's a long way off for some exercises!
Not a brilliant week this week, it looks like the left arm golfer's elbow is not going to go quietly into the night...
So a few months ago, I noticed a bit of pain in the right elbow when pulling on undercuts which was a minor case of golfers elbow. I basically ignored it, aside from obviously not intentionally aggravating it with certain holds and positions, and over the last few months it has calmed down and is not longer a problem. The left elbow started to be a little sore a month or two back and I thought 'well that's fine, i'll ignore it like the right arm and it will be fine in a few weeks'.
Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I seem to have pushed this one over the edge and it's now a lot more painful than the right elbow ever was. I can feel it on most moves on the wall and I can even feel it doing certain day-to-day activities which was never the case with the right.
I'm pretty sure the cause is more straight armed climbing, which is a technique improvement, and I can completely understand that after 12 years of cranking on bent arms, the tendons are having a hard time adjusting to being loaded when straight.
Tom's advice was to cut all sessions to half their length this week and 3/4 next week, but I'm not sure that's going to do the trick here, I did a couple of half sessions this week and it was generally detrimental to the elbow, I think more significant rest might be needed.
On the plus side, my iffy finger is loving not being thrown at the woody twice a week so it's feeling great!
This means the 555 goals have to take a back seat, i'm not going to push it in Margalef if the elbow is still iffy, it's a pain to maybe lose another holiday opportunity to climb hard, but i'm here for the long game, I can wait until next year.
Normal goals are on hold too until I can get a handle on what I can and can't do to improve this issue. I'll try to find a level that works the tendon but doesn't aggravate it too much, I did a half session of 2 on 1 off yesterday at only 6c+ and that doesn't seem to have caused any issues.
I might even break out the old Flexbar if I get really desperate!
2
In reply to guy127917:
Mon-wed: no climbing, resting my wrist.
Thurs-- flew kalymnos, arrived late.
Friday- did some easy stuff as was tired.
Sat - went arginonta red well, did some easy stuff with bex. Tried the route firewall which gets 7b+ but looked flashable as the crux is obvious and fairly short. Had a crack but my wrist was not having the slopey pinch you use for the crux, so slumped off. It's rubbish so needs to be squeezed proper. Did the crux without that hold but a weird way, the rest was straightforward. Be a good first 7b+ for someone this. It's basically 6a --> v3/4 -->6b+/c.
Sunday - rest, wrist was hurting a bit so didn't want to risk it.
To be honest if theres is a place on earth I'd want to be if injured on a climbing trip, it's kalymnos. So not gonna sulk. Plenty of 6s I've not done before so will just climb them for now. Gploin chulilla in a few weeks which is looking a bit touch and go. Whatever happens I can't be injured in nov as I'm going red rocks.
As for the van, I'll post a pic when it gets it it's new roof on my return
Mon-wed: no climbing, resting my wrist.
Thurs-- flew kalymnos, arrived late.
Friday- did some easy stuff as was tired.
Sat - went arginonta red well, did some easy stuff with bex. Tried the route firewall which gets 7b+ but looked flashable as the crux is obvious and fairly short. Had a crack but my wrist was not having the slopey pinch you use for the crux, so slumped off. It's rubbish so needs to be squeezed proper. Did the crux without that hold but a weird way, the rest was straightforward. Be a good first 7b+ for someone this. It's basically 6a --> v3/4 -->6b+/c.
Sunday - rest, wrist was hurting a bit so didn't want to risk it.
To be honest if theres is a place on earth I'd want to be if injured on a climbing trip, it's kalymnos. So not gonna sulk. Plenty of 6s I've not done before so will just climb them for now. Gploin chulilla in a few weeks which is looking a bit touch and go. Whatever happens I can't be injured in nov as I'm going red rocks.
As for the van, I'll post a pic when it gets it it's new roof on my return
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
Been focussing on other things for a little while but I reckon it's time to start putting in an appearance on fitclub again. I did have some goals that I want to achieve by the beginning of November which I have been working towards so I will use them for my 555 goals:
Lead 4 of my DNFs or dogged climbs from the past year on Portland (I did two the other weekend and created a couple of new ones), also complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session, boulder a V5 at the climbing wall.
Mon: campus ladders - 3 x 45s on / 60 sec off (5 mins rest), 8mins on/ 8 mins off aerocap on lead walls.
Tues: run in the morning - trying to keep heart rate lower than 170
Weds: Circuits at gym in morning. Climbing on the wave and managed 4 moves. Aiming to complete the route this week. 8mins on/ 8 mins off aerocap. Almost managed the 7a - will try again tonight.
Thurs: bfs birthday
Friday - Sunday: Portsmouth - went for a run by the sea yesterday, heart rate up to 185 on a very relaxed run so try to figure out why it's so high (is it high?)
Hi Guy,
Been focussing on other things for a little while but I reckon it's time to start putting in an appearance on fitclub again. I did have some goals that I want to achieve by the beginning of November which I have been working towards so I will use them for my 555 goals:
Lead 4 of my DNFs or dogged climbs from the past year on Portland (I did two the other weekend and created a couple of new ones), also complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session, boulder a V5 at the climbing wall.
Mon: campus ladders - 3 x 45s on / 60 sec off (5 mins rest), 8mins on/ 8 mins off aerocap on lead walls.
Tues: run in the morning - trying to keep heart rate lower than 170
Weds: Circuits at gym in morning. Climbing on the wave and managed 4 moves. Aiming to complete the route this week. 8mins on/ 8 mins off aerocap. Almost managed the 7a - will try again tonight.
Thurs: bfs birthday
Friday - Sunday: Portsmouth - went for a run by the sea yesterday, heart rate up to 185 on a very relaxed run so try to figure out why it's so high (is it high?)
1
In reply to guy127917:
Well stalked! After Monday everything got very busy - I hope to do better this week.
Heading back to the Tor tonight - hopefully with a belayer so i can get on one of the link-ups - otherwise billy-no-mates will have to start climbing with Mr Shunt again.
Week 39
M - Tor - after work lantern session. Ticked Ben's Roof Extension first go of the evening, despite some fumbling of the first pocket on ben’s (7C+ version with knees). Had a good rest, and with more pads than previously, committed to doing the scary heel-toe on Cave Problem without spotters. Video of both here: vimeo.com/234913977 Tried Sympathy in Choice for a bit, but was past best by then.
T - Minor shoulder grumbles from bouldering – theraband and piddly dumbbell exercises.
W - Work daytrip to London = Nothing.
T - Nothing - FB down because of decorators.
F - 20s style flapper party
S - 1st wedding (of 3) – 2 hours dancefloor aerobic intervals (AJM – even with the disappointing lack of happy hardcore, Rachael was taken aback by my wedding dance moves…)
S - Mildly hanging – Blue/Green/Skills area combo at Mabie – 10 miles-ish.
> AllySmith: So did you manage to get the first tick of your 555 campaign on Monday evening?
Well stalked! After Monday everything got very busy - I hope to do better this week.
Heading back to the Tor tonight - hopefully with a belayer so i can get on one of the link-ups - otherwise billy-no-mates will have to start climbing with Mr Shunt again.
Week 39
M - Tor - after work lantern session. Ticked Ben's Roof Extension first go of the evening, despite some fumbling of the first pocket on ben’s (7C+ version with knees). Had a good rest, and with more pads than previously, committed to doing the scary heel-toe on Cave Problem without spotters. Video of both here: vimeo.com/234913977 Tried Sympathy in Choice for a bit, but was past best by then.
T - Minor shoulder grumbles from bouldering – theraband and piddly dumbbell exercises.
W - Work daytrip to London = Nothing.
T - Nothing - FB down because of decorators.
F - 20s style flapper party
S - 1st wedding (of 3) – 2 hours dancefloor aerobic intervals (AJM – even with the disappointing lack of happy hardcore, Rachael was taken aback by my wedding dance moves…)
S - Mildly hanging – Blue/Green/Skills area combo at Mabie – 10 miles-ish.
Post edited at 08:59
In reply to Ally Smith:
It's ambiguous, perhaps deliberately, whether "taken aback" means "impressed" or "appaled"
!
> AJM – even with the disappointing lack of happy hardcore, Rachael was taken aback by my wedding dance moves…)
It's ambiguous, perhaps deliberately, whether "taken aback" means "impressed" or "appaled"
!
1
In reply to guy127917:
Work went whoosh this week, so wall sessions got canned.
M - cycle commute, 2 miles walking
T - cycle commute, long prehab session in evening - theraband, weights, TRX
W - cycle commute, FB 7/3/6/1 x10 on various holds, 10 min rest, 7/3/6/1 x10 on half crimp with assist (can't remember what it was though)
T - cycle commute. Wall session canned cos of day from hell at work.
F - 2 miles urban walking. FB warm-up then 1 arm swaps. Then tried some pull-ups and got cross.
S - Armistice, TR on E6. Reckon this deserves a 555 tick as better than shunting. Have most of the moves, 1 short hard seq still OS. Weirdly it involves a really high right foot and rock-over, just like Storm Warning, so good practise on something I'm not great at.
S - DIY - painting a ceiling must count as training, surely? Then FB warm-up, followed by 6 lots of 5/10/5/3 on 20mm using 4 and 3 finger drag. Increased weight gradually to 16kg but then fingers were starting to whinge so going higher seemed risky. 7/3/6/1 x10 on 20mm with +5kg assist as aerocap end to the session.
So first 555 tick for me as my Storm Warning attempt last weekend probably doesn't cut it. Realistically my chances of getting back to Brean in the next few weeks are poor, but the other goals are still good to go.
Work went whoosh this week, so wall sessions got canned.
M - cycle commute, 2 miles walking
T - cycle commute, long prehab session in evening - theraband, weights, TRX
W - cycle commute, FB 7/3/6/1 x10 on various holds, 10 min rest, 7/3/6/1 x10 on half crimp with assist (can't remember what it was though)
T - cycle commute. Wall session canned cos of day from hell at work.
F - 2 miles urban walking. FB warm-up then 1 arm swaps. Then tried some pull-ups and got cross.
S - Armistice, TR on E6. Reckon this deserves a 555 tick as better than shunting. Have most of the moves, 1 short hard seq still OS. Weirdly it involves a really high right foot and rock-over, just like Storm Warning, so good practise on something I'm not great at.
S - DIY - painting a ceiling must count as training, surely? Then FB warm-up, followed by 6 lots of 5/10/5/3 on 20mm using 4 and 3 finger drag. Increased weight gradually to 16kg but then fingers were starting to whinge so going higher seemed risky. 7/3/6/1 x10 on 20mm with +5kg assist as aerocap end to the session.
So first 555 tick for me as my Storm Warning attempt last weekend probably doesn't cut it. Realistically my chances of getting back to Brean in the next few weeks are poor, but the other goals are still good to go.
Post edited at 09:45
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, just a simple case of doing too much and not stopping when it hurt, did it on a Friday evening run after a busy week and cycling home. I was knackered but went out and did 8km on trails whilst the eldest was swim training. Was flat footed so all the impact was going straight into the heel but carried on rather than easing off. All my own fault.
Anyway not a bad week gone by.
Monday, 1km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 40 minute arms and core work in the evening
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim bringing up mthe year target of 150km. Need to review and set a new target
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 43km cycle home
Saturday, 5k gentle run, no pain so all good
Sunday rest.
> the sheep: Sounds sensible to cut running temporarily- do you think it was the increased mileage that caused the flareup?
Cheers, just a simple case of doing too much and not stopping when it hurt, did it on a Friday evening run after a busy week and cycling home. I was knackered but went out and did 8km on trails whilst the eldest was swim training. Was flat footed so all the impact was going straight into the heel but carried on rather than easing off. All my own fault.
Anyway not a bad week gone by.
Monday, 1km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 40 minute arms and core work in the evening
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim bringing up mthe year target of 150km. Need to review and set a new target
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 43km cycle home
Saturday, 5k gentle run, no pain so all good
Sunday rest.
In reply to guy127917:
Missed the last couple of weeks, but I didn't get much done anyway!
Week of inactivity bar one track session 800m warmup, 13x300m with 100m recoveries, 800m cooldown
m - nothing
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - nothing
f - ran to and from work ~10k
s - ran to Bradford parkrun, did the parkrun and ran home ~18k
s - 4k run
m - 2hrs gym - drills, plyometrics, core and circuits
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - ran to work - 5k
f - ran home from work - 6k
s - Horton Park parkrun - 5k, then coached my GF to a 10k PB
s - Ilkley Skyline ~36k off road.
I've not really put in the training required for my first marathon in October, but after yesterday I feel that I'll at least be able to finish it.
Missed the last couple of weeks, but I didn't get much done anyway!
Week of inactivity bar one track session 800m warmup, 13x300m with 100m recoveries, 800m cooldown
m - nothing
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - nothing
f - ran to and from work ~10k
s - ran to Bradford parkrun, did the parkrun and ran home ~18k
s - 4k run
m - 2hrs gym - drills, plyometrics, core and circuits
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - ran to work - 5k
f - ran home from work - 6k
s - Horton Park parkrun - 5k, then coached my GF to a 10k PB
s - Ilkley Skyline ~36k off road.
I've not really put in the training required for my first marathon in October, but after yesterday I feel that I'll at least be able to finish it.
In reply to guy127917:
T: Went bouldering, and sent my "project" (because I failed on it last time) Fredrik Åkare (f6A). A cool mantel-like move on a small ledge before you reach up to top out. Finally getting some mileage out of all that bench pressing.
Also onsighted my second ever f5+ Utrolig (f5+).
W: Did squats (80 kg), bench press (70 kg) and deadlifts (90 kg) 3 sets of 5. Going to increase the sets of 3 sets of 8 and then 3x10, then add weight. My gym apparently only has 10 kg increments...
In between my weighted pull-ups (4 sets of 1 with 35 kg) I had some spare time so I took my harness on and actually "flashed" a 6b on auto-belay! Not exactly a PR in that sense, but very nice to know confidence-wise that I can climb up a 6b. My lead flash PR right now is 5c+.
Weekend: I climbed Uranostind via the south ridge, my first real alpine climb. 2 km knife-edge ridge. Some climbing up to UIAA 3/4 according to what I've read (I think it was more like 3). Spent a bit too long because we pitched out a bit too much and a guy ended up leading a lot of it who hadn't read up on the route like I had. A lot of snow on it, but just brushing it away to place pro worked well. Heard some parties turned around due to that. Also got caught in dense fog and near gale winds and benighted. A chilly experience.
T: Went bouldering, and sent my "project" (because I failed on it last time) Fredrik Åkare (f6A). A cool mantel-like move on a small ledge before you reach up to top out. Finally getting some mileage out of all that bench pressing.
Also onsighted my second ever f5+ Utrolig (f5+).
W: Did squats (80 kg), bench press (70 kg) and deadlifts (90 kg) 3 sets of 5. Going to increase the sets of 3 sets of 8 and then 3x10, then add weight. My gym apparently only has 10 kg increments...
In between my weighted pull-ups (4 sets of 1 with 35 kg) I had some spare time so I took my harness on and actually "flashed" a 6b on auto-belay! Not exactly a PR in that sense, but very nice to know confidence-wise that I can climb up a 6b. My lead flash PR right now is 5c+.
Weekend: I climbed Uranostind via the south ridge, my first real alpine climb. 2 km knife-edge ridge. Some climbing up to UIAA 3/4 according to what I've read (I think it was more like 3). Spent a bit too long because we pitched out a bit too much and a guy ended up leading a lot of it who hadn't read up on the route like I had. A lot of snow on it, but just brushing it away to place pro worked well. Heard some parties turned around due to that. Also got caught in dense fog and near gale winds and benighted. A chilly experience.
Post edited at 16:01
2
In reply to guy127917:
I prefer to do as much of my training outdoors as possible, so preferring things like hill sprints instead of weights. So I generally look at the weather forecast for the coming week and plan when I can do outdoor sessions and go from there. Also some sessions can be combined, like trail running and strength sessions. Lately I'm finding it difficult to manage my time for trad goals, so that's something I need to work on. Too much faff and hanging around at the base of routes.
Last week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard One only
* 2 Core sessions One only
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend. One only
* 1 Lower body strength session No
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description) Yes
* 3 leads at HVS or above No
* 1 bouldering session. Yes
Extra credit - ARC session at AW Stockport. Found this really helpful so going to try for more of this.
Started out really well this week, especially managing the hill climb, but largely wasted opportunities on Friday and the weekend. Must do better.
Mon - Bouldering at Manchester Depot. Pink (League) circuit 1-16. Attempted 17 but didn't like having an audience.
Tue - Wandered up to Stanage as was a glorious day but far too late to climb. Started up Leaning Buttress Direct (HVS 5b) but the sun was setting. Retreated preserving the onsight.
Wed - 8kg Water jug carry, 300m from Kinder Reservoir to the Plateau.
Thu -
* ARC at AW Stockport. About 1 hour on the 23m routes.
* Pullups, 4x2@+20kg.
* Fingerboard Max Hangs.
- 5x12s 3 Finger Open Hand +4kg
- 5x12s Half Crimp -14kg
Fri - Beer
Sat - Rest
Sun - Trad at Roaches Upper Tier. Attempt on Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), extremely annoyed to fluff the crux by not reading the route properly, especially after feeling quite efficient on the crack. Will be back for a clean attempt.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 hill climbing session. 450m/10kg
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
* 1 ARC session
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> planet marshall: Do you plan out how/when you think you’re going to fit all those sessions in at the beginning of the week?
I prefer to do as much of my training outdoors as possible, so preferring things like hill sprints instead of weights. So I generally look at the weather forecast for the coming week and plan when I can do outdoor sessions and go from there. Also some sessions can be combined, like trail running and strength sessions. Lately I'm finding it difficult to manage my time for trad goals, so that's something I need to work on. Too much faff and hanging around at the base of routes.
Last week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard One only
* 2 Core sessions One only
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend. One only
* 1 Lower body strength session No
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description) Yes
* 3 leads at HVS or above No
* 1 bouldering session. Yes
Extra credit - ARC session at AW Stockport. Found this really helpful so going to try for more of this.
Started out really well this week, especially managing the hill climb, but largely wasted opportunities on Friday and the weekend. Must do better.
Mon - Bouldering at Manchester Depot. Pink (League) circuit 1-16. Attempted 17 but didn't like having an audience.
Tue - Wandered up to Stanage as was a glorious day but far too late to climb. Started up Leaning Buttress Direct (HVS 5b) but the sun was setting. Retreated preserving the onsight.
Wed - 8kg Water jug carry, 300m from Kinder Reservoir to the Plateau.
Thu -
* ARC at AW Stockport. About 1 hour on the 23m routes.
* Pullups, 4x2@+20kg.
* Fingerboard Max Hangs.
- 5x12s 3 Finger Open Hand +4kg
- 5x12s Half Crimp -14kg
Fri - Beer
Sat - Rest
Sun - Trad at Roaches Upper Tier. Attempt on Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), extremely annoyed to fluff the crux by not reading the route properly, especially after feeling quite efficient on the crack. Will be back for a clean attempt.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 hill climbing session. 450m/10kg
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
* 1 ARC session
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 16:34
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, thanks for the review.
After ticking a 555 goal last week, this week has been a massive anti-climax!
Working away and a couple of nights of drinking have not brought the rest of my goals any closer.
Fair point about being more specific for the shoulder goal. Now amended...
STG/555 goals:
1. Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week
2. E1 on Grit
3. E1 on Limestone
4. F6A in Font
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace (/)
This week:
M: shoulder rehab (bands)
T: excessive alcohol consumption
W: rest
T: shoulder rehab (bands)
F: trail run (hilly 5k at 5:50 average)
S: excessive alcohol consumption
S: rest
To summarise... more steps back than forward!
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight
4. 10km at 5m30s/km pace
5. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
Hi Guy, thanks for the review.
After ticking a 555 goal last week, this week has been a massive anti-climax!
Working away and a couple of nights of drinking have not brought the rest of my goals any closer.
Fair point about being more specific for the shoulder goal. Now amended...
STG/555 goals:
1. Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week
2. E1 on Grit
3. E1 on Limestone
4. F6A in Font
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace (/)
This week:
M: shoulder rehab (bands)
T: excessive alcohol consumption
W: rest
T: shoulder rehab (bands)
F: trail run (hilly 5k at 5:50 average)
S: excessive alcohol consumption
S: rest
To summarise... more steps back than forward!
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight
4. 10km at 5m30s/km pace
5. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
In reply to snoop6060:
Indeed, wish I was there. If you haven't been I recommend Gerakios for probably the best 6s on the island, if you're after an easy time. I think Crystal Line (6a) is one of the best 6as anywhere.
> To be honest if theres is a place on earth I'd want to be if injured on a climbing trip, it's kalymnos. So not gonna sulk. Plenty of 6s I've not done before so will just climb them for now.
Indeed, wish I was there. If you haven't been I recommend Gerakios for probably the best 6s on the island, if you're after an easy time. I think Crystal Line (6a) is one of the best 6as anywhere.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Been a busy week this week and nearly forgot to post.
I made the most of my last week before being back at Uni.
Mon - couple of hours on the new bike. 20+ miles? Didn't strava it.
Tue - BUK 7b+ circuit after trying new problems out first(I think, can't quite remember). Did too much bouldering and was quite tired for circuit. Finally got workable beta for circuit.
Wed - Depot - round and round on the 6a with bad feet = 6b circuit. Managed 6x doubles with 5 min rest between. Gave up due to skin issues again.
Thur - BUK - 7b+ target circuit. Progress made. Should go soon.
Fri - Trollers Gill. Good shout for the weather. Lasted until 4 ish when rain finally got us. Puntered off the finishing jug that wasn't a jug of Jim Grin on the flash. Stern warm up on a cold day. Got it second go. Had a look at the 7b/+ a couple of lines to the left. Very nice and feels like it'd go once I got the beta. The crux (big throw for a 2 finger hold) took a few goes but everything else went first time.
Sat - 41m 4500ft ascent 3.5hrs bike ride. Tired.
Sun - Chapel Head Scar. Still tired. Nothing new done but got a good pump on a few times.
Good week before it all gets busy at Uni. But trip to Chorro coming up so need to get my finger out really.
Cheers Guy. Been a busy week this week and nearly forgot to post.
I made the most of my last week before being back at Uni.
Mon - couple of hours on the new bike. 20+ miles? Didn't strava it.
Tue - BUK 7b+ circuit after trying new problems out first(I think, can't quite remember). Did too much bouldering and was quite tired for circuit. Finally got workable beta for circuit.
Wed - Depot - round and round on the 6a with bad feet = 6b circuit. Managed 6x doubles with 5 min rest between. Gave up due to skin issues again.
Thur - BUK - 7b+ target circuit. Progress made. Should go soon.
Fri - Trollers Gill. Good shout for the weather. Lasted until 4 ish when rain finally got us. Puntered off the finishing jug that wasn't a jug of Jim Grin on the flash. Stern warm up on a cold day. Got it second go. Had a look at the 7b/+ a couple of lines to the left. Very nice and feels like it'd go once I got the beta. The crux (big throw for a 2 finger hold) took a few goes but everything else went first time.
Sat - 41m 4500ft ascent 3.5hrs bike ride. Tired.
Sun - Chapel Head Scar. Still tired. Nothing new done but got a good pump on a few times.
Good week before it all gets busy at Uni. But trip to Chorro coming up so need to get my finger out really.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Nice one, not been there. It's one of the crags I somehow keep missing despite making an effort to explore new crags. The General will be happy if it does have the best 6a around. She was less than impressed yesterday when I dragged her all the way to sikati cave on the promise of the best 6b around (I made this up, of course) She took one look at the crag and was like, you are a tit . What a crag tho, can't believe I've never been before. To be fair there actually was some decent 6s in there as well in the end. Not quite hr main event mind.
Will get up to Geriakos Monday and check it out.
> Indeed, wish I was there. If you haven't been I recommend Gerakios for probably the best 6s on the island, if you're after an easy time. I think Crystal Line (6a) is one of the best 6as anywhere.
Nice one, not been there. It's one of the crags I somehow keep missing despite making an effort to explore new crags. The General will be happy if it does have the best 6a around. She was less than impressed yesterday when I dragged her all the way to sikati cave on the promise of the best 6b around (I made this up, of course) She took one look at the crag and was like, you are a tit . What a crag tho, can't believe I've never been before. To be fair there actually was some decent 6s in there as well in the end. Not quite hr main event mind.
Will get up to Geriakos Monday and check it out.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. October is indeed going to be busy especially given rubbish end to September! We nade the mistake of volunteering for the Alpkit festival last week and were allocated two really long shifts which killed the weekend a bit. I think I can get 50% of my FC555 by the deadline, 1 shortly after and then who knows!
M - coaching, routes, max push ups
T - rest
W / fingerboard and pull ups
T - Boulder forced mileage climbing unit
F - trad Stanage popular. 10*s max E1
S - 8 hours in the Alpkit kitchen in the morning . Stand up paddle boarding in the afternoon and 20
v points at Newstones evening. Particularly enjoyed Varicose (f6A+) which I made up some really funky beta for.
S - 7 hours in the Alpkit kitchen. Crashed out then snuck in a couple of laps of the old project Lower Traverse (f7A) which normally is a breeze but I was completely smashed so hard work
Thanks Guy. October is indeed going to be busy especially given rubbish end to September! We nade the mistake of volunteering for the Alpkit festival last week and were allocated two really long shifts which killed the weekend a bit. I think I can get 50% of my FC555 by the deadline, 1 shortly after and then who knows!
M - coaching, routes, max push ups
T - rest
W / fingerboard and pull ups
T - Boulder forced mileage climbing unit
F - trad Stanage popular. 10*s max E1
S - 8 hours in the Alpkit kitchen in the morning . Stand up paddle boarding in the afternoon and 20
v points at Newstones evening. Particularly enjoyed Varicose (f6A+) which I made up some really funky beta for.
S - 7 hours in the Alpkit kitchen. Crashed out then snuck in a couple of laps of the old project Lower Traverse (f7A) which normally is a breeze but I was completely smashed so hard work
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