In reply to malk:
> you'll have to go again- i keep meaning to. did you encounter any ultrarunners?
Loads of them!
> another memorable refuge was the Bonhomme - again to myself apart from a guy who briefly appeared in wellies seemingly out for an evening walk/run up from the valley..
Yes, I got there after a viewless, cold, wet ascent from Les Contamines/Nant Borrant. As wet inside my waterproofs as outside. Thankfully they had the woodburner going