UKC

Climbing around Cape town

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 DanielJ 25 Sep 2017
Heading to South Africa in late november for a family holiday. We are a bunch of people and some of us climb, some surf. All of us MTB so thats probably main outdoor activity.

How good is the climbing on Table Top (and other nearby areas). I havent done any rock this year so looking at routes in span VS-E1. Is it worth to drag full rack and rope just for max two full days? (We will have enough bagage allowance and got a rental)
I do know about Rocklands but Im injuryprone and my knee is f*cked as it is.
iusedtoclimb 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

There is loads and loads of top quality sports climbing around cape town

So unless you wanted to Trad and worried about backage allowance I would do sport climbing

iusedtoclimb 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

And if you wanted to go bit further afield go to Montagu - amazing climbing there
 Trangia 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

The climbing is brilliant! Some of the best in the world and the rock on Table Mountain is really good. It's hard sandstone with great friction, steep and exposed trad. Loads in your grade range.

As you only have two days why don't you consider hiring a guide? You won't waste time frigging around route finding, the guide will know what's in condition and importantly in the shade at what time of the day. The guide will also supply a rope and protection, helmet etc. All you will need is your rock shoes and possibly your harness.

I can strongly recommend Anthony Hall at antventure@yahoo.com local number 082 290 2937

I've used him several times and it's more like climbing with a mate than being guided. He will even let you lead if you feel you are up for it.

Great trails there for MTB too.
Rigid Raider 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

Can't advise on the climbing but be sure to go to De Noordhoek Farm Village, it's great for food and drink.
 Trangia 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Rigid Raider:

> Can't advise on the climbing but be sure to go to De Noordhoek Farm Village, it's great for food and drink.

Plus 1. Great 7 k long pristine white sand beach there too, but the sea is FREEZING! Great walking and MTB trails everywhere on Table Mountain and Silvermines
 Dave Garnett 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Trangia:

> The climbing is brilliant! Some of the best in the world and the rock on Table Mountain is really good. It's hard sandstone with great friction, steep and exposed trad. Loads in your grade range.

I agree. The big trad routes off Fountain Ledge are as good anything I've done anywhere. If you can second exposed VS, Jacob's Ladder is not to be missed.

OP DanielJ 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

Ok. Im convinced! Steep and exposed trad on superb sandstone sounds awesome.

Appreciate all kinds of info. Routes, other areas than TTM, MTB trails, where to rent bikes, where to eat and so on. We're there for two weeks.
 Colin Moody 25 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

It was a long time ago but I thought Hellfire was great, bolted sandstone.
OP DanielJ 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

How did you experience the grading there? Being somewhat rusty I'm not keen to rush into sandbags. Am I right assuming 19 is around E1?
Any more routes you recommend sub E1?
OP DanielJ 25 Sep 2017
In reply to Trangia:
Sounds perfect, Im in! Any route recommendations?

Did you do any MTB, if so where?
 Trangia 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:
My very first climb on Table Mountain was "Staircase" at Fountain Ledge

Here are a couple of pics https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.php?crag=3726&route=Staircase

Another Great route is "Africa Crag" from Africa Ledge - not difficult, but mind blowingly exposed! http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Africa/South_Africa/Cape_Town/Table_Moun...


I don't MTB but my son who lives at Noordhoek (south of Cape Town on the cape peninsula does. He goes out on the trails at Silvermines and also along and off the Contour Path around Constantia area.
Post edited at 08:26
Rigid Raider 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

Nobody has mentioned it so I will... take local advice on which bits of Cape Town are safe and which are not and keep a low, modest profile. A local guide will help you avoid problems.
 Dave Garnett 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

> How did you experience the grading there? Being somewhat rusty I'm not keen to rush into sandbags. Am I right assuming 19 is around E1?

> Any more routes you recommend sub E1?

Yes I guess 19 is about E1 but, like any new area, you need to make allowances and leave yourself a few grades in hand until you get the hang of it. The rock on TM is fantastic, as Trangia says, but the steepness and exposure is a bit of a shock when you first get on it. That experience of being puzzled as to where the route goes next and, on having the description shouted up again, being convinced you must be in the wrong place because what is being suggested is so obviously impossible at the grade (or any grade) happened to me repeatedly the first year or so I was there!

Easy warm ups might be Arrow Face (11 VDiff-ish, right under the cable station) or something on the lower buttresses (Indian Giver on Venster Buttress on the way up was a popular Severe). Africa Crag (on the buttress left of the cable station) is good too.

Good VS-HVS: Cableway Crag, Atlantic Crag, Escalator.

When I lived there I used to think of Jacob's Ladder as a scenic jugfest useful as a quick way of getting visitors to the top. I did it again last Christmas after (I was disturbed to realise) a 20-year gap with one of my oldest friends with whom I've shared many an ill-advised adventure, although it's probably fair to say that neither of us had done much for 6 months or so. Longer than that if we're honest. Knowing the geography, we decided to do it alpine style with rucksacks so that we didn't have to come back down via Fountain Ledge but could run over to and down Platteklip (you'll see how it works when you get there), in time for sundowners before dinner.

Pretty quickly we decided that we needed to cram one bag into the other so the leader could take it a bit more seriously. It must have had a lot of traffic over the last two decades to reduce the size of the holds so much and I was surprised that in all my earlier ascents I had failed to notice the possibility of falling from the long traverse into space over the roof and ending up in an inconvenient position. The juggy overhanging groove on the first pitch wasn't much fun carrying two rucksacks, either... Anyway, it was all pretty hilarious and was a very memorable day. It's always worth it to have the admiring crowds photographing you as a conquering hero when you climb over the railings at the top.

Don't let this put you off - I really was out of shape and struggled on gritstone VSs when I got back. If in doubt it's probably worth doing a few pullups before you go.

 Trangia 26 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Yes I guess 19 is about E1 but, like any new area, you need to make allowances and leave yourself a few grades in hand until you get the hang of it. The rock on TM is fantastic, as Trangia says, but the steepness and exposure is a bit of a shock when you first get on it. That experience of being puzzled as to where the route goes next and, on having the description shouted up again, being convinced you must be in the wrong place because what is being suggested is so obviously impossible at the grade (or any grade) happened to me repeatedly the first year or so I was there!

Absolutely spot on and very well put. The exposure can be mind blowing even on the "easier" climbs, and after the UK takes a bit of adjusting to. As you say as viewed from below it tends to look impossible. I remember the first time I stood on Fountain Ledge looking up at such huge overhangs, and thinking "no way can the route go up through those!", rather like standing at the base of Boulder Ruckle at Swanage getting the same feelings, but it does as the route finds "secret" ways up through them, except that its about 2 or 3 times bigger than Boulder Ruckle, accentuated by the further very steep mountainside dropping down to Cape Town below you. The same goes for "Africa Crag" see the photos., but once on it, it's sheer bliss.

To the OP, unlike the UK the routes are not polished, with no scratch marks, and with generally much less evidence that anyone has ever been up it before you, which all adds to the sense of adventure and commitment.
OP DanielJ 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

Thanks for your replies. Excellent info! And no worries, I wont rush myself into craziness... Ive never even climbed on sandstone so will for sure start easy. Steep and exposed, juggy overhanging grooves sounds superfun but for me rather unchartered territory (on trad at least)

Whats the verdict on ropes? (Havent checked rope lenghts) Ive got halfes 2*60m 8.6, 70m 9.2 and 60m 9.8.
 Trangia 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

I can't remember because we climbed on Ant's ropes, and I don't recall how long they were. They were double 9mm or 10mm. Probably 60m would suffice for most routes. Maybe Dave can help here?

Obviously it's up to you whether or not you consider hiring a guide, but it could save you a lot of time finding your way around, and finding the shade etc. Remember the sun is in the north!

Also as someone has mentioned it might be useful to have local knowledge about safer parking areas and approach routes - sadly although generally pretty rare, attacks and muggings have been on the increase on the lower slopes and summit area. That also applies to MTB areas.
Kipper 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

> Whats the verdict on ropes? (Havent checked rope lenghts) Ive got halfes 2*60m 8.6, 70m 9.2 and 60m 9.8.

60m is fine - I used to use 50m.

The one below the cable car is great (Arrow Face I think Dave reminded me above, even though I've done it about 10 time )

Loads from Fountain Ledge - Roulette?

I was back there for the first time in more than 20 years last year and common practice seems to be cable car up and abseil in to the climbs. We always walked
 Toerag 26 Sep 2017
In reply to DanielJ:

If you're touristing don't bother going to Boulders beach to see the penguins during the day - they'll all be out at sea feeding, you need to go in the evening or at dawn ideally.
 Dave Garnett 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Kipper:

> 60m is fine - I used to use 50m.

Yes, me too. 60m may be helpful for the wandering around at the top.

> Loads from Fountain Ledge - Roulette?

I'm not sure how, but I somehow missed Roulette, which I regret because the zig-zag crack is the most obvious and improbable-looking feature on wall not lacking impressive features. Still on my bucket list but I need to be climbing better than I was at Christmas, which wasn't really a climbing trip. I have done Touch and Go which is another world-class classic. Both a bit outside the scope of the OP's VS-E1 spec I think.

> I was back there for the first time in more than 20 years last year and common practice seems to be cable car up and abseil in to the climbs. We always walked.

Absolutely. If it's been a hard day it might be permissible to get the cable car down, but never up! Never abseiled either, but I don't think the pipe descent is there any more. I couldn't find it when we were there last. Strange what you get used to. Everyone used the waste pipe to get down to Fountain Ledge from the top but it now strikes me as a completely bonkers thing to do!


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