UKC

Less travelled routes

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 Rog Wilko 26 Sep 2017
Suffering from man-flu at present and getting a bit bored, so started looking at the early days of my climbing career on my log book. I found a couple of routes which even in those days, before I'd learned much, I had not thought very good. Both of these routes have only one other entry apart from mine, which surprised me a bit.
Little Isadore (S)
Fetish (S)
I'm also wondering why such routes still appear in guidebooks, assuming they must do if they're in the UKC database.
Clearly lots of routes won't have received second ascents for all sorts of reasons, but it's still a bit odd that two severes in guidebooks in the late '60s and later have not attracted a few more suitors. Perhaps the one in Chee Dale has completely disappeared into the jungle by now. Any similar routes that have proved very little travelled?
 johncook 26 Sep 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I am developing a reputation for taking my partner on 'esoterica'. Ie routes that used to be good but are now overgrown and positively scary! Eg. Cornerstone Climb, Millstone. Old Kent road, Millstone Bowling Green, Millstone etc
Enjoy the occasional bit of esoterica, it gets you up some interesting stuff that no one else bothers with!
 Toerag 26 Sep 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Lots of routes here haven't had second ascents ever, but that's a by-product of being an out-of-the-way area. Even if a route is naff it needs recording otherwise someone else will see the line and think it's never been done before.
OP Rog Wilko 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Toerag:

I agree, but I'm not sure if Little Isadore is even visible now as Chee Dale is a real jungle compared with 40 years ago.
 C Witter 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

There are whole sections at Warton that seem to be rarely climbed - particularly the Aviary, Isolated and Matterhorn Walls. But, at least one of those routes - Cutting Edge (VS 4c) - was quite good (for the crag) when I had a go. They just happen to be in a wooded area, which is less pleasant to climb in than other parts of Warton.

There are quite a few routes in the database at Gimmer that have never been logged on UKC. I guess that might be more about the limits of UKC...

I'm quite attracted to the idea - if not the reality - of climbing esoterica, e.g. forgotten routes climbed by pioneers; easy but overly wandering routes once considered classics; zero star routes that are actually quite good; or gullies that are now thoroughly unpopular. Maybe we should encourage people to work with other criteria for route choosing: e.g. tracing out climbing history; following in the footsteps of a pioneer (like the Abraham borthers, OG Jones or Jim Birkett); or seeking out less-travelled paths. What do you think?

 Simon Caldwell 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> I'm also wondering why such routes still appear in guidebooks

Isn't the last definitive guidebook for both of these several decades old and out of print? I suspect when the BMC limestone south guide appears they'll be given passing mentions at best.
 Martin Bennett 27 Sep 2017
In reply to C Witter:



> other criteria for route choosing: e.g. tracing out climbing history; following in the footsteps of a pioneer . . . . What do you think?

Excellent notion already adopted by a club-mate of mine who's already run a most successful meet the theme of which was to repeat as many Bentley Beetham routes as possible. Great fun. I believe he's planning a Bill Peascod weekend now.
 johncook 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Martin Bennett:

This will be easier now the BMC have agreed to reinstate the first ascent details in their guides, after missing them out of a couple!
 tjekel 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Well quite a few trad routes in the alps rightly have their first ascents being last ascents at the same time. In most cases this is a quality issue here.
OP Rog Wilko 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Isn't the last definitive guidebook for both of these several decades old and out of print? I suspect when the BMC limestone south guide appears they'll be given passing mentions at best.

Could be, I haven't bought or even seen a Peak limestone guide for many years. Had a lot of fun there back in the last century, though.
OP Rog Wilko 27 Sep 2017
In reply to Martin Bennett:

When he gets to Dave Birkett you'll know it's time to make your excuses, Martin.
 C Witter 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Which club, Martin? Sounds great!

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