UKC

Hidden gem suggestions.

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 Tigger 27 Sep 2017

It occurred to me that I like many others have spent my first few years ticking off the classics and rarely go for the sub 2 star routes. However in Twll Mawr the other day we got on a route Lethal Injection (E2 5c) it's one of the best lines I've had the pleasure of climbing, the book gives it 1 star and ukc none at all. Has anyone got suggestions for routes that are under rated or classics in waiting? I smell a tick list coming on.
Post edited at 17:36
 Rog Wilko 27 Sep 2017
 pebbles 28 Sep 2017
 The Ivanator 28 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:

Lost Souls (VS 4c) esoteric, hard to locate and rarely climbed (4 logbook ticks on UKC), although it does get two stars in the CC Swanage guide. A real mini adventure experience.
OP Tigger 28 Sep 2017
In reply to pebbles:

I'd love to try some of the lines on range west, it's just all the faff and travel required for the briefing
 pebbles 28 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:

yeah. but I guess thats why they do it - the effort to attend etc acts as a filter to keep randoms from wandering all over the place and blowing themselves up.
OP Tigger 28 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:
I also quite enjoyed The Elephant's Arse (S 4b) the other day, a proper old school thrutch to get in and all of a sudden you're in an alley behind the main face. About turn and fire up the crack before bridging across and popping out above where you started. I've always liked routes like this, Lockwood's Chimney (VD) Shadrach (VS 4c) Cave Crawl (S 5a) to name a few.
Post edited at 17:18
 pebbles 28 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:

+1 for Shadrach. Although hardly unsung. Oooh...the inside route on doves nest crag. What a giggle!!!!!! Perfect for a wet day.
 pebbles 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

yeah maybe, but I'm at a loss how exactly!!!! its not that tight!
 Toerag 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:
you'll like this then:-
The Black Hole (HVS 5a)

to the OP
Agrippa (HVS 4c)
It's one of those where the description says it's good, yet inexplicably doesn't get any stars - possibly a typo?
 HammondR 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:
Hiatus on Gimmer Crag. Although this VS gets 2 stars, and thus strictly speaking is outside the perameters you have set, I think it still qualifies as a hidden gem.

Not that many climb it in comparison with the 3 star classics, and the first couple of pitches are nothing to write home about. The top section is however terrific, in a splendid location. I last did it about 20 years ago, but I still recall the surprise at just how good it was. And there are rarely queues.

 Rog Wilko 29 Sep 2017
In reply to HammondR:

There is a goodly number left of Hiatus. Some years ago I penned an article about them
www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3977
In reply to HammondR:

> Hiatus on Gimmer Crag. Although this VS gets 2 stars, and thus strictly speaking is outside the perameters you have set, I think it still qualifies as a hidden gem.

> Not that many climb it in comparison with the 3 star classics, and the first couple of pitches are nothing to write home about. The top section is however terrific, in a splendid location. I last did it about 20 years ago, but I still recall the surprise at just how good it was. And there are rarely queues.

Well, yes, it has one good pitch but the rest is quite scruffy. The UKC logbooks and comments sum up pretty much my memory of it (most people giving it one star).
1
 HammondR 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Just shows that it takes all sorts.
 Rog Wilko 29 Sep 2017
 Michael Gordon 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I'm still wondering how they got her out. Just by pulling?
In reply to Tigger:

Pretty much everything at Turningstone Edge.
 eaf4 29 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:

The Klondyker on Skye. Did it after climbing King Cobra, and it was a lot better. (Although Latter gives it 3*, so maybe it doesn't count?)

The Klondyker (E1 5b)
 Steve Perry 30 Sep 2017
In reply to eaf4:

I'm sure it's getting 3*** in the new Selected Guide too so I guess it's known to be good.
 Smelly Fox 30 Sep 2017
In reply to Tigger:

Wilfa Corner (HVS 5a)

Scissors (E3 5a)

Both excellent and absorbing, neither have stars in the guide. Enjoy!
 Rog Wilko 30 Sep 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Re Hiatus - lots of routes are really good after an indifferent start. You have to go no further than F Route. Personally don't agree only one good pitch. It's really only the manky start to pitch 2 which hold the route back in my opinion. Then pitch three is one of the most memorable pitches of its grade to be found anywhere in the Lakes. The traverse, with overhangs above and below you is sensational enough but then untying the route-finding knot to get to the next belay is just superb in an absolutely stunning position. Even the short last pitch is good. I know Gimmer Crack is a great route and all that, but there's no real route-finding challenge, you can see from the bottom where you're going. The positions, exposure and feeling of being on an adventure on that route can't hold a candle to those of Hiatus. Just my opinion.
OP Tigger 30 Sep 2017
In reply to Smelly Fox:
Crag rock type description is crumbly rubbish! Love it
Post edited at 20:04
 Smelly Fox 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Tigger:

The rock description is a little misleading... its definitely not 'rubbish', but maybe a little crumbly... don't let it put you off!

In all seriousness, it is actually a lovely place, and the climbing is excellent if you can hold it together.
 Greasy Prusiks 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

It says in the article they used a five to one pulley to get her out.
 Michael Gordon 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Yes, I read that too. Often in situations where someone is trapped it's actually necessary to enlarge the space or cut clothing in order to get them out, but presumably neither would have been an option.
 Greasy Prusiks 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I can imagine that. I've got a friend who worked in cave rescue and he once told me that the 'rescue kit' for stuck cavers is a box with a bottle of fairy liquid in it. I've never quite known if he was joking.
 Rog Wilko 01 Oct 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Best not to get the Squeezy on the bits of the victim you're pulling, I'd imagine.

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