/ FitClub 550

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guy127917 - on 01 Oct 2017
Afternoon all, I hope sunny September is treating you well. It's another pleasingly-round number week- 550! We cannot dwell on that for too long though, for it means there are only 5 weeks to go, until your Challenge 555 goals MUST BE COMPLETED*

* valid excuses include illness/injury/children/optimism/life.

Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x) 
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181 (x) (/)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x) 
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (x) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (x) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=671689


AlanLittle: Oh bad news on the illness front, were you back to 100% by the end of this week?
AJM: Selfishly hoping you’re not going to tell me the weather on the south coast was glorious and you DWS’ed all weekend (we chickened out of the drive after seeing a forecast).
Si dH: That’s like 3g of flapjack Did you change your diet up this week?
mrchewy: A month in Font… jealous! Sounds like getting your shoulder sorted is a priority- impingement should be fairly addressable with rehab exercises?
guy127917: How did the mileage increase go?
mattrm: Taking weight off as required sounds like a good idea- I’ve seen people use elastic bands for this on a bar as well, though I’ve never tried it myself.
Dandan82: Cheating a little to squeeze out an extra rep is a form of progression, as long as you don’t let it form as a bad habit. On the easier graded work- are you adjusting technique/movement around the pain or is it genuinely less strain that is reducing the pain?
snoop6060: Is the wrist improving as time goes on?
Jen Jones: Welcome back! How was your training this week?
Ally Smith: On first read I assumed ‘20s style flapper party’ was something to do with skin condition…
hms: Yes I’m sure certain people here will certainly agree with you about the merits of waving a paintbrush above your head.
the sheep: nice work hitting your 150km target! Hows the 555 weight goal looking?
hokkyoksei: Believing you can finish is half the battle right!?
TheFasting: Moving fast on ridges takes a lot of practice- if you made it along 2km with some snow etc you must have been doing alright
planetmarshall: Someone actually doing jug carries… hero!
Tom Green: Progress is never linear! I tend to go to pieces after hitting a goal- it’s making me think quite hard about how big/small each goal should be and how you see them as steps towards each other rather than as isolated things.
biscuit: The motivational effect of shiny things is working well!
Just TinTin: Wow I hope people appreciated their food at the festival!
AJM - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Selfishly hoping you’re not going to tell me the weather on the south coast was glorious and you DWS’ed all weekend (we chickened out of the drive after seeing a forecast).

Sadly no dws for me! You'd have got out and got stuff done yesterday, but certainly in Poole today has been claggy mizzle all day.

Feels like a good week, despite the continued wet southwesterlies with no dws opportunities. Kaly is in 2 weeks now so next weekend, more likely just next Saturday, is my last window. Going to be tough to fit in an E2, a 7B and some DWS, but if push comes to shove I'll prioritise the latter

I did a bunch of random pull-ups and press ups and that sort of thing during the week, and an attempt at 2on2off (two attempts? Having a child has destroyed my memory!) which ended in frustration at the tape on my fingers (to protect skin) hampering me doing it properly.

I also made it to the wall, twice. Skin very sore now, not used to this resin nonsense. Main project has been the pink circuit, although my friend pointed out today that myopically I've been trying to do it in reverse. Nevertheless, it flows pretty well after a silly first move, and has a red point crux a few moves from the end where all good training cruxes should be. Worked it and had a few goes on Friday, then some more concentrated efforts today failing at the red point crux 2-3 times. Good hard work.

The last thing I did was a Dorset Bolt Fund bolting workshop (well, half of it). At the battleship bolting day in September I'd done some drilling and some glueing, but Marti had already marked the bolt positions so it was a bit "drill by numbers". So I thought it would be good to get the practice at actually making those judgements myself, since that's one of the trickier bits to get right. Got a good opportunity to do that, and brush up on the drill/glue process. Feeling fairly confident about it now, which is good especially since I've got ideas for some stuff. About the only bit I've not done now is chopping the old ones, but I'm sure that's not rocket science. Psyched for a bit more helping out on dank winter days and hopefully getting to the point of trying to organise stuff myself too.

Holiday plans coming together nicely now too which is good for training planning - Kalymnos soon, Peak over Christmas, Font at Easter leads to a fairly boulder centric winter programme, just need to work out how much background fitness needs to be incorporated into it to build a base for the summer.

Not sure on plans for this week. Be nice to do another lattice decay if my skin recovers, keeping fingers crossed for getting outside (it does look like the airflow might be swinging more west/northwest which might be a bit fresher and reduce the swell), and keeping plugging away at those final few weeks of training. I weighed myself this week and was pleasantly surprised to find I'm not that heavy, which given the zero focus on it is good news.
Si dH - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, and good spot - that should have said 1500 kcal, not 15! Diet in the week has been good, thanks. Think I should have dropped a lb or two. However weekend much less good as we had visitors here and fancy lunches with wine both days.

M: Shoulders: 4 x 5 each of low rows, reverse flies and IYWs, 3 x 5 second prone flys.
T: as Monday, plus a Fingerboard session (just a variety of 'max' hangs working my fingers below the pain threshold. No improvement on previous session; got to about+15kg before the right middle pulley hurt.
W: rest
T: bouldering at the Unit. Did 2 blues and worked a yellow a bit and another blue a bit. Good session, pleased to be able to crank fairly hard and get some decent problems done without injuries stopping me.
F: rest
S: as Thursday. Did three more blues. Good session. Also did half a shoulder session on the wall's trx.
S: doing more Shoulder work currently as per Monday/Tuesday. Am feeling pretty knackered though after a night's non-sleep, and left shoulder is slightly tweaky, so probably time to stop...

Edit: pretty good week overall but definitely need to keep watching my diet more. I'm beginning to think the extra weight is also the source of most of my finger injuries and tweaks.
Bit disappointed I didn't get out - drove to Cratcliffe Saturday early morning, but it was grim.
Post edited at 17:56
AlanLittle - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Firing on all cylinders again, fortunately.

STG (Sept): ukb Berchtesgaden Expedition. So, how did that go Alan? Well we'd definitely climb together again, and nobody got hurt. So by definition a successful expedition. And the route? (Avoids eye contact, changes subject). See below.

MTG (Oct): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light convalescent session, though not quite as light as intended. Five rounds of steep juggy PE circuits & two of feet-on campusing. Accidentally rounded off with 30 minutes ARC. The plan was 15 to 20 but I miscounted the beeps on my timer. Did think it was getting surprisingly tiring.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Coaching, supporting, pottering - nothing strenuous.

W: Rest. Collect other half of ukb Berchtesgaden expedition from airport.

T: Wassersymphonie attempt. A friend who knows the area better than I do had warned me that things might already getting a bit autumnal for a north facing fifteen pitch route, and sure enough the second soaking wet 6b pitch at about mid height broke our spirit. (The other half of the team had also made the rookie mistake of going on a big route in new shoes; the crippling pain wasn't contributing to team morale either). Abbed off & retreated to pub.

F: Urlkopf. Went to a shorter, more south facing crag the other side of the valley for an easier day. Did a lovely route, home to probably the best 6a pitch I've ever done, but also the first one I can ever remember falling off. Falling off high on an exposed multipitch route turns out to be good for the head: excellent.

S: rest. Half an hour mobility & shoulder/elbow rehab

S: Rainy Sunday at the wall, Thalkirchen. This went well. Couple of warm-ups, then seven long (17 metre), steep routes at around my onsight level. Moving well, and getting better at gritting my teeth and carrying on when tired.
mrchewy - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - hope you've had a great week.

Injury reigns supreme. Tweaked the right ACL falling on Monday evening, which obviously put doubts into the short term plans.

Mon - Loughborough. Had a great night, climbing 2.5hrs with no rests. Lots of V2/3 flashes, even pulled into the 45deg woodie. Didn't get far hahaha but getting my arse off the floor is an improvement over a month ago. Repeated all the V3/4s I've done, during the last half hour when I was really tired. Fell of the slab onto a straight leg just before that, thought nowt of it but after two hours in the car it had swollen badly and gave way. Took a tumble, and hurt everything. Limped home. Not good.
Tue - Knee gave way at work as I climbed off a roof onto a ladder and down I went. Ouch.
Wed - Pinnacle. Belayed Paul but couldn't climb, so did some foot on campusing on the small rail, some hangs etc. Oddly, on the BM2k I can only hang 4sec in the big two finger pockets but 15sec on the top monos. Go figure.
Thu - So it seems the ACL is tweaked, physio said that's the main issue but meniscus is displaced again and tweaked the medial when I fell later. Sore all round from falling off the roof too. Hey ho.
Fri - Paul's board. Go to do the first pull-up and the board comes away from the wall on one side. End of session. What a week. Set off driving for Switzerland and run over a cat, or rather, it ran into me. Crazy.
Sat - Drive to Swizzy in the rain, it's good to be back. Lovely place, great people. I really am privileged to lead the life I do.
Sun - Walk on Pilatus, the mountain overlooking Luzern. Sensibly used poles, 400m of steep ascent was fine, coming down was painful but the leaves were golden, it didn't rain and we also went to look at a steep, small crag my friend has bolted - 7a+ to 8a+. Amazing looking crag that's not in a guide... the Swiss are fortunate to have so much good rock.

I guess pretty disastrous as far as injuries go but looking at the positives, I didn't break anything falling off the roof and I heal quickly. Walking today was better than expected, so I'll rest up this coming week and then head back to Rubicon on Saturday and see how it holds up to a little climbing. Project 555 might not be dead in the water.
If I think climbing is going to lengthen recovery, I may however have to forget about the 555 goal of climbing my first 7a because having fun in Fontainebleau is far more important and that's only a month away. The 5+6 font guide arrived in the post this week, so feeling really psyched!

Enjoy the week people.
Post edited at 21:45
Bobling - on 01 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hello again FitClub!

I've been on FitClub holiday for the last six months as I needed to focus on other things in my life, now I'm back to single handedly drop the mean grade of routes being reported in FitClub. I've been busy building an extension (well having one built around me) this has died down now and I have a beautiful house complete with an extra one and a half bedrooms, new kitchen, new dining room, new utility room, new shower room, wood burning stove, new workshop/office/gear polishing room and most importantly a Lego room! The downside is fitness has gone completely off the boil and I'm drinking and smoking a couple of cigarettes a night again : (.

I'm not going to report on activity from last week as apart from my daily commute to work and various parent related running around I have not done any structured fitness. The good news is that setting new goals is going to be easy.

Weight: 72.20 (+/- 0) Seriously ZERO gain/loss, how is it possible I stop exercising for six months and remain exactly the same weight?!

Injury report: Quiet - no exercise = no injuries, let's hope that stays the same. Perhaps the enforced break has given my achilles time to heal too he says hopefully?

Exercises (copied from last FitClub entry): 2 min press-ups, 2 min each leg leg stands with rotations, 2 mins sit ups, leg lifts on side 2 set 12, 1min front plank, 30 sec each side plank, 1 min front plank, 30 sec each side plank. 3 sets 12 heel drops, combination of both legs at once and each leg singly.

New Goals:
Short Term: Get back in the pool, get back on the wall, get running again - just start taking regular exercise! Phase smoking back out.

Medium Term (before Summer 2018): Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock. Tick one of wishlist - Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
Dandan82 - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

> I also made it to the wall, twice. Skin very sore now, not used to this resin nonsense. Main project has been the pink circuit, although my friend pointed out today that myopically I've been trying to do it in reverse. Nevertheless, it flows pretty well after a silly first move, and has a red point crux a few moves from the end where all good training cruxes should be. Worked it and had a few goes on Friday, then some more concentrated efforts today failing at the red point crux 2-3 times. Good hard work.

Was this at The Project? I'm pretty reliably down there Tuesday and Thursday evenings at the moment if you ever find yourself available in that time slot. I'm going to have to investigate the pink circuit too tomorrow, for my reference which way is the correct way...?
AJM - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Was this at The Project? I'm pretty reliably down there Tuesday and Thursday evenings at the moment if you ever find yourself available in that time slot. I'm going to have to investigate the pink circuit too tomorrow, for my reference which way is the correct way...?

Yes, the Project, and correct is left to right but right to left has a bit of a kicker step up into an undercut a few moves from the end. Terrible with indoor circuit grades as they never bear much relation to my experience of that grade outdoors so it's probably 6b+ or something

Blue is quite easy, green I didn't get on with in the middle where it seemed very bunched, haven't tried the other one (white?).

That's convenient. Unlikely in the next few weeks but we have been discussing schedules for post-Kaly and I think Tuesday will be my wall night so I shall see you then...
Ally Smith on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the stats again Guy - another weekend of partying, but no confusing themes this week!

Week 40
M - Tor - smeggy upon arrival. Dicked about on a rope/grigri trying GA & Weedkiller. It had dried back a bit at sunset, so had a little boulder on Basher’s RH & Basher’s original – the latter of which took much faff until I accidentally found leaving the foot low made getting the ear/crimp much easier.
T - Same as last week - minor shoulder grumbles from bouldering = theraband and piddly dumbbell exercises.
W - Squeezed in an-cap fingerboarding; 10/3 intervals to failure with +13kg. Max 149s, then decay curve. 3x8 OHP @ 40kg – spot on resistance, just finished last reps in set 2&3. 3x30 sit-ups@+5kg weight vest.
T - Nowt
F - Back to the Tor. Much improved conditions and with company for once! Played around and got beta on a few things. Got close on Cave Problem SS – random ping off post crux. Slapped my way up Perverse Reverse/Basher’s RH at the end of the session by the skin on my teeth.
S - Confused "in-laws" by performing shoulder (p)rehab in the lounge whilst going through holiday snaps! Used bigger weights than Tuesday; I can see imbalances that need to work on now I’m using weights that take me to failure. Then big band concert 'til late o'clock.
S - Nowt – tired from late night/early airport run.
hms - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. This was a busy week at work with days rearranged and in at the weekend, but managed to get in more sessions than I'd expected:

M - cycle commute, 2 miles urban walking.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR for ancap circuit bits. 2 min rest between each chunk, 4 chunks, 10 mins, repeat whole lot twice more. Used different bits of the 2 circuits available. Fell off the 6a circuit on my warm-down I was that tired!
W - cycle commute. prehab: trx Is Ys Ts, theraband shoulder and elbow, shoulder related weights.
T - TCA squeezed in session in morning. Warmed up by flashing the new V1-V3 set, then concerted goes on the V4s which had eluded me before. Got 4 more, 2 more should go, 2 never will (if your arms aren't long enough you barn door off)
F - cycle commute. More prehab in evening: shoulder related weights, Is Ys and Ts on exercise ball (always makes me want to vomit, that one!)
S - work, hiss, boo. But good FB aerocap session in evening: 7/3/6/1 x 10 at BW on slopers and pockets, rest, 7/3/6/1 x 10 on 20mm edges using half crimp, 6kg assist.
S - taking D2 back to uni. FB aerocap session in evening: 7/3/6/1 x 10 with 2kg added on slopers and pockets, rest, 7/3/6/1 x 10 on 20mm edges using half crimp, 5kg assist.

next couple of weeks could be quite disrupted: visiting parents this week, 4 day work course next.
Dandan82 - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy!

> Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x) 

Elbow has basically ruled all of these out, about the only goal I can expect to achieve now is perhaps 555 eccentric elbow exercises!

> Dandan82: Cheating a little to squeeze out an extra rep is a form of progression, as long as you don’t let it form as a bad habit. On the easier graded work- are you adjusting technique/movement around the pain or is it genuinely less strain that is reducing the pain?

I am just dropping the intensity or picking problems that don't seem to cause any aggravation, as it was actually a positive technique change that has caused this issue so I don't want to backtrack to bad habits, my elbows need to get used to doing things properly!

I won't do a day-by-day for this week, it was basically 3 sessions of low difficulty climbing and a lot of avoiding the antagonist work due to lack of motivation.
The problem with going to the wall to do a half-session at low intensity, is that I feel full of beans afterwards and am tempted to try a few problems while I'm there, inevitably working up to harder and harder problems, which can't be good for the elbow, even if it feels OK at the time.

I began eccentric exercises yesterday, it feels a bit tight and sore this morning but I think that's to be expected as the eccentrics are supposed to hurt, there's going to be some fallout from that. I'll continue with those twice a day for a couple of weeks at least, and try to avoid climbing hard (at least try harder than I have so far).
Perhaps I can get it to a state where I can do good 7's mileage in Margalef, but i'm not holding out too much hope. Ah well, it won't be the first holiday marred by injury, so i'll go, have fun, and try hard next time.

I might dig out my Gymnastic bodyweight exercise book and play with some of those again while I can't climb so much, perhaps I can get back to some handstands. Also I should dig into the Supple Leopard book and put some more effort into my flexibility, I can't stay idle!

STG:
Do all non climbing sessions on the plan this week
Read up and do self-assessment from the Supple Leopard book
the sheep - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: nice work hitting your 150km target! Hows the 555 weight goal looking?

Cheers Guy, the goal has now been set at 200km for the year. Weight is still resolute at 15 1/2 stone. Going to have to accept that changes will need to be made to diet and not just rely on exercise. Beer and wine will be the first on the hit list so a cleaner October lies ahead. In terms of the running goal its going to take a big effort with not being able to run to my desired level over the last few weeks due to niggles.

Anyway as weeks go last week was not my finest, given I had a few days away to go to the funeral and sort out family stuff all i managed was a swim and a 16k ride. However today starts a new week and as I treated myself to a new pair of Speedo's im expecting great things!!
Tom Green on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy.

Another mediocre week, where I feel like working towards medium term goals is competing with short term goals, all of which is competing with the weather!!

STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (x -off to font in two weeks)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (x -so far, so good)

Feel like it’s just the E-points that are going to be hard to get, as I just need to get the mileage in and the weather/work combination isn’t helping.

M: rest
T: shoulder rehab (bands) in am. Hill shuttles pm (2 reps of 105m vertical in 275m horizontal, carrying 10kg rucksack)
W: indoor bouldering (all problems on boardroom V0-V1 circuit, four problems on V1-V2 circuit), autobelay laps to failure (alternating between easy and hard routes, 3 x20 sit-ups, 3 x30sec sideplanks.
T: shoulder rehab (bands)
F: rest
S: rest
S: shoulder rehab (bands)

Next week need to get out to the clwyd limestone, regardless of the weather!
TheFasting on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Quite a bit of snow actually: https://www.instagram.com/p/BZlyKLVjxJ5/?taken-by=thefasting

Mostly last week I spent recovering and catching up on schoolwork. Toes were a bit numb, but red and not white so I didn't suspect frostbite (also I guess numbness shows that there's still some feeling which also suggests no frostbite), now they're almost back to normal.

Still couldn't resist taking my numb toes out for a spin and going bouldering. Did a few tries on a problem I failed last time and got a big new PR when I sent it (Steepstone.com (f6B+)). Haven't climbed f6A+ or f6B but skipping to f6B+ is fine by me. Here's the video with horrendous footwork: https://www.instagram.com/p/BZqzNUoDxra/?taken-by=thefasting

Otherwise sedentary week besides some L-sits and pull-ups.
Post edited at 20:12
AlanLittle - on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

Well done!

Footwork could indeed be more elegant, but a tick's a tick. Is the obvious huge sidepull jug off limits?
TheFasting on 02 Oct 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yeah it was "defined away" as the guidebook said. I have done a problem over there too, but that's f5+
annak on 03 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

A double post for me, but the first week was characterised by still being flu-y and the second by losing a lot of my motivation for building cardio because my Alps trip got cancelled (partner injury).

Week 549:
M: cycled 20km commute
T: cycled
W: cycled
Th: cycled, short outdoor bouldering session
F: cycled 10km
Sa: tried to go bouldering but it was far too wet. Got up a couple of 3s, everything else near impossible
Su: rest

Week 550:
M: cycled, yoga
T: indoor bouldering
W: yoga, weights
Th: rest
F: cycled
Sa: trad in Bohuslan, great day, RPd a n6- and a few other nice climbs
Su: rest, rain

This week I'm on-call so no big hikes or anything permitted.
biscuit - on 03 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

Busy week as suspected. After 5 days climbing last week I ended up with one climbing session only. I was just too busy/tired with starting uni again. The one day went OK as it was finals night for The Depot Summer league. I came second overall, which is mainly due to doing all the rounds and attending the finals night. But I was quite pleased with how I climbed on the night.

Diet went AWOL on Saturday night for a family meal but is now feeling much more like a thing that just happens now. I've really cut out a lot of crap and am feeling good off it. Not been on the scales for a while. Will give them a go this week.

Commuted 3 times to uni so 75 miles ish done.

This week:

2 commutes = 50 miles
1 routes session
1 circuits at Depot
Whatever I can get over the weekend - bike or climb
1 repeaters on fingerboard
Body fat measurement
Si dH - on 03 Oct 2017
In reply to TheFasting:
Hey, sorry if this has been said before. Your footwork is indeed a bit scrappy, but we've all been there. Have you ever tried 'silent feet' training? The idea being to find an easy traverse (approx vertical, big handholds, small feet) and keep going whilst aiming to not be able to hear yourself placing your feet on the next hold.
This forces you to place your feet very carefully. If you gradually start to do it with slightly smaller (or awkwardly positioned) hands then it forces you to learn to hold some body tension/positioning to allow you to keep all your weight on the other foot, so that you can place your foot on new new hold more carefully. This is what you need to learn in order to avoid having to bounce your feet up the the wall whenever your other 3 hand/foot holds aren't all comfortably positioned.

Bit boring but can also make good ARC training.
Post edited at 20:58
mrchewy - on 03 Oct 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:
Gotta love the interweb - my Instagram just informed me that Ally Smith, Nalle Hukkataival & Alexander Megos have just updated their stories. Keeping some good company there mate!
Post edited at 22:55
Ally Smith on 04 Oct 2017
In reply to mrchewy:

> Gotta love the interweb - my Instagram just informed me that Ally Smith, Nalle Hukkataival & Alexander Megos have just updated their stories. Keeping some good company there mate!

but crucially, do their stories include pictures of food and cats (surely the best use of Instagram...)?
TheFasting on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

I did that for a few weeks earlier this spring but I totally forgot about it. But you're right, I should do that.
planetmarshall on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> Hey, sorry if this has been said before. Your footwork is indeed a bit scrappy, but we've all been there. Have you ever tried 'silent feet' training? The idea being to find an easy traverse (approx vertical, big handholds, small feet) and keep going whilst aiming to not be able to hear yourself placing your feet on the next hold.

Watched a guy do this on the circuits at the Depot on Tuesday. The difference between him and me was stark - Me: "Thump, thump, thump..." Admittedly I was trying to concentrate on getting round before my forearms exploded, but still.
Just Tintin - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Spoke to Banksy about GG to see what is in as they roped him in early on to help open up some of the lines. He instead put me onto High and Dry (f7A+) (pocket crack) which is proving a lot more enjoyable and feels like it should go. Chert Cobain (f7A+) also very pleasing though frequently wet at the moment.
Just Tintin - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for another set of stats Guy.

Struggling at the moment and another mum complication has left me feeling a bit overcommitted with everything now in a very compressed timeline that coincides with FC555 (organisational review for BMC, WCS, secret project X, a few work things).

The main variable is mum so now waiting for op to be scheduled to remove brain tumour so that and surrounding time needs unknown. And I'm stuck in London this weekend. So quick check in on goals:

1. Lead E4. Not writing it off. Will depend on time to get on rock. A few possibles in Morocco. TOYP not been dry for last few weekends and I've been feeling way too ragged to try it anyway. Soft option could be Apple Arête Direct (E4 5c) or Jetrunner (E4 6a) but chances of getting a nice weekend on the grit limited.
2. Morocco Nicklist - feeling good about this if we get to Morocco.
3. Another 7A/7A+ - now feels possible at The P in another 1/2 sessions. Just need to be in Peak and it to be dry!
4. WFD - written off before 555 - zero chance of getting to S Wales before then.
5. Lose 2kg - Morocco will help. Being active all day instead of being deskbound...
6. Run a successful WCS - should do though my to do list is long!

M-T conditioning but not climbing
F - mental volume session at the Unit
S - Boulder curbar between showers
S - The P trying some new 7A+s. Unit on the way back to Oxford - working blues and yellows. Close on a few yellows but suspect they'll be gone before I'm there next.

The bright side:?
1. I have two lattice edges (one upstairs in Oxford and one in Matlock) on top of my dining room fingerboard rig so I reckon I will get 555 pull ups in before FC555 as I do a few every time I pass one. Wonder if I can get one in my office... too late to add to goals but something to cling to when I miss others!!!
2. Lost half a kg in stress this week. Not actually a gain but I'll take it at the moment.

Post edited at 02:21
Si dH - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Cool, good luck with those. What did he say about gg?
Si dH - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Ps I reckon if you have done some of the blues at the Unit on the comp wall (and especially yellows!) then you have almostly certainly done your 7A already!
Just Tintin - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

He was heelhooking left but not on the shelf. I'm still trying to work out what this means. My guess was the pre-shelf. This sets you up for a long pop to a rh
crimp.

I have a photo that I could geekily email if you're feeling geeky.

Just Tintin - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Alas no. Slabs crimps tiny pockets and corners so all the easy pickings!


Si dH - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

Yes pls photo would be awesome.

Makes me hopeful since I rules out left heels completely. I know the rh crimp you mean. Although if his left heel is up but not on the big shelf, I expect it feels veey eliminate...
Just Tintin - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Si dH:
Yes he didn't rate it very much as a problem. Will annotate my photo!
Jen Jones - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy,

Fairly brief this week as I left it too late and can't remember the details.
Mon: bouldering for a few hours in the day
Tues: Rest
Weds: Circuits at gym in morning. Climbing - did a 7a clean on top-rope, attempted the 6b crack which is actually impossible.
Thurs: Rest
Friday - 3.8 mile run. Bouldering.
Saturday - rest
Sunday - climbing - did some lead climbs at the Castle and felt pretty good

Goals:
Lead 4 of my DNFs or dogged climbs from the past year on Portland - I have completed 2 - in Portland so hopefully next week this will be complete.
Complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session
boulder a V5 at the climbing wall - managed quite a lot of V4's and trying V5's
guy127917 - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Late post for me this week. Last week went pretty well- we didn’t get away at the weekend so had a couple of extra training days. Diet didn’t go so well as usual.

Monday:
8.5km run
45/105 campus foot off ladders x3 x4
15ish wave (max boulder) attempts, probably shouldn't have done this bit after campus
4x 8on 8off on autobelays

Tuesday: Work charity ‘triathlon’ event 7x10 minute sprints (run, rowing, cycling)

Wednesday:
Doubles 90s/90s x2 cave x3 downstairs up to 7a
3 x strenuous attempts at the Castle’s ‘6b’ crack ????
Bit of slab bouldering

Thursday: Rest

Friday:
Max Hangs
Boulder intervals, 2x 5 reps ~ v3 30s rest, 6x 4 reps ~v2 no rest. Hard to find quiet routes at the right level last the Castle for these, even on a week day. If only I could rep routes on the wave (maybe I need to really dial the easiest line on there).
Short 2mile run

Saturday: Rest
?Sunday:
10 mile slow run
12 lead routes in doubles at the castle.

This week is almost over so no point setting a goal at this point! (Jen and I are sitting in a cafe in Portland waiting for the rain to stop hence the simul-posts)
mattrm - on 08 Oct 2017
In reply to guy127917:


STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st

M - F - Nowt
S - 40 push ups
S - 20 routes at Rec

It is looking like the weekends are going to be when I'm doing some climbing. Be nice to do something outside, but that doesn't seem feasible for a while. I had thought I'd posted, but apparently not.

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