In reply to rmalli:
You have my sympathy mate, I also managed to savage my hand on a broken wine glass doing the washing up on mothers' day in 2010. I completely severed the tendon on the side of my right ring finger, flexor digitalis or something like that if I recall.
The exercises do hurt, I hated those and the physio and the scar tissue massage almost equally. I also hated wearing the horrible plastic splint, which everyone dubbed my spade hand. All in all it was a bit of a shit really, especially as the doctor I had was telling me I'd probably never be able to use it for climbing again, which in my naivety I accepted as gospel for a couple of days.
On to the good news: my finger is now fully healed, so just stick with the healing process. I started climbing again quite quickly but exclusively one handed, no kidding it's actually quite fun and you can even start doing some pretty fun problems. I gradually started using my injured hand again, letting the pain guide me really. At first I was really nervous and I would get weird aches and pains. It took me about 6 months before I was fully confident in using it again, and even now I am conscious sometimes that it is a bit tighter or achey on some holds (small irregular crimps for example) but after 7 years I've concluded it's just my finger moaning rather than breaking.
The one thing I would say is that I never gained full mobility and flex back to my finger. It is permanent bent at the middle joint. It doesn't affect me really except sometimes it get slightly wedged in when jamming. I think this is because I wasn't very disciplined with my physio and range of movement exercises, firstly because they hurt and secondly because I just started using it for climbing and again and just gave up on them. So, I would definitely suggest you learn from that and keep up the flexing, massage and physio. Might be worth seeing a specialist as much as I love the NHS specialist after care is not their strongest point although I emphasise that it was my fault for letting the exercises lapse.
Anyway, I hope this has been reassuring. The big message is that it will heal, you will be able to climb again and you are already on the road to recovery. Get them to prescribe you co codamol for the cold weather. Best wishes
