UKC

Due to Monarch going bust, plans may be changed to do a week in the UK. Having never done anything down south and as it usually has better weather im looking for some suggestions. Sport and Trad, what have you got for me guys and gals of ukc. Thanks

In reply to D.botts87:

Sorry to hear you've been hit by the Monarch failure.

In my experience (40 years +) I've found that the weather is often best in Swanage. There is camping here http://www.tomsfieldcamping.co.uk/ which is a shortish walk to the nearest crags.
Be aware that the grades can feel a bit on the hard side. I usually drop a grade at Swanage.

Portland also gets reasonable weather.

Pembroke, North Devon and Cornwall get better weather than many parts of the UK too, but it is not quite as reliable as Swanage.

In reply to D.botts87:

Swanage and the south coast can be really good - Boulder Ruckle is somewhat serious but it's ace. Portland for lots of sport too. Wye Valley has some great climbing, as does Avon and Cheddar, but Cheddar can be colder than a witchs proverbials with a bit of wind and overcast weather. Cornwall hs some of the finest climbing anywhere I've been IMO - certainly the best I've done in the UK... if you happen to be a member of the CC you could stay at the count house which is a stones throw from Bosigran...

In reply to D.botts87:

Cornwall has some of the best sub E-grade routes in the country. Don't forget to call in to do this on the way down:
Central Groove (HS 4b)

In reply to D.botts87:

I'd echo all the above, swanage is my usual climbing venue and Boulder Ruckle is awesome, if you have enough experience to get in and outsafely. Alternatively Guillemot ledge provides an equally good but less committing alternative.

If the weather is looking damp Portland is often dry due to its outlying location, and actually to a lesser extent Swanage has the same anomalous dryness.

In reply to D.botts87:

Avon Gorge - Suspension bridge buttress has some of the best HVS's I have ever climbed.

Shornecliff in the Wye valley is a great place for starred, very well protected VS & HVS routes on unpolished rock.

Portland has enough sport climbs to last a lifetime! I find the grading to be very wild down there though! Some crags 6a's feel like 6c's and on the older routes you might only get 4 bolts in 20 or so meters of climbing! Generally though the sport routes at Portland are awesome

In reply to minty1984:

Seeing you climb around HVSish I'd highly recommend Swanage (Boulder Ruckle and Guillemot Ledge, but don't forget your ab rope) and Wye Valley (Shorn Cliff in particularly, also Wintours)

If you head into the deep west there are tons of options that get progressively better the further you drive.

In reply to D.botts87:

Great stuff everyone, thanks. Looks like a trip down to Dorset is on the cards then. Fingers crossed for some good weather. Boulder Ruckle def looks like its worth a visit.

In reply to D.botts87:
For vs to e1, you should really go down to lands end way and climb on the granite. Some of the best rock in the country at bosigran, sennen etc, on one of the most beautiful coastlines going. Whilst swanage is great for the adventure, the rock quality often leaves a lot to be desired. If I had a week to kill, it'd be Cornwall every time. If weather gets a bit shaky then head to lizard.

In reply to D.botts87:

The weather has been unremittingly shite in Cornwall for what seems like an age. Honestly, check the forecast before coming here, Swanage is probably a much better bet, or better yet, Torbay.