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VIDEO: Alex Megos on three Swiss 9a's

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 UKC News 05 Oct 2017
Alex Megos on Speed, 4 kbThis short film shows Alex Megos on somewhat of a rampage. He heads to some of Switzerland's top sport climbing venues; Voralpsee, Tüfleten and Val Bavona, where he has ten days of climbing without rest, managing three 9a's and seven other routes of 8b+ or above.

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8
 Arms Cliff 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I think these may be the most annoying sort of climbing films. They have obviously spent ages getting loads of really high quality quality climbing footage, probably hours worth, and all we are left with is a shitty 6 minute Red Bull advert.

I haven't seen any footage of Coup de Grace since Dosage III a decade ago, and all we are treated to is 30 seconds cut up.
 1poundSOCKS 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Arms Cliff:

> all we are left with is a shitty 6 minute Red Bull advert.

About 4 minutes in, does he pretend to take a sip?
 mal_meech 05 Oct 2017
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I liked the opening shot of the sweatband @ 4 seconds... good hand position during the product placement shot ....

It would have been nice to see more of the climbing and less of the product shots, but everyone has to pay the bills.

We all know Alex only drinks Tea anyway.
 Wft 05 Oct 2017
In reply to Arms Cliff:

Suprised it's 6 minutes long tbh
 DannyC 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Overall, there wasn't not quite enough Red Bull branding in it for me. I was left wondering about his commitment to the brand, and whether his body and mind had been fully vitalized during those quality routes

(Not actually taking the mick now) I happened to be standing behind Megos in Chamonix Carrefour last month. He was buying nothing but a GIANT cauliflower and a bumper pack of bog roll. Therein lies the secret, perhaps.

Danny.
 GrahamD 05 Oct 2017
In reply to DannyC:

>He was buying nothing but a GIANT cauliflower and a bumper pack of bog roll. Therein lies the secret, perhaps.

Yes, don't buy the one without the other.

 Chris_Mellor 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Enough with this Red Bull advertising stuff. The oh so carefully placed sweatband; the casual (really!) holding of a Red Bull can in an interview, the jump cut, short attention span, interrupted climbing sequence shots. Enough of this crap already.

Er, I didn't like it by the way.
 olddirtydoggy 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Red Bull, red bull red bull, Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull.
Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull? Red Bull!!!! Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull, Red Bull.
Red Bull Red Bull "Red Bull". Red Bull Red Bull (Red Bull) Red Bull.

That's all I have to say about this.
 alx 05 Oct 2017
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

What a crock of overprocessed product placement crud. It makes me so angry I can barely manage my second can of Red Bull
 Steve Perry 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Can we not have some movies with climbers smoking Bensens or JPS fags, it's so much cooler.
2
 FactorXXX 05 Oct 2017
In reply to DannyC:

Overall, there wasn't not quite enough Red Bull branding in it for me.

Saw the video and this came to mind:

youtube.com/watch?v=KjB6r-HDDI0&

 john arran 05 Oct 2017
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

> Red Bull, red bull red bull, Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull.

> Red Bull Red Bull Climbing Works Red Bull Red Bull? Red Bull!!!! Red Bull Red Bull Red Bull Patagonia, Red Bull.

> Red Bull Red Bull "Red Bull". Climbing Works Red Bull (Red Bull) Red Bull.

FTFY.

How much did you pay him for the product placement, Graeme?

In reply to UKC News:
I mean... I get the Redbull hate here. But these types of sponsorship deals allow climbers like Megros to climb 100% of the time and as a result really push the sport forward. So either we lose sponsorship and go back to the days of Seb Grieve and John Dunne coming out after work and doing their best with the time they've got ... or we embrace a few product placements to watch guys like Megros climb things considered insane 10 years ago in a day and watch them push the boundaries of our sport to whole new levels.

Either way. Bloody impressive climbing Alex. Coup de Grace is not a line I've seen done on Video since DG!
Post edited at 19:28
3
 FactorXXX 05 Oct 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I mean... I get the Redbull hate here. But these types of sponsorship deals allow climbers like Megros to climb 100% of the time and as a result really push the sport forward. So either we lose sponsorship and go back to the days of Seb Grieve and John Dunne coming out after work and doing their best with the time they've got ... or we embrace a few product placements to watch guys like Megros climb things considered insane 10 years ago in a day and watch them push the boundaries of our sport to whole new levels.

I agree with you, the likes of Megos benefit massively from such deals and it's great that it enables them to climb full time because of them.
However, I think this type of video is not aimed at climbers and that is why us 'climbers' take the piss out of them.
They're almost, dare I say it, approaching Bear Grylls in their content, style and delivery...
 Bulls Crack 05 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

A crap film but I had to watch it twice to notice the product!
1
 lewiz 05 Oct 2017
In reply to FactorXXX:

That Bear Grylls trad top rope tough guy video was a far more entertaining watch.
 Robert Durran 05 Oct 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> I mean... I get the Redbull hate here. But these types of sponsorship deals allow climbers like Megros to climb 100% of the time and as a result really push the sport forward.

I imagine companies are lining up to sponsor the likes of Megos. I doubt there is any need for him to stoop as low as tarnishing his image with Red Bull to climb full time. And if it is necessary, I'd rather see climbing stagnate.
14
 alx 05 Oct 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I guess the problem is <Red Bull> that the staged promotion and the fast cutting <Red Bull> between the footage <Red Bull> we want to see is really <Red Bull> replacing <Red Bull> the climbing <Red Bull> we <Red Bull> love and are <Red Bull> interested in. So as long <Red Bull> as we keep <Red Bull> taking the <Red Bull> piss and diminishing <Red Bull> this approach <Red Bull> perhaps <Red Bull> they may listen?

Obey drink Red Bull
 GDes 05 Oct 2017
I thought it was alright. Free after all isn't it.

Did megos definitely add an extension to speed? ( speed integrale). I thought that ad been done by others previously

Redbull? I think its a company that sells sweatbands.
 Aly 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Jesus, that's awful. I only managed about half way before I had to turn it off.
 JuneBob 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

It's funny to have to click "skip ad"to watch this.
 Rad 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Arms Cliff:

Agree about Coup de Grace. That's the only reason I endured the first part of this video. Gag.

Here's Gabriele Moroni on it. Poor quality, but you can see all the moves: vimeo.com/23017425

Graham was see working it in Dosage 3 and then sending it in Dosage 4. Still one of my favorites.
In reply to Robert Durran:

> I imagine companies are lining up to sponsor the likes of Megos. I doubt there is any need for him to stoop as low as tarnishing his image with Red Bull to climb full time.

Red Bull have a pretty impressive set of athletes on their books. And the perks you get as a Red Bull athlete are exceptional. They must be pretty hard to turn down...

I'm not sure I can think of a comparable sponsor who is likely to be interested in climbing....

 wbo 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News: voralpsee looked a very good crag - I'd never seen that before. The product placements seemed no worse than usual to me.

 Robert Durran 06 Oct 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:
> Red Bull have a pretty impressive set of athletes on their books. And the perks you get as a Red Bull athlete are exceptional. They must be pretty hard to turn down.........

Well either they are exceptionally hard to turn down or the "athletes" have exceptionally few scruples seeing how they are required to sell their souls to the brand.
Post edited at 08:57
6
 Ben_Climber 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I agree with the RedBull hatred and personally not a fan of them.
However, from a business point of view, what do you expect? RedBull are out to make money. They send a content creation team out to make a video to advertise their athlete and brand. If the film maker returned to his boss with an edit that contained 0 product placement he would be fired!
Most FREE videos now are either amateur made or brand created (glorified adverts). Even the paid ones are usually sponsored meaning product placement.

It seems that decent films cost so much to make, when you take into account travel, equipment and editing time that they often have to be sponsored. Any sponsor would be stupid not to ask for product placement.

All that said, there are some amazing amateur climbing videos around!
 Arms Cliff 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Ben_Climber:

I think one can have product placement and well edited climbing footage in the same film, it doesn't have to be either/or. This looks like it was edited by someone who didn't have much of an idea about climbing, and we end up with a load of jump cuts of the climbing and a load of driving to the crag crap.

Among the hours of footage they've filmed there's an quality half an hour film showing off the best and hardest sport climbing in Switzerland, and within that there's be plenty of time for Alex to put on his sweat bands and his hat, and pretend to drink from a can.

Red Bull are involved with plenty of sports films that have turned out great, particularly in snowboarding, for me this is a missed opportunity in terms of the edit. If your 'content creators' (puke) are not coming up with something that appeals to the audience that it's aimed at (i.e. in this case climbers) then they're shit at their job.

 GrahamD 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I guess it doesn't help that I can't speak German. Having said that, its about what i'd expect for a freebie.

Overall verdict: Swiss Cheese
In reply to UKC News:

Alex Megos drinks Redbull... Alex Megos climbs 9a... therefore if I drink Redbull I will climb 9a!
 Ramon Marin 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Good bits of climbing and free video, who can complain! But very poor storytelling, a missing opportunity IMO. I think RedBull hasn't quite grasp the modern idea of content creation, more worried about forced sweatbands and can placements. Regardless, I'm happy for Megos bank account, he's talented and so deserves the support from corporate support despite us disliking Red Bull.
 lummox 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Ramon Marin:

What does Red Bull taste of btw ?
 Jon Greengrass 06 Oct 2017
In reply to lummox:

Thankfully, I've managed to forget
 alx 06 Oct 2017
In reply to lummox:

> What does Red Bull taste of btw ?

Regret
 GrahamD 06 Oct 2017
In reply to lummox:

> What does Red Bull taste of btw ?

Vimto with added sugar.
 lummox 06 Oct 2017
In reply to GrahamD:

Christ. I'll give it a miss then.
 Robert Durran 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Ben_Climber:
> Most FREE videos now are either amateur made or brand created (glorified adverts). Even the paid ones are usually sponsored meaning product placement.

But some of the best sponsored videos have hardly any product placement in them - certainly not "in your face" stuff and perhaps just the company name in the titles and credits (such as the excellent Mountain Equipment series on here a while ago). Given that it seems Red Bull possibly only get negative coverage and ridicule for this sort of nonsense among the target audience of climbers, I wonder whether a softly-softly approach might get more respect and be more effective as advertising; the fact that some companies take this approach suggests there must be mileage in it for them.
Post edited at 11:06
paulf38 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Em, if redbull hadn't funded this video there probably wouldn't be a video for you all to watch in the first place so quit moaning - it's just modern content marketing
10
 Harald 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Arms Cliff:

vimeo.com/23017425

Uncut second ascent vid.
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Well either they are exceptionally hard to turn down or the "athletes" have exceptionally few scruples seeing how they are required to sell their souls to the brand.

If I were good enough to be offered sponsorship by Red Bull, I'd snap their arm off!

Free travel any time anywhere, a decent salary, F1 tickets and access to the paddock, get to go surfing/skiing/snowboarding/skating/kayaking with some of the best surfers/skiers/snowboarders/skaters/kayakers on the planet, have access to exceptional sports physios and some of the best personal trainers, dieticians and sports psychologists... I mean... I could go on...

I guess it's what you want from your life... personally the above seriously appeals to me!
3
 Toerag 06 Oct 2017
In reply to GrahamD:

> Vimto with added sugar.

Really? Vimto's 'kin 'orrible. I find redbull and it's imitators have their own particular taste.
 Cellinski 06 Oct 2017
In reply to GDes:

Speed Integrale was (officially) first done by Cedric Lachat. It has been repeated a few times, also by local people. The grade of 9a for it is not undisputed. Some (Lachat, Siegrist) said the extension warrants bumping the grade from 8c+ to 9a, others (Favresse, my local sources) say not.

The extension is the final part of Lucy which is a hard 7c+ to the same height where Speed ends. The extension (for both Lucy and Speed) is short and a features a tricky ~7A boulder for which many seem to miss the optimal beta (as far as that universally exists). Some of those who gave 9a to Speed Integrale apparently used suboptimal beta on the extension. What I forgot - the extension bumps Lucy from hard 7c+ to a softish 8a+ and there is an ok shakeout at the chain of Speed before the extension starts.

AFAIK (second hand info from somebody who climbed the route and knows him personally) Beat Kammerlander deliberately put the anchor of Speed where it is today (hence without the extension which he personally had climbed before as extension to Lucy), because he was under the impression that "it doesn't add to the difficulty".
 planetmarshall 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Ben_Climber:

> However, from a business point of view, what do you expect? RedBull are out to make money.

Strangely enough, "making money" is not the raison d'être of every single corporate entity in existence. In fact, selling soft drinks is a rather crap way to make money in comparison to, say, running a hedge fund, or licensing a new fitness or diet fad to gullible health afficionados.

Not saying Red Bull are saints, but I find this necessity for climbing to be somehow free of corporate influence rather quaint. They do at least seem to care about the sport they are promoting, as do Sky Sports, yet I don't recall any mention of Molly Thompson-Smith "selling her soul" to the Murdoch empire.
1
 Robert Durran 06 Oct 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> If I were good enough to be offered sponsorship by Red Bull, I'd snap their arm off!

> Free travel any time anywhere, a decent ............. I could go on........

Yes, well I'm sure most of us have our price.
 jwi 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Requiring Athletes to choose their sponsors in a responsible manner out of public health concern is a neo-liberal delusion (and I'm pretty liberal). Public health problems like smoking, booze and sodas should be dealt with using regulation, at least if there is any form of will to do something about it.
Post edited at 17:59
 alx 06 Oct 2017
In reply to paulf38:

> Em, if redbull hadn't funded this video there probably wouldn't be a video for you all to watch in the first place so quit moaning - it's just modern content marketing

Would you like some Red Bull?
 douwe 06 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Running a hedge fund?!
 Chris_Mellor 06 Oct 2017
In reply to paulf38:

But paulf38 that's the point, for me, I don't want to watch the video and don't want it on UKC and think Alex Megos is an asshat for taking Red Bull's money to do this mediocre video. I don't buy the stupid idea that if I buy and drink Red Bull I can climb like Alex Megos. Only people with poo for brains think that. This whole celebrity-paid-money-to-use -and-promote-product idea is pants-and not the ones Beckham advertises either

As far as Red Bull climbing videos are concerned, and their ilk; Just. Go. Away.
4
Deadeye 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

WHAT. IS. THIS. SHIT?









































ffs
4
Deadeye 06 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

yet I don't recall any mention of Molly Thompson-Smith "selling her soul" to the Murdoch empire.

My recollection is different - she got a fair pasting I think
 Rad 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Arms Cliff:

Agreed. Maybe Red Bull can hire you to story-board their video edits for climbing vids.
 Knut R. 06 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, so it's advertising. Who cares? I enjoyed watching Megos climb some hard stuff, even if the video wasn't stellar.

Better than reviewing liability clauses in contracts...
 mbh 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

I guess that climbers are not the target audience. There are not enough for this brand to care about them. Rather, it's gullible people of all kinds who might be persuaded to associate drinking Red Bull with being amazing.
 Robert Durran 06 Oct 2017
In reply to mbh:

> I guess that climbers are not the target audience.

Not convinced. There will be very few non-climbers who know who Alex Megos is, let alone able to relate in any way to the grades. If Red Bull where making the video for non climbers, I think it would be far more full of all the Xtreme death defying Dude bollocks. I think it more likely it is aimed at climbers but just very badly off target - most climbers are not brain dead morons.
1
In reply to Knut R.:

> Yeah, so it's advertising. Who cares? I enjoyed watching Megos climb some hard stuff, even if the video wasn't stellar.

> Better than reviewing liability clauses in contracts...

Yes, this really is extraordinary. Because, when I first watched the video I was vaguely aware of Red Bull, so I've now gone back and looked at it again. Apart from the wrist bands (which are not there throughout) it's really quite low key. Apart from the little logo top right, and one swig from a Red Bull can which lasts for about a second, I couldn't see much else. From the fuss that's been made, anyone would think they're advertising cigarettes, dangerous drugs or spirits! This is the modern world (that most of the complainers have probably voted for, successively, through all our recent general elections!)

But the two huge thoughts that remain for me, after seeing this video and reading these criticisms, are:

1. The self-righteous, pious, sheer hypocrisy of it. I don't have a television, but I'm sure that most of these complainers, without turning a hair, are lapping up drivel on commercial television every day and night that's sponsored by thousands of advertisers, and are also supporting Rupert Murdoch via Sky News and our gutter press, every inch of the way.

2. A much bigger point – a very sad feature of most recent posts on UKC. Very little real interest or enthusiasm for climbing itself (and a concomitant lack of enthusiasm for sheer excellence when they see it). A lot of the pontificators here even profess to have done very little climbing.

That just about sums up what is most wrong with our (once dear) country now. A huge wall of ignorance, combined with cynicism and a complete lack of interest or enthusiasm for doing anything well or for anyone doing anything well. Sneer, sneer, sneer. Cut, cut, cut. These are the sad times we're now in.
4
 Robert Durran 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> A much bigger point – a very sad feature of most recent posts on UKC. Very little real interest or enthusiasm for climbing itself (and a concomitant lack of enthusiasm for sheer excellence when they see it). A lot of the pontificators here even profess to have done very little climbing.

Sorry, but I think that is patronising nonsense. There are large numbers of people on here with a vast enthusiasm for and knowledge of climbing. And, because of that, they know a good video when they see it.They are simply a discerning audience; good videos will be rightly praised, poor ones will be rightly criticised.

And of course we know excellence when we see it, but just because it is excellence doesn't mean it has been well filmed.
In reply to Robert Durran:

I thought it was rather well filmed, actually.
2
 planetmarshall 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Deadeye:

> yet I don't recall any mention of Molly Thompson-Smith "selling her soul" to the Murdoch empire.

> My recollection is different - she got a fair pasting I think

Got a link? I don't see any references searching on UKC.
Deadeye 06 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:



> Got a link? I don't see any references searching on UKC.

How did you search? This comes right up:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=600632
Deadeye 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Really? Chopped about like that?

I can see that it might be nice fo a non-climbing audience, but for the likely audience here it was far too fragmented and stuttering.
In reply to Deadeye:

That's the editing and not the shooting. Very different aspects of film making.
 planetmarshall 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Deadeye:

> How did you search? This comes right up:


That article is from 2014. I was referring to her 2017 Sky Sports sponsorship, hence the reference to the Murdoch empire.
Deadeye 06 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

And I was suggesting that, when it's tackily done, most of these examples get called out.
 Speed Reed 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

'most climbers are not brain dead morons'...speak for yourself!
In reply to Deadeye:

> Really? Chopped about like that?

> I can see that it might be nice fo a non-climbing audience, but for the likely audience here it was far too fragmented and stuttering.

It's cut just like a commercial, all very compressed and as you say, fragmented. I've just counted: there are 102 cuts (but I might have missed one or two). Some quite interesting. So much of what we watch every day is cut just like this. It kind of reflects the pace and superficiality of the modern world. It's done with some artistry. Many climbing films are the exact opposite: very slow and dull, and very badly cut.
 matthew jones 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Toerag:

I beg to differ. Vimto with lower sugar content.
 flaneur 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


> That's the editing and not the shooting. Very different aspects of film making.

The Editor drinks overcaffinated sugary drinks. The cameraman or woman drinks tea.
 mark s 07 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I couldn't get to the End, I had such an urge to run off to the shop to purchase a can of fizzy sugar filled over priced pish.

Surprised ukclimbing didn't reply to who ever sent it and say "sorry we ain't putting this on line because our member are more savvy than that"
 Fraser 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> That's the editing and not the shooting. Very different aspects of film making.

Yes, but you don't watch the filming you watch the final edit.

I too thought it was badly edited and therefore not very watchable.
In reply to Fraser:

> Yes, but you don't watch the filming you watch the final edit.

That is true. But it's also almost a truism that the better the editing the less aware of the editing one is, and conversely one probably becomes more aware of the strengths or weaknesses of the cinematography i.e the visual content/style.

Even the famous Kuleshov Experiment which relied entirely on the editing required a certain type of content in order to work. I.e. a locked-off medium close-up (head and shoulders) shot in which the actor showed no emotion whatever.

> I too thought it was badly edited and therefore not very watchable.

You are rightly complaining that the editing was annoying because one is too aware of it, i.e. it's too intrusive and unnecessarily bitty. Which is a classic way of jazzing something up, to make it seem more interesting than it really is (thus the vast majority of TV commercials do it). A pity in this case because the way Megos climbs is amazing, and one would just like to concentrate on that.

 Happy 07 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Looks like lots of folks seriously got their knickers in a twist here, when all we saw as a short video clip with an impressive tick list, with no more advertising than we see every day on TV, bill boards... When I think of the old climbing mags in the 80ies, then clearly they had just as much if not more advertisement, placed more crudely. Remember Kurt Albert and others in Xaver Bogner's Fire and Ice movie

Ticking this list in 10 days is amazing, a new level of fitness!

Admittedly the video is not very engaging and doesn't do justice to any of the routes. Would have been nice to see a bit more of the locals and hear a bit about the history, but how to do that in 6 mins, which is considerably longer than the average modern attention span???


 BrendanO 10 Oct 2017
In reply to lummox:

> What does Red Bull taste of btw ?

It's like Buckie without the alcohol content. Hence it's usually sold in clubs as a vodka mixer (not classy to drink Buckie indoors).

There's a thought for a climbing soonsor...BUCKFAST!!!! Dumby Dave, are you reading this?
 Chris_Mellor 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Hi Gordon. My 2 cents worth is that as a climbing video it was poor because the climbing sequences were short and cut. I wanted to see the skilful devil climbing and couldn't. It seemed to me Red Bull wanted to make a video for non-climbers to associate climbing glamour with drinking Red Bull. And non-climbers get bored with long sequences of climbing moves. Well, say I , piss out of our sport Red Bull Sh*t
1
 Fakey Rocks 12 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Actually i quite like this, it made me laugh, great to watch, so funny, but Alex, u might as well go a few steps more....
Please can we have a little burp on a balence move, with a caption bubble from your mouth "red bull burp balence adjustment", and a similar noise, from one of those fart cushions from the joke shops, + caption bubble from your derriere, on a rock over or dyno crux, saying "Red Bull farts powered dyno's", cos i know it works for me too etc, for full entertainment value.
Post edited at 16:45
 stp 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Happy:

> Ticking this list in 10 days is amazing, a new level of fitness!

It's certainly extremely impressive though not sure it represents a new level. Earlier in the year Adam Ondra climbed 6 grade 9 routes in 4 days. Even more impressive was the fact they weren't all 'mere' 9a's either. Two of the routes were 9a+ and two were 9b! I think that definitely represented a new level. For some strange reason the UKC news dept. chose not to report it though.

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