/ Alpine Butterfly for Sport

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chriskane - on 06 Oct 2017
Hello,

I was wondering if it would be feasible to drop a rope with several alpine butterfly knots tied at intervals which quickdraws could be clipped into for creating a sport route?

What are your thoughts?

-Chris
Jon Greengrass on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:

I saw a group of Germans do this at Stanage once.
GrahamD - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:

The only time I've done this has been on routes that turned out to be not as sound as I'd expected and I've resorted to putting quick draws on the abseil rope.

So yes, it is feasible for routes that are pretty much straight line and have solid (and accessible) places to belay the rope from.

Its a bit of a pain if its at all windy (probably best to weight down the end of the rope ) and the rope does tend to get in the way of the climbing.

You will ideally need a low stretch rope. Personally I'd just use overhand knots but alpine butterflies are a nice aesthetic knot which will also do the job.
ChrisBrooke - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:


> What are your thoughts?

It's feasible if it can be safely done. The more important question would be: what's the point?

Mike505 on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:

To test a line before committing funds to bolts?
Dave Williams - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to Mike505:

*If* it was for this reason, then it could as easily be shunted. If it turned out to be a feasible new line, drill hole locations could then be marked on the rock during a subsequent ascent.

Otherwise I too would ask 'why?'
Misha - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:
Consider the wear on the rope over edges. I'd be worried about that.
sammy5000 - on 06 Oct 2017
In reply to chriskane:

This is also known as the Cavel Greg self belay technique where knots are tied where gear is meant to be, so you can take some right whippers and also unclip yourself accidently and watch the rope swing into the distance at the top 10 years after at hodge close.
So just be careful of accidental soloing

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