In reply to paul mitchell:
> 'Crap' pegs are just a part of trad climbing.people can decide to try the route,to back off while on it,or even fork out and replace the pegs. Trad....what was that again?Trad....?
This is of course a load of tosh. The FA was completed with the benefit of new pegs. Pegs do not last that long before deteriorating into a dubious state. Of course you have to accept that risk to some degree but at what point are you taking on unnecessary, unmeasurable risk?
> Amazing the number of sport climbers that can get up French 6c but can't lead trad E2.That's because they never had practice playing the mind game.If they stick to bolts,that will probably always be the case.
This is again a total load of tosh. I don't know that many climbers who isolate their climbing in the UK. Sure in europe but most sport climbers also trad climb to a decent level. And I certainly don't know many who operate at 6c who wouldn't be able to climb E2 or at least E1. Yes there are specialists, but I reckon there are an equal number of E2 climbers who can't get up a 6c - I was one of them!
> Modern life,the easy fix of junk food climbing.We can't have danger in climbing,it's 2017!
You do like your high horse don't you? Of course you can have danger. At my local in Cheddar you can climb a bolted 8a right next to very necky E6 climbing. The choice is yours. Having been once to Horseshoe I'd say if ever there was a venue that's appropriate for bolted routes, that's it. A pretty ugly hole int he ground.