/ Suggestions for mixed routes to do in Alps

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im off - on 07 Oct 2017

In chamonix for another week.
Last week we climbed Frendo Spur in Scottish Mixed conditions. Top crux was full of loose ice. Found hard going but got to the top.
Can anyone suggest anything that may be similar. We like taking a beating. We were keen to look at grand jorasses but not in condition?
(Preferred if ice not loose)
Post edited at 18:54
im off - on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to im off:

Replying to myself. Is this allowed?
Wondered if anyone climbed ne spur of droites. Remember reading kirkpatrick account vaguely.
Airtime! - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to im off:

A friend who was in the Argy basin last week dissuaded us from the Droites. They did the Bettembourg-Thiege (sp.) in decent conditions. The jorasses is pretty dry... Not the best autumn for it so far
Pete Houghton - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to im off:
I took these yesterday, 08/10. Not the best quality, swirling cloud and patchy light didn't really help. Let me know if you can't access the pictures and I'll upload them somewhere other than Facebook.





(Edit... for those curious but unwilling to click the links and find out, or for anyone not familiar with the instantly-recognisable Argentiere north faces, these are a few photos of the Argentiere north faces)
Post edited at 22:31
Misha - on 09 Oct 2017
In reply to Pete Houghton:
Great last photo!

Fil a Plomb got done the other day. Reported to be thin but doable.
Pete Houghton - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Misha:

> Great last photo!

Thanks, he's a great model. Here he is admiring the GM ridge and the Verte earlier in the day. He was pretty bummed that we couldn't go for the first canine ascent of the Couturier, but we couldn't see a route across the glacier so we opted for Plan B instead.

Pete Houghton - on 10 Oct 2017
By the way, for more exiciting adventures from the world's most hardcore hound, feel free to take a peek at his #instagram, at https://www.instagram.com/baldricwonderdog

Also, Misha, you know these things... have people been trail running the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour recently? Is the glacier a bit gnarly at the moment? I know the Chardonnet has been fairly empty this year because of the state of the descent route...
Misha - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Pete Houghton:
Sorry, no idea. Didn't even know people did trail runs up the Tour! However from conditons reports (e.g. Alpine Rob) it sounds like the cols were in a pretty bad state towards the end of the summer.
Pete Houghton - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Misha:

Well, perhaps more "off-trail" than "trail", but yeah, people run the Voie Normal a lot, I've done it a couple of times solo and a few more times with friends. I think around this time either two or three years ago it was the fashionable route to do in trainers, sometimes bringing only granny spikes or nothing at all, because the route across the glacier was so healthy. But I think the low snow winter and the dry summer might have been cruel to a lot of the easier-access glacier routes.

I only ask because I've been away for the whole summer getting fat and lazy at sea level and have only recently come back, so my knowledge of conditions on the areas I usually spend a lot of time in is lacking. Thanks anyway!
im off - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Pete Houghton:

Thanks Pete.
We ended up doing dent du geant. Had it to ourselves. Will do a few rock routes. Dent was dry with patches of snow.
Them photos look great but ice routes look thin I guess.
alasdair19 on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Pete Houghton:

The tour glacier was described as appalling by one guide I know in late September
I guess you'll know if it's had enough snow since then..
JackM92 - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to im off:

Climbed the bettenborg thirave yesterday, vivagel looked ok too but a bit thin. Late to say I'm sorry has ice in the corners but we weren't close enough to see how thick it was.
Pete Houghton - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to alasdair19:

Yeah, I was up on the Col du Passon earlier today, the rest of the Tour Glacier looked horribly crunchy. I'd definitely not fancy doing it solo this autumn.
Tommy Harris - on 15:50 Tue
In reply to Misha:

Crikey.. fair play, the crevasse blocking entrance to this was huge a couple of weeks ago

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