/ NEWS: Mark Rankine repeats Divine Moments of Truth E10 7a

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UKC News - on 11 Oct 2017
Mark Rankine has made the first repeat of Franco Cookson's Divine Moments of Truth at Kay Nest, North Yorkshire. Franco graded the line E10 7a - or H10 as used by Franco to indicate a headpoint ascent - after completing the route in 2015.

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MischaHY - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Massive respect. Dodgy dyno with a potential ground fall from 15 metres... Sweet christ.
Wood for Trees on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent Mark, looking forward to seeing this, you're a valuable member of the climbing community.
Coel Hellier - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

> Mark discovered an alternative dyno method, which avoids the crimpy crux sequence and potentially lowers the grade.

Given that no-one is going to go for such a dyno on-sight (are they?), and given that E grades are supposedly for the on-sight (yes, I know they're not really at those sorts of grades), it would likely not reduce the E grade, only the H grade.
Ed Booth - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Didn't James pearson use the dyno method on End of the Affair?

Good effort Mark. Out of interest in the picture on the report looking towards the wall, how far out of the bottom of the hot is the ground. Would be good to see for context with the gear.
Franco Cookson on 11 Oct 2017
Hardonicus - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

'Finger jug' classic oxymoron if ever there was.

p.s. I overheard Andy Farnell in a queue for an ice cream van last week muttering something about it only being E5.
drysori - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great pic.
Russell Lovett - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Ed Booth:

I have some more shots of Mark on the route, now I've seen which one they have used in the article i,ll post another showing the full hight (it was taken face on looking up so there will be a bit of foreshortening of this massive piece of rock) of the wall. It may take a while for it to appear in the latest photos, but keep a eye out for it.
SenzuBean - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Given that no-one is going to go for such a dyno on-sight (are they?), and given that E grades are supposedly for the on-sight (yes, I know they're not really at those sorts of grades), it would likely not reduce the E grade, only the H grade.

The lowering of the E grade is also just as much from the extra cam placements no?
Russell Lovett - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Ed Booth:

Image showing Mark on divine now up on the latest photos page. You can get a better feel for the hight of the crag in this image, but be warned it is a little foreshorted because of the position it was taken from. The crux dyno goes from a the left curving flake about four feet up and left of his left hand.
Greasy Prusiks on 11 Oct 2017
Ed Booth - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Franco Cookson:

How does this compare Franco to your route Nothing lasts ??
Ed Booth - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Good work Mark. Looks a scary runout. Nice one
Si dH - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Effort Mark, looks amazing.
Michael Gordon - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Be interesting to see what future ascentionists make of this line. Whatever the grade, the route looks top notch.
Simon Caldwell - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Russell Lovett:

Blimey. If that's foreshortened then I'm even more impressed!
Jon Read - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> ... Whatever the grade, the route looks top notch.

Does it?? I'm sure it's a worthwhile experience, but it looks like a bit of a scruffy wall on a very scruffy buttress. I'm only going by the photos here, but it's no Widdop Wall, New Statesman, or Transcendence. Or am I being overly critical?

In reply to Jon Read:

No, I think you're right (or at least you are from the pictures I've seen).

Dare I say it, but I thought Franco's route Nothing Lasts eclipsed all the routes you have mentioned in terms of aesthetics - it really is that good. Couldn't believe it when I first saw it, could barely take my eyes of it! Would be great to see that repeated...
Ed Booth - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

It reminds me of the mean streak wall at Froggat
In reply to Ed Booth:

C'mon Ed, you know you want to - give it a toppie ;-)

I'd be keen for a return trip, as I bottled Leonardo and Salvation when I was last there. Think my brain was blown after doing Greenford Road, couldn't take any more stress!
paul mitchell - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

When Mark is good,he is very good.
JamieSparkes - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

are there any pictures of this kicking about?
galpinos on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to JamieSparkes:

There's a news report here, but the photos - at least to my mind - don't do the route justice (although the pictures of the fall certainly do!): https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71037/nothing_lasts_h10_7a_by_franco_cookson

For some reason the only photo I took of it was with my phone, but again I don't think it does the purity of the line justice: https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=300418
Jon Read - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Franco Cookson:

higher resolution -- you can see the old bolt holes or bolts with this one
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uRHh-By91Fo/T3I1rin51lI/AAAAAAAABvk/mr0gWAZ6_60/s1600/DSCF3190.JPG
gethin_allen on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Jon Read:

> higher resolution -- you can see the old bolt holes or bolts with this one


Who on earth bolted that? did they put enough bolts in it?
Jon Read - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to gethin_allen:

Who do you think? Someone from the aid days practising for the bigger ranges in the 50s or 60s.
Russell Lovett - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

If anyone does fancy a go at Nothing lasts and needs a photograph and does,nt mind me tagging along ( have transport and could meet you at the crag so as not to be to intrusive on your day) feel free to drop me a email through UKC, i missed Francos ascent and would love to get shos of someone doing this route.
Michael Gordon - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Jon Read:

> Does it?? I'm sure it's a worthwhile experience, but it looks like a bit of a scruffy wall on a very scruffy buttress. I'm only going by the photos here, but it's no Widdop Wall, New Statesman, or Transcendence. Or am I being overly critical?

I think it looks really good in the action shots, less so in the photos of the complete line. So depends which photos really. Obviously it's not a stunning arete a la New Statesman or Reservoir Dogs.
Malcolm Bass - on 14 Oct 2017
In reply to Jon Read:
This sub section of the thread seems to me to be about whether the route looks " top notch". Views on that are always going to be subjective, and, unless informed by a visit to the crag, largely derived from photos. And they will probably come from a point of view of looking at the route rather than from the route. I don't know Franco well but I hope I get part of his aesthetic: a sense of place seems important to him, as it is to me. I haven't climbed at Kay Nest, but have run past it on long slow moor top runs and seen that wall appear above an age old wood, which itself appears as a miracle after the heather desert and bulldozer wounds. It is far enough away from the day to day world that a project there would be something that would burn itself into a receptive psyche, it would be a joy to hold in the memory for as long as memory lasted. And to be on that wall, on the lead, in that place, with the "scruffiness" of the buttress and the obscurity making it all the more deliciously pointless: it works for me.
( full disclosure: I grew up in, and still live on the edge of, the north yorks moors)


Tom Last - on 14 Oct 2017
In reply to Malcolm Bass:

Nicely put
Wood for Trees on 15 Oct 2017
In reply to Malcolm Bass:

Well put

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