/ Visiting Canadian wants to climb! End of OCT!

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
L CDN Climber - on 11 Oct 2017
Hello everybody!

I'm coming to England from 24-31 October, and am looking for some locals from any region to share some English treasures! I have my personal gear (harness, belay, etc.), and lead up to 5.12 (E4-E5... depending on the conversion chart). I've been climbing for many years, and am happy to climb sport, trad, or boulders.

Please reply or send a message if you're looking for a future connection in Canada!

Cheers from Vancouver/Squamish!
Malcom
mattc - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to CDN Climber:
Hi mate. Where are you looking to climb? What sort of thing do you want to do?
Post edited at 19:11
L CDN Climber - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to mattc:

I have a friend near Bristol, so I'll be spending a couple days there. I am willing to go anywhere in England or Wales. Ideally, I'd love to get my teeth into a sport multi-pitch, but have no ticklist whatsoever. Totally open to any classic, anywhere!
Rock to Fakey - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to CDN Climber:
Cheddar, near Bristol, has some good multi pitch sport, one at about 6b+ /11b (which i'd have a go at) and 11c, also several harder ones. There aren't many multi pitch sport venues in uk, i don't think, but Malham Cove has some longer single pitches, Portland too.

Stone Cold Fever (6b+)
Space Tourist (6b+)
Castles Made of Sand (6c)
Bird of Paradise (7b+)
Paradise Lost (7b)

It might be tricky finding a partner for the last 2...?
Post edited at 20:58
stp - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to CDN Climber:

Would love to but I'm free the week before and the week after your visit

If you end up stuck though I could be up for some sport climbing in the Peak District from Mon to Fri with early finishes ( climb till about 3.30pm -ish).

BTW I don't think there are many proper multipitch sport routes in the UK. Longest tend to be about 40m though most routes are more like 20m.
lukehodson on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Don't go to cheddar! It's ok as a local crag but there's much, much better places to visit.

I'd strongly recommend Pembroke sea cliffs, brilliant in your grade range and the closest to world class climbing that the UK has.

Also consider the mountain crags (Lake District, Snowdonia) if the weather allows.
drysori - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to lukehodson:
> I'd strongly recommend Pembroke sea cliffs, brilliant in your grade range and the closest to world class climbing that the UK has.

You mean the best of the world class climbing the UK has, surely

To the OP: There isn't a lot of multipitch sport in the UK, and what there is generally of local interest only. It would be well worth the drive to Pembroke.

[Edit, can't spell]
Post edited at 12:50
Rock to Fakey - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to lukehodson:

Does Pembroke have multi pitch sport?
Haven't been but hopefully next year, + some mountain multis too, but that's trad in the uk.
drysori - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Rock to Fakey:

> Does Pembroke have multi pitch sport?

It doesn't have any sport at all. South Pembroke tends to be big single pitches (30-50m) or two pitch routes. In the north it's more varied, but rarely more than 2 pitches.

L CDN Climber - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

Great, thanks for the offer! I'll definitely let you know if I end up in the area on those days!
L CDN Climber - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to drysori:

I know there isn't quite as much height as BC, but I'm sure it's not that short! I'll look into Pembroke for sure!
drysori - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to CDN Climber:

I don't quite get you?

I'm not saying it's short. I'm saying that the multipitch sport climbing in the UK is not generally very good and there is very little of it. There's better single pitch sport, but the best stuff is the trad climbing.
AJM - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to CDN Climber:
As other have said, from Bristol go south and west to the sea cliffs and go tradding. The multipitch sport in the UK is unlikely to compare well to that which you could find anywhere else - there are multipitch sport routes on the slate which I've not done, but the weather at the end of October will be unpredictable. I wouldn't bother driving 2 hours from my home for any of the multipitch sport at Cheddar, which is the other obvious choice, and I say this as an ex Cheddar local who has thoroughly enjoyed a lot of the single pitch testpieces.

At that time of year, for the best taste of the uk, Cornish or Pembroke seacliffs first off and grit routes/bouldering second would be my recommendation.

Edit: given you've flown across the Atlantic, if your heart is set on multi pitch sport then get a cheap flight to somewhere in the South of France and go and do something properly world class like the Verdon. Seriously.
Post edited at 18:18
L CDN Climber - on 15 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

I`'ll be heading to France after this, so I'll be sure to check out the climbing in the south! Thanks for the advice!

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.