/ First Taste of Slate

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
aceagles - on 12 Oct 2017
I'm looking to head to the quarries next month for my first punt at slate.
I've had the guidebook for over a year now and never made it up there, going for Ogwen etc every time I'm in the area.

What would people recommend for a good first day out on the slate?
I'm leading HVS on limestone and have a faithful girlfriend willing to second me up almost anything
climbEdclimb - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to aceagles:
The slate is incredible. Probably my favourite rock type. Some say the slate is soft in grading compared to other places, others say it isn't (I'm not going to start a debate on that), either way it is truly a great place to climb and just being in the quarries is an experience.
Here is a select list of well traveled, but ultimately still enjoyable HVS (ish) routes. I'm sure others more experience than I shall suggest other equally worthwhile routes!

Solstice is cool. And whilst you are there may as well do Equinox as well (VS 4c).
Solstice (HVS 5a)

Looning the tube. Its a good route. Arguments prevail over the grade as to whether it is E1 or HVS (and IMO I would err towards HVS).
Looning the Tube (E1 5a)

Seamstress is fine and whilst you are there you could look at Seams the Same which is just to the side of it (although this is E1 5b).
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7407
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7408

If you are feeling brave then there are plenty of E1s I would recommend but I will leave that up to you.
Also a well mentioned 'wet weather' option for the slate is Snakes and Ladders (its also just a great way to explore more of the quarries) although get on the climbing first, save it for a rest day!
Snakes And Ladders (and Tunnels) (HVS)

Enjoy!
Post edited at 09:08
james.slater - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to aceagles:

The slate is a little short of proper classics below E1, but I would recommend Australia quarry for the best of the bunch. Something like the West Face of Australia (Link Up) (E1 5b) might be a good idea? There are usually a few choices on each level at those grades, so mix and match how you want! Alternatively, just wander up the levels, and lots of HVS ish trad can be found, along with some sub-6a sport routes
eb202 - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to aceagles:

Some good suggestions already. I'd agree that Looning the Tube is HVS and haven't come across many yet who think it's E1. Another HVS to add to your list is Mental Lentils - it has 2 bolts and a couple of gear placements and is very enjoyable. Slate it great, enjoy! Take plenty of small wires and watch out for wobbly flakes and loose rock.
Pekkie - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to climbEdclimb:

I know the name Seams the Same implies that it is the same grade as Seamstress but be careful here. Seamstress feels like a straightforward VS while Seams the Same feels tricky and difficult to protect - more like E2. Just my opinion!
ianstevens - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Pekkie:

Seams the same is miles away from E2 - softish E1 IMO.
ian Ll-J - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to aceagles:

For Slate Sport at your Grade:-

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=956
Pekkie - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to ianstevens:

Maybe. But Seams the Same and Seamstress are not the same grade. Despite the names.

james.slater - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Pekkie:

I have to agree with the Seams the same comments, I also found it tricky to protect, but the climbing was fine. Still E1 for me, you just have to be confident
ianstevens - on 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Pekkie:

Nobody ever said that they were. I don't know if you're aware, but Flying Buttress and Flying Buttress Direct on Stanage are also different grades. This is the biglyiest ever confusion, and we must fix it now.
spidermonkey09 - on 13 Oct 2017
Minneconjou Sioux - on 15:28 Fri
In reply to aceagles:
Bella Lugosi is dead. E1 (?). Take a #3 friend (check this as it is from memory) with you.

TBF this might actually be E1, especially with the run out at the top (especially if you don't have any Cams)
Post edited at 15:38
Sean Kelly - on 16:16 Fri
In reply to james.slater:
Perfect rock 4 if you know where to place it!
There's also the easyish sport routes to the left of Fool's Gold, past the very loose rock!
Post edited at 16:18
Pekkie - on 17:23 Fri
In reply to ianstevens:

Flying Buttress and Flying Buttress Direct are obviously different routes. Stevie Haston soloed both the slate routes on the same day in the 80s and called one Seamstress and one Seams the Same - the latter implies that he found them about the same grade. Maybe they were then but they're not now. Many slate routes have changed over the years e.g. The Dervish on which many small holds have disappeared and several gear placements have 'appeared'. I suspect this is what has happened with the Seamstress routes so one is now VS and one is E1. Why am I wasting time on this? Duh...
Minneconjou Sioux - on 19:51 Fri
In reply to Pekkie:

> Flying Buttress and Flying Buttress Direct are obviously different routes. Stevie Haston soloed both the slate routes on the same day in the 80s and called one Seamstress and one Seams the Same - the latter implies that he found them about the same grade. Maybe they were then but they're not now. Many slate routes have changed over the years e.g. The Dervish on which many small holds have disappeared and several gear placements have 'appeared'. I suspect this is what has happened with the Seamstress routes so one is now VS and one is E1. Why am I wasting time on this? Duh...

I beg to disagree. Seamstress and Seems the same have always been very different routes and, when Stevie Haston climbed them, I suspect he was being ironic. My memory says that he called it "seems the same" specifically because it wasn't.
ianstevens - on 20:52 Fri
In reply to Pekkie:

Seams the same also used to get E3.
baron - on 23:19 Fri
In reply to ianstevens:

E2 5b. 1987 Llanberis guide.
string arms - on 20:38 Sun
In reply to aceagles:

I wouldn't recommend a first taste of slate. I did and it broke all my teeth. Tasted shite too. Stick with food. Lots more taste and variety and kinder to the enamel

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.