UKC

Southern Sandstone Open Meeting ? Isolated Buttress

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 Trangia 15 Oct 2017
I have been away in Spain and missed the Open Meeting last week, although I made my views known by email prior to my departure.

What was the outcome of the discussion regarding access to the Isolated Butress?
 Rob892 17 Oct 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I've heard it was a 50:50 split in votes between bridge or no bridge.
OP Trangia 17 Oct 2017
In reply to Rob892:

Thanks for the heads up.

Now what, I wonder?
 Oceanrower 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Daimon - Rockfax:

Unless I'm missing something, saying that they're monitoring the situation (for three years so far) is hardly an "update"
 Slarti B 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Oceanrower:

I think they are aiming for a 2 year transitional arrangement but with no clear idea of the objective after that.

Maybe Theresa May could arrange lunch with the Chair of the SVG to accelerate the decision
 Daimon - Rockfax Global Crag Moderator 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Oceanrower:

Basically, the HRMG have now entered an extended period of discussion. I.e more time is needed to evaluate the facts and evidence. So yes it is an update as people were probably thinking that the HRMG would be making a snap decision, where in fact there is a lot more to this and more to discuss.
 Offwidth 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Rob892:

Maybe they should build a bridge to halfway?
XXXX 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Daimon - Rockfax:

Maybe the next period of 'observation' should include some form of analysis and actual, you know, observations, rather than waiting two years and hoping somehow everyone has changed their mind.


OP Trangia 18 Oct 2017
In reply to Slarti B:

> I think they are aiming for a 2 year transitional arrangement but with no clear idea of the objective after that.

2 years! I'll be 75 by then, and will need a f*cking bridge

 Daimon - Rockfax Global Crag Moderator 23 Oct 2017
In reply to XXXX:

I think you misunderstand. There is no longer a period of observation. That has now closed. This is an extended period of discussion to allow for a number of other items to be discussed which have come to light (from the period of observation). Also, there has been a lot of observation going on, much more than people think.
 Oliver Hill 30 Oct 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I think one of the main points of the meeting was that if you need a bridge to get on the IB, you probably are not up to climbing on the IB without frigging. There are easier places to climb.Part of climbing is being able to judge your capabilities.
1
In reply to Oliver Hill:

What are people doing about it now? I remember that you could climb quite safely, even doing it as a roped lead, by the 'Boulder Bridge Route' (2b). You back and foot up the wide chasm behind IB to a break, then sidle along to the 'boulder' (here placing a huge thread runner) then traverse very pleasantly at about 2a/b across the top of Wailing Wall round Crowborough Arete, thence to top very easily. A good long route in its own right, actually. I'm fairly sure I've reversed it too quite easily.

The undergraded Isolated Buttress Climb ("4c") – surely 5a, even by SS standards? – is a very scary solo (IMHO) and would be much/even harder in descent.

PS. 'In the mountains', Boulder Bridge Route would probably be given something like [Ogwen] 'Hard Very Difficult' or 'Mild Severe'
Post edited at 23:53
 tonanf 31 Oct 2017
In reply to Oliver Hill:

to make the climg up to the jammed boulder then up roind its right hand side very secure, all that would be needed would be to harden two handholds. first under the lip at the top of the mini slab (horizontal pocket) then round on the right side(vertical jug). make those hand holds secure with resin or hardener then its solid, secure 3a up and down. and if you cant up and down that no prob you wont be able to do any of the routes anyway.
 Gwain 31 Oct 2017
In reply to Trangia:

Something like this I think ????????????

Monty Python's Life of Brian - Scene 21, the committee meeting - YouTube youtube.com/watch?v=55fqjw2J1vI&
 Rob892 31 Oct 2017
In reply to Oliver Hill:

I don't think it is always to do with climbing ability. There are quite a few grade 4-5's on IB, but being able to climb them doesn't mean you are comfortable with a 10m solo.

I'm not sure about a bridge though, there's always someone who wants to go up.

I've seen people take the run and jump option this year.
 DampRice 31 Oct 2017
In reply to Oliver Hill:
I strongly dislike this argument. There are a lot of very strong climbers who do not like the solo traverse in.

I don't count myself as strong but have now climbed most of the routes on the buttress (wooly bear will go soon!) and bloody hate the solo. I don't feel it is secure at all no matter how low the technical grade, and it is getting really rather worn. I have solo'd a fair few routes at harrisons but this one is awful.

As far as I understand the options are do nothing, or build a bridge.

For me the bridge is preferable out of those two. It is by far the most similar to how the situation was originally with a small step across being the barrier. Maybe leave a plank out in the middle.
Post edited at 13:57

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