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Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181 (x) (/)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (/)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (/) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (/) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=672414&v=1
TheFasting: Do you get out during the week in the evening or during the day (presuming the nights will draw in pretty fast soon?)
Tom Green: Well done on the MTG! I think as you say, to balance your goals, a seasonal approach may work well. I’m sure putting time into pushing your trad grade will help winter/alpine climbing? (Just don’t get into the habit of spending 45 minutes on a single pitch of grit)
Tyler: Congrats on the 7c tick! Getting your BUK money’s worth his week
mattrm: 3 weeks to do 400 push ups- 19 a day, no problem
mrchewy: Did you think of a goal for the next 3 weeks?
guy127917: Good work with nutrition changes.
AlanLittle: Sounds like you are really aware of the fatigue signals from your body- really good stuff.
Si dH: Great stuff, very sensible move to hold something back on the fingerboard session!
AJM: Enjoy Kalymnos, let us know how you get on next week.
biscuit: Your circuitboard challenge sounds like a pretty good workout- 80 moves (if i understood correctly) is long!
hms: I hope you like the new yoga class.
Dandan82: What eccentric exercises are you using? “re align the muscle/tendon fibres” possible hooey- but if it seems to work then it doesn’t matter. Si’s comments seemed pretty spot on.
JenJones: Nice to see the 555 goal have pushed you a bit. The leading goals you mentioned are not specific enough though- how will you know when you have completed ‘mileage’
Ally Smith: Congrats on the FA. Do you get to name it?
hokkyousei: How did the marathon go?
the sheep: How are you tumble turns?
snoop: Sorry to hear the wrist didn’t play ball. Have you had a doctor or similar look at it?
Bobling: I assume you meant 2018 in your goals rather than 2017?
Just Tintin: We have monkey bars at the gym but we have to call it a ‘functional strength cage’ now
2
In reply to guy127917:
The "FA" was a minor locals link-up, of no particular quality or difficulty - naming it would be a bit facetious!
Week 42
M - Nowt - Hungover.
T - Tor again. 3 RPs on Cave problem stand/Green Alternative (8a+). Fell from the lip/move to high crimp each time. Quick go on Short Chimes to try some new beta – didn’t work for the tall – reverted to old way of go again for highest crimp. Too spangled for any bouldering. Left index a little tweaky on chimes crimp rail.
W - Shoulder prehab, core and antagonists. Much bigger effort than previous weeks – more sets, more reps & bigger weights. 4sets 40kg OHP. 8,7,7,5 reps – harder than previous weeks. 3sets 6rep 76kg deadlifts. 4sets 10 rep 40kg barbell wrist curl too.
T - Glad to say that for once the weights didn’t give me DOMS. Finally seeing some adaptation!
F - Nowt – feeling aggrieved by news from work, so went out for a drink; which turned into a few…
S - Tor again. Warm and humid. Had to wait for RP clouds. Repeated The Green Alternative (7c+) whilst warming up, then 4 RPs on Cave Alternative. Best go holding the high crimp, but couldn’t adjust and get it proper. Discovered I need to use a toe-jam to make this move more efficient. Boulder, playing on HARD stuff…
Then dogged Sardine (7b+) to warm down – whoops – might have gone too hard on the bouldering!
S - Shopping, gardening and house stuff. Feeling increasingly grotty this afternoon – hope I haven’t got lurgy as go on holiday next weekend.
The "FA" was a minor locals link-up, of no particular quality or difficulty - naming it would be a bit facetious!
Week 42
M - Nowt - Hungover.
T - Tor again. 3 RPs on Cave problem stand/Green Alternative (8a+). Fell from the lip/move to high crimp each time. Quick go on Short Chimes to try some new beta – didn’t work for the tall – reverted to old way of go again for highest crimp. Too spangled for any bouldering. Left index a little tweaky on chimes crimp rail.
W - Shoulder prehab, core and antagonists. Much bigger effort than previous weeks – more sets, more reps & bigger weights. 4sets 40kg OHP. 8,7,7,5 reps – harder than previous weeks. 3sets 6rep 76kg deadlifts. 4sets 10 rep 40kg barbell wrist curl too.
T - Glad to say that for once the weights didn’t give me DOMS. Finally seeing some adaptation!
F - Nowt – feeling aggrieved by news from work, so went out for a drink; which turned into a few…
S - Tor again. Warm and humid. Had to wait for RP clouds. Repeated The Green Alternative (7c+) whilst warming up, then 4 RPs on Cave Alternative. Best go holding the high crimp, but couldn’t adjust and get it proper. Discovered I need to use a toe-jam to make this move more efficient. Boulder, playing on HARD stuff…
Then dogged Sardine (7b+) to warm down – whoops – might have gone too hard on the bouldering!
S - Shopping, gardening and house stuff. Feeling increasingly grotty this afternoon – hope I haven’t got lurgy as go on holiday next weekend.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy, nice write up.
No, I didn't come up with a new goal, short of get the shoulder sorted for Font. After bailing on climbing at Rubicon last Sunday, the shoulder/rotator cuff was agony until Wednesday morning when I decided to phone the physio and luckily got an appointment for 11am.
Mon - Off work. Lots of internal/external/flexibility stuff.
Tue - Off work. Same as yesterday.
Wed - Off work. Trip to physio. Rehab work.
Thu - Rehab stuff in the evening.
Fri - Rehab is helping.
Sat - Rested after work. I was a bit achy.
Sun - Planned big walk but made mistake of doing rehab first thing this morning and was far too sore after to be going walking
The physio diagnosed a solid thoracic spine, especially the upper part, as the cause of the impingement. So all the shoulder work I was doing wasn't addressing the problem at all, although he did say my shoulder mobility is okay which was a positive. He took me in the gym, isolated certain movements and I couldn't do much at all. Now, five days later, I have full movement back doing things with my arms in which I had maybe 20% mobility - a huge improvement!
Basically, I'm rolling my thoracic to hell and back. Light weights on the Swiss ball. Nothing other than basic stuff but targeting the right place. The inflammation where the rotator cuff has been impinging is still there, still painful and the arm goes weak in certain movements but I'm guessing that'll take a little time to calm down. The physio thinks by Font I'll be okay but no climbing at the moment and if I'm honest, hanging hurts still anyway.
I guess all the laybacking in Switzerland after not much climbing earlier this year and this one move at Rubicon over and over was a bit much and everything tensed up - on the road to recovery now tho. I guess 8hrs of rehab stuff since Wednesday and if I keep that up, all will be well. As a bonus, the tweaked knee is healing really well
Thanks guy, nice write up.
No, I didn't come up with a new goal, short of get the shoulder sorted for Font. After bailing on climbing at Rubicon last Sunday, the shoulder/rotator cuff was agony until Wednesday morning when I decided to phone the physio and luckily got an appointment for 11am.
Mon - Off work. Lots of internal/external/flexibility stuff.
Tue - Off work. Same as yesterday.
Wed - Off work. Trip to physio. Rehab work.
Thu - Rehab stuff in the evening.
Fri - Rehab is helping.
Sat - Rested after work. I was a bit achy.
Sun - Planned big walk but made mistake of doing rehab first thing this morning and was far too sore after to be going walking
The physio diagnosed a solid thoracic spine, especially the upper part, as the cause of the impingement. So all the shoulder work I was doing wasn't addressing the problem at all, although he did say my shoulder mobility is okay which was a positive. He took me in the gym, isolated certain movements and I couldn't do much at all. Now, five days later, I have full movement back doing things with my arms in which I had maybe 20% mobility - a huge improvement!
Basically, I'm rolling my thoracic to hell and back. Light weights on the Swiss ball. Nothing other than basic stuff but targeting the right place. The inflammation where the rotator cuff has been impinging is still there, still painful and the arm goes weak in certain movements but I'm guessing that'll take a little time to calm down. The physio thinks by Font I'll be okay but no climbing at the moment and if I'm honest, hanging hurts still anyway.
I guess all the laybacking in Switzerland after not much climbing earlier this year and this one move at Rubicon over and over was a bit much and everything tensed up - on the road to recovery now tho. I guess 8hrs of rehab stuff since Wednesday and if I keep that up, all will be well. As a bonus, the tweaked knee is healing really well
Post edited at 20:05
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos .
MTG:
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Last training week before Kalymnos. My endurance, in terms of ability & willingness to keep going when tired is as good as it has ever been. But will it be enough for 40 metre overhanging tufa-fests? Not confident at this point. Showed the cover of the guidebook to my son: his reaction "and *you* want to climb *that*?"
M: Rest. Shoulders & elbow theraband work.
T: Fingerboard repeaters (evening).
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Last harder session before pre-Kaly taper. Eight routes up to around onsight level. Was definitely feeling yesterday's fingerboard session at the start, but then was fine after warming up.
T: Rest. 20 minutes mobility & stretching
F: Bike one hour
Wall, Boulderwelt. Following Mr Barrows' advice to keep volume down but intensity up when tapering, did half an hour of light bouldering to warm up then a few burns on hard circuits.
S: Rest
S: Rest
STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos .
MTG:
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Last training week before Kalymnos. My endurance, in terms of ability & willingness to keep going when tired is as good as it has ever been. But will it be enough for 40 metre overhanging tufa-fests? Not confident at this point. Showed the cover of the guidebook to my son: his reaction "and *you* want to climb *that*?"
M: Rest. Shoulders & elbow theraband work.
T: Fingerboard repeaters (evening).
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Last harder session before pre-Kaly taper. Eight routes up to around onsight level. Was definitely feeling yesterday's fingerboard session at the start, but then was fine after warming up.
T: Rest. 20 minutes mobility & stretching
F: Bike one hour
Wall, Boulderwelt. Following Mr Barrows' advice to keep volume down but intensity up when tapering, did half an hour of light bouldering to warm up then a few burns on hard circuits.
S: Rest
S: Rest
1
In reply to guy127917:
Not a vintage training week for me, but very happy to say this weekend I completed my main goal for 555, my first outdoor 7a+ tick- Appleturnoverload! It only took about 5-6 goes which gives me a lot of confidence going into my Spain trip in November. I haven't set trip goals yet- maybe another 7a+ and a 7b? (Spanish grades are soft right?!)
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Good session on the wave, 4 reps of a short 7a route with 1:30 rest (about 1:2 work-rest), 8x 1-3-5s
Wednesday: BM1000 6A fingerboard session (2 sets using 6 reps 100% completed, + 1 set of 5A to warm up)
Thursday: OK session on the wave and then general bouldering session.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Sent Appleturnoverload and got on Medusa Falls (7a) for a couple of tries, it felt pretty comfortable on top rope, I'm sure this will go next session.
Sunday: Spent a good while on a TR on Dumbfounded 7b at The Cuttings. Surprisingly (to me) I can do all the moves now (couldn't in April)- took me a good while today to get them all sorted. Putting it together on lead will be a challenge, but seems plausible. We will be back next weekend, and possibly one more before Spain. I would certainly be overachieving my goals if I sent 7b before the trip!
This week I have my first few things to work on nutrition-wise. The main goal is to keep a log quantifying hunger-level before and after I eat. I'm not really supposed to be actively trying to change my diet at this stage, but I'm aiming to get through this work week (only 3 days) without any sort of binge eating behaviour. It would be the first for a long time.
Other than that, this week I aim to do a good boulder session on the wave, some AeroCap work, foot on campus session, a long run, send Medusa Falls, O/S Flowers On Razor Wire 6c and Lizard of Oz 6a and put some more work into Dumbfounded.
Not a vintage training week for me, but very happy to say this weekend I completed my main goal for 555, my first outdoor 7a+ tick- Appleturnoverload! It only took about 5-6 goes which gives me a lot of confidence going into my Spain trip in November. I haven't set trip goals yet- maybe another 7a+ and a 7b? (Spanish grades are soft right?!)
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Good session on the wave, 4 reps of a short 7a route with 1:30 rest (about 1:2 work-rest), 8x 1-3-5s
Wednesday: BM1000 6A fingerboard session (2 sets using 6 reps 100% completed, + 1 set of 5A to warm up)
Thursday: OK session on the wave and then general bouldering session.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Sent Appleturnoverload and got on Medusa Falls (7a) for a couple of tries, it felt pretty comfortable on top rope, I'm sure this will go next session.
Sunday: Spent a good while on a TR on Dumbfounded 7b at The Cuttings. Surprisingly (to me) I can do all the moves now (couldn't in April)- took me a good while today to get them all sorted. Putting it together on lead will be a challenge, but seems plausible. We will be back next weekend, and possibly one more before Spain. I would certainly be overachieving my goals if I sent 7b before the trip!
This week I have my first few things to work on nutrition-wise. The main goal is to keep a log quantifying hunger-level before and after I eat. I'm not really supposed to be actively trying to change my diet at this stage, but I'm aiming to get through this work week (only 3 days) without any sort of binge eating behaviour. It would be the first for a long time.
Other than that, this week I aim to do a good boulder session on the wave, some AeroCap work, foot on campus session, a long run, send Medusa Falls, O/S Flowers On Razor Wire 6c and Lizard of Oz 6a and put some more work into Dumbfounded.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
This week:
Mon: rest
Tues: 3.15 mile run in the day. Climbing in the evening. Spent some time on the wave - current project climb is 10 moves, I managed it in two parts apart from the very last move. Can do 7/10 moves before failure. Sent another 7a on top rope this week which I tried a week ago. Did feet off campus ladders and also work on the slopers. Was a pretty fun session and I felt pretty strong.
Weds: beastmaker 5A session. This was one of my 555 goals and I managed with room spare so going to have a go at the 5B session next week.
Thurs: 2.9 miles run in the day. Climbing in the evening. Started another project on the wave which is a little harder and only 8 moves long. I have completed 4 of the moves and am feeling stronger. Worked hard in the pen to get some moves on the overhang working towards my V5 boulder project. Got further with an overhanging sloper V4 problem which I think is within reach.
Fri: Ran 6.2 miles - still working on heart rate training. Haven't figured out quite how it works yet but this was a very slow run to keep my heart rate below 170.
Sat: Portland - Lead a 6a which had previously eluded me so this completes one of my 555 goals. Lead a 5+, got all the moves on a 7a+ which I think I should be able to send clean next time.
Sun: red pointed a 5+, got most of the moves on a 7b, just got to get the last few which also happen to be the crux! Felt pretty shaky on a 6a layback. Not feeling overly confident leading but getting on some climbs and red pointing which helps.
The 555 goals have definitely pushed me to do things I would have taken a lot longer over otherwise. The leading goals were something I was thinking about a lot and you are right, 'mileage' is too vague. I will think about that this week. Perhaps something like leading 5 climbs each time I go to the climbing wall and 3 outside each day on rock. This can be quite hard for me as I find it difficult to pull myself away from harder projects on top rope but I think it is something I really need to focus on. I would say most of the time I am not really enjoying leading and I would like to make it more fun again. I'm putting myself under a lot of pressure and feel a certain cut off when something just seems too uncomfortable. I'm off to Spain in a month to sport climb so would really like to have advanced by then.
On the whole my climbing has improved a lot. I am very happy with the gains in strength and I seem to have increased my endurance. My main blocker at the moment is with lead climbing.
Hi Guy,
This week:
Mon: rest
Tues: 3.15 mile run in the day. Climbing in the evening. Spent some time on the wave - current project climb is 10 moves, I managed it in two parts apart from the very last move. Can do 7/10 moves before failure. Sent another 7a on top rope this week which I tried a week ago. Did feet off campus ladders and also work on the slopers. Was a pretty fun session and I felt pretty strong.
Weds: beastmaker 5A session. This was one of my 555 goals and I managed with room spare so going to have a go at the 5B session next week.
Thurs: 2.9 miles run in the day. Climbing in the evening. Started another project on the wave which is a little harder and only 8 moves long. I have completed 4 of the moves and am feeling stronger. Worked hard in the pen to get some moves on the overhang working towards my V5 boulder project. Got further with an overhanging sloper V4 problem which I think is within reach.
Fri: Ran 6.2 miles - still working on heart rate training. Haven't figured out quite how it works yet but this was a very slow run to keep my heart rate below 170.
Sat: Portland - Lead a 6a which had previously eluded me so this completes one of my 555 goals. Lead a 5+, got all the moves on a 7a+ which I think I should be able to send clean next time.
Sun: red pointed a 5+, got most of the moves on a 7b, just got to get the last few which also happen to be the crux! Felt pretty shaky on a 6a layback. Not feeling overly confident leading but getting on some climbs and red pointing which helps.
The 555 goals have definitely pushed me to do things I would have taken a lot longer over otherwise. The leading goals were something I was thinking about a lot and you are right, 'mileage' is too vague. I will think about that this week. Perhaps something like leading 5 climbs each time I go to the climbing wall and 3 outside each day on rock. This can be quite hard for me as I find it difficult to pull myself away from harder projects on top rope but I think it is something I really need to focus on. I would say most of the time I am not really enjoying leading and I would like to make it more fun again. I'm putting myself under a lot of pressure and feel a certain cut off when something just seems too uncomfortable. I'm off to Spain in a month to sport climb so would really like to have advanced by then.
On the whole my climbing has improved a lot. I am very happy with the gains in strength and I seem to have increased my endurance. My main blocker at the moment is with lead climbing.
3
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - 30 push ups
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
Well I managed 120 push ups this week. So if I can keep that going, doing another 400 in the next few weeks should be possible. We had a nice family week in Bluestone. Got plenty of sleep and we did lots of gentle strolling around the place. I did take running shoes but didn't get the time/energy to do that. Things are going well on the baby front as well, which is nice. It's all settling down nicely now he's a bit older.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - 30 push ups
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
Well I managed 120 push ups this week. So if I can keep that going, doing another 400 in the next few weeks should be possible. We had a nice family week in Bluestone. Got plenty of sleep and we did lots of gentle strolling around the place. I did take running shoes but didn't get the time/energy to do that. Things are going well on the baby front as well, which is nice. It's all settling down nicely now he's a bit older.
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. This week went well to plan on the training front. The weekend was a 3 day trip to take Sol to see his grandparents and great grandma, which resulted in a predictably high calorie intake. My mum makes awesome homemade ice cream and they always have about three flavours on the go in the freezer...
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: Shoulder stuff - 4 x 5 low rows, reverse flies and IYTs plus a couple of 10 second prone flies.
T: shoulder work as Monday plus fingerboard max hangs. Max hangs same as last week but I managed -11kg for a full 10 seconds on the middle (20mm) bm2000 edge with each arm half crimping, 4 or 5 reps. I also did a couple of bodyweight two arm hangs on the ceiling pinches ie beams.
W: rest
T: Climbing Unit. Felt hungry after work, just did a bunch of the pink circuit. Some of them felt pretty tough for v2-4!
F: rest
S: rest
S: Squeezed in another max hang session this evening, plus half a shoulder workout. Max hangs were good: as per Tuesday, but also did a couple of 3 finger 1 arm open hand max hangs on the good slots without any batteries (about 30mm?) With - 6.8 kg.
On the 20 mm edge and bigger, once warmed up my right hand now feels full strength. However on a smaller edge (eg 2 armed on 18mm ie the AA battery edge) it's still not quite there.
Thanks Guy. This week went well to plan on the training front. The weekend was a 3 day trip to take Sol to see his grandparents and great grandma, which resulted in a predictably high calorie intake. My mum makes awesome homemade ice cream and they always have about three flavours on the go in the freezer...
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: Shoulder stuff - 4 x 5 low rows, reverse flies and IYTs plus a couple of 10 second prone flies.
T: shoulder work as Monday plus fingerboard max hangs. Max hangs same as last week but I managed -11kg for a full 10 seconds on the middle (20mm) bm2000 edge with each arm half crimping, 4 or 5 reps. I also did a couple of bodyweight two arm hangs on the ceiling pinches ie beams.
W: rest
T: Climbing Unit. Felt hungry after work, just did a bunch of the pink circuit. Some of them felt pretty tough for v2-4!
F: rest
S: rest
S: Squeezed in another max hang session this evening, plus half a shoulder workout. Max hangs were good: as per Tuesday, but also did a couple of 3 finger 1 arm open hand max hangs on the good slots without any batteries (about 30mm?) With - 6.8 kg.
On the 20 mm edge and bigger, once warmed up my right hand now feels full strength. However on a smaller edge (eg 2 armed on 18mm ie the AA battery edge) it's still not quite there.
Post edited at 22:22
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
Yes you read it right. 80 moves x 8. More about time than moves tbh. I can get a long route done indoors in a couple of minutes but for what i'm going to chorro for (mileage, on-sighting and some quick redpoints of failed on-sights) I felt the need to test my endurance.
Poor week last week and this will be similar.
75 miles on bike done. Nice to see i'm still getting faster consistently. Strava has turned me into a competitive monster (with myself). No matter how tired I am once I start strava I push myself.
This may be why I've been really tired this week Joking aside I was pretty wiped out Fri and Sat and only just managed to convince myself to get on the fingerboard today. That happened last week as well. Need to concentrate on mid week sleep.
Grabbed a few laps of the 7a circuit at The Depot after coaching on Wednesday. Fun session after the BLCC's so I climbed with them and I was delighted/horrified to see how well one of the kids has come on in particular. Lets just say i'm no longer able to beat all the kids at bouldering. I did get close on some yellows so not too bad.
Other than that 2 fingerboard repeater sessions. This is to get a pump on for Chorro and to build up a base for when I get back and get back into max hangs. Also it's all i can do at home and better than nothing. Did 8 sets of 6 hangs with 2 min rest first time and then 9 second time. Need to up the intensity or drop the rest I think as i'm getting bored more than tired. Also did press ups and stretching between sets to sort out my left knee (irritated by biking) and left shoulder (not sure what I've done but it hurts).
Diet going OK. Very good during the week and tend to relax a bit at weekend. Not measured % this week.
This week:
75 miles bike commuting
Possible BUK visit to test the 7b+ circuit depending on how revision goes (exam in a week).
2 x fingerboard sessions
Cheers Guy.
Yes you read it right. 80 moves x 8. More about time than moves tbh. I can get a long route done indoors in a couple of minutes but for what i'm going to chorro for (mileage, on-sighting and some quick redpoints of failed on-sights) I felt the need to test my endurance.
Poor week last week and this will be similar.
75 miles on bike done. Nice to see i'm still getting faster consistently. Strava has turned me into a competitive monster (with myself). No matter how tired I am once I start strava I push myself.
This may be why I've been really tired this week Joking aside I was pretty wiped out Fri and Sat and only just managed to convince myself to get on the fingerboard today. That happened last week as well. Need to concentrate on mid week sleep.
Grabbed a few laps of the 7a circuit at The Depot after coaching on Wednesday. Fun session after the BLCC's so I climbed with them and I was delighted/horrified to see how well one of the kids has come on in particular. Lets just say i'm no longer able to beat all the kids at bouldering. I did get close on some yellows so not too bad.
Other than that 2 fingerboard repeater sessions. This is to get a pump on for Chorro and to build up a base for when I get back and get back into max hangs. Also it's all i can do at home and better than nothing. Did 8 sets of 6 hangs with 2 min rest first time and then 9 second time. Need to up the intensity or drop the rest I think as i'm getting bored more than tired. Also did press ups and stretching between sets to sort out my left knee (irritated by biking) and left shoulder (not sure what I've done but it hurts).
Diet going OK. Very good during the week and tend to relax a bit at weekend. Not measured % this week.
This week:
75 miles bike commuting
Possible BUK visit to test the 7b+ circuit depending on how revision goes (exam in a week).
2 x fingerboard sessions
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy, more VFM from my BUK pass this week.....
M: Rest
T: BUK, usual
W: BUK usual
T: Rest
F: Was going to BUK but went out for meal with family, managed to resist a pudding for one but still ate more than I should.
S: Managed to do my bastardised easier version of the 7b+ circuit first of them had some half hearted attempts working the moves I'd avoided. 4x FO campusing, I know I'm not doing this right but still get pretty busted.
S: Managed the harder moves on the 7b+ and even linked in to the first from the start (it's about 4 moves in but small victories and it's a long winter!). 4x FO campusing with slightly shorter rests and all four reps were about a minute)
Well the die is cast and Rodellar is the venue for my holiday which starts on Saturday. It is probably a venue that suits me the least but I'm excited as I've never been, I just wish I'd lost some weight.
Thanks guy, more VFM from my BUK pass this week.....
M: Rest
T: BUK, usual
W: BUK usual
T: Rest
F: Was going to BUK but went out for meal with family, managed to resist a pudding for one but still ate more than I should.
S: Managed to do my bastardised easier version of the 7b+ circuit first of them had some half hearted attempts working the moves I'd avoided. 4x FO campusing, I know I'm not doing this right but still get pretty busted.
S: Managed the harder moves on the 7b+ and even linked in to the first from the start (it's about 4 moves in but small victories and it's a long winter!). 4x FO campusing with slightly shorter rests and all four reps were about a minute)
Well the die is cast and Rodellar is the venue for my holiday which starts on Saturday. It is probably a venue that suits me the least but I'm excited as I've never been, I just wish I'd lost some weight.
2
In reply to biscuit:
Ping me a message if you want company at BUK, although I'll prob be going Tue and Wed.
Ping me a message if you want company at BUK, although I'll prob be going Tue and Wed.
In reply to guy127917:
Sadly I did nothing at all. First was at a field exercise for 2 days, then school for a full day, then one day of preparations before going to Paris with the missus for our anniversairy.
I did summit La Tour Eiffel, a summit in Paris. It's a via ferrata, but sadly I had to aid up there using some fixed cables as there were too many people up the easy hiking route. Long route though, 324 meters. Rappelled down on the same cables.
I was too scared to go to the top floor of the Eiffel Tower due to my fear of heights when I was 12. Felt really good to now have conquered that fear to the point where I could go up there without getting nervous at all.
Sadly I did nothing at all. First was at a field exercise for 2 days, then school for a full day, then one day of preparations before going to Paris with the missus for our anniversairy.
I did summit La Tour Eiffel, a summit in Paris. It's a via ferrata, but sadly I had to aid up there using some fixed cables as there were too many people up the easy hiking route. Long route though, 324 meters. Rappelled down on the same cables.
I was too scared to go to the top floor of the Eiffel Tower due to my fear of heights when I was 12. Felt really good to now have conquered that fear to the point where I could go up there without getting nervous at all.
Post edited at 00:22
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy, and nice one on the 7a+.
Didn't manage anything last week. Time just slipped away amidst the faff of trying to get everything packed. MiniAJM has been being a bit difficult at times which all saps energy (it all comes in phases, everything passes, sadly including the nice settled bits!).
On Kalymnos now, at least, although miniAJM has a bad cough and is in the wrong time zone so given last night's experience this may not be that first day of holiday where you achieve everything on day one!
The 555 goals stuff is basically done for me now, I deliberately didn't want to set any trip goals.
- got a wonderful day in DWS land, but that whetted the appetite for more just as the weather changed and a lot of my friends drifted to other things. More next year? Gates of Greyskull (7b+) calls!
- good to get another font 7 done away from home (it helps my internal benchmarking as some of the local grades are quite inconsistent/broad) but didn't get back to FM. Winter project?
- no trad
- trip training is a difficult one. I know I could have done more, objectively. Never felt like it at the time but stepping back those foc sessions were only 20 minutes long so not exactly operas of epic proportions! Definite tactical mistake getting the flapper a few weeks back as they're so repetitive as exercises that those things really hamper it or slow healing. But then the maths suggests I could probably pull my best lattice scores ever at the minute and my decay curve isn't too bad either. So despite the lack of effort at times in theory (and it's yet to be tested on rock!) the results have been good.
Psyched to get out on rock now. After 2 goes I managed to produce some half way acceptable coffee which is helping.
> AJM: Force Majeure (x) another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
Thanks guy, and nice one on the 7a+.
Didn't manage anything last week. Time just slipped away amidst the faff of trying to get everything packed. MiniAJM has been being a bit difficult at times which all saps energy (it all comes in phases, everything passes, sadly including the nice settled bits!).
On Kalymnos now, at least, although miniAJM has a bad cough and is in the wrong time zone so given last night's experience this may not be that first day of holiday where you achieve everything on day one!
The 555 goals stuff is basically done for me now, I deliberately didn't want to set any trip goals.
- got a wonderful day in DWS land, but that whetted the appetite for more just as the weather changed and a lot of my friends drifted to other things. More next year? Gates of Greyskull (7b+) calls!
- good to get another font 7 done away from home (it helps my internal benchmarking as some of the local grades are quite inconsistent/broad) but didn't get back to FM. Winter project?
- no trad
- trip training is a difficult one. I know I could have done more, objectively. Never felt like it at the time but stepping back those foc sessions were only 20 minutes long so not exactly operas of epic proportions! Definite tactical mistake getting the flapper a few weeks back as they're so repetitive as exercises that those things really hamper it or slow healing. But then the maths suggests I could probably pull my best lattice scores ever at the minute and my decay curve isn't too bad either. So despite the lack of effort at times in theory (and it's yet to be tested on rock!) the results have been good.
Psyched to get out on rock now. After 2 goes I managed to produce some half way acceptable coffee which is helping.
In reply to Tyler:
It’ll be the weekend before I get to go, by which time you’ll be crushing in Rodellar.
See you when you get back for sure.
Have a good trip. Try and enjoy it!
It’ll be the weekend before I get to go, by which time you’ll be crushing in Rodellar.
See you when you get back for sure.
Have a good trip. Try and enjoy it!
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. No yoga this week as I was on a training course. Did manage with cunning to squeeze in a few sessions.
M - quick FB session: vanilla 7/3/6/3 repeats on big slots but with knee raises whist hanging. 12 lots. Travel to London.
T - course. And gruesome DOMS!
W - course. Vauxwall in evening. Circuits (they were really hard), traverses (they were really easy), various boulders. Finally had to stop when my back started protesting violently - hunching over a laptop in an incredibly unergonomic training room had taken its toll.
T - course.
F - course. UCR in evening for a squeezed in routes session. Shut down by a new '6c+' (is it heck - more like hard 7a). Ticked a new 7a after a couple of goes - difficult to get the clips in, which is always spooky. Ran out of steam after 10 routes but not very surprising.
S - 2 miles urban walking. Gardening. Armaid & elbow exercises in evening.
S - TCA. Spent a long time on circuits, esp a fingery 7a+. Couldn't do the last few moves but was quite pleased wit hthe progress I made on it. No new revelations on the remaining blues. Quick try on some steep stuff. Flapjack then 1min on:1 min off on lattice x10.
D1 & I go to Ariege on Thurs for a long weekend with 3 climbing days. Hopefully can tick 2 more 555s from this. I do wonder if I need to drop the Wye Valley Challenge as the logistics really don't look good, and replace with taking part in the Redpoint lead comp. They have a vet category so I wouldn't be up against the bright young things, but it will put me WELL outside my comfort zone!
Thanks Guy. No yoga this week as I was on a training course. Did manage with cunning to squeeze in a few sessions.
M - quick FB session: vanilla 7/3/6/3 repeats on big slots but with knee raises whist hanging. 12 lots. Travel to London.
T - course. And gruesome DOMS!
W - course. Vauxwall in evening. Circuits (they were really hard), traverses (they were really easy), various boulders. Finally had to stop when my back started protesting violently - hunching over a laptop in an incredibly unergonomic training room had taken its toll.
T - course.
F - course. UCR in evening for a squeezed in routes session. Shut down by a new '6c+' (is it heck - more like hard 7a). Ticked a new 7a after a couple of goes - difficult to get the clips in, which is always spooky. Ran out of steam after 10 routes but not very surprising.
S - 2 miles urban walking. Gardening. Armaid & elbow exercises in evening.
S - TCA. Spent a long time on circuits, esp a fingery 7a+. Couldn't do the last few moves but was quite pleased wit hthe progress I made on it. No new revelations on the remaining blues. Quick try on some steep stuff. Flapjack then 1min on:1 min off on lattice x10.
D1 & I go to Ariege on Thurs for a long weekend with 3 climbing days. Hopefully can tick 2 more 555s from this. I do wonder if I need to drop the Wye Valley Challenge as the logistics really don't look good, and replace with taking part in the Redpoint lead comp. They have a vet category so I wouldn't be up against the bright young things, but it will put me WELL outside my comfort zone!
In reply to AlanLittle:
Yup - here until the 30th...
> I arrive on Saturday. Will you still be around?
Yup - here until the 30th...
In reply to guy127917:
Nope, the GP can't see me until November and I need an 'open referal' to be able to go and see a specialist of my choice privately (AXA via work). I shouldn't slag the NHS off, my mum works for em, but November?!
I do have another recurring shoulder issue in the same arm so basically just gonna take whatever hit time wise and rehab them both. Suspect we are talking the whole winter. Not worry, next year's goals will just be all trad based
As for the injury, everything points to tendenosis (as opposed to itis) but I'm wary of self diagnosis of course. I did finally go the wall, beautiful dry Saturday (unbelievably depressing), and did 65 problems. All very easy but my arm got better as I progressed though it all. Did a few harder problems at the end, nowt serious, and left whilst I still felt reasonable. Was a bit painful the next day but the foam roller and some rehab helped. So a good sign I can still climb to some degree and actually climb something at red rocks. Truth be told I'm climbing at red rocks at all costs. Cancelling Chullia was heart breaking as I have never been but cancelling red rocks would be a whole other level entirely. Not gonna happen.
> snoop: Sorry to hear the wrist didn’t play ball. Have you had a doctor or similar look at it?
Nope, the GP can't see me until November and I need an 'open referal' to be able to go and see a specialist of my choice privately (AXA via work). I shouldn't slag the NHS off, my mum works for em, but November?!
I do have another recurring shoulder issue in the same arm so basically just gonna take whatever hit time wise and rehab them both. Suspect we are talking the whole winter. Not worry, next year's goals will just be all trad based
As for the injury, everything points to tendenosis (as opposed to itis) but I'm wary of self diagnosis of course. I did finally go the wall, beautiful dry Saturday (unbelievably depressing), and did 65 problems. All very easy but my arm got better as I progressed though it all. Did a few harder problems at the end, nowt serious, and left whilst I still felt reasonable. Was a bit painful the next day but the foam roller and some rehab helped. So a good sign I can still climb to some degree and actually climb something at red rocks. Truth be told I'm climbing at red rocks at all costs. Cancelling Chullia was heart breaking as I have never been but cancelling red rocks would be a whole other level entirely. Not gonna happen.
In reply to guy127917:
Tumble turns are good cheers, really helped my pace Had a couple of days off work at the beginning of the week so was bale to do a nice easy paced cross country 10 k on Monday and spent a few hours at the bouldering wall on Tuesday.
Wednesday back at work so the usual 1k swim and a 27k ride home (into the wind all the way home, felt brutal!)
Thursday 1 k lunchtime swim
Friday 4k gentle run with the wife at lunchtime, her last run before doing the Leicester half marathon at the weekend and a 31k ride home
Weekend was taken up with in laws visiting and the wife's first race on the Sunday
> the sheep: How are you tumble turns?
Tumble turns are good cheers, really helped my pace Had a couple of days off work at the beginning of the week so was bale to do a nice easy paced cross country 10 k on Monday and spent a few hours at the bouldering wall on Tuesday.
Wednesday back at work so the usual 1k swim and a 27k ride home (into the wind all the way home, felt brutal!)
Thursday 1 k lunchtime swim
Friday 4k gentle run with the wife at lunchtime, her last run before doing the Leicester half marathon at the weekend and a 31k ride home
Weekend was taken up with in laws visiting and the wife's first race on the Sunday
In reply to guy127917:
Not great!
m - 2hrs drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - rest
w - 5k run
t - rest
f - fly to Budapest
s - sightseeing
s - Budapest Marathon 4:44.04
At least I now know what's involved in running a marathon. It was harder than I expected, not made any easier by the unseasonable warm weather - 27 degrees C. I ran the first half in 2:04.00, but things had already started to go wrong by then. I had pain in my hip and my pace was going down every km. I was very, very glad to cross the finish line! Still, I learned a lot, need to take training a bit more seriously, but Budapest is a beautiful city to visit and, as a club, we had a great time. I'm up for doing another marathon, because I think I can do better. Still in with a chance for London, via the club ballot, and if I don't manage that I will look for an alternative one.
> hokkyousei: How did the marathon go?
Not great!
m - 2hrs drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - rest
w - 5k run
t - rest
f - fly to Budapest
s - sightseeing
s - Budapest Marathon 4:44.04
At least I now know what's involved in running a marathon. It was harder than I expected, not made any easier by the unseasonable warm weather - 27 degrees C. I ran the first half in 2:04.00, but things had already started to go wrong by then. I had pain in my hip and my pace was going down every km. I was very, very glad to cross the finish line! Still, I learned a lot, need to take training a bit more seriously, but Budapest is a beautiful city to visit and, as a club, we had a great time. I'm up for doing another marathon, because I think I can do better. Still in with a chance for London, via the club ballot, and if I don't manage that I will look for an alternative one.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi all. Thanks for the write up, Guy.
Sorry for the late response for last week -away in Font so only just got decent internet.
Another goal ticked last week, but unfortunately another MTG rather than a 555 goal -maybe I put my goals in the wrong order?!
STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (in Font this week. See next Sun's post ...ooh, the suspense!)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (x -so far, so good)
M: climbing indoor at Boardroom. Warm up on V0-V1 circuit. Laps to failure at 6b+ on autobelay with active recovery on easier autobelay routes.
T: shoulder rehab (bands).
W: drytooling at White Goods. Warm up on Adam. On-sight Apple M6 -TICKED MEDIUM TERM GOAL (on UKC this is M7, but local concensus is M6/M6+). Worked Pears M7 -didn't feel too bad, fell after crux twice due to lapses in concentration -should get this next session.
T: rest
F: shoulder rehab (bands)
S: rest
S: bouldering at Franchard Isatis, fairly low volume but with a couple of hard (for me) problems including a nice black 'Coup de Rouge'.
MTGs:
E2 on grit
E2 on limestone
F6c on limestone
10km at 5:30 pace (/)
A 'Nose' day (880m climbed in a day)
M6 onsight; M7 worked.
Hi all. Thanks for the write up, Guy.
Sorry for the late response for last week -away in Font so only just got decent internet.
Another goal ticked last week, but unfortunately another MTG rather than a 555 goal -maybe I put my goals in the wrong order?!
STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (in Font this week. See next Sun's post ...ooh, the suspense!)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (x -so far, so good)
M: climbing indoor at Boardroom. Warm up on V0-V1 circuit. Laps to failure at 6b+ on autobelay with active recovery on easier autobelay routes.
T: shoulder rehab (bands).
W: drytooling at White Goods. Warm up on Adam. On-sight Apple M6 -TICKED MEDIUM TERM GOAL (on UKC this is M7, but local concensus is M6/M6+). Worked Pears M7 -didn't feel too bad, fell after crux twice due to lapses in concentration -should get this next session.
T: rest
F: shoulder rehab (bands)
S: rest
S: bouldering at Franchard Isatis, fairly low volume but with a couple of hard (for me) problems including a nice black 'Coup de Rouge'.
MTGs:
E2 on grit
E2 on limestone
F6c on limestone
10km at 5:30 pace (/)
A 'Nose' day (880m climbed in a day)
M6 onsight; M7 worked.
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