UKC

Makinodromo

Hi all,

Off to Chorro in a few weeks and gather the Rockfax guide is fairly out of date these days. Planning on getting most beta from the Olive Branch while there but if anyone has any particular recommendation in the 7b-7c range that would be great! Pumpfests over crimpy technical stuff ideal but all welcome.

Also beta for the walk in to Makinodromo much appreciated. How long/how epic etc etc.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Surely someone has been...!

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Ok, I guess somebody has to be the rude guy pointing out the otherwise obvious thing in not such a nice manner -
Surely, there are at least 50 topics in this forum containing this information about Makinodromo and extensive logbooks with plenty of comments in at least 2 websites?

In reply to 8dreams:

You're right- threads about chorro do exist. But I would argue that much like the rockfax guide itself, they might be a little out of date. There's not a lot as helpful as first hand experience.

And yes, I can browse through the aforementioned (dated) guidebook and find some starred routes. Believe me, I've done so. But a personal recommendation from someone who has loved a route enough to post about it to a stranger tends to be worth something I've found. Have you looked at the guide? One line descriptions don't make for psych inducing reading. Recommendations do.

Mostly though, it's the middle of October and I'm looking forward to going on holiday. Hence the post

In reply to spidermonkey09:
I've been there last October and i dont think anything has changed - completely safe to go to Makinodromo, great routes there, especially in the range you are looking for. At least an hour, an hour and a half hike though (one way, the short way through the trainrails). Ask at olive branch for updates, its a wonderful place and community there! Couldnt recommend it more.
Routes... yeah too many, really cannot pick a few, just go for the classics and you wont be dissapointed. The routes at desplomilandia are also very nice and fit your description but it might be a bit cold there. Otherwise just from top of my mind - circuit la balleuvelle 7b(do i take an award for worst spelling?), and the very short one in the poema de roca cave also 7b

In reply to spidermonkey09:

'Honcho' at Frontalès is a brilliant 7c, total pumpfest. At Desplomilandia there's a 7b called 'Judas' that is very onsightable. At Makinodromo you should look at 'Atlas shrieked' 7c+, although you know you need to get on Lourdes ????

I really need to get back.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Maki walk - people tend to find their own preference but for me, going via the notch (avoiding the scree section by keeping right) is the best and by far the nicest approach with impressive views and no desperately steep bits. Takes ~90mins from chorro, bit more from olive tree. Then normally come back through the tunnels (worth having headtorch). (Human) guide useful for finding easiest route however you go - finding the relevant bits of hole in the fence, etc. Best crag there.

a few recommended 7b-c pumpers off top of head:

the 7a+ (hakuna matata?) and the 2x 7b's on the RHS of Makinodromo (head left if these go ok)
anak suleman 7b & honk down 7c on the sector a bit down and left of poema cave
viejo trador 7b+ and talibania 7c on poema sector
liron caretto 7c, sandukhan 7c and akira 7b at desplomlandia (best place if hot but need car/lift)
sector suizo has a handful of good pumpy 7's too. Alicia 7b+, etc.
Can remember most of the names so presumably a good sign of quality.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Not sure when you're out there but there's a chance you'll bump into Alan and Mark whilst you're over there, they'll be out working on the update (which I believe will be out next year, although please don't quote me on that!).

In response to 8dream's message I think it's perfectly reasonable to request an update on the access situation, particularly in Chorro where things have definitely been in a state of flux. It only takes two seconds to something constructive like "I've been there last October and i don't think anything has changed" and hey presto - you've got a useful answer (as opposed to a sarky response).

I haven't been since 2006 when I led my first 7a, a big milestone at the time. Hoping to head back next year and would love to climb Lourdes at Makindromo. Some of the other routes that Misha + Steve recommended sound ace too, will have to put them on the list.

In reply to MischaHY:

Just tried to find this and couldn't- Honk Down perhaps?