UKC

Spent a few hours bouldering at High Sports Crawley today and came away with 4 different flappers on 3 separate fingers. *Dips hands into tub of sudocrem*

I would like to know what different opinions there are on flappers? I used to associate the flap as a result from pushing climbing limits, but now I am more inclined to thank bad technique (gripping too hard/heavy jug use?).

Please discuss your opinions.

In reply to Saint.Procrastination:

Don't use sudocreme, it'll soften your skin. A decent quality handbalm is the best option, either something ClimbOn or make your own. We make ours from beeswax, shea butter various essential oils such as lavender and plenty of vitamin E.

As for the flappers, it sounds like your hands are simply not used to extended climbing sessions. How often do you climb?

In reply to MischaHY:
Oh! Thanks for that, I'll concoct something asap.

Sounds about right, just had two weeks off due to sprained ankle injury. Did plenty of washing up too lol.

In reply to Saint.Procrastination:

Building too big of calluses can be an issue as well. (Not sure that sentence is gramatically correct this early in the morning)

Mine seem to grow quite tall, and then get much easier to tear if I slip off something. I usually either clip them off with fingernail clippers, sand them off with a file (made for this, look on climbing sites to find one) or both. Haven't had a flapper since I started this, but they can get tender if you take off too much as well.

In reply to Luke_92


Thanks for advice.

In reply to Saint.Procrastination:

Depends where your flappers are - tips would be associated with pulling very hard on something very small. On the fingers rather than the tips - poor technique (or bad luck) on jugs

In reply to nniff:


Smack bang in the middle of index and ring fingers on both hands; thanks for confirming it is shoddy technique . I'll work on some slopers and slabs for a while.

In reply to Saint.Procrastination:

Personal advice would be tape up and carry on. Your hands will get used to the impact and the skin will harden up. Perhaps consider trying to move in a more controlled fashion so as not to be scraping your skin along the hold when you grab it.