/ NEWSFLASH: First Female 9b by Angy Eiter

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UKC News - on 22 Oct 2017
31 year old Austrian climber Angela 'Angy' Eiter has become the first woman to climb 9b, according to a post by 8a.nu. Angy redpointed Adam Ondra's La Planta de Shiva 9b at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain after spending time on the line over several trips in the last two years. She also trained specifically at home for the route.

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alx - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Absolute beast!
john arran - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Wow!

Just wow!






















Wow!
Postmanpat on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Very impressive! To put this in context, roughly how many people have actually climbed 9b? (genuine question)
Andy Hardy on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Inspirational!
AJM - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to Postmanpat:

Guessing - roundabout 10? Almost certainly less than 20. With fairly small numbers your view on a few historic questions may be important!
Postmanpat on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

> Guessing - roundabout 10? Almost certainly less than 20. With fairly small numbers your view on a few historic questions may be important!

Interesting. It sounds as though, with the exception of Ondra, she's probably going as well as anybody in the world?
Harald - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

A list of climbs/climbers can be found here:
https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs?styles=2
AJM - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to Postmanpat:

> Interesting. It sounds as though, with the exception of Ondra, she's probably going as well as anybody in the world?

Could well be - I don't know a massive amount about her if I'm honest.

Based off the article (a 9a and now this), I'd probably give the nudge to a few others as well as Ondra just for depth of fr9 ticking sitting behind the headline grade (and Sharma has gone beyond 9b too of course).

But whichever way you cut it it's a very small club she's just joined and a very impressive achievement.
Greasy Prusiks on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one! I can't remember climbing standards progressing so quickly for a long time.

Bonus points for skipping 9a+!
john arran - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to Harald:

Your link suggests that Jakob Schubert thought La Planta de Shiva to be harder than Sharma's Fight or Flight, which conveniently heads off any suggestion that it may be undergraded
Mike Rhodes - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Maybe we are now looking at a crossover point where on the latest uber steep routes with tiny holds, the top ladies with their light frames can not only compete with (traditionally) more powerful men, but beat them eg. Eiter 46k. Shiraishi 40k. v Ondra 68k. Megos 57k. Sharma 75k.
Even with more muscle carrying an extra 20k is quite a handicap. Try it down at the wall!

Just a thought!
Shani - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Beastess! Incredible stuff.
Shani - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to Mike Rhodes:

> Maybe we are now looking at a crossover point where on the latest uber steep routes with tiny holds, the top ladies with their light frames can not only compete with (traditionally) more powerful men, but beat them eg. Eiter 46k. Shiraishi 40k. v Ondra 68k. Megos 57k. Sharma 75k.

Therein is the reason why grades are pretty abitrary regardless of gender.
Harald - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to john arran:
The video of Ondra climbing Planta de Shiva is in my opinion the best vid to show non-climbers what hard sport climbing/Ondra is about The part with PdS starts at 7:00: https://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/25514787
Post edited at 20:44
Tyler - on 22 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Three sessions!!!!????
In reply to Tyler:
8a.nu have just clarified that to a few trips over the years. Amended. Interview to follow ASAP.
Post edited at 20:58
pasbury on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

'one of my hardest' - Adam Ondra.

Inspiring stuff.
joshtee25 - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Harald:

According to the link Harald put up (interesting resource!) - Angy is in a club of 13 people. Just a little bit good then!

J
snoop6060 - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Mike Rhodes:
Is Megos really only 57kg? Don't seam to recall him being that short (could be wrong) so that is pretty ridiculous. Under 9stone init? I now know where I am going wrong, 10st is now considered fat!

Edit: Just checked, he is apparently the exact same height as me, which is defo not tall! 5'5''. Though it does mean I have just had to scratch off my #1 excuse for being shit: Munchkin genes. Hmm, not liking this at all.
Post edited at 09:00
remus - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

Yep, he's ~57kg. He's got no legs.
Shani - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to remus:

> Yep, he's ~57kg. He's got no legs.

I regularly do weighted chin-ups with more than that.
beefy_legacy on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to snoop6060:
I think he's 5 foot 8, so not tall, but not a munchkin either.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2lbq51/i_am_alex_megos_ask_me_anything/

Edit: also he can do 5 one armers on each arm :o
Post edited at 09:32
HeMa on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

So about the same size as Nalle H.
john arran - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

> Edit: also he can do 5 one armers on each arm

That's nothing. I can do five one-armers on each arm too - but both at the same time!

;-)

mplaine - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to joshtee25:

> According to the link Harald put up (interesting resource!) - Angy is in a club of 13 people. Just a little bit good then!

In a club of 18 people to be exact. Of course, it all depends on which routes you count in. Here is a list of climbers and the ~9b or harder routes they have climbed:
#1 Adam Ondra (23): Change, Chaxi Raxi, Chilam Balam, C.R.S., Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Iron Curtain, La Capella, La Dura Dura, La Planta de Shiva, Lapsus, Mamichula, Marina Superstar, Move, Move Hard, Queen Line, Robin úd, Silence, Stoking the Fire, Torture Physique Integrale, Vasil Vasil, Vicious Circle
#2 Chris Sharma (10): Alasha, El Bon Combat, Es Pontas, Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Jumbo Love, La Dura Dura, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire
#3 Daniel Andrada Jiménez (3): Ali Hulk (sit start extension), Chilam Balam, Delincuente Natural (extension)
#4 Alexander Megos (3): Fightclub, First Round First Minute, Supernova
#5 Frédéric Rouhling (3): Akira, Empreintes, Salamandre
#6 Stefano Ghisolfi (2): First Round First Minute, Lapsus
#7 Jakob Schubert (2): Fight or Flight, La Planta de Shiva
#8 Sachi Amma (1): Fight or Flight
#9 Pirmin Bertle (1): Meiose
#10 Sébastien Bouin (1): Chilam Balam
#11 Angela Eiter (1): La Planta de Shiva
#12 Bernabé Fernández (1): Chilam Balam
#13 Ramón Julián Puigblanque (1): Catxasa R2
#14 Jernej Kruder (1): Es Pontas
#15 Eduard Marín García (1): Chilam Balam
#16 Steve McClure (1): Rainman
#17 Magnus Midtbø (1): Ali Hulk (sit start extension)
#18 Ethan Pringle (1): Jumbo Love

stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to john arran:

> Your link suggests that Jakob Schubert thought La Planta de Shiva to be harder than Sharma's Fight or Flight, which conveniently heads off any suggestion that it may be undergraded

I think Alex Megos tried it too but for whatever reason didn't redpoint it. Given the ease at which he seems to climb 9a+ (most in just a few tries) I'd assume it's probably the right grade.
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to mplaine:

> Of course, it all depends on which routes you count in.

Yeah if you take out boulder routes, Chilam Balam (Seb Bouin reckoned 9a+), Permin Bertle (unconfirmed, his own route), and Akira it's just 11.
planetmarshall on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

> I think he's 5 foot 8, so not tall, but not a munchkin either.

Yeah that sounds about right. Seen him in Kaly a couple of times and seem to remember he was about the same height as me (172). Though it's a bit disturbing that he's ~13kg lighter, and I'm not exactly chubby.

mplaine - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Yeah that sounds about right. Seen him in Kaly a couple of times and seem to remember he was about the same height as me (172). Though it's a bit disturbing that he's ~13kg lighter, and I'm not exactly chubby.

According to Wikipedia ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alex_Megos ), Alex Megos is 173 cm (5 ft 8 in) and 57 kg (126 lb).
Mr Lopez - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

> Yeah if you take out boulder routes, Chilam Balam (Seb Bouin reckoned 9a+), Permin Bertle (unconfirmed, his own route), and Akira it's just 11.

Yeah, and if you take out endurance routes and those that are just linking pitches then it's even less!
Lord_ash2000 - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Harald:

Not sure that second route counts, he defiantly pulled on that tree near the end. ;)
L redbullxtremer - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to alx:

That is no way to talk about this fine young piece.
snoop6060 - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

5'8 and 57kg. That is absolutely bonkers.
beefy_legacy on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

Yeah, I'm 2 cms shorter and about 8kg lighter, and I'm not a fatty.
Andrew Kin - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Inspirational.

stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Mr Lopez:

If you discount endurance routes (why?) then you take out Planta de Shiva as well. That's surely an endurance route.
Mr Lopez - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

My point exactly
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Two excellent vids of this route showing it from different angles.

Jakob's ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmfkrjlsFzU

Adam's ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmfkrjlsFzU from 7m onwards (first 7m is Chilam Balam).
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Mr Lopez:

If you don't understand why I discounted the routes I did it's because either they're probably not 9b or they're not proper routes.
AJM - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

> Yeah if you take out boulder routes, Chilam Balam (Seb Bouin reckoned 9a+), Permin Bertle (unconfirmed, his own route), and Akira it's just 11.

But then don't you also take out Steve (unconfirmed, his own route) and Ramon (I can only see that route once, so presumably own route unrepeated) by the same logic as Bertle? Not saying I agree or disagree with your logic, but it should be applied consistently.....
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

It's a good point. I think there's a big difference though between Permin Bertle and Steve. It seems like most/all? of Bertle's hard ascents (grade 9) are something of an unknown quantity and they're mostly his routes, hence his grades, and mostly unrepeated. Ondra has repeated a couple of them and I don't think he thought they were that hard. He flashed one and onsighted the other.

Steve has a long ticklist of established hard routes like Northern Lights at Kilnsey, repeated by Ondra and Megos and repelled attempts by several other very good climbers. Rainman is a harder finish to Steve's Rainshadow which was already confirmed as 9a. Steve's other route Overshadow was confirmed as a hard 9a+ by Ondra. Given the fact Rainman has taken considerably longer than Overshadow and what Steve says about it, it seems unlikely that it's not 9b. Ondra said he was sure Rainman would be really hard, even though he hasn't been on it.
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to AJM:

Ramon's route is not listed in escalade9's list of 9b's.

http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php

Elsewhere it's given the grade of 9a+/b. So if Ramon is taken out then that puts her in a group of just 10.

I think part of the significance is lost because she's a woman. It's still a very significant ascent regardless of gender. Only the third ascent of a very important route and I think only the fourth? person to climb 9b this year (others are Ondra, Steve, Ghisolfi).
AJM - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:
What about Ramon? Edit: you posted your reply whilst I was typing

It depends whether you want an obvious defining line or whether you want to stray into making your own judgements when compiling that sort of list.

I'm not really sure to be honest that it's even possible to draw up this list yet because even those which are currently "confirmed" have had maybe 3-4 repeats and of those at least 1 will probably be someone who was breaking a new grade at the time - the number of people who are in practice defining the threshold between 9a+ and 9b is very very small indeed and I suspect over time it will move and also routes will move relative to it (as more traffic leads to better beta and better relative comparisons and so on).
Post edited at 19:01
Wide_Mouth_Frog - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:
.....
> I think part of the significance is lost because she's a woman......

Really? I think the fact that she's first woman to climb 9b makes it more significant. It'll hopefully help to break through the 'glass ceiling'
Post edited at 19:58
Zebdi - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

I think Rouhling's Akira deserves to be on the list. It's the hardest thing he's ever climbed (neither Salamandre nor Empreintes were graded 9b) and I don't think many of his routes got downgraded (if any at all). Yes, it's a rather specific route, but so are many others. I remember reading somewhere that Andrada had tried it, but with no success.

Knut R. - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

If you decide Akira doesn't count, then you need to take out Ali Hulk (sit start extension). Same criteria applied.
mplaine - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Zebdi:

> I think Rouhling's Akira deserves to be on the list. It's the hardest thing he's ever climbed (neither Salamandre nor Empreintes were graded 9b)...

// Salamandre
A quote from http://www.desnivel.com/galeria-videos/fred-rouhling-y-salamandre-por-encima-del-9a
"A finales de noviembre del 2007, Fred Rouhling, una de las referencias de la escalada de máxima dificultad, encadenaba un proyecto en Saint Pierre que cotaba como "posible 9b". "

// Empreintes
A quote from https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x94g4d
"Fred Rouhling continue son bonhomme de chemin sur les falaises haut-savoyardes. Il y avait réalisé "Salamandre", il vient d'y laisser une autre ligne extrême avec "Empreintes", qu'il propose à environ 9a/b."
Michael Hood - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to john arran:

> That's nothing. I can do five one-armers on each arm too - but both at the same time!

> ;-)

Similarly, I've always found myself able to hop on alternate legs for miles and miles
aln - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

There's a lot of boys on this thread who are arguing about how many angels you can fit on the head of a needle. Have you forgotten it's about an amazing woman doing an amazing thing?
planetmarshall on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to aln:

> Have you forgotten it's about an amazing woman doing an amazing thing?

No, but this is UKC. If there's anything we love more than lists and numbers, it's lists of numbers.
teddy - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to stp:

Ondra said he was sure Rainman would be really hard, even though he hasn't been on it.

I'm pretty sure Ondra has been on Rainman as back in 2011 when he repeated Overshadow, I remember reading that he had tried the top bit of what became Rainman and thought it was hard and that it was a great project but that he was able to do some moves differently due to his reach, making it a little easier for him. This is perhaps one of the reasons why he feels able to comment on the route
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog:

Yeah of course it's highly significant she's the first woman to climb 9b. No doubt about that. What I meant was that it could come across as that's the only reason it's big news when in fact it'd still be big news even if she was a guy.
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to Zebdi:

Yeah Akira is still an unknown quantity, though the reason I thought it might be discounted is because I've heard it said that if it was done today it would be climbed as a boulder problem with mats rather than a rope.

The definitions of what counts is of course highly subjective. I just thought it interesting to see how many would be in the 9b group using the strictest criteria.
stp - on 23 Oct 2017
In reply to teddy:

OK. Well remembered. I hadn't realised that he'd tried it too. I'd just gone by a post he wrote at the time of Steve's ascent.
Knut R. - on 24 Oct 2017
In reply to aln:

You're right, and I get sucked in to conversations about lists and numbers....apologies. (but....Akira!!!....)

Epic send by Angie. I remember her and her world cup dominance, and watched her train in Imst in 2006. Even with that context of knowing she's a monster, I remain stunned by this send on multiple levels.

Really a staggering send, considering that 15b has only really been consolidated in the past few years. When you think that really really strong route climbers like Magnus, Jorg, Sean, Dave G., Mrazerk or Bouin, who are known to be at or near the top of the game, have not succeeded at a 9b....well, that just emphasized the significance of her ascent.

I've felt the holds on a 9b (Fight Club, Banff) and it's alien to imagine climbing that grade.

Proud work indeed.
L mallirvine - on 25 Oct 2017
In reply to UKC News:

My two cents on who is and is not in the 9b club: IMO Akira does not count, because a) no one knows if Fred climbed it, b) no one has confirmed the grade, c) it's at least partially manufactured, and d) it's more a boulder route than a sport route. All the boulder routes, such as Ali Hulk, belong in a separate category and discussion to my mind.

I also agree with those of you who discount Chilam and Bernabe. The grade is soft at best, and in Bernabe's case many questions remain unanswered.

The grade on La Planta clearly is NOT soft. Fantastic achievement by Angela, who has taken her dominance in world comps to rock, and joins an elite group of maybe 10 climbers who have sent 9b or above.


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