This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Evening, 2 weeks to go of Challenge 555, let us know how your personal challenge is going!
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
AJM: another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) Steady Training for trip (/) Force Majeure (x) An E2 or E3 (x)
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181 (x) (/)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (/)
hms: Redpoint lead comp (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (/) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (/) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=672745
Ally Smith: I assume you are on a complete break from training whilst away- for 2 weeks? Enjoy!
mrchewy: Great to hear the rehab/trip to physio is working out, keep up the hard work!
AlanLittle: Really good to see you peaking at the right time, now comes the hard part!!
guy127917: A lot of short term goals there…
Jen Jones: “red pointed a 5+, got all the moves on a 7a+, got most of the moves on a 7b”…
mattrm: 120 push ups in a week is a 120 more than I did! Good to see progress- how did it go this week?
Si dH: Now/once the finger is back at full strength, are you going to do anything specific for the next period to protect it? I’m guessing even back at full strength the tendon would still be more susceptible to another injury?
biscuit: Good to see you are making use of the hangboard. I tend to get big gains when first starting a new fb programme before it plateaus a bit, always good for early motivation!
Tyler: Enjoy your trip, last couple of weeks looked pretty brutal, hope you’re feeling fresh
TheFasting: Well done on bagging the summit. Did you need supplementary oxygen?
AJM: “Didn't manage anything last week” I think you mean “strong week of tapering”.
hms: Did the weather play ball in Ariege?
snoop: Someone here (maybe Ally?) had some success with an Armaid for improving elbow issues- they look terrifying though!
the sheep: Did watching your wife race give you an urge to sign up to the next one?
hokkyokusei: Congratulations on finishing the marathon! Glad to hear you are motivated for the next one!
Tom Green: Well if your medium term goals are really leading you toward your long term goals, then I wouldn’t worry about it!
AWOL: Dandan, Bobling, Just Tintin, planetmarshall
4
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 30 push ups
T - 30 push ups
F - Rest
S - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
The overall running total is 384. I'd started off on the 9 per day which is why it's an odd number. Never stuck to that tho. Still should hit the 555 for push ups fairly easily now. I'm hoping that I might get back to doing one proper night at the climbing wall this week as well, which will be nice. So I suppose that's a good step forward on the STG.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 30 push ups
T - 30 push ups
F - Rest
S - 30 push ups
S - 30 push ups
The overall running total is 384. I'd started off on the 9 per day which is why it's an odd number. Never stuck to that tho. Still should hit the 555 for push ups fairly easily now. I'm hoping that I might get back to doing one proper night at the climbing wall this week as well, which will be nice. So I suppose that's a good step forward on the STG.
In reply to guy127917:
Evening Guy, once again thanks. Sorry I've no 555 goal when you've made such an effort. I am off to Rubicon next weekend to belay a mate on his project but I think I need to protect the shoulder before Font. Ah well. 666 I guess!!!
BAHG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m
Mon - Rehab on thoracic and shoulder plus mobility stuff.
Tue - Woke up to find shoulder worse AGAIN. Then realised I've been sleeping on my left side since I moved into a house again. I haven't done this since 1984. Basically doing the 'sleeper stretch' all night on the bad shoulder which is about the worst thing I could be doing. No rehab.
Wed - No rehab. Just letting it settle and sleeping on my back.
Thu - Rehab etc. Great session, shoulders are responding to the mobility work.
Fri - Rehab session of about 2hrs.
Sat - Walked a few miles but the ACL hurts on the flat if I push the speed, heel striking is the pain instigator. Rehab session before much beer and a night on the tiles.
Sun - Got home at 4.35am. Cycled 52km, it was proper windy and just pottered at 20kph. The hangover was immense. Rehab rest day.
Tuesday morning was grim, I couldn't even hold the steering wheel but the progress since sleeping on my back has been good. Slightly concerned about the ACL and falling in Font, I'm going to have to really focus on falling in control.
Nice to be back on a bike too, for the first time since May. I've missed it and it's good cardio work for Salbit.
Oh, and booked flights for a week in Switzerland in April.
Evening Guy, once again thanks. Sorry I've no 555 goal when you've made such an effort. I am off to Rubicon next weekend to belay a mate on his project but I think I need to protect the shoulder before Font. Ah well. 666 I guess!!!
BAHG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m
Mon - Rehab on thoracic and shoulder plus mobility stuff.
Tue - Woke up to find shoulder worse AGAIN. Then realised I've been sleeping on my left side since I moved into a house again. I haven't done this since 1984. Basically doing the 'sleeper stretch' all night on the bad shoulder which is about the worst thing I could be doing. No rehab.
Wed - No rehab. Just letting it settle and sleeping on my back.
Thu - Rehab etc. Great session, shoulders are responding to the mobility work.
Fri - Rehab session of about 2hrs.
Sat - Walked a few miles but the ACL hurts on the flat if I push the speed, heel striking is the pain instigator. Rehab session before much beer and a night on the tiles.
Sun - Got home at 4.35am. Cycled 52km, it was proper windy and just pottered at 20kph. The hangover was immense. Rehab rest day.
Tuesday morning was grim, I couldn't even hold the steering wheel but the progress since sleeping on my back has been good. Slightly concerned about the ACL and falling in Font, I'm going to have to really focus on falling in control.
Nice to be back on a bike too, for the first time since May. I've missed it and it's good cardio work for Salbit.
Oh, and booked flights for a week in Switzerland in April.
Post edited at 21:45
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. You are putting in a lot of effort tracking everyone's 555 goals!
I wasn't planning anything specific - what would you suggest? It's not quite 100% still, but well on the mend. My plan was just to continue gradually working up the hang weight on the Fingerboard, and stop if I feel pain when bouldering. I've only ever had one lengthy (ie multiple month serious effect) finger injury before, and that was a flexor unit rather than a pulley. So although I've had loads of tweaks, I'm feeling my way a bit with this one. I suppose one good thing is the time of year: grit is far more finger friendly than lime.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: rest
T: shoulder exercises as normal routine, plus fingerboard max hangs. Max hangs I did (-11kg) one armed on the 20 kg edge and (+23 kg) 2-armed on the 18mm aa edges before any pain, each for 10 seconds x 2 or 3 reps. Improvement 2-handed vs 2 weeks earlier.
W: rest
T-F: nothing
S: Climbing unit. Tried a few yellows but didn't get very far.
S: nothing.
A difficult week due to combination of lack of sleep, eating too much to compensate, and really long hours at work. Couldn't face the planned session today, thought I would make myself ill. I've put back on the weight I had lost in the previous fortnight too. Need to try to get back 'on it'.
Si
Cheers Guy. You are putting in a lot of effort tracking everyone's 555 goals!
> Si dH: Now/once the finger is back at full strength, are you going to do anything specific for the next period to protect it? I’m guessing even back at full strength the tendon would still be more susceptible to another injury?
I wasn't planning anything specific - what would you suggest? It's not quite 100% still, but well on the mend. My plan was just to continue gradually working up the hang weight on the Fingerboard, and stop if I feel pain when bouldering. I've only ever had one lengthy (ie multiple month serious effect) finger injury before, and that was a flexor unit rather than a pulley. So although I've had loads of tweaks, I'm feeling my way a bit with this one. I suppose one good thing is the time of year: grit is far more finger friendly than lime.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: rest
T: shoulder exercises as normal routine, plus fingerboard max hangs. Max hangs I did (-11kg) one armed on the 20 kg edge and (+23 kg) 2-armed on the 18mm aa edges before any pain, each for 10 seconds x 2 or 3 reps. Improvement 2-handed vs 2 weeks earlier.
W: rest
T-F: nothing
S: Climbing unit. Tried a few yellows but didn't get very far.
S: nothing.
A difficult week due to combination of lack of sleep, eating too much to compensate, and really long hours at work. Couldn't face the planned session today, thought I would make myself ill. I've put back on the weight I had lost in the previous fortnight too. Need to try to get back 'on it'.
Si
Post edited at 21:59
In reply to guy127917:
Hi all. Thanks, as usual, Guy.
Another 555 goal down this week, with fun at Font and then a few days family hols taking precedence over other 'bigger picture' stuff.
A slightly different approach in Font this trip to previous trips. Usually I do high mileage, orange/blue circuits with the occasional harder problem thrown in. This trip I did relatively low volume, but chose problems at/beyond my limit and tried pretty hard. The end result was similar to the normal trips... some joy, some frustration and some biceps tendonitis! I'd previously thought the tweaky font elbows were due to high volume, but this trip suggests it is more to do with pulling hard on the harder problems. Does this mirror other peoples experience?
STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (/)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (after this week of zero, I now can't average 3 unless I cram 8 sessions in to the next week, which would only be good for hitting the target, not for the actual real goal!)
M: Bouldering Bois Rond Low volume of Orange & Blue. Failed on Milleur du Monde (poor conditions for slopers -amongst other excuses!) Bouldering Beauvois worked Olympiasme.
T: Bouldering Beauvois. Sent Olympiasme f6A -TICKED STG!!
W: Bouldering L'elefant. Tried hard and got close on two more 6As. Elbows hurting.
T: rest.
F: rest.
S: rest
S: rest.
MTGs:
E2 on grit
E2 on limestone
F6c on limestone
10km at 5:30 pace (/)
A 'Nose' day: 880m climbed in a day.
M6 onsight (/)
M7 worked
Hi all. Thanks, as usual, Guy.
Another 555 goal down this week, with fun at Font and then a few days family hols taking precedence over other 'bigger picture' stuff.
A slightly different approach in Font this trip to previous trips. Usually I do high mileage, orange/blue circuits with the occasional harder problem thrown in. This trip I did relatively low volume, but chose problems at/beyond my limit and tried pretty hard. The end result was similar to the normal trips... some joy, some frustration and some biceps tendonitis! I'd previously thought the tweaky font elbows were due to high volume, but this trip suggests it is more to do with pulling hard on the harder problems. Does this mirror other peoples experience?
STGs/555 goals:
E1 on grit (x)
E1 on limestone (x)
F6A in font (/)
5km in 25min (/)
Average 3 times per week shoulder work (after this week of zero, I now can't average 3 unless I cram 8 sessions in to the next week, which would only be good for hitting the target, not for the actual real goal!)
M: Bouldering Bois Rond Low volume of Orange & Blue. Failed on Milleur du Monde (poor conditions for slopers -amongst other excuses!) Bouldering Beauvois worked Olympiasme.
T: Bouldering Beauvois. Sent Olympiasme f6A -TICKED STG!!
W: Bouldering L'elefant. Tried hard and got close on two more 6As. Elbows hurting.
T: rest.
F: rest.
S: rest
S: rest.
MTGs:
E2 on grit
E2 on limestone
F6c on limestone
10km at 5:30 pace (/)
A 'Nose' day: 880m climbed in a day.
M6 onsight (/)
M7 worked
In reply to Tom Green:
Either can be bad. I think that in most cases my elbow problems have initiated through higher volume or insufficient rest, but once they are there, high intensity stuff definitely magnifies them too.
However the day you worked your 6A also sounds like a volume day to me
> Hi all. Thanks, as usual, Guy.
>
> A slightly different approach in Font this trip to previous trips. Usually I do high mileage, orange/blue circuits with the occasional harder problem thrown in. This trip I did relatively low volume, but chose problems at/beyond my limit and tried pretty hard. The end result was similar to the normal trips... some joy, some frustration and some biceps tendonitis! I'd previously thought the tweaky font elbows were due to high volume, but this trip suggests it is more to do with pulling hard on the harder problems. Does this mirror other peoples experience?
> A slightly different approach in Font this trip to previous trips. Usually I do high mileage, orange/blue circuits with the occasional harder problem thrown in. This trip I did relatively low volume, but chose problems at/beyond my limit and tried pretty hard. The end result was similar to the normal trips... some joy, some frustration and some biceps tendonitis! I'd previously thought the tweaky font elbows were due to high volume, but this trip suggests it is more to do with pulling hard on the harder problems. Does this mirror other peoples experience?
Either can be bad. I think that in most cases my elbow problems have initiated through higher volume or insufficient rest, but once they are there, high intensity stuff definitely magnifies them too.
However the day you worked your 6A also sounds like a volume day to me
Post edited at 06:41
In reply to guy127917:
Haha yes I suppose a 50% taper from one session a week is doing nothing isn’t it!
Half way on Kalymnos now, give or take. It’s chuffing exhausting!
There’s a good old mix of tactics in our group. We have been trying to get up to the crag as a family, which sort of means we count as a slightly inefficient single climber and therefore need others to climb with and want long days to allow us to faff. Some of the others are doing alternate days, or short days (non climbing other halves etc), which means actually they want short focused sessions to spend afternoons on the beach and don’t need so much to find child friendly crags. MiniAJM is having all the usual fun of a youngster whose usual routine has gone out the window, with the added challenge of getting him to sleep at busy crags full of fun things happening. And unlike our bouldering trip earlier in the year, which had some of the same problems, sport climbing needs more time (2hrs of hard bouldering can be your day) and we can be more independent in our objectives (MrsAJM hasn’t led anything in ages and isn’t keen to add to the challenge of the trip by restarting, so she’s toproping things that I and others have led). So today I’m feeling pretty wiped!
That sounds like a whinge, but I don’t really mean it to be. It’s just a reflection on some of the challenges. I think by trying to spend as much time together as possible we are maybe choosing a harder path, but that’s kind of what we want in that I don’t want to spend the entire holiday in different places! On the flip side, the others in the group have been really good at helping with belays and topropes and all that stuff and we’ve made some new friends and had some good chats about the challenges that kids bring which remind you that it’s just what happens and that you aren’t the only one struggling a bit to try to combine the kid and the hobby/addiction! And we are still on a beautiful Mediterranean island with cold beer in the evenings and some of the best routes in the world. So it’s not that bad.
In terms of the climbing, I’ve onsighted a bunch of 6c+s and have fallen off 2 7a+s - one a wall/slab done to avoid the grease in the Spartacus cave (Leonides (7b)) and one a thin groove in the grease (Pomponpidoux (7b)). Movement on tufa is coming back - I’ve not climbed on it for 2 years - but given low overall mileage each day and general logistics I suspect that list of 7cs may have to wait for the next trip! Possibly fit enough, hard to say, but not sure I’d be efficient enough.
As far as the rest of the trip goes, I’ve seen people on Spartacus (7b+) so if the opportunity came I wouldn’t mind having a flash go, but otherwise I’d like to keep plugging away and see if I can sneak a 7 on sight or slightly higher 7 redpoint in of something suitably classy. Hoping to meet up with Alan in the next few days too.
> AJM: “Didn't manage anything last week” I think you mean “strong week of tapering”.
Haha yes I suppose a 50% taper from one session a week is doing nothing isn’t it!
Half way on Kalymnos now, give or take. It’s chuffing exhausting!
There’s a good old mix of tactics in our group. We have been trying to get up to the crag as a family, which sort of means we count as a slightly inefficient single climber and therefore need others to climb with and want long days to allow us to faff. Some of the others are doing alternate days, or short days (non climbing other halves etc), which means actually they want short focused sessions to spend afternoons on the beach and don’t need so much to find child friendly crags. MiniAJM is having all the usual fun of a youngster whose usual routine has gone out the window, with the added challenge of getting him to sleep at busy crags full of fun things happening. And unlike our bouldering trip earlier in the year, which had some of the same problems, sport climbing needs more time (2hrs of hard bouldering can be your day) and we can be more independent in our objectives (MrsAJM hasn’t led anything in ages and isn’t keen to add to the challenge of the trip by restarting, so she’s toproping things that I and others have led). So today I’m feeling pretty wiped!
That sounds like a whinge, but I don’t really mean it to be. It’s just a reflection on some of the challenges. I think by trying to spend as much time together as possible we are maybe choosing a harder path, but that’s kind of what we want in that I don’t want to spend the entire holiday in different places! On the flip side, the others in the group have been really good at helping with belays and topropes and all that stuff and we’ve made some new friends and had some good chats about the challenges that kids bring which remind you that it’s just what happens and that you aren’t the only one struggling a bit to try to combine the kid and the hobby/addiction! And we are still on a beautiful Mediterranean island with cold beer in the evenings and some of the best routes in the world. So it’s not that bad.
In terms of the climbing, I’ve onsighted a bunch of 6c+s and have fallen off 2 7a+s - one a wall/slab done to avoid the grease in the Spartacus cave (Leonides (7b)) and one a thin groove in the grease (Pomponpidoux (7b)). Movement on tufa is coming back - I’ve not climbed on it for 2 years - but given low overall mileage each day and general logistics I suspect that list of 7cs may have to wait for the next trip! Possibly fit enough, hard to say, but not sure I’d be efficient enough.
As far as the rest of the trip goes, I’ve seen people on Spartacus (7b+) so if the opportunity came I wouldn’t mind having a flash go, but otherwise I’d like to keep plugging away and see if I can sneak a 7 on sight or slightly higher 7 redpoint in of something suitably classy. Hoping to meet up with Alan in the next few days too.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hello Guy.
Yes, what's your point? 5's on Portland are hard! ;p
A couple of weeks ago I decided that I wanted to run every day that I am at home which is Mon-Thurs most weeks and the occasional weekend. In the first week I ran 3/5 days I was home. In the second week (last week) I ran 3/4 days.
Initially, I wanted to do some heart rate training for vague reasons. Now I have thought about it a bit more what I really want to do is to become much fitter and to increase my endurance and speed for long days out in the mountains. I have been told many times over the last couple of years to read training for new alpinism to learn about heart rate endurance and mountain fitness so one of my mini goals this week is to have a look at that and to decide on some specific goals to start working towards.
This week:
Mon: 2.82 mile run (31.54 mins - 11:19 min/mi avg. HR 164bpm)
Fingerboard - 5B beasty session 7 reps/2 sets - found this fine although lost it on a couple of the two finger hangs and came off 1 or 2 secs early. Will try 5C next time.
Tues: Bouldering - spent some time on the comp wall and in the loft working V4/V5 problems. Didn't seem close on the V5's so I am going to hunt down the most do-able one in the whole place just work it until it has been crushed
Spent some time on the wave - I have two projects on the go. Got 5/8 moves on the first one which is a definite improvement on the previous week. I didn't work on the second project but last week I was on 7/10 moves.
Lead climbing - getting my 5 lead climbs in - climbed 6 on the overhang in the cafe. 2 x 6a, 6a+, 6b x 2, 6b+. Practiced falling (forced, I couldn't hold on) a few times on the 6b+.
Weds: 3.9 mile run (43.11 mins - 11:07 min/mi avg. HR 165bpm)
Bouldering 3 hrs - worked up to 18/30 on the comp wall before being stumped on this one. Had a go at some of the harder climbs. Would like to try number 20 again before it is reset.
New set on the back wall - Flashed a few V3's and some greys (V2-V3). Then worked a fairly powerful V4 on the overhang which I sent along with a pink (V4-V6) after a few tries. This session was so much fun and made me feel pretty tired for the rest of the week. Not stretching made me feel very stiff in the days afterwards. Need to be more disciplined with stretching after every session.
Thurs: 2.84 mile run (27:56 mins - 9:50min/mi avg. HR 176bpm max HR 193bpm) - trying to calibrate my watch with my max heart rate so it doesn't think I am always working at my max (85% in zone 5) when I am out for an easy jog. Will see if it has made any difference this week.
Fri: Portland - turns out climbing hungover is excellent, didn't seem particularly bothered by the usual issues of fear :S
Lead climbing - 3, 4, 5+ and rp 6b+, dogged another 6b, which was a little overhanging and I found it hard to get around the bulge
Top-rope - 6a and 6b.
Pretty good day leading with some nerves which were overcome by focussing, visualising the moves, committing and continuing.
Sat: Portland - Tough day, 5+ on lead then it rained and windied and rained and more wind.
Sun: Portland - Lead a previous O/S 5. Then had a go at the cutting edge 6c+ on top rope. I used to dislike this climb because it scared me but actually it was really fun and is now a project of mine on tr and one day maybe lead.
Worked on the moves for the 7b, dumbfounded - I love this climb. The crux near the top is the only bit I am struggling with now and I think I got all the moves a couple of times but it is hard to say from where I started from as I might have had an advantage of an inch or two on the rope. Anyway, when I tried it again I couldn't move. Reckon this will go soon though. Great route, reckon I will have a go at leading this when Portland time comes around again
"Perhaps something like leading 5 climbs each time I go to the climbing wall and 3 outside each day on rock. This can be quite hard for me as I find it difficult to pull myself away from harder projects on top rope but I think it is something I really need to focus on." - I didn't do that many leads every time but managed more than normal. Will work on doing 3 routes each time I climb indoors with a partner and the same for full days outdoors.
So for next week: 1. work on my 555 V5 send; 2. make a start on training for new alpinism and decide on some goals; 3. stretch after every session; 4. lead 3 climbs every session. 5. 5C beasty fingerboard session
Thanks again for the hard work you are putting into the 555 challenge Guy. It has made me more specific with my goals and able to focus more on achieving them.
Hello Guy.
Yes, what's your point? 5's on Portland are hard! ;p
A couple of weeks ago I decided that I wanted to run every day that I am at home which is Mon-Thurs most weeks and the occasional weekend. In the first week I ran 3/5 days I was home. In the second week (last week) I ran 3/4 days.
Initially, I wanted to do some heart rate training for vague reasons. Now I have thought about it a bit more what I really want to do is to become much fitter and to increase my endurance and speed for long days out in the mountains. I have been told many times over the last couple of years to read training for new alpinism to learn about heart rate endurance and mountain fitness so one of my mini goals this week is to have a look at that and to decide on some specific goals to start working towards.
This week:
Mon: 2.82 mile run (31.54 mins - 11:19 min/mi avg. HR 164bpm)
Fingerboard - 5B beasty session 7 reps/2 sets - found this fine although lost it on a couple of the two finger hangs and came off 1 or 2 secs early. Will try 5C next time.
Tues: Bouldering - spent some time on the comp wall and in the loft working V4/V5 problems. Didn't seem close on the V5's so I am going to hunt down the most do-able one in the whole place just work it until it has been crushed
Spent some time on the wave - I have two projects on the go. Got 5/8 moves on the first one which is a definite improvement on the previous week. I didn't work on the second project but last week I was on 7/10 moves.
Lead climbing - getting my 5 lead climbs in - climbed 6 on the overhang in the cafe. 2 x 6a, 6a+, 6b x 2, 6b+. Practiced falling (forced, I couldn't hold on) a few times on the 6b+.
Weds: 3.9 mile run (43.11 mins - 11:07 min/mi avg. HR 165bpm)
Bouldering 3 hrs - worked up to 18/30 on the comp wall before being stumped on this one. Had a go at some of the harder climbs. Would like to try number 20 again before it is reset.
New set on the back wall - Flashed a few V3's and some greys (V2-V3). Then worked a fairly powerful V4 on the overhang which I sent along with a pink (V4-V6) after a few tries. This session was so much fun and made me feel pretty tired for the rest of the week. Not stretching made me feel very stiff in the days afterwards. Need to be more disciplined with stretching after every session.
Thurs: 2.84 mile run (27:56 mins - 9:50min/mi avg. HR 176bpm max HR 193bpm) - trying to calibrate my watch with my max heart rate so it doesn't think I am always working at my max (85% in zone 5) when I am out for an easy jog. Will see if it has made any difference this week.
Fri: Portland - turns out climbing hungover is excellent, didn't seem particularly bothered by the usual issues of fear :S
Lead climbing - 3, 4, 5+ and rp 6b+, dogged another 6b, which was a little overhanging and I found it hard to get around the bulge
Top-rope - 6a and 6b.
Pretty good day leading with some nerves which were overcome by focussing, visualising the moves, committing and continuing.
Sat: Portland - Tough day, 5+ on lead then it rained and windied and rained and more wind.
Sun: Portland - Lead a previous O/S 5. Then had a go at the cutting edge 6c+ on top rope. I used to dislike this climb because it scared me but actually it was really fun and is now a project of mine on tr and one day maybe lead.
Worked on the moves for the 7b, dumbfounded - I love this climb. The crux near the top is the only bit I am struggling with now and I think I got all the moves a couple of times but it is hard to say from where I started from as I might have had an advantage of an inch or two on the rope. Anyway, when I tried it again I couldn't move. Reckon this will go soon though. Great route, reckon I will have a go at leading this when Portland time comes around again
"Perhaps something like leading 5 climbs each time I go to the climbing wall and 3 outside each day on rock. This can be quite hard for me as I find it difficult to pull myself away from harder projects on top rope but I think it is something I really need to focus on." - I didn't do that many leads every time but managed more than normal. Will work on doing 3 routes each time I climb indoors with a partner and the same for full days outdoors.
So for next week: 1. work on my 555 V5 send; 2. make a start on training for new alpinism and decide on some goals; 3. stretch after every session; 4. lead 3 climbs every session. 5. 5C beasty fingerboard session
Thanks again for the hard work you are putting into the 555 challenge Guy. It has made me more specific with my goals and able to focus more on achieving them.
Post edited at 08:15
In reply to Si dH:
No specific advice, sounds like you are on top of it working up gradually. I just know how tempting it is to jump right back in after injury, and generally the body takes time to strengthen fully again even after it feels good.
> I wasn't planning anything specific - what would you suggest?
No specific advice, sounds like you are on top of it working up gradually. I just know how tempting it is to jump right back in after injury, and generally the body takes time to strengthen fully again even after it feels good.
In reply to guy127917:
D'oh...
Some personal circumstances mean I'm going to miss the OMM this year so I've shifted my training focus away from aerobic stuff and back onto climbing.
It doesn't look like the 555 goals are going to happen unless we have a truly spectacular weekend, I'm blaming the weather. On the other hand, I finally received my copy of Jerry Handren's new Red Rocks guide, so I'm going to switch my 555 goals to at least one of -
Frogland (5.8) or (hopefully and) Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
Fingers crossed.
> planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
> AWOL: ...planetmarshall
> AWOL: ...planetmarshall
D'oh...
Some personal circumstances mean I'm going to miss the OMM this year so I've shifted my training focus away from aerobic stuff and back onto climbing.
It doesn't look like the 555 goals are going to happen unless we have a truly spectacular weekend, I'm blaming the weather. On the other hand, I finally received my copy of Jerry Handren's new Red Rocks guide, so I'm going to switch my 555 goals to at least one of -
Frogland (5.8) or (hopefully and) Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
Fingers crossed.
1
In reply to Jen Jones:
Let us know how you go, quite a few (including myself) using this book. I'll be switching training to Winter mode when I come back from Red Rocks in November. Might also take a look at some of their customised plans on the website. https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-plans/
> ...make a start on training for new alpinism and decide on some goals;
Let us know how you go, quite a few (including myself) using this book. I'll be switching training to Winter mode when I come back from Red Rocks in November. Might also take a look at some of their customised plans on the website. https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-plans/
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, it certainly did! We are entered into a half in February and going to do the Leicester one again but together this time. Also got a few duathlons on the horizon for next year as well as a couple of Tri's for me.
Have got my training mojo back last week which was great as it also put me through my year running goal of 520km Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 7.3km evening run
Wednesday, 15km ride to work and 2km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 8.5km evening run
Friday 1km lunchtime swim and 5km evening run
Saturday, 9.6km trail run, very windy and very muddy
Sunday, nice gentle 5km run
> the sheep: Did watching your wife race give you an urge to sign up to the next one?
Cheers Guy, it certainly did! We are entered into a half in February and going to do the Leicester one again but together this time. Also got a few duathlons on the horizon for next year as well as a couple of Tri's for me.
Have got my training mojo back last week which was great as it also put me through my year running goal of 520km Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 7.3km evening run
Wednesday, 15km ride to work and 2km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 8.5km evening run
Friday 1km lunchtime swim and 5km evening run
Saturday, 9.6km trail run, very windy and very muddy
Sunday, nice gentle 5km run
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks. Intentionally easy week this week. Just o e 5k run that left me with jelly legs.
Unfortunately I seem to be coming down with something so this week might be even easier!
> hokkyokusei: Congratulations on finishing the marathon! Glad to hear you are motivated for the next one!
Thanks. Intentionally easy week this week. Just o e 5k run that left me with jelly legs.
Unfortunately I seem to be coming down with something so this week might be even easier!
In reply to guy127917:
Damn right - 2 weeks of no climbing. Time to rest up having done two of my 555 list...
Week 43
M - Nowt – D&V bug
T - Nowt – wiped out from voming.
W - Raven Tor after work. Flash pump trying to retro-flash Tin Of, 7b. Where has my aero-cap gone!?! 3RP on Cave Alternative. Did it on 3rd go after rejecting the shake out and questing on – wish it’d tried it sooner! Tried some other stuff, but beans had departed (lack of glycogen?)
T - 4sets 40kg OHP. 8 reps. 2sets 8rep 76kg deadlifts. 4sets 10 rep 40kg barbell wrist curl.
F - Nowt – Blue arse fly packing and last minute job application – then travelling
S - Nowt – travelling
S - Nowt – Yangon
Damn right - 2 weeks of no climbing. Time to rest up having done two of my 555 list...
Week 43
M - Nowt – D&V bug
T - Nowt – wiped out from voming.
W - Raven Tor after work. Flash pump trying to retro-flash Tin Of, 7b. Where has my aero-cap gone!?! 3RP on Cave Alternative. Did it on 3rd go after rejecting the shake out and questing on – wish it’d tried it sooner! Tried some other stuff, but beans had departed (lack of glycogen?)
T - 4sets 40kg OHP. 8 reps. 2sets 8rep 76kg deadlifts. 4sets 10 rep 40kg barbell wrist curl.
F - Nowt – Blue arse fly packing and last minute job application – then travelling
S - Nowt – travelling
S - Nowt – Yangon
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. You're putting the effort in keeping us on track with our goals.
I jumped on the scales twice last week and it was in the 12%'s each time. Getting close. I've had an entire weekend of sitting and revising/rocky road/pizza etc. Revising is not good for your health.
I did manage a circuit session with the kids I coach on Wednesday at the depot. I managed 6a+, 6b+ and 2/3rds of 6c+, ten min break and then 6a, 6b and 2/3rds of 6c. I was tired to start with and that wasn't a great performance.
Went to a comp at Kendal and took full advantage of being the youngest vet there to win a hat. Had two annoying foot slips that shouldn't have happened that would have got me a full round flash. Never mind. It was a really good fun, relaxed, comp with free pizza!
2 fingerboard sessions. So weak compared to where I used to be. Still mainly doing repeaters on the big holds and slopers to get back into it. Tried some chisels on the bottom rungs. That used to be my staple diet on the FB. Can hardly do a single rep atm. Very odd as i'm not climbing that badly.
Goals for this week:
Pass my exam tomorrow.
Go for a climb straight after (BUK 7b+ circuit is this weeks challenge).
Circuits at Depot on Wednesday
BUK again on Thursday
Cheers Guy. You're putting the effort in keeping us on track with our goals.
I jumped on the scales twice last week and it was in the 12%'s each time. Getting close. I've had an entire weekend of sitting and revising/rocky road/pizza etc. Revising is not good for your health.
I did manage a circuit session with the kids I coach on Wednesday at the depot. I managed 6a+, 6b+ and 2/3rds of 6c+, ten min break and then 6a, 6b and 2/3rds of 6c. I was tired to start with and that wasn't a great performance.
Went to a comp at Kendal and took full advantage of being the youngest vet there to win a hat. Had two annoying foot slips that shouldn't have happened that would have got me a full round flash. Never mind. It was a really good fun, relaxed, comp with free pizza!
2 fingerboard sessions. So weak compared to where I used to be. Still mainly doing repeaters on the big holds and slopers to get back into it. Tried some chisels on the bottom rungs. That used to be my staple diet on the FB. Can hardly do a single rep atm. Very odd as i'm not climbing that badly.
Goals for this week:
Pass my exam tomorrow.
Go for a climb straight after (BUK 7b+ circuit is this weeks challenge).
Circuits at Depot on Wednesday
BUK again on Thursday
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy. My 555 goals have gone for a burton I'm afraid so you can mark me as retired injured!
M: Rest
T: Short session at BUK. I'm going to be a bit more structured in my foot off campusing when I get back as I did four sets in 15 mins and my fourth set wasn't awful so I might do a strict 3 min rest between goes now.
W: Was going to train but realised my fellow holiday makers weren't so followed their lead (they're pretty good at this sort of thing)
T: Rest
F: Travel, arrived in Rodellar at 2am
S: Late start, 6c then 7a second go to warm up. Unfortunately Grand Boveda is dry so looks like we are there for the week. Got on El clan de los M'klau (7b+), intimidatingly steep but one of the least steep things there. One timid bolt to bolt followed by a timid go at doing som links
S: Put clips in El Cal de los to warm up then sent next go. Couldn't decide whether to rest or do an easy bolt-to-bolt ready for day after rest day. Did neither as I got on Sopas de Ajo which I could barely hang on, never have I used so much energy trying to stay in one place, it was like being on a run away horse. Stick clipped and stripped on the way down, absolutely battered, need to go to knee bar school. Bolt to bolted L'any que ve tambe but too tired to see if this a realistic target for the week, quite long and no rests with crux at the top.
Rest day today (Monday)
Cheers guy. My 555 goals have gone for a burton I'm afraid so you can mark me as retired injured!
M: Rest
T: Short session at BUK. I'm going to be a bit more structured in my foot off campusing when I get back as I did four sets in 15 mins and my fourth set wasn't awful so I might do a strict 3 min rest between goes now.
W: Was going to train but realised my fellow holiday makers weren't so followed their lead (they're pretty good at this sort of thing)
T: Rest
F: Travel, arrived in Rodellar at 2am
S: Late start, 6c then 7a second go to warm up. Unfortunately Grand Boveda is dry so looks like we are there for the week. Got on El clan de los M'klau (7b+), intimidatingly steep but one of the least steep things there. One timid bolt to bolt followed by a timid go at doing som links
S: Put clips in El Cal de los to warm up then sent next go. Couldn't decide whether to rest or do an easy bolt-to-bolt ready for day after rest day. Did neither as I got on Sopas de Ajo which I could barely hang on, never have I used so much energy trying to stay in one place, it was like being on a run away horse. Stick clipped and stripped on the way down, absolutely battered, need to go to knee bar school. Bolt to bolted L'any que ve tambe but too tired to see if this a realistic target for the week, quite long and no rests with crux at the top.
Rest day today (Monday)
Post edited at 19:49
In reply to guy127917:
Ariege weather was better than we had feared: 1 full day, 1 day which ended a bit early cos of rain, 1 day which started a bit late due to rain.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening - a really fun session.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, good ancap/aerocap session: finally got round the whole nails '7a' circuit.
W - cycle commute.
T - fly to Toulouse
F - onsight of Magma1 (7a), so a 555 tick.
S - tried hard on a very very long 7b but rain & politeness stopped play before success (was sharing the end section of the route with someone else and basically waited far too long for my go)
S - got frozen at the first crag so went to a second. Came within a whisker of a 7a+ OS but made a mistake on the easier ground after the crux. Went easily second go.
so got 1 of the 2 Ariege 555 ticks and wasn't a million miles off on the second.
Ariege weather was better than we had feared: 1 full day, 1 day which ended a bit early cos of rain, 1 day which started a bit late due to rain.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening - a really fun session.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, good ancap/aerocap session: finally got round the whole nails '7a' circuit.
W - cycle commute.
T - fly to Toulouse
F - onsight of Magma1 (7a), so a 555 tick.
S - tried hard on a very very long 7b but rain & politeness stopped play before success (was sharing the end section of the route with someone else and basically waited far too long for my go)
S - got frozen at the first crag so went to a second. Came within a whisker of a 7a+ OS but made a mistake on the easier ground after the crux. Went easily second go.
so got 1 of the 2 Ariege 555 ticks and wasn't a million miles off on the second.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Alarmingly STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos .
MTG:
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Kalymnos rookie makes rookie error shock.
M: Tapering. Third rest day in a row and getting twitchy. Half an hour elbow eccentrics & shoulder mobility
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Light session playing with sequences on some newly set hard circuits.
Half an hour in the weights room; elbow eccentrics & shoulder stabilisation.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light tapering session, half a dozen routes up to 6c+.
T: Rest. Half an hour elbow eccentrics & shoulder mobility.
F: Evening flight to Kos
S: Being nervous about arriving on the wrong side of a strange island late at night, I stayed overnight near Mastichari intending to get the ferry in the morning. Proceeded to narrowly miss the 10 o'clock boat, and sat at a nice cafe on the waterfront until one o'clock, thus wasting a climbing day. Never mind, I'll know better next time.
S: Telendos, sector Eros. A good first day getting used to the unaccustomed & scary feeling of climbing for more than fifteen metres at a time. Went well: several 35 to 40 metre pitches, including two "musical notes", one of them a rare-for-me 6c onsight (3 Ilots (6c)). Had to fight the pump but did so successfully, giving myself a good talking-to about how I've trained specifically to be able to shake out & recover on jugs, and there was bound to be one along shortly. There was.
Likewise hoping to find an opportunity to meet up with AJM & team at some point.
Alarmingly STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos .
MTG:
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Kalymnos rookie makes rookie error shock.
M: Tapering. Third rest day in a row and getting twitchy. Half an hour elbow eccentrics & shoulder mobility
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Light session playing with sequences on some newly set hard circuits.
Half an hour in the weights room; elbow eccentrics & shoulder stabilisation.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light tapering session, half a dozen routes up to 6c+.
T: Rest. Half an hour elbow eccentrics & shoulder mobility.
F: Evening flight to Kos
S: Being nervous about arriving on the wrong side of a strange island late at night, I stayed overnight near Mastichari intending to get the ferry in the morning. Proceeded to narrowly miss the 10 o'clock boat, and sat at a nice cafe on the waterfront until one o'clock, thus wasting a climbing day. Never mind, I'll know better next time.
S: Telendos, sector Eros. A good first day getting used to the unaccustomed & scary feeling of climbing for more than fifteen metres at a time. Went well: several 35 to 40 metre pitches, including two "musical notes", one of them a rare-for-me 6c onsight (3 Ilots (6c)). Had to fight the pump but did so successfully, giving myself a good talking-to about how I've trained specifically to be able to shake out & recover on jugs, and there was bound to be one along shortly. There was.
Likewise hoping to find an opportunity to meet up with AJM & team at some point.
3
In reply to Si dH:
Hmm, interesting! I only really have elbow issues when I go to Font -I guess I don’t really ‘intensively’ boulder at any other time (and I do relatively little sport climbing, although I’m doing a bit more indoors at the moment).
What theraband (or other) exercises do people find useful for combatting dodgy elbows?
> Either can be bad. I think that in most cases my elbow problems have initiated through higher volume or insufficient rest, but once they are there, high intensity stuff definitely magnifies them too.
Hmm, interesting! I only really have elbow issues when I go to Font -I guess I don’t really ‘intensively’ boulder at any other time (and I do relatively little sport climbing, although I’m doing a bit more indoors at the moment).
What theraband (or other) exercises do people find useful for combatting dodgy elbows?
In reply to Si dH:
Hmm, interesting! I only really have elbow issues when I go to Font -I guess I don’t really ‘intensively’ boulder at any other time (and I do relatively little sport climbing, although I’m doing a bit more indoors at the moment).
What theraband (or other) exercises do people find useful for combatting dodgy elbows?
> Either can be bad. I think that in most cases my elbow problems have initiated through higher volume or insufficient rest, but once they are there, high intensity stuff definitely magnifies them too.
Hmm, interesting! I only really have elbow issues when I go to Font -I guess I don’t really ‘intensively’ boulder at any other time (and I do relatively little sport climbing, although I’m doing a bit more indoors at the moment).
What theraband (or other) exercises do people find useful for combatting dodgy elbows?
In reply to Tom Green:
Font is particularly bad for elbows. I find endless squeezy problems aggravate them badly, especially when stretched.
This has always helped me a lot.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614
Some others find doing reverse bicep curls (ie just lowering the weight) also helps.
> Hmm, interesting! I only really have elbow issues when I go to Font -I guess I don’t really ‘intensively’ boulder at any other time (and I do relatively little sport climbing, although I’m doing a bit more indoors at the moment).
> What theraband (or other) exercises do people find useful for combatting dodgy elbows?
Font is particularly bad for elbows. I find endless squeezy problems aggravate them badly, especially when stretched.
This has always helped me a lot.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614
Some others find doing reverse bicep curls (ie just lowering the weight) also helps.
1
In reply to Si dH:
I started having elbow trouble when I dramatically upped my volume of easy aerobic training mileage in the summer. (Pity - it did work well in terms of improving my endurance a lot).
Most people recommend wrist curl eccentrics, but I'm finding bicep curl eccentrics seem to help more in my case.
I started having elbow trouble when I dramatically upped my volume of easy aerobic training mileage in the summer. (Pity - it did work well in terms of improving my endurance a lot).
Most people recommend wrist curl eccentrics, but I'm finding bicep curl eccentrics seem to help more in my case.
In reply to planetmarshall:
I will do. Have you found it useful in the past? I find the articles on the site pretty interesting, haven't paid too much attention to the training plans so will have a look at that, thanks for the link.
What are you planning in Red Rocks?? Have you been before? I went last year for a few days on my way home from Yosemite and it was just awesome!! Absolutely loved the rock there. I didn't manage to get to any of the canyons so was on the single pitch sport stuff but it was so good. A giant rock playground.
I will do. Have you found it useful in the past? I find the articles on the site pretty interesting, haven't paid too much attention to the training plans so will have a look at that, thanks for the link.
What are you planning in Red Rocks?? Have you been before? I went last year for a few days on my way home from Yosemite and it was just awesome!! Absolutely loved the rock there. I didn't manage to get to any of the canyons so was on the single pitch sport stuff but it was so good. A giant rock playground.
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks Si
That's really helpful.
Do those of you who do eccentric elbow exercises do them all the time as preventative or just as a therapeutic tool after a flare up?
Cheers
T
Thanks Si
That's really helpful.
Do those of you who do eccentric elbow exercises do them all the time as preventative or just as a therapeutic tool after a flare up?
Cheers
T
In reply to AlanLittle:
Thanks Alan,
Interesting about wrist vs bicep eccentrics -I'll give both a try!
Thanks Alan,
Interesting about wrist vs bicep eccentrics -I'll give both a try!
In reply to guy127917:
Monday: rest
Tuesday: hard bouldering session on wave, finished with 5ish steep but easy lead routes
Wednesday: 1.5 hours 3/4 intensity bouldering- didn't have the same pop as the day before
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Cuttings- happy to onsight Flowers on Razor Wire (it's been on my list for a while), did a few other bits
Saturday: Ridiculously windy, did 1.9 pitches and went to sit in a cafe
Sunday: Got back on Dumbfounded 7b. Made progress- climbed it cleanly on TR. I had 3 goes on lead but no dice. The 2nd time felt promising but my belay loop got clipped into a quickdraw on the crux... waaah! Fairly confident I can do this next time though, the rockover in the middle feel easy now and the top is doable though hard- would be my first 7b!
Nutrition stuff went ok- had mini meltdowns a couple of times getting over hungry. This week introduced some small changes to when I eat to see if I can stay more stable/sane. Also had a DEXA scan yesterday to start with an accurate measure of starting point from a body composition point of view. I'll add something about results next week.
Won't be cragging this weekend- training only, so hoping to crank the intensity up a notch from previous weeks. I listened to Steve Bechtel do a podcast with Kris Hampton on his new book Logical Progression: Non-Linear Periodisation for Year Round Climbing Performance. The approach he is advocating (basically just do strength, p/e, endurance sessions in order over time) makes a lot of sense to me now I've started climbing outside most weekends.
With my spring training plan it was really hard to know what was 'ok' to drop to go climbing at the weekend, and it made me feel kind of guilty and more likely to drop other sessions. It was laid out as something like 6 3-4 hours sessions a week, which was pretty unrealistic for me. It wasn't linear periodisation though, more like periods with a specific focus and other things on simmer, but without the analytic approach of 'how few of these sessions can I do and not loose performance' in that area. Anyone got thoughts on this kind of programming? (I'm trying to decide what form a plan should take over the winter, whether to start working with a new coach etc. I guess since I won't be climbing outside much between Dec-Feb it would be fine to do a linear 12 week program anyway but hey!).
Monday: rest
Tuesday: hard bouldering session on wave, finished with 5ish steep but easy lead routes
Wednesday: 1.5 hours 3/4 intensity bouldering- didn't have the same pop as the day before
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Cuttings- happy to onsight Flowers on Razor Wire (it's been on my list for a while), did a few other bits
Saturday: Ridiculously windy, did 1.9 pitches and went to sit in a cafe
Sunday: Got back on Dumbfounded 7b. Made progress- climbed it cleanly on TR. I had 3 goes on lead but no dice. The 2nd time felt promising but my belay loop got clipped into a quickdraw on the crux... waaah! Fairly confident I can do this next time though, the rockover in the middle feel easy now and the top is doable though hard- would be my first 7b!
Nutrition stuff went ok- had mini meltdowns a couple of times getting over hungry. This week introduced some small changes to when I eat to see if I can stay more stable/sane. Also had a DEXA scan yesterday to start with an accurate measure of starting point from a body composition point of view. I'll add something about results next week.
Won't be cragging this weekend- training only, so hoping to crank the intensity up a notch from previous weeks. I listened to Steve Bechtel do a podcast with Kris Hampton on his new book Logical Progression: Non-Linear Periodisation for Year Round Climbing Performance. The approach he is advocating (basically just do strength, p/e, endurance sessions in order over time) makes a lot of sense to me now I've started climbing outside most weekends.
With my spring training plan it was really hard to know what was 'ok' to drop to go climbing at the weekend, and it made me feel kind of guilty and more likely to drop other sessions. It was laid out as something like 6 3-4 hours sessions a week, which was pretty unrealistic for me. It wasn't linear periodisation though, more like periods with a specific focus and other things on simmer, but without the analytic approach of 'how few of these sessions can I do and not loose performance' in that area. Anyone got thoughts on this kind of programming? (I'm trying to decide what form a plan should take over the winter, whether to start working with a new coach etc. I guess since I won't be climbing outside much between Dec-Feb it would be fine to do a linear 12 week program anyway but hey!).
2
In reply to guy127917:
I always figured that if you're not doing specific trip periodisation you look at what you're doing outside and use the indoor time to fill in the gaps, with a background strength training quota since that's the long term limiting factor for most people.
Usually, that meant indoor strength, and maybe base fitness especially if (as likely over winter) your outdoor climbing consists of boulder problems or bouldery routes.
I always figured that if you're not doing specific trip periodisation you look at what you're doing outside and use the indoor time to fill in the gaps, with a background strength training quota since that's the long term limiting factor for most people.
Usually, that meant indoor strength, and maybe base fitness especially if (as likely over winter) your outdoor climbing consists of boulder problems or bouldery routes.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the top statting as always Guy!
Sorry about the AWOL last week, I didn't have much motivation to report my week of very little activity. It was very similar this week just gone too, trying to find a level where I can do something without upsetting the elbow. I think I've bottomed it out now, I had 3 sessions without it getting any worse so at least I can still climb.
Been in Margalef for 4 days now and climbed up to 6c/+ each day without any worsening effects. It's not improving but it's a start!
Resisting the urge to pull on hard stuff has been the hardest part of the holiday, but at least the temps are great for just hanging around and being social at the crag.
More detailed report next week
Thanks for the top statting as always Guy!
Sorry about the AWOL last week, I didn't have much motivation to report my week of very little activity. It was very similar this week just gone too, trying to find a level where I can do something without upsetting the elbow. I think I've bottomed it out now, I had 3 sessions without it getting any worse so at least I can still climb.
Been in Margalef for 4 days now and climbed up to 6c/+ each day without any worsening effects. It's not improving but it's a start!
Resisting the urge to pull on hard stuff has been the hardest part of the holiday, but at least the temps are great for just hanging around and being social at the crag.
More detailed report next week
1
In reply to guy127917:
I wish, I ended up spending a lot of time in the "death zone" up there waiting in those lines.
What did I do last week...
Some point mid-week: Went bouldering. I think the top-outs were wet on all the problems I found this time so just spent some time trying moves and chickening out. I sent my warm-up, Lillehagens blomster (f3).
Thursday: Sport climbing. Sent the easy F3b Die Eder (n3), and a F4b Varulv (n4). The F5b we wanted to attempt was wet. Climbing partner left my liquid chalk behind at the crag.
Friday: Did a gym session. Hadn't been in the gym for a month because I've gotten to mainly climb outside. Ended up flashing a bunch of 6As and a 6A+ and also did another 6A+ second try. I think going forward I should stick to 6A+ to work my way up to being comfortable on 6B.
Some other point during the week: Did a bodyweight fitness session. I got my first set of 10 uneven pull-ups (for those who wonder what uneven pull-ups are, warning: Man in boxer shorts https://www.instagram.com/p/BaYy-JSjvMn/?taken-by=thefasting)
Got a new PR of 15 uneven push-ups (one arm out to the side, one of the steps toward a one-arm push-up).
Then 2 sets of 10 pike push-ups, 5 hindu push-ups, and 5 pistol squats on each leg.
Sunday: Did a 3 hour fasted session going up and down the steepest ski slope in Oslo in rain and wind. Did 1050m of elevation gain. Bonked super hard on the last lap (250m gain each lap, so the 4th).
I wish, I ended up spending a lot of time in the "death zone" up there waiting in those lines.
What did I do last week...
Some point mid-week: Went bouldering. I think the top-outs were wet on all the problems I found this time so just spent some time trying moves and chickening out. I sent my warm-up, Lillehagens blomster (f3).
Thursday: Sport climbing. Sent the easy F3b Die Eder (n3), and a F4b Varulv (n4). The F5b we wanted to attempt was wet. Climbing partner left my liquid chalk behind at the crag.
Friday: Did a gym session. Hadn't been in the gym for a month because I've gotten to mainly climb outside. Ended up flashing a bunch of 6As and a 6A+ and also did another 6A+ second try. I think going forward I should stick to 6A+ to work my way up to being comfortable on 6B.
Some other point during the week: Did a bodyweight fitness session. I got my first set of 10 uneven pull-ups (for those who wonder what uneven pull-ups are, warning: Man in boxer shorts https://www.instagram.com/p/BaYy-JSjvMn/?taken-by=thefasting)
Got a new PR of 15 uneven push-ups (one arm out to the side, one of the steps toward a one-arm push-up).
Then 2 sets of 10 pike push-ups, 5 hindu push-ups, and 5 pistol squats on each leg.
Sunday: Did a 3 hour fasted session going up and down the steepest ski slope in Oslo in rain and wind. Did 1050m of elevation gain. Bonked super hard on the last lap (250m gain each lap, so the 4th).
Post edited at 13:32
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...