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Good morning all. The last week of Challenge 555 is upon us, that means just 7 more days to get down to the gym/crag/greek island and send your projects!
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
Completed
=========
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181 (x) (/)
AJM: another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) Steady Training for trip (/) Force Majeure (x) An E2 or E3 (x)
In Progress
==========
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (/)
hms: Redpoint lead comp (x) magma1 (/) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
planetmarshall: Frogland (5.8) or (hopefully and) Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (/) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (/) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (/) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)
Declared DNF (retired/injured/circumstances etc)
===
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=673111
mattrm: Good work! do you have regular partners for your gym climbing?
mrchewy: Nice to see the rehab work is paying off on the shoulder. Have you got strengthening exercises for knee stability as well?
Si dH: Do you schedule de-load/recovery weeks when planning over a couple of months?
Tom Green: Congrats on the 555/6A tick!
AJM: Great update, sounds like you have a very thoughtful approach to the trip.
Jen Jones: Well done on refining the goals, they all seem specific measurable achievable and relevant and timely
planetmarshall: Sorry to hear you had to drop the OMM, enjoy Red Rocks!
the sheep: boom! looks like you turned the dial up on volume last week, feeling good this week?
hokkyokusei: Since your planning on more marathons I guess it’s worth paying quite a bit of attention to how long it takes you to feel back to 100%
Ally Smith: Hope the relaxation levels are high…
biscuit: I too blame sitting at a desk trying to concentrate for all my nutrition woes!
Tyler: I thought about creating a DNF section, but I didn’t want to bum people out.
hms: Congratulations on the 555 tick.
The Fasting: Nice variety of activities last week, keeping you psyched?
guy127917: Nice work on proj, now put in some last minute trip prep!
AlanLittle: Looks like a good start to your trip, we have our fingers crossed for your goal!
Dandan82: Good to hear your are getting some climbing in at least- does this mean Mrs Dandan is getting first choice of crag/route?
AWOL: Bobling, Just Tintin, snoop6060, annak
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
Completed
=========
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181 (x) (/)
AJM: another fb7 (/) Do some DWS (/) Steady Training for trip (/) Force Majeure (x) An E2 or E3 (x)
In Progress
==========
biscuit: get fingerboard up (/), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (1/2)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -12kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (/)
hms: Redpoint lead comp (x) magma1 (/) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (/) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
planetmarshall: Frogland (5.8) or (hopefully and) Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Average three shoulder rehab sessions per week (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (/) 5km at 5min/km (/)
Jen Jones: Lead 4 of my DNFs (/) complete the beasty 5a fingerboard session (/) boulder a V5 at the climbing wall (x)
Declared DNF (retired/injured/circumstances etc)
===
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=673111
mattrm: Good work! do you have regular partners for your gym climbing?
mrchewy: Nice to see the rehab work is paying off on the shoulder. Have you got strengthening exercises for knee stability as well?
Si dH: Do you schedule de-load/recovery weeks when planning over a couple of months?
Tom Green: Congrats on the 555/6A tick!
AJM: Great update, sounds like you have a very thoughtful approach to the trip.
Jen Jones: Well done on refining the goals, they all seem specific measurable achievable and relevant and timely
planetmarshall: Sorry to hear you had to drop the OMM, enjoy Red Rocks!
the sheep: boom! looks like you turned the dial up on volume last week, feeling good this week?
hokkyokusei: Since your planning on more marathons I guess it’s worth paying quite a bit of attention to how long it takes you to feel back to 100%
Ally Smith: Hope the relaxation levels are high…
biscuit: I too blame sitting at a desk trying to concentrate for all my nutrition woes!
Tyler: I thought about creating a DNF section, but I didn’t want to bum people out.
hms: Congratulations on the 555 tick.
The Fasting: Nice variety of activities last week, keeping you psyched?
guy127917: Nice work on proj, now put in some last minute trip prep!
AlanLittle: Looks like a good start to your trip, we have our fingers crossed for your goal!
Dandan82: Good to hear your are getting some climbing in at least- does this mean Mrs Dandan is getting first choice of crag/route?
AWOL: Bobling, Just Tintin, snoop6060, annak
4
In reply to guy127917:
I've had so many issues with the right knee, including three ops, that I know the drills for rehab intimately. It's gently gently at the moment however, as the whole unit is feeling super tweaky. No bad falls at Font!
Anyways, so much for shoulder rehab. Saw the physio again on Friday. I finally got a diagnosis on of what's been causing the left shoulder general weakness and 'impingement' issues - calcific tendonitis of the rotator cuff.
The physio thinks that surgery can definitely be avoided and there's zero point in anti-flams of any sort, as it has been an issue I guess for three years at least and almost certainly down to repetitive work action, plus turning the steering wheel right and then made worse by climbing and ignoring the warnings signs. By the time I started to do anything about it it was too late and he not so laughingly called the area 'dead'.
I had initial shockwave therapy on Friday and going forwards he's shown me how and where to manipulate the tendon in the hope of encouraging regeneration., but warned me that this may take some time. I'm hoping as a quick healer I can get sorted for next summer. However the thoracic is working fine and the scapulae are moving well, so it's just a matter of untightening the front of the shoulders/pecs now.
BHAG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m and a lot of pitches!!!
STG - 5 min plank
LTG - 7A and 7a
Mon - Rehab shizzle 2hr. Tried plank properly for the first time since back issues - 2 min 30 sec. Pretty happy with that, shook from about 15sec tho!
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rehab shizzle 2hr. Another good session, managing everything the physio had set for me and then doing it all again.
Thu - Rehab shizzle 1hr. Plank 2 min.
Fri - Saw physio, outlined above. Plank 3 min (nice improvement and only stopped because the shockwave area started to hurt).
Sat - Rest as instructed. Being hungover had nothing to do with it.
Sun - Rest as instructed. Might try plank later.
I drive to down to Font on Tuesday night for a month's stay. I've flashed 6A and 6A+ in the forest, so a 6B flash would be nice (I already have 4 of them elsewhere) but I think with the shoulder weakness and the knee issues if I fall badly, I just might stick mostly to the orange circuits and enjoy myself. That'll give me plenty of time for rehab too, as I won't be aching too much.
I've had so many issues with the right knee, including three ops, that I know the drills for rehab intimately. It's gently gently at the moment however, as the whole unit is feeling super tweaky. No bad falls at Font!
Anyways, so much for shoulder rehab. Saw the physio again on Friday. I finally got a diagnosis on of what's been causing the left shoulder general weakness and 'impingement' issues - calcific tendonitis of the rotator cuff.
The physio thinks that surgery can definitely be avoided and there's zero point in anti-flams of any sort, as it has been an issue I guess for three years at least and almost certainly down to repetitive work action, plus turning the steering wheel right and then made worse by climbing and ignoring the warnings signs. By the time I started to do anything about it it was too late and he not so laughingly called the area 'dead'.
I had initial shockwave therapy on Friday and going forwards he's shown me how and where to manipulate the tendon in the hope of encouraging regeneration., but warned me that this may take some time. I'm hoping as a quick healer I can get sorted for next summer. However the thoracic is working fine and the scapulae are moving well, so it's just a matter of untightening the front of the shoulders/pecs now.
BHAG and next summer's - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m and a lot of pitches!!!
STG - 5 min plank
LTG - 7A and 7a
Mon - Rehab shizzle 2hr. Tried plank properly for the first time since back issues - 2 min 30 sec. Pretty happy with that, shook from about 15sec tho!
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rehab shizzle 2hr. Another good session, managing everything the physio had set for me and then doing it all again.
Thu - Rehab shizzle 1hr. Plank 2 min.
Fri - Saw physio, outlined above. Plank 3 min (nice improvement and only stopped because the shockwave area started to hurt).
Sat - Rest as instructed. Being hungover had nothing to do with it.
Sun - Rest as instructed. Might try plank later.
I drive to down to Font on Tuesday night for a month's stay. I've flashed 6A and 6A+ in the forest, so a 6B flash would be nice (I already have 4 of them elsewhere) but I think with the shoulder weakness and the knee issues if I fall badly, I just might stick mostly to the orange circuits and enjoy myself. That'll give me plenty of time for rehab too, as I won't be aching too much.
Post edited at 12:04
1
In reply to guy127917:
Not looking particularly likely at the halfway mark. Wonderful place, very impressed. I'm fit, all the plastic endurance training has worked, but I've been out so little since the summer that I really needed the first week just to get some rock leading head and fluency together. And my situation with partners is not ideal, being the odd number in a team consisting entirely of Kaly first timers who are more motivated to see as many crags as possible than to do repeat visits for projects. Which is fair enough, but frustrating for me being in a group with incompatible priorities.
Remains to be seen if I will be able to change this in the coming week, or if I need to shift my aim more to onsighting rather than redpointing. Which might do me more good longer term anyway in terms of confidence. I'm definitely a notch up from where I've ever been before: my confident onsight level has been around 6a+/b for quite some time, with first-go 6c a rare event, and here so far I've done two of those in a week and come within one move of my first ever 6c+ flash. See revised STG.
STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b and/or onsight 6c+ on Kalymnos.
MTG: Plan next Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Iliada. More onsight acclimatisation mileage. The routes we did were nowhere near as steep & pumpy as the ones on Eros yesterday, but found a couple of 6b's quite tricky technically.
T: Arhi. More mileage including a flash of 4 U (6c+) - "6c+" on ukc but it definitely isn't. 6c in the current guidebook and low end at that I'd say. But one more at the grade and I will have doubled my lifetime total of first-go 6c's.
W: Rest day. Archaeological Museum, yoga, beer with AJM.
T: Odyssey. Least favourite crag so far, crowded & polished, but pleasant to spend a day climbing with AJM & family
F: Ghost Kitchen. Excellent day, best crag so far. Fell one hold away from easy ground on what would have been my first ever 6c+ flash on the superb Globus (6c+), fired on by AJM & mini-AJM.
S: Arginonta. Another Saturday, another Kaly rookie error going to a south facing, sheltered crag on a warm day. Had a couple of goes on Sex in the City (7a) - short but sweet powerful crimping on a slightly overhanging wall - but even before the sun came on it it got warm, the crimps got greasy and Game Over.
S: Rest day.
> AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
Not looking particularly likely at the halfway mark. Wonderful place, very impressed. I'm fit, all the plastic endurance training has worked, but I've been out so little since the summer that I really needed the first week just to get some rock leading head and fluency together. And my situation with partners is not ideal, being the odd number in a team consisting entirely of Kaly first timers who are more motivated to see as many crags as possible than to do repeat visits for projects. Which is fair enough, but frustrating for me being in a group with incompatible priorities.
Remains to be seen if I will be able to change this in the coming week, or if I need to shift my aim more to onsighting rather than redpointing. Which might do me more good longer term anyway in terms of confidence. I'm definitely a notch up from where I've ever been before: my confident onsight level has been around 6a+/b for quite some time, with first-go 6c a rare event, and here so far I've done two of those in a week and come within one move of my first ever 6c+ flash. See revised STG.
STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b and/or onsight 6c+ on Kalymnos.
MTG: Plan next Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Iliada. More onsight acclimatisation mileage. The routes we did were nowhere near as steep & pumpy as the ones on Eros yesterday, but found a couple of 6b's quite tricky technically.
T: Arhi. More mileage including a flash of 4 U (6c+) - "6c+" on ukc but it definitely isn't. 6c in the current guidebook and low end at that I'd say. But one more at the grade and I will have doubled my lifetime total of first-go 6c's.
W: Rest day. Archaeological Museum, yoga, beer with AJM.
T: Odyssey. Least favourite crag so far, crowded & polished, but pleasant to spend a day climbing with AJM & family
F: Ghost Kitchen. Excellent day, best crag so far. Fell one hold away from easy ground on what would have been my first ever 6c+ flash on the superb Globus (6c+), fired on by AJM & mini-AJM.
S: Arginonta. Another Saturday, another Kaly rookie error going to a south facing, sheltered crag on a warm day. Had a couple of goes on Sex in the City (7a) - short but sweet powerful crimping on a slightly overhanging wall - but even before the sun came on it it got warm, the crimps got greasy and Game Over.
S: Rest day.
Post edited at 13:22
4
In reply to AlanLittle:
6c+s - being deliberately a bit vague to preserve your onsights and assuming that I should avoid super pumpy/relentless routes - Axium (6c+) with a crux where you might not expect, Ricounet (7a) requires a bit of attack at one point, The Siege of Thermopylae (6c+) if you feel good on feet and thin stuff, Arion (6c+) is short, steep and punchy,
Are you out tomorrow? Unsure what we are doing, it’s our last day but may be chilling rather than climbing.
> STG (20th Oct to 5th Nov): 555 goal: redpoint 7b and/or onsight 6c+ on Kalymnos.
6c+s - being deliberately a bit vague to preserve your onsights and assuming that I should avoid super pumpy/relentless routes - Axium (6c+) with a crux where you might not expect, Ricounet (7a) requires a bit of attack at one point, The Siege of Thermopylae (6c+) if you feel good on feet and thin stuff, Arion (6c+) is short, steep and punchy,
Are you out tomorrow? Unsure what we are doing, it’s our last day but may be chilling rather than climbing.
In reply to guy127917:
As ever, thanks guy. Potentially the last climbing day now done so can sum up the trip. Hard work but worthwhile. The second week feels a lot more productive as I got my eye in a bit more, I found a groove I could work in and also we swapped to and fro a bit more which was ultimately easier.
So, the two weeks looked a bit like this. Last week:
16th - faff, then warmups on Summertime to 6b+
17th - didn’t realise everyone was only doing a half day, went to a kid unfriendly crag, Panorama, did a solitary 6c
18th - Argoninta valley, routes to 6c+ onsight (Arion (6c+))
19th - rest, pirates beach, swimming
20th - MrsAJM not feeling well so Spartacus sans child. Onsights to 6c+ (The Siege of Thermopylae (6c+), fell off Leonides (7b))
21st - secret garden, fell off things, on sighted a 6c+ (Ricounet (7a))
22nd - installing topropes for people at Afternoon - routes to 6c toproped by team members in various stages of pregnancy.
23rd - rest, feeling wiped
24th - wet overnight, Grande Grotte. Repeated DNA, did Elefantenhimmel (7a) second to, fell off the penultimate hold on Cigarillo (7a)
25th - Odyssey, poor day with team faff, 2x 6c
26th - Odyssey with Alan et al. Far better. 6c and 3 6c+ onsights including the excellent and not my style Caribbean Wedding (6c+)
27th - Ghost Kitchen. 6c repeat and 2 6c+ onsights - Dafni (6c+) and Axium (6c+)
28th - baby minding whilst MrsAJM got some routes in
29th - Iannis and Kalydna. A grand finale with 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a and 7a+ onsights - Adolf in the Bay (6c+), Sens Unique (7a), Sickle (7a+).
Overall:
Some 6cs
9 6c+ onsights
1 7a onsight and 1 second go
1 7a+ onsight
Hitting a 6c+ sweet spot seemed to work well - lots of routes I’d have ignored in a chase for the 7s, and I could take on less my style challenges or I could munch through them relatively swiftly in a family friendly manner. Nice to push things out today of course, good to know that once I’m in the groove I can still onsight a bit harder. Maybe I could have started pushing things out a bit sooner, but actually with low overall mileage until the 26th it was ultimately more relaxing and less stressful to be getting miles in the bank rather than going all or nothing on more dicey harder efforts where logistics might have meant getting back to them was harder.
Flying back late late tomorrow which will be hell. If I get anything done tomorrow I’ll add to this post. Don’t really expect to be doing much next week beyond drawing up training priorities potentially.
Oh, and check this out... https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba1eHfZHZ5g/
> AJM: Great update, sounds like you have a very thoughtful approach to the trip.
As ever, thanks guy. Potentially the last climbing day now done so can sum up the trip. Hard work but worthwhile. The second week feels a lot more productive as I got my eye in a bit more, I found a groove I could work in and also we swapped to and fro a bit more which was ultimately easier.
So, the two weeks looked a bit like this. Last week:
16th - faff, then warmups on Summertime to 6b+
17th - didn’t realise everyone was only doing a half day, went to a kid unfriendly crag, Panorama, did a solitary 6c
18th - Argoninta valley, routes to 6c+ onsight (Arion (6c+))
19th - rest, pirates beach, swimming
20th - MrsAJM not feeling well so Spartacus sans child. Onsights to 6c+ (The Siege of Thermopylae (6c+), fell off Leonides (7b))
21st - secret garden, fell off things, on sighted a 6c+ (Ricounet (7a))
22nd - installing topropes for people at Afternoon - routes to 6c toproped by team members in various stages of pregnancy.
23rd - rest, feeling wiped
24th - wet overnight, Grande Grotte. Repeated DNA, did Elefantenhimmel (7a) second to, fell off the penultimate hold on Cigarillo (7a)
25th - Odyssey, poor day with team faff, 2x 6c
26th - Odyssey with Alan et al. Far better. 6c and 3 6c+ onsights including the excellent and not my style Caribbean Wedding (6c+)
27th - Ghost Kitchen. 6c repeat and 2 6c+ onsights - Dafni (6c+) and Axium (6c+)
28th - baby minding whilst MrsAJM got some routes in
29th - Iannis and Kalydna. A grand finale with 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a and 7a+ onsights - Adolf in the Bay (6c+), Sens Unique (7a), Sickle (7a+).
Overall:
Some 6cs
9 6c+ onsights
1 7a onsight and 1 second go
1 7a+ onsight
Hitting a 6c+ sweet spot seemed to work well - lots of routes I’d have ignored in a chase for the 7s, and I could take on less my style challenges or I could munch through them relatively swiftly in a family friendly manner. Nice to push things out today of course, good to know that once I’m in the groove I can still onsight a bit harder. Maybe I could have started pushing things out a bit sooner, but actually with low overall mileage until the 26th it was ultimately more relaxing and less stressful to be getting miles in the bank rather than going all or nothing on more dicey harder efforts where logistics might have meant getting back to them was harder.
Flying back late late tomorrow which will be hell. If I get anything done tomorrow I’ll add to this post. Don’t really expect to be doing much next week beyond drawing up training priorities potentially.
Oh, and check this out... https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba1eHfZHZ5g/
Post edited at 14:37
4
Nice work in Kaly lads and great to see another fitclub meetup.
*Adding in that I did a little run on Friday, no issues yesterday and a 5k brisk walk today to rehab the ACL. Walking definitely stresses the ACL more but once I was warm it didn't feel too bad.
Post edited at 14:40
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
As far as goals go (i'm off to chorro end of this week so this is goal week for me):
The van is not going to get finished before 555. It's about half insulated but nowhere near finished as a whole. Xmas holidays will be the time for that.
Fingerboard is up and been getting used. Going to crack on with max hangs when I get back.
Body fat was still in the mid 12%'s the couple of times I've measured this week. I've deffo let things slide a bit and will get back on the calorie counting waggon when i'm back from chorro. Up to you if you give me that one but more important is the fact I've made changes to my diet (for the better) that feel like they'll stick.
7b circuit - kind of???? The circuit I ended up trying was the 7b+ at BUK. It has been noted it's a bit hard for the grade (or benchmark BUK grading as it's known). I got back on it this week and had 3 goes after a boulder session. First go got through the 1/2 way crux but smacked my hand on a hold and fell off. 2nd go even better. Made it to 2/3rds then had a foot slip. 3rd go fell off 4 moves from the end. Gutted. BUT I've made progress on it everytime and it felt like it was probably too much to handle when I took it on.
Not done much this week. 1 ride to uni (25miles), 1 boulder session on Tuesday and one on Thursday. Had a run yesterday then a mammoth foam rolling session in the eve which left me feeling a bit delicate this morning so I skipped the planned run.
This week will be stretching, working on my shoulder to get it in good shape for the trip, another run(?) a bike in to uni and go to Chorro for 10 days on Thursday.
No goals for the holiday other than to enjoy I'm going to pick routes I can remember enjoying and ones that look cool I've not tried (probably not many of them) and aim for hardish onsighting (or retro flashes)/quick redpointing.
I will be absent for a week or two as i'm going to try to not be on the internet while i'm away. Back on the 12th so will post after that.
Cheers Guy.
As far as goals go (i'm off to chorro end of this week so this is goal week for me):
The van is not going to get finished before 555. It's about half insulated but nowhere near finished as a whole. Xmas holidays will be the time for that.
Fingerboard is up and been getting used. Going to crack on with max hangs when I get back.
Body fat was still in the mid 12%'s the couple of times I've measured this week. I've deffo let things slide a bit and will get back on the calorie counting waggon when i'm back from chorro. Up to you if you give me that one but more important is the fact I've made changes to my diet (for the better) that feel like they'll stick.
7b circuit - kind of???? The circuit I ended up trying was the 7b+ at BUK. It has been noted it's a bit hard for the grade (or benchmark BUK grading as it's known). I got back on it this week and had 3 goes after a boulder session. First go got through the 1/2 way crux but smacked my hand on a hold and fell off. 2nd go even better. Made it to 2/3rds then had a foot slip. 3rd go fell off 4 moves from the end. Gutted. BUT I've made progress on it everytime and it felt like it was probably too much to handle when I took it on.
Not done much this week. 1 ride to uni (25miles), 1 boulder session on Tuesday and one on Thursday. Had a run yesterday then a mammoth foam rolling session in the eve which left me feeling a bit delicate this morning so I skipped the planned run.
This week will be stretching, working on my shoulder to get it in good shape for the trip, another run(?) a bike in to uni and go to Chorro for 10 days on Thursday.
No goals for the holiday other than to enjoy I'm going to pick routes I can remember enjoying and ones that look cool I've not tried (probably not many of them) and aim for hardish onsighting (or retro flashes)/quick redpointing.
I will be absent for a week or two as i'm going to try to not be on the internet while i'm away. Back on the 12th so will post after that.
Post edited at 16:55
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
I don't plan rest weeks other than on non-climbing holidays, although occasionally 'life' tends to force them. I generally prefer to rest in-week, ie do two hard training days and a day outside each week with rest days in between. I very rarely do two days on - usually leads to injury.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: nothing
T: nothing
W: Fingerboard and shoulder workout, pretty good
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: bouldering at Stanton Moor. Warmed up on a 6A and a 6C that I hadn't done before then spent quite a while on Brutal Arête (f7B), aka Spare Rib. Quite a good session, I got past the 2/3 height crux?, which I hadn't managed on my previous session about 2 years ago.
Work very busy, not leaving time/energy for anything in the week at the moment.
Cheers Guy.
I don't plan rest weeks other than on non-climbing holidays, although occasionally 'life' tends to force them. I generally prefer to rest in-week, ie do two hard training days and a day outside each week with rest days in between. I very rarely do two days on - usually leads to injury.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: nothing
T: nothing
W: Fingerboard and shoulder workout, pretty good
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: bouldering at Stanton Moor. Warmed up on a 6A and a 6C that I hadn't done before then spent quite a while on Brutal Arête (f7B), aka Spare Rib. Quite a good session, I got past the 2/3 height crux?, which I hadn't managed on my previous session about 2 years ago.
Work very busy, not leaving time/energy for anything in the week at the moment.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, it must be a relief to be nearing the end of the 555 goals!
This week hasn't been the best... I think a few of my 555 goals have slipped almost out of reach, especially as the final week is going to be heinously busy at work. Still, I've ticked a few 555s as well as a few of my MTGs, so I'm pretty happy.
STG/555 Goals:
1. Establish habit of three shoulder rehab sessions per week (X -but although I haven't been averaging 3, I have developed a fairly regular routine of 2-and-a-bit sessions a week so I'm happy with this)
2. E1 on Grit (X -annoyed that I haven't capitalised on the few recent dry days as well as I could have)
3. E1 on Limestone (X -as for goal 2)
4. F6A in Font (/ -Olympiasme at Beauvois, very chuffed as I find Font font-grades miles harder than UK font-grades so was keen to get a 'benchmark 6A!)
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace (/)
So, 2/5 goals ticked, with an extra half awarded for getting stuck in to some structured rehab exercises!
This week:
M -rest
T -shoulder rehab (bands)
W -Soloed Nor' Nor' Buttress on Tryfan with 12kg bag, continuing up N Ridge to summit. Felt good prep for winter to be climbing and walking with a big bag.
T -Lurgy
F -Lurgy
S -Wedding, drinking to excess
S -Hangover and Shoulder Rehab (bands)
Cheers all,
Tom
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight (/ -Apple at White Goods)
4. M7 Worked
5. 10km at 5m30s/km pace (/)
6. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
Thanks Guy, it must be a relief to be nearing the end of the 555 goals!
This week hasn't been the best... I think a few of my 555 goals have slipped almost out of reach, especially as the final week is going to be heinously busy at work. Still, I've ticked a few 555s as well as a few of my MTGs, so I'm pretty happy.
STG/555 Goals:
1. Establish habit of three shoulder rehab sessions per week (X -but although I haven't been averaging 3, I have developed a fairly regular routine of 2-and-a-bit sessions a week so I'm happy with this)
2. E1 on Grit (X -annoyed that I haven't capitalised on the few recent dry days as well as I could have)
3. E1 on Limestone (X -as for goal 2)
4. F6A in Font (/ -Olympiasme at Beauvois, very chuffed as I find Font font-grades miles harder than UK font-grades so was keen to get a 'benchmark 6A!)
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace (/)
So, 2/5 goals ticked, with an extra half awarded for getting stuck in to some structured rehab exercises!
This week:
M -rest
T -shoulder rehab (bands)
W -Soloed Nor' Nor' Buttress on Tryfan with 12kg bag, continuing up N Ridge to summit. Felt good prep for winter to be climbing and walking with a big bag.
T -Lurgy
F -Lurgy
S -Wedding, drinking to excess
S -Hangover and Shoulder Rehab (bands)
Cheers all,
Tom
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight (/ -Apple at White Goods)
4. M7 Worked
5. 10km at 5m30s/km pace (/)
6. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
1
In reply to Si dH:
Meant to say: on the plus side, my right middle pulley injury is definitely well on the mend.
Meant to say: on the plus side, my right middle pulley injury is definitely well on the mend.
3
In reply to guy127917:
Well the rest of my holiday was a bit of a disappointment from an achievement point of view but I had a great time and I know what Rodellar is all about (knee bars) and what I need to work on (knee bars). I don't feel as if I climbed particularly badly but the physicality of the routes meant I never really recovered on the rest days.
Now psyched for Siurana in December.
Well the rest of my holiday was a bit of a disappointment from an achievement point of view but I had a great time and I know what Rodellar is all about (knee bars) and what I need to work on (knee bars). I don't feel as if I climbed particularly badly but the physicality of the routes meant I never really recovered on the rest days.
Now psyched for Siurana in December.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
My first post, hopefully that's okay from Down Under, I'll try to put conversions in my posts. Still working on my goals but at the moment:
STG: do a pull up / lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG: Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March-ish time when its cooler. 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
LTG: climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday:
Training AM - Lower strength work
- 30kg squats 3x5 sets
- Kettlebell good mornings (16kg) 4x8 sets
- Jump Lunges 4x10 sets
- Box set ups & downs 2-3 mins / 280m run x 3 sets
- V sit ups (20) / Swimmers 1-2 minutes x 3 sets
Tuesday:
Climbing - Kangaroo Point
x 2 lead climbs clean - grade 12 & 13 (4a/4b)
Wednesday:
Training AM - Upper strength work (I didn't write it down so I have forgotten most of it)
I think we did:
- 10 Pull up rows
- one arm dumbbells floor press (10kg) 3x10 sets
- 4 laps of driveway farmers carry with 10kg dumbbells
Can't remember what else.
Thursday:
AM: 2.6km/1.61 mile run - only just getting back to running after a year break due to runners knees
PM: Indoor Climb - all top rope
Overhangs - attempted 21(6b), x2 18's(5c)
Worked on project 23(6c+) - can do moves, just one section need to stick
Attempted 26(7b)
Friday:
Flow & Deep Yoga
Saturday:
MetCon
4 sets of:
20 squats
20 dips
5-10 tire flips
20 push ups
100 mountain climbers
2 laps farmers carry (10kg, then dropped to 7kg dumbbells)
Sunday:
Hangover from wedding / rest day
Hi Guy,
My first post, hopefully that's okay from Down Under, I'll try to put conversions in my posts. Still working on my goals but at the moment:
STG: do a pull up / lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG: Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March-ish time when its cooler. 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
LTG: climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday:
Training AM - Lower strength work
- 30kg squats 3x5 sets
- Kettlebell good mornings (16kg) 4x8 sets
- Jump Lunges 4x10 sets
- Box set ups & downs 2-3 mins / 280m run x 3 sets
- V sit ups (20) / Swimmers 1-2 minutes x 3 sets
Tuesday:
Climbing - Kangaroo Point
x 2 lead climbs clean - grade 12 & 13 (4a/4b)
Wednesday:
Training AM - Upper strength work (I didn't write it down so I have forgotten most of it)
I think we did:
- 10 Pull up rows
- one arm dumbbells floor press (10kg) 3x10 sets
- 4 laps of driveway farmers carry with 10kg dumbbells
Can't remember what else.
Thursday:
AM: 2.6km/1.61 mile run - only just getting back to running after a year break due to runners knees
PM: Indoor Climb - all top rope
Overhangs - attempted 21(6b), x2 18's(5c)
Worked on project 23(6c+) - can do moves, just one section need to stick
Attempted 26(7b)
Friday:
Flow & Deep Yoga
Saturday:
MetCon
4 sets of:
20 squats
20 dips
5-10 tire flips
20 push ups
100 mountain climbers
2 laps farmers carry (10kg, then dropped to 7kg dumbbells)
Sunday:
Hangover from wedding / rest day
4
In reply to LauraMorrissey:
Welcome to the club, I have to say, that's a strange wedding you went to on the Saturday...
> Saturday:
> MetCon
> 4 sets of:
> 20 squats
> 20 dips
> 5-10 tire flips
> 20 push ups
> 100 mountain climbers
> 2 laps farmers carry (10kg, then dropped to 7kg dumbbells)
> Sunday:
> Hangover from wedding / rest day
Welcome to the club, I have to say, that's a strange wedding you went to on the Saturday...
3
1
In reply to guy127917:
Yeah I like to do a lot of variation, considering my goal is more in the Himalayas and 7 summits direction I have to squeeze a lot of cardio in there too. But I think my bouldering helps my sport climbing which helps my trad climbing which helps my alpine climbing. I've certainly seen that so far, I'm a lot more confident on tricky terrain because I know I've made it through a lot worse when bouldering.
As usual I always forget that part of the week that wasn't 3 days ago.
M: Indoor climbing. Still felt it from last session so just did a 6A+ in a few tries, was close to sending my 6A+ 12 move cave problem but fell on the last move. Then did all the autobelayable F4 and F5s up to an F5c+ (this is the only place I've seen that grade) easily on the first try.
I'll get chewed out for this here but writing it for logging purposes and I think it's time I started:
Did my first hangboarding session. Did Bechtel's ladder program with 3 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand, crimp and half crimp.
Doing the first test the holds I could hang for 12 seconds (and use for the rest of the program) were 30mm for open hand, 20mm for crimp and 20mm for half crimp.
T: Don't think I did anything?
W: Don't think I did anything?
T: Bodyweight strength session.
PRed again with uneven push-ups for 20 reps on the right and 18 reps on the left. Nearly at the progression benchmark of 2 sets of 20.
PRed my uneven pull-ups with a set of 10 on my left arm, and 1 set of 10 and 1 set of 9 on my right. Progression benchmark is 2 sets of 9
Got my pistol squats back up to 11 reps on my right. Left leg lagging as always at 7 reps. Time to add some weight.
PRed assisted handstand push-ups (legs on a chair like an L shape) with 10 reps. Then did 6 hindu push-ups.
F: 1 hour stair climbing session. 572m elevation gain.
S: Multipitch trad adventure on the East Wall of Kolsås. Did the super classic F3c Onsager (n3+). Lead the second pitch without much of a hassle, but taking my time to do everything right before committing because it traversed quite a bit and that's when I have to tendency to mess up my balance and slip. Did a traverse on a super exposed ledge under this bulge-like feature with nothing but friction slopers for hands and a bad small cam 4m to my left. Never been so careful about my foot placements.
Awesome climbing with a new partner who has the same aspirations as me so hoping we can get together more but trying not to be too aggressive ya know. Climbing has introduced me to so many weird social interactions with dudes. He said I was a quick and confident leader and said I could easily climb this other VS on the crag. Maybe I'm getting better at this.
Su: 4 hour stair climbing session, going both up and down this time. Felt exactly like a horrible day in the mountains. 1100m of elevation gain, need to work more on this.
Yeah I like to do a lot of variation, considering my goal is more in the Himalayas and 7 summits direction I have to squeeze a lot of cardio in there too. But I think my bouldering helps my sport climbing which helps my trad climbing which helps my alpine climbing. I've certainly seen that so far, I'm a lot more confident on tricky terrain because I know I've made it through a lot worse when bouldering.
As usual I always forget that part of the week that wasn't 3 days ago.
M: Indoor climbing. Still felt it from last session so just did a 6A+ in a few tries, was close to sending my 6A+ 12 move cave problem but fell on the last move. Then did all the autobelayable F4 and F5s up to an F5c+ (this is the only place I've seen that grade) easily on the first try.
I'll get chewed out for this here but writing it for logging purposes and I think it's time I started:
Did my first hangboarding session. Did Bechtel's ladder program with 3 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand, crimp and half crimp.
Doing the first test the holds I could hang for 12 seconds (and use for the rest of the program) were 30mm for open hand, 20mm for crimp and 20mm for half crimp.
T: Don't think I did anything?
W: Don't think I did anything?
T: Bodyweight strength session.
PRed again with uneven push-ups for 20 reps on the right and 18 reps on the left. Nearly at the progression benchmark of 2 sets of 20.
PRed my uneven pull-ups with a set of 10 on my left arm, and 1 set of 10 and 1 set of 9 on my right. Progression benchmark is 2 sets of 9
Got my pistol squats back up to 11 reps on my right. Left leg lagging as always at 7 reps. Time to add some weight.
PRed assisted handstand push-ups (legs on a chair like an L shape) with 10 reps. Then did 6 hindu push-ups.
F: 1 hour stair climbing session. 572m elevation gain.
S: Multipitch trad adventure on the East Wall of Kolsås. Did the super classic F3c Onsager (n3+). Lead the second pitch without much of a hassle, but taking my time to do everything right before committing because it traversed quite a bit and that's when I have to tendency to mess up my balance and slip. Did a traverse on a super exposed ledge under this bulge-like feature with nothing but friction slopers for hands and a bad small cam 4m to my left. Never been so careful about my foot placements.
Awesome climbing with a new partner who has the same aspirations as me so hoping we can get together more but trying not to be too aggressive ya know. Climbing has introduced me to so many weird social interactions with dudes. He said I was a quick and confident leader and said I could easily climb this other VS on the crag. Maybe I'm getting better at this.
Su: 4 hour stair climbing session, going both up and down this time. Felt exactly like a horrible day in the mountains. 1100m of elevation gain, need to work more on this.
Post edited at 08:29
In reply to guy127917:
Monday:
4 sets campus foot on ladders 1 on 1 off x 3, 6 mins set rest (medium rungs)
3x 8 mins on 8 off aerocap
Tuesday:
Rest
Wednesday:
2 on 1 off x 5 traversing warmup
1.5 hours limit bouldering on the wave
3 x 6 mins on 6 off (pumpy ~6b)
Thursday:
Strength session in the gym-
Turkish getups with 20kg kettlebell (first time I've done these, pretty fun, also sure my form is terrible)
TRX chest flys, shoulder flys, one arm flys, pikes,
Ring supports, dips
Bar german hangs, feet to hands
Planks, handstands, one leg squats
Friday:
Max hangs, definitely going in the right direction with these (albeit slowly) which is pleasing considering I've done 1 session every 3 weeks.
8 seys boulder 4x repeats (~v1-3)
Saturday:
Rest
Sunday:
2 good hours on the wave, limit bouldering. Found it hard to get into it, but made some good progress when I finally got psyched. In future, more warmup required on easier boulders, especially if I don't cycle to the wall.
Quite happy with my training last week- plenty of volume and mostly good quality training but definitely feels like the right amount (not too much). Nutrition also went really well, didn't have any major blips which was great for motivation and energy levels throughout the training week.
This week will be more of the same- last proper training week before November 10th trip departure. Aiming to eat well and train hard. I'll be adding a couple of runs in compared to last week as well. On the 555 goals- I'm treating an ungraded wave problem (yellow/red spotty) as my v6 though it may only be v5- I'm not going to be doing any other bouldering this week otherwise. I'll do my best on the handstand video but I can't really pull it off yet! And I will be doing a max hangs where I will target 5s of -12kg on the 18mm hold. I'm not a million miles off that, but we shall see if it is possible. I've completed my "main" goal of a 7a+ outside so haven't put too much effort into the others.
I also had a DEXA scan on Tuesday which gave me an accurate breakdown of where I am carrying fat- mainly on my legs. I came out as 16% BF overall- 12.5kg of total fat. They say the DEXA readings are around 5% more than "folklore" fat estimations which ties in to my expectations- ie I thought I was 11-12% by looking at myself/using calipers. Overall after discussing with the DEXA guy and my nutritionist I'll be looking to lose around 3-3.5kg of fat plus a small amount of muscle to get down to 78-79kg. I'll be starting this after returning from Spain (end of November).
Monday:
4 sets campus foot on ladders 1 on 1 off x 3, 6 mins set rest (medium rungs)
3x 8 mins on 8 off aerocap
Tuesday:
Rest
Wednesday:
2 on 1 off x 5 traversing warmup
1.5 hours limit bouldering on the wave
3 x 6 mins on 6 off (pumpy ~6b)
Thursday:
Strength session in the gym-
Turkish getups with 20kg kettlebell (first time I've done these, pretty fun, also sure my form is terrible)
TRX chest flys, shoulder flys, one arm flys, pikes,
Ring supports, dips
Bar german hangs, feet to hands
Planks, handstands, one leg squats
Friday:
Max hangs, definitely going in the right direction with these (albeit slowly) which is pleasing considering I've done 1 session every 3 weeks.
8 seys boulder 4x repeats (~v1-3)
Saturday:
Rest
Sunday:
2 good hours on the wave, limit bouldering. Found it hard to get into it, but made some good progress when I finally got psyched. In future, more warmup required on easier boulders, especially if I don't cycle to the wall.
Quite happy with my training last week- plenty of volume and mostly good quality training but definitely feels like the right amount (not too much). Nutrition also went really well, didn't have any major blips which was great for motivation and energy levels throughout the training week.
This week will be more of the same- last proper training week before November 10th trip departure. Aiming to eat well and train hard. I'll be adding a couple of runs in compared to last week as well. On the 555 goals- I'm treating an ungraded wave problem (yellow/red spotty) as my v6 though it may only be v5- I'm not going to be doing any other bouldering this week otherwise. I'll do my best on the handstand video but I can't really pull it off yet! And I will be doing a max hangs where I will target 5s of -12kg on the 18mm hold. I'm not a million miles off that, but we shall see if it is possible. I've completed my "main" goal of a 7a+ outside so haven't put too much effort into the others.
I also had a DEXA scan on Tuesday which gave me an accurate breakdown of where I am carrying fat- mainly on my legs. I came out as 16% BF overall- 12.5kg of total fat. They say the DEXA readings are around 5% more than "folklore" fat estimations which ties in to my expectations- ie I thought I was 11-12% by looking at myself/using calipers. Overall after discussing with the DEXA guy and my nutritionist I'll be looking to lose around 3-3.5kg of fat plus a small amount of muscle to get down to 78-79kg. I'll be starting this after returning from Spain (end of November).
1
In reply to TheFasting:
No-one is going to criticize you for starting to add some hangs in! Doing it after climbing sounds sensible for you right now though- don't replace time you could spend developing technique with hang time, but adding to it should be fine. Steve Bechtel talks about that stuff at length.
No-one is going to criticize you for starting to add some hangs in! Doing it after climbing sounds sensible for you right now though- don't replace time you could spend developing technique with hang time, but adding to it should be fine. Steve Bechtel talks about that stuff at length.
Post edited at 08:44
1
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. I had a steady week - didn't want to rest as such as I'm off to Spain in 2 weeks time, but didn't want to push hard either.
M - return from Ariege. Would have squeezed in yoga but the lady who runs it was ill.
T - cycle commute. Lots of antagonist & prehab stuff in the evening with rather a feeling of guilt as this has tended to slide a bit.
W - cycle commute. FB in evening, warmup then 5/10/5/3 hangs 8 lots with up to 17kg added weight, 7/3/6/1 10 lots on 20mm edges and 5kg assist to finish.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening trying new V2-V4 set. 7 still to tick of which 3 should go ok, 3 I doubt will ever go, 1 more beta needed. Quick 7/3/6/1 x10 on big slots when we got home.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Some extreme antagonist exercise pulling the bottom of a rotten fence post out of a hole, then managed to smash my right thumb nail with the sledgehammer putting the new post in.
S - SWLCC comp at Redpoint. It was a nice day which I think kept a lot of people away so it wasn't very busy at all. There were 2 other vet female entries but they are rather trad bimblers, don't think they even tried the last 2 routes and they vanished before the final. As the only vet female there for the final I was given the option to not bother to climb the route, but as this was supposed to be about comfort zones and confidence that seemed like utter cowardice. Got on ok - fell off tickling the final hold. Also found that I climb a flip of a lot faster when full of adrenaline and going for it in front of a crowd. So, another 555 tick please!!
S - did absolutely nothing of note at all.
thanks Guy. I had a steady week - didn't want to rest as such as I'm off to Spain in 2 weeks time, but didn't want to push hard either.
M - return from Ariege. Would have squeezed in yoga but the lady who runs it was ill.
T - cycle commute. Lots of antagonist & prehab stuff in the evening with rather a feeling of guilt as this has tended to slide a bit.
W - cycle commute. FB in evening, warmup then 5/10/5/3 hangs 8 lots with up to 17kg added weight, 7/3/6/1 10 lots on 20mm edges and 5kg assist to finish.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening trying new V2-V4 set. 7 still to tick of which 3 should go ok, 3 I doubt will ever go, 1 more beta needed. Quick 7/3/6/1 x10 on big slots when we got home.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Some extreme antagonist exercise pulling the bottom of a rotten fence post out of a hole, then managed to smash my right thumb nail with the sledgehammer putting the new post in.
S - SWLCC comp at Redpoint. It was a nice day which I think kept a lot of people away so it wasn't very busy at all. There were 2 other vet female entries but they are rather trad bimblers, don't think they even tried the last 2 routes and they vanished before the final. As the only vet female there for the final I was given the option to not bother to climb the route, but as this was supposed to be about comfort zones and confidence that seemed like utter cowardice. Got on ok - fell off tickling the final hold. Also found that I climb a flip of a lot faster when full of adrenaline and going for it in front of a crowd. So, another 555 tick please!!
S - did absolutely nothing of note at all.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Hello Guy,
I made the mistake last week of writing a bunch of stuff on fitclub and then forgetting about a lot of it until yesterday.
Also I found a few excuses not to run. I was at my parents in the country, a few people have questioned whether my heart rate is normal and I don't seem to be recovering very well from training. My arms, back and fingers have also been hurting and I have been getting pins and needles in my hands multiple times a day. Anyway, I should have gone out running. I did walk around IKEA for a few hours will a massive haul, which was pretty good exercise.
I read some of training for new alpinism and have started to make a training plan for my endurance from this. The book confirmed lots and lots of very low level training in zone 1 (according to my current max hr of 193bpm this should be 93-111 bpm) along with a few 'normal' zone 3 (130-148 bpm) runs. As my heart rates goes up to 112 bpm just wandering around the flat these heart rates don't seem possible but I will try to figure this out over the coming weeks.
From last week: 1. work on my 555 V5 send - I keep trying hard; 2. make a start on training for new alpinism and decide on some goals - started reading; 3. stretch after every session - erm :S ; 4. lead 3 climbs every session -did this 1 out of 3. 5. 5C beasty fingerboard session - will be doing this today
So what I did do this week:
Mon: Bouldering - climbed the pink (V4-6) and the orange (V4) first go that I worked previously. Also managed the tiny holds of the orange V4 that sent me home with a shoulder twinge the week before.
Campus ladders feet on 1-3-3-2-1 - (1 min on/1 min off x 3 then 6 mins rest) x 3 - came off a lot on the last set, I think I need to change ratios to complete this. Next time will try 45 secs on and 1.5 mins rest and work from there.
Leading in the Wells - I did my three lead climbs - a 7a with falls, then rainbowed to recover from previous attempt, then lead 7a again. This has now become a project for next time I lead. I have all the moves, just need the endurance to keep it going until the top.
Tues: Rest - feeling pretty battered from some hard sessions and felt like my body needed rest.
Weds: More rest
Thurs: Even more rest
Fri: Bouldering - unable to climb the orange from the previous two sessions and struggled on a few climbs that I had found quite easy before. Found I couldn't pull on much after a couple of hours.
Sat: 3.5 hours of top-roping with a new climbing partner. I did the 7a from a few weeks ago, no problem. Tried another one and got stuck on one move. Did a 6b slab a couple of times to build confidence on this type of climb. I worked pretty hard, got a lot of moves and had a good session.
Sun: Gymnastics tumbling class for 1hr. Handstands, cartwheels, front rolls and front somersaults. Good to build confidence throwing myself around and lots of fun too. Will try the strength class when I get back from Spain as I would like some tips to get a front lever (MTG)
So for this week: Run x 4 and work out a plan according to what I learn this week. V5 V5 V5! Beasty 5c. Write down all goals so I don't forget them ;p
Hello Guy,
I made the mistake last week of writing a bunch of stuff on fitclub and then forgetting about a lot of it until yesterday.
Also I found a few excuses not to run. I was at my parents in the country, a few people have questioned whether my heart rate is normal and I don't seem to be recovering very well from training. My arms, back and fingers have also been hurting and I have been getting pins and needles in my hands multiple times a day. Anyway, I should have gone out running. I did walk around IKEA for a few hours will a massive haul, which was pretty good exercise.
I read some of training for new alpinism and have started to make a training plan for my endurance from this. The book confirmed lots and lots of very low level training in zone 1 (according to my current max hr of 193bpm this should be 93-111 bpm) along with a few 'normal' zone 3 (130-148 bpm) runs. As my heart rates goes up to 112 bpm just wandering around the flat these heart rates don't seem possible but I will try to figure this out over the coming weeks.
From last week: 1. work on my 555 V5 send - I keep trying hard; 2. make a start on training for new alpinism and decide on some goals - started reading; 3. stretch after every session - erm :S ; 4. lead 3 climbs every session -did this 1 out of 3. 5. 5C beasty fingerboard session - will be doing this today
So what I did do this week:
Mon: Bouldering - climbed the pink (V4-6) and the orange (V4) first go that I worked previously. Also managed the tiny holds of the orange V4 that sent me home with a shoulder twinge the week before.
Campus ladders feet on 1-3-3-2-1 - (1 min on/1 min off x 3 then 6 mins rest) x 3 - came off a lot on the last set, I think I need to change ratios to complete this. Next time will try 45 secs on and 1.5 mins rest and work from there.
Leading in the Wells - I did my three lead climbs - a 7a with falls, then rainbowed to recover from previous attempt, then lead 7a again. This has now become a project for next time I lead. I have all the moves, just need the endurance to keep it going until the top.
Tues: Rest - feeling pretty battered from some hard sessions and felt like my body needed rest.
Weds: More rest
Thurs: Even more rest
Fri: Bouldering - unable to climb the orange from the previous two sessions and struggled on a few climbs that I had found quite easy before. Found I couldn't pull on much after a couple of hours.
Sat: 3.5 hours of top-roping with a new climbing partner. I did the 7a from a few weeks ago, no problem. Tried another one and got stuck on one move. Did a 6b slab a couple of times to build confidence on this type of climb. I worked pretty hard, got a lot of moves and had a good session.
Sun: Gymnastics tumbling class for 1hr. Handstands, cartwheels, front rolls and front somersaults. Good to build confidence throwing myself around and lots of fun too. Will try the strength class when I get back from Spain as I would like some tips to get a front lever (MTG)
So for this week: Run x 4 and work out a plan according to what I learn this week. V5 V5 V5! Beasty 5c. Write down all goals so I don't forget them ;p
3
In reply to Tyler:
It's not all kneebars! But having the ability to spot and milk them helps if you're at your limit
It's not all kneebars! But having the ability to spot and milk them helps if you're at your limit
In reply to AJM:
Murcia so down from Alicante rather than up.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks. It's a long time since I last did a comp. When the kids stopped competing so did I. How's Burma? Been enjoying the facebook pictures.
Murcia so down from Alicante rather than up.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks. It's a long time since I last did a comp. When the kids stopped competing so did I. How's Burma? Been enjoying the facebook pictures.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
I am sooooo AWOL right now.
Great ticklist in Morocco including my favourites: Reach for the Stars (E3 5c), Jaws (E1 5b), The Golden Compass (E1 5b), Brisingr (HVS), To Teo (HVS 4c), Leaving Las Vegas (E2 5c).
I also should mention I tried to get on Emerald Crack (E3 6a) the weekend before we went but hadn't the strength to pull up into the final crack. Sleep at home still terrible and pretty stressed about work, mum and extra curricular climbing activity pressures which are all coming to a head this week, but it was lovely to have a week away even if I didn't totally let go. Onsighting E3 tired is always a win
Lead E4 route (x) - unlikely to fit this one in
Complete Morocco tick list (x) - completed ish. Ie. complete Ben's ticklist. Have a few left on Nick's list. Wrote myself a whole new harder one for next year.
Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) - not going to fit this one in
WFD (x) - will try this Sunday if dry
Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) - done in Morocco
Run a successful WCS (x) - this weekend hopefully!!!
Hi Guy,
I am sooooo AWOL right now.
Great ticklist in Morocco including my favourites: Reach for the Stars (E3 5c), Jaws (E1 5b), The Golden Compass (E1 5b), Brisingr (HVS), To Teo (HVS 4c), Leaving Las Vegas (E2 5c).
I also should mention I tried to get on Emerald Crack (E3 6a) the weekend before we went but hadn't the strength to pull up into the final crack. Sleep at home still terrible and pretty stressed about work, mum and extra curricular climbing activity pressures which are all coming to a head this week, but it was lovely to have a week away even if I didn't totally let go. Onsighting E3 tired is always a win
Lead E4 route (x) - unlikely to fit this one in
Complete Morocco tick list (x) - completed ish. Ie. complete Ben's ticklist. Have a few left on Nick's list. Wrote myself a whole new harder one for next year.
Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) - not going to fit this one in
WFD (x) - will try this Sunday if dry
Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) - done in Morocco
Run a successful WCS (x) - this weekend hopefully!!!
2
In reply to hms:
Ah I think you told me that. Enjoy!
Winter Portland objectives? Need to do some thinking this week on winter plans
Ah I think you told me that. Enjoy!
Winter Portland objectives? Need to do some thinking this week on winter plans
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, felt pretty good, even had an impromptu afternoon off on Monday so went out to clock up a longer run and test out if the heel/Achilles is OK and came through fine. Very much doubt im going to hit the 555 goals though but its good to be able to get the distance in, just need to work on pace now! Week went as follows;
Monday, 20km run, 50:50 trails and road including some trails I havnt been on before which is interesting when it involves maize fields when the crop is taller than you
Tuesday, gentle 1km swim at lunchtime and a 16k ride home
Wednesday 2km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 6k run with the wife
Friday, 30km ride home
Saturday, 8km run
Sunday, rest
> the sheep: boom! looks like you turned the dial up on volume last week, feeling good this week?
Cheers Guy, felt pretty good, even had an impromptu afternoon off on Monday so went out to clock up a longer run and test out if the heel/Achilles is OK and came through fine. Very much doubt im going to hit the 555 goals though but its good to be able to get the distance in, just need to work on pace now! Week went as follows;
Monday, 20km run, 50:50 trails and road including some trails I havnt been on before which is interesting when it involves maize fields when the crop is taller than you
Tuesday, gentle 1km swim at lunchtime and a 16k ride home
Wednesday 2km lunchtime swim
Thursday, 6k run with the wife
Friday, 30km ride home
Saturday, 8km run
Sunday, rest
In reply to guy127917:
Hi stakes relaxation for me this week!
I managed to over do it trekking; 8 miles in 35 degree heat whilst getting over a second bout of gastroenteritis was too much like hard work so instead of completing the next 2 days of the trek, we checked into a 5* hotel and sat around working on our suntans.
Right now, we're watching the sunset over Inle lake https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba3qK5bhWhT/ and have more sightseeing lined up for tomorrow
Hi stakes relaxation for me this week!
I managed to over do it trekking; 8 miles in 35 degree heat whilst getting over a second bout of gastroenteritis was too much like hard work so instead of completing the next 2 days of the trek, we checked into a 5* hotel and sat around working on our suntans.
Right now, we're watching the sunset over Inle lake https://www.instagram.com/p/Ba3qK5bhWhT/ and have more sightseeing lined up for tomorrow
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks as always Guy!
Yes it absolutely did mean she got first choice of crag, although I was still able to convince her to go over to Catedral one day so I could plan some future endeavours...
Fantastic holiday as usual, despite my inability to pull onto anything hard. I tried to stay positive and enjoy the great weather, good company and some easier routes instead, which seemed to work well.
The elbow has improved overall since before the holiday which is fantastic news, I think the level at which I climbed was just right to aggravate things to encourage a bit of blood flow and healing but not enough to wreck it further. Some mornings it felt more sore than others but it didn't necessarily coincide with harder or easier climbing the day before, there are way too many variables to be able to draw such a simple link, shame!
S: Travel at a very reasonable time, 6.30am start and arrived at the Casa at 6pm local time so plenty of time to cook dinner and have a beer.
S: Espadelles: This was the only cloudy day so we went for a South facing crag, tried out some warm ups on Punta Espadelles on the other side of the valley entrance, then did some of the medium difficulty routes at the first part of the main crag. We've always walked past these and on to the main crag in the past, where Mrs Dandan would complain that there was nothing for her to climb (because a lot of the starts are nails). I've no idea why we always avoided it because the lines look great and climb really nicely. Cue a top rope flash of Setareh (6c) by Mrs Dandan!
Dave opened an account on Maligna (7c) which has gone straight onto my 'to do' list, but after 6 attempts stretching into the sunset, he didn't quite get it.
M: Cabernet: Winner of 'Best New (to us) Crag' from the April trip, we were keen to get back up to here, the views alone make it worth the hike. Most of the routes start from a narrow ledge that is reached either by via ferrata or a short 5+, making them feel really airy. We did the unfortunately named Megapubis (7a) which is 7a all day long but still very very good. I hadn't really planned to push my elbow that hard as it's 6c+ in the guidebook, but I stuck with it and onsighted it, plus the elbow felt particularly good the following morning.
The weirdest point of the holiday occurred when our host, Mac, came into the Casa in the morning and asked if we would go to an Olive grove to be on Spanish TV... Cue an hour of harvesting olives from trees on old wooden ladders and eating delicious cakes soaked in olive oil while a Spanish film crew poked cameras at us. It was for some kind of 'One Show' style program about the local olive oil industry, they want to do tours like vineyards do, which seems a good idea to me, raking olives from trees was surprisingly therapeutic.
T: Can Verdures/ Cova Soleiada; Dave wanted to re-open his account with Doctor Feelgood (8a) from April, while I continued to try and tick the entirety of Can Verdures by doing Samson (6c+) which was off limits due to having bolts replaced when we were last year. It's very good though, although soft even for 6c+, it definitely not the 7a it gets on UKC.
I also did the first 4 bolts of Dr Feelgood in my trainers to retrieve draws, it's really that easy!
W: Espadelles/Catedral/Coma Closa; Dave wanted to nip up to Espadelles to finish off Maligna, which he did, and not a minute too soon as it was roasting when the sun came round! I did another 6c next to the one from Sunday, Guirlache (6c) which was just as enjoyable as it's neighbour. I also climbed the bottom half of Maligna to retrieve draws, which I suppose blows a potential flash (unlikely) but it was good to try something reasonably hard with no pressure. Happy to say it felt ok on the elbow.
We then escaped to the shade of Catedral and Coma Closa. I tried a nails 6c at the end of Catedral but it didn't go clean and it didn't inspire me to have another go. I did eye up Hard Crit (8a) though, which looks awesome and will definitely be getting another visit.
We walked up to the furthest crag from the road in all of Margalef, a new-ish sector up beyond Coma Closa with a 3 letter acronym name which I can't recall, it's in the shiny new photo guidebook though. Dave did a great looking intense 7b and Mac did that and a 7b+.
On the walk down I had the harrowing experience of watching a friend's dog have a bit of an argument with another dog, back up, slip on some gravel and disappear over the edge of the ledge. We rushed to the spot where he fell which was a straight 15 foot drop into trees and bushes, expecting to see him whimpering at the bottom in some state of injury, instead he popped back up onto the ledge a few feet further along, tail wagging, not a scratch on him!
He's a big dog too, German Shepherd sized, how he got away without some kind of horrendous injury I'll never know.
T: Cala Marta; Mrs Dandan wanted another hit at Sutils Perfums (7a), I dogged it up to put a rope on (it was a bit intense for my elbow) and then she had a couple of goes, turns out it's still really hard! Si opened an account on Local Hero (8a), it was good to see someone working it, all the moves soon came flooding back to me.
F: Soleiada/Can Dit Gros; Dave got back on Dr Feelgood while Mrs Dandan and myself wandered over to Can Dit Gros to find some fresh rock. Turned out to be a fantastic crag with a nice variety of grades. The draws were in Indian Holidays (7a) so we got straight on it, a very comfortable onsight for me and Mrs Dandan got her first toprope flash 7a! It was the best route of the week for me, interesting moves on good holds with a little roof to finish. There are plenty of harder routes around for me to come back to so we will definitely be revisiting this crag.
We saw James and Jenny Ibbotson (sp) up there too, they are on a year long road trip with their two boys, the lucky buggers. They told us that the previous day, Josh (the eldest son) had flashed a 7c/+ I had been eyeing up, then immediately onsighted the 7c+ next to it with no rest! Oh, and this was after coming from another crag where he had onsighted 8a... Crazy.
We walked back towards Soleiada and heard cheering, turned out Dave had ticked Feelgood, so a good day all round!
S: Travel home
S: Nowt.
Now to decide how to proceed.
I have no training plan in place until at least January, so I can do whatever I need to in order to get the elbow working properly. Things I learned from the trip were that climbing a bit every day seems to be perfectly fine, possibly even helpful, and pushing slightly into the discomfort zone is fine too.
I'm also doing twice daily neck and elbow stretches as prescribed by the physio so perhaps that is the cause of the improvement and the climbing is incidental.
What I think i'll do for at least a few weeks is on the days I don't go to a wall, i'll go into the Bouldershed, warm up and just do a couple of hardish problems, enough to wake up the elbow but no more, see if continuing the daily climbing is a good thing.
I'll also try to avoid fussing the joint too much, it's a bugger when i'm back at a desk doing my boring day job because there is nothing much else to take my attention but the fussing definitely doesn't help.
I'll make some not-too-ambitious, rehab-based weekly short term goals for now until the new year and then think about some long term goals for 2018, which will largely revolve around getting 8b if the elbow plays ball.
> Dandan82: Good to hear your are getting some climbing in at least- does this mean Mrs Dandan is getting first choice of crag/route?
Thanks as always Guy!
Yes it absolutely did mean she got first choice of crag, although I was still able to convince her to go over to Catedral one day so I could plan some future endeavours...
Fantastic holiday as usual, despite my inability to pull onto anything hard. I tried to stay positive and enjoy the great weather, good company and some easier routes instead, which seemed to work well.
The elbow has improved overall since before the holiday which is fantastic news, I think the level at which I climbed was just right to aggravate things to encourage a bit of blood flow and healing but not enough to wreck it further. Some mornings it felt more sore than others but it didn't necessarily coincide with harder or easier climbing the day before, there are way too many variables to be able to draw such a simple link, shame!
S: Travel at a very reasonable time, 6.30am start and arrived at the Casa at 6pm local time so plenty of time to cook dinner and have a beer.
S: Espadelles: This was the only cloudy day so we went for a South facing crag, tried out some warm ups on Punta Espadelles on the other side of the valley entrance, then did some of the medium difficulty routes at the first part of the main crag. We've always walked past these and on to the main crag in the past, where Mrs Dandan would complain that there was nothing for her to climb (because a lot of the starts are nails). I've no idea why we always avoided it because the lines look great and climb really nicely. Cue a top rope flash of Setareh (6c) by Mrs Dandan!
Dave opened an account on Maligna (7c) which has gone straight onto my 'to do' list, but after 6 attempts stretching into the sunset, he didn't quite get it.
M: Cabernet: Winner of 'Best New (to us) Crag' from the April trip, we were keen to get back up to here, the views alone make it worth the hike. Most of the routes start from a narrow ledge that is reached either by via ferrata or a short 5+, making them feel really airy. We did the unfortunately named Megapubis (7a) which is 7a all day long but still very very good. I hadn't really planned to push my elbow that hard as it's 6c+ in the guidebook, but I stuck with it and onsighted it, plus the elbow felt particularly good the following morning.
The weirdest point of the holiday occurred when our host, Mac, came into the Casa in the morning and asked if we would go to an Olive grove to be on Spanish TV... Cue an hour of harvesting olives from trees on old wooden ladders and eating delicious cakes soaked in olive oil while a Spanish film crew poked cameras at us. It was for some kind of 'One Show' style program about the local olive oil industry, they want to do tours like vineyards do, which seems a good idea to me, raking olives from trees was surprisingly therapeutic.
T: Can Verdures/ Cova Soleiada; Dave wanted to re-open his account with Doctor Feelgood (8a) from April, while I continued to try and tick the entirety of Can Verdures by doing Samson (6c+) which was off limits due to having bolts replaced when we were last year. It's very good though, although soft even for 6c+, it definitely not the 7a it gets on UKC.
I also did the first 4 bolts of Dr Feelgood in my trainers to retrieve draws, it's really that easy!
W: Espadelles/Catedral/Coma Closa; Dave wanted to nip up to Espadelles to finish off Maligna, which he did, and not a minute too soon as it was roasting when the sun came round! I did another 6c next to the one from Sunday, Guirlache (6c) which was just as enjoyable as it's neighbour. I also climbed the bottom half of Maligna to retrieve draws, which I suppose blows a potential flash (unlikely) but it was good to try something reasonably hard with no pressure. Happy to say it felt ok on the elbow.
We then escaped to the shade of Catedral and Coma Closa. I tried a nails 6c at the end of Catedral but it didn't go clean and it didn't inspire me to have another go. I did eye up Hard Crit (8a) though, which looks awesome and will definitely be getting another visit.
We walked up to the furthest crag from the road in all of Margalef, a new-ish sector up beyond Coma Closa with a 3 letter acronym name which I can't recall, it's in the shiny new photo guidebook though. Dave did a great looking intense 7b and Mac did that and a 7b+.
On the walk down I had the harrowing experience of watching a friend's dog have a bit of an argument with another dog, back up, slip on some gravel and disappear over the edge of the ledge. We rushed to the spot where he fell which was a straight 15 foot drop into trees and bushes, expecting to see him whimpering at the bottom in some state of injury, instead he popped back up onto the ledge a few feet further along, tail wagging, not a scratch on him!
He's a big dog too, German Shepherd sized, how he got away without some kind of horrendous injury I'll never know.
T: Cala Marta; Mrs Dandan wanted another hit at Sutils Perfums (7a), I dogged it up to put a rope on (it was a bit intense for my elbow) and then she had a couple of goes, turns out it's still really hard! Si opened an account on Local Hero (8a), it was good to see someone working it, all the moves soon came flooding back to me.
F: Soleiada/Can Dit Gros; Dave got back on Dr Feelgood while Mrs Dandan and myself wandered over to Can Dit Gros to find some fresh rock. Turned out to be a fantastic crag with a nice variety of grades. The draws were in Indian Holidays (7a) so we got straight on it, a very comfortable onsight for me and Mrs Dandan got her first toprope flash 7a! It was the best route of the week for me, interesting moves on good holds with a little roof to finish. There are plenty of harder routes around for me to come back to so we will definitely be revisiting this crag.
We saw James and Jenny Ibbotson (sp) up there too, they are on a year long road trip with their two boys, the lucky buggers. They told us that the previous day, Josh (the eldest son) had flashed a 7c/+ I had been eyeing up, then immediately onsighted the 7c+ next to it with no rest! Oh, and this was after coming from another crag where he had onsighted 8a... Crazy.
We walked back towards Soleiada and heard cheering, turned out Dave had ticked Feelgood, so a good day all round!
S: Travel home
S: Nowt.
Now to decide how to proceed.
I have no training plan in place until at least January, so I can do whatever I need to in order to get the elbow working properly. Things I learned from the trip were that climbing a bit every day seems to be perfectly fine, possibly even helpful, and pushing slightly into the discomfort zone is fine too.
I'm also doing twice daily neck and elbow stretches as prescribed by the physio so perhaps that is the cause of the improvement and the climbing is incidental.
What I think i'll do for at least a few weeks is on the days I don't go to a wall, i'll go into the Bouldershed, warm up and just do a couple of hardish problems, enough to wake up the elbow but no more, see if continuing the daily climbing is a good thing.
I'll also try to avoid fussing the joint too much, it's a bugger when i'm back at a desk doing my boring day job because there is nothing much else to take my attention but the fussing definitely doesn't help.
I'll make some not-too-ambitious, rehab-based weekly short term goals for now until the new year and then think about some long term goals for 2018, which will largely revolve around getting 8b if the elbow plays ball.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Poll for the UKCFC community - where to go for a long weekend (maybe week?) in Jan/Feb:
1. Margalef
2. Siurana
3. Monstant
4. Tres Ponts/Oliana
5. Somewhere else/where?
hms has deciding vote, but the first two would fit in better with a winter of strength/an-cap training?
Poll for the UKCFC community - where to go for a long weekend (maybe week?) in Jan/Feb:
1. Margalef
2. Siurana
3. Monstant
4. Tres Ponts/Oliana
5. Somewhere else/where?
hms has deciding vote, but the first two would fit in better with a winter of strength/an-cap training?
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I would be delighted to go to either 1) or 2). Needs to fit in with D2 term dates so mid/late Jan through to late Feb. Can do a week - prefer weeks as I relax into it more!
I would be delighted to go to either 1) or 2). Needs to fit in with D2 term dates so mid/late Jan through to late Feb. Can do a week - prefer weeks as I relax into it more!
1
In reply to hms:
Excellent - a week would allow combination of both crags venues.
Email me some dates?
Excellent - a week would allow combination of both crags venues.
Email me some dates?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Can you guess what i'd vote for...? Margalef is a great shout as it's a year round venue. I'd say a week would mean less risk of getting rained off too much, although nothing really seeps and there are stacks of overhanging crags.
The Ibbotsons were telling us it can sometimes get freezing fog in the winter, but I think if you go to Espadelles or other high, sunny crags you can get above it, plus you get to see the inversion in the valley.
Speak to Mac at Casa Catalunya for a beautiful place to stay with a wood burner and a sauna for those cold winter nights.
> Poll for the UKCFC community - where to go for a long weekend (maybe week?) in Jan/Feb:
> 1. Margalef
> 2. Siurana
> 3. Monstant
> 4. Tres Ponts/Oliana
> 5. Somewhere else/where?
Can you guess what i'd vote for...? Margalef is a great shout as it's a year round venue. I'd say a week would mean less risk of getting rained off too much, although nothing really seeps and there are stacks of overhanging crags.
The Ibbotsons were telling us it can sometimes get freezing fog in the winter, but I think if you go to Espadelles or other high, sunny crags you can get above it, plus you get to see the inversion in the valley.
Speak to Mac at Casa Catalunya for a beautiful place to stay with a wood burner and a sauna for those cold winter nights.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Siurana - strength means the short stuff like anabolica?
Margalef ++
Montsant too long for bouldering surely? Ditto tres ponts and Oliana
Outsider suggestion - Cantobre
> Poll for the UKCFC community - where to go for a long weekend (maybe week?) in Jan/Feb:
> 1. Margalef
> 2. Siurana
> 3. Monstant
> 4. Tres Ponts/Oliana
> 5. Somewhere else/where?
> hms has deciding vote, but the first two would fit in better with a winter of strength/an-cap training?
Siurana - strength means the short stuff like anabolica?
Margalef ++
Montsant too long for bouldering surely? Ditto tres ponts and Oliana
Outsider suggestion - Cantobre
Post edited at 12:27
In reply to Ally Smith:
> It's not all kneebars! But having the ability to spot and milk them helps if you're at your limit
Because we were climbing exclusively at Gran Boveda it was all about the knee bars! I never saw anyone (apart from myself and the Peugot) trying to climb any route without at least three hands off knee bars. It was quite an eye opener seeing someone struggle with the moves on the route I was trying but stopping every few moves for 5 min rest and chat whereas I left every knee bar (usually in a downward direction) more exhausted than when I arrived.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
You fly to Barca for all of those don't you so why not decide the week before going? If it's cold but dry I'd consider Montgrony, it's not somewhere you'd go for a longer trip but definitely somewhere you should visit, especially if you have non-climbers along. Any reason you've left Terradets/Colegats off the list?
Outside of Spain there's the crags around Nice and Easyjet used to fly there from Mnac at pretty convenient times for a short break.
> Poll for the UKCFC community - where to go for a long weekend (maybe week?) in Jan/Feb:
> 1. Margalef
> 2. Siurana
> 3. Monstant
> 4. Tres Ponts/Oliana
> 5. Somewhere else/where?
> hms has deciding vote, but the first two would fit in better with a winter of strength/an-cap training?
You fly to Barca for all of those don't you so why not decide the week before going? If it's cold but dry I'd consider Montgrony, it's not somewhere you'd go for a longer trip but definitely somewhere you should visit, especially if you have non-climbers along. Any reason you've left Terradets/Colegats off the list?
Outside of Spain there's the crags around Nice and Easyjet used to fly there from Mnac at pretty convenient times for a short break.
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - Rest
T - 30 push ups
W - 200m fr 4/4+ (25 routes)
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 30 push ups
S - Rest
Current total is 504 push ups (31st) and about 20 pull ups or summat. Glad to see I'm not the only one who refers to the climbing wall as the gym. It's down the local leisure center and it's all auto belays. Super convenient as it's about 10 minutes from my house. Each route is about 8m high, 3 routes per line 4/5/6(a/b/c) and 6 main lines. So enough for an hour or two of endurance training. Now that my son is sleeping a bit better, I'm able to get out once a week. So wednesday night it is!
I've got my regular partner fairly keen on the South Ridge of the Salbit. So hopefully I'll get a pass for that. Which will be a powerful motivator to get properly fit. I'm really hoping that I might meet up with a couple of FCers this weekend, but we'll see. The diet is finally moving in roughly the right direction.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - Rest
T - 30 push ups
W - 200m fr 4/4+ (25 routes)
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 30 push ups
S - Rest
Current total is 504 push ups (31st) and about 20 pull ups or summat. Glad to see I'm not the only one who refers to the climbing wall as the gym. It's down the local leisure center and it's all auto belays. Super convenient as it's about 10 minutes from my house. Each route is about 8m high, 3 routes per line 4/5/6(a/b/c) and 6 main lines. So enough for an hour or two of endurance training. Now that my son is sleeping a bit better, I'm able to get out once a week. So wednesday night it is!
I've got my regular partner fairly keen on the South Ridge of the Salbit. So hopefully I'll get a pass for that. Which will be a powerful motivator to get properly fit. I'm really hoping that I might meet up with a couple of FCers this weekend, but we'll see. The diet is finally moving in roughly the right direction.
2
In reply to guy127917:
In other news, I just belayed and seconded Lynn Hill...does that get me a bonus 555 tick? Thanks Bristol crew for the photogenic ticklist - hopefully the light was good enough!
In other news, I just belayed and seconded Lynn Hill...does that get me a bonus 555 tick? Thanks Bristol crew for the photogenic ticklist - hopefully the light was good enough!
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