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So following on from the Bear Grylls thread, I wonder what the dodgiest anchors are that people have ever had no choice but to abseil from. Or maybe had a choice but were too inexperienced/stupid at the time to realise or use it.
I think mine was probably a single Rock 1 towards the end of an epic retreat from high on the N.E Spur of The Droites with an injured partner when the rack was already mostly used up. I've often happily abseiled from a single piece but this one was somewhat heart stopping......
Post edited at 20:23
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In reply to Robert Durran:
Right at the start of my climbing we dropped off the In Pin in June one year and sideways wind and hail battered us like a sandblasting machine. I remember dropping some tat over a small, slippery spike, loading it with my body weight and just hoping I got down. So either I'm in a coma imagining I'm posting on UKC about my escape or I actually made it down.
Right at the start of my climbing we dropped off the In Pin in June one year and sideways wind and hail battered us like a sandblasting machine. I remember dropping some tat over a small, slippery spike, loading it with my body weight and just hoping I got down. So either I'm in a coma imagining I'm posting on UKC about my escape or I actually made it down.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I too had to rap of a number 1 wire during this:
https://www.coldmountainkit.com/knowledge/articles/pembroke-rescued-can-dan...
the wire fitted in a crack in a boulder buried in the grass - I never found out how big or small the boulder was.
I too had to rap of a number 1 wire during this:
https://www.coldmountainkit.com/knowledge/articles/pembroke-rescued-can-dan...
the wire fitted in a crack in a boulder buried in the grass - I never found out how big or small the boulder was.
Post edited at 21:01
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I was too lazy to put my harness back on, so abbed off a 35m slab with a South African abseil off some manky 5mm cord on a small tree. 3m into it, I realized I should’ve hoiked up my shorts and belt up, and had the rope under them - instead it was over the belt on my bare skin. I knew it was safest to just bare it and get down than take hands off to try and fix it. Still have the scars.
I was too lazy to put my harness back on, so abbed off a 35m slab with a South African abseil off some manky 5mm cord on a small tree. 3m into it, I realized I should’ve hoiked up my shorts and belt up, and had the rope under them - instead it was over the belt on my bare skin. I knew it was safest to just bare it and get down than take hands off to try and fix it. Still have the scars.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I once emailed off a single friend.
His name was Tom and he sat a long way back from he edge so I could retrieve my gear.
I once emailed off a single friend.
His name was Tom and he sat a long way back from he edge so I could retrieve my gear.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
He wasn't very social about it at the time, whinged like nobody's business about how uncomfortable it was.
Also, fat thumbs and iphones don't mix.
He wasn't very social about it at the time, whinged like nobody's business about how uncomfortable it was.
Also, fat thumbs and iphones don't mix.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
Camera strap, epic retreat in the Alps. It was either that or start cutting bits off the rope, which was new, and it was the first route of the long season . Or rather the first failure. ?
Had to buy lots of replacement gear before the next route too.
Camera strap, epic retreat in the Alps. It was either that or start cutting bits off the rope, which was new, and it was the first route of the long season . Or rather the first failure. ?
Had to buy lots of replacement gear before the next route too.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
during a hasty retreat off the matterhorn, just below the solvay hut, my mate abbed off 2 rusty blades with some cord between them. I could see them flexing even as he weighted the rope, I was so convinced they were going to fail, I unclipped from them and just hung on grimly. They held firm and here I am tell the tale, scary as though to be retreating off a big hill
during a hasty retreat off the matterhorn, just below the solvay hut, my mate abbed off 2 rusty blades with some cord between them. I could see them flexing even as he weighted the rope, I was so convinced they were going to fail, I unclipped from them and just hung on grimly. They held firm and here I am tell the tale, scary as though to be retreating off a big hill
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I made my first harness out off three leather belts off my jeans and went abseiling down some old Roman mines near where I lived.
Fortunately, I was close to the bottom when the metal buckles twisted and broke and the whole thing fell apart.
I quickly went out and made a new one out of tow rope.
This was the 1980's (which equates to the 1930's in Forest of Dean time).
I made my first harness out off three leather belts off my jeans and went abseiling down some old Roman mines near where I lived.
Fortunately, I was close to the bottom when the metal buckles twisted and broke and the whole thing fell apart.
I quickly went out and made a new one out of tow rope.
This was the 1980's (which equates to the 1930's in Forest of Dean time).
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In reply to top cat:
I'd have defintely cut the rope. I hope.......
> Camera strap, epic retreat in the Alps. It was either that or start cutting bits off the rope, which was new.
I'd have defintely cut the rope. I hope.......
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I think it's a couple of abseils I've almost done which were most dodgy. The tat actually looks decent from below, so good to go really. But then something makes you check round the back of the block 'just in case'. Bloody hell!
I think it's a couple of abseils I've almost done which were most dodgy. The tat actually looks decent from below, so good to go really. But then something makes you check round the back of the block 'just in case'. Bloody hell!
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In reply to Robert Durran:
On a trip to the south of France about 15 years ago, I teamed up with a woman who'd driven down from Lyon so we could climb at Mont St. Victoire for the day. We did a few easy single pitch sport routes then decided for something with two, possibly more pitches which was also a bit harder.
My bad luck that I ended up leading the second pitch which appeared to stop in the middle of a featureless 'nowhere' of rock. The only available 'belay' was the scrawny, dessicated and shrivelled remains of a pot-plant sized shrub whose hold on terra firma was marginal to say the least. You can imagine the reaction of my partner when I brought her up to the stance and proudly displayed my anchor-building prowess! She actually took it surprisingly well and, gentleman that I was, let her ab to safety first. But we agreed to restrict ourselves to fully-equipped single pitch routes for the rest of the day.
Thank you little plant, I hope you survived the experience as well as you allowed us to!
On a trip to the south of France about 15 years ago, I teamed up with a woman who'd driven down from Lyon so we could climb at Mont St. Victoire for the day. We did a few easy single pitch sport routes then decided for something with two, possibly more pitches which was also a bit harder.
My bad luck that I ended up leading the second pitch which appeared to stop in the middle of a featureless 'nowhere' of rock. The only available 'belay' was the scrawny, dessicated and shrivelled remains of a pot-plant sized shrub whose hold on terra firma was marginal to say the least. You can imagine the reaction of my partner when I brought her up to the stance and proudly displayed my anchor-building prowess! She actually took it surprisingly well and, gentleman that I was, let her ab to safety first. But we agreed to restrict ourselves to fully-equipped single pitch routes for the rest of the day.
Thank you little plant, I hope you survived the experience as well as you allowed us to!
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In reply to Robert Durran:
First time I climbed abroad, had to retreat off a minimally inserted, tied off knifeblade about 300m up in Pyrenees. Hadn’t used pegs on rock before that climb. In hindsight it probably was OK (edit to: actually was!) and someone experienced would have been happier than us.
We used up almost all our pegs on the way down but soon replaced them by removing them from other routes, without realizing that this wasn’t really the done thing.
Have seen a shoelace abseil anchor. I think there are one or two mentions in books of using them for aid ( eg photo in Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia?) so some are known to take body weight.
First time I climbed abroad, had to retreat off a minimally inserted, tied off knifeblade about 300m up in Pyrenees. Hadn’t used pegs on rock before that climb. In hindsight it probably was OK (edit to: actually was!) and someone experienced would have been happier than us.
We used up almost all our pegs on the way down but soon replaced them by removing them from other routes, without realizing that this wasn’t really the done thing.
Have seen a shoelace abseil anchor. I think there are one or two mentions in books of using them for aid ( eg photo in Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia?) so some are known to take body weight.
In reply to Robert Durran:
I think many of us will have found ourselves at the top of a sea cliff at some point, feet braced in a couple of rabbit holes and not a lot besides.
And always with a second who can't hear what you're shouting.
I think many of us will have found ourselves at the top of a sea cliff at some point, feet braced in a couple of rabbit holes and not a lot besides.
And always with a second who can't hear what you're shouting.
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=80871 wasn't too scary
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In reply to Robert Durran:
In 1980 we're doing the Blaitiere by the Spencer Couloir. We'd ditched our bags at the foot of the Couloir, and all went well to the summit.
We were decending the Ridge, which is supposed to be a scramble, but we couldn't find the route, so resorted to abseils.
I ended up at the end of the ropes in the middle of a blank vertical sheet of granite. All I could find was a thin vertical crack, so I hammered in my emergency peg, but it didn't quite go all the way. I wanted to tie it off, but the rope would be too thick, so I could only clip a krab in the eye. I clipped my harness krab to that one, and called my mate to come down.
It occurred to me then that we would have to hang the rope off the same peg for the next abseil. My mate arrived, and he hung himself off the peg too. We were both hanging off one dodgy peg in a vertical crack, nothing for our feet to purchase on, and we hung instead of standing off the rock for fear of pulling the peg out. We just about managed to thread the rope through, and I sent my mate down, screaming him to stop bouncing. The peg was in front of my eyes, and I could see it flexing and slowly levering downwards, crumbs of rock falling out from the placement. I was actually trying to hold it in by pushing it in with both my hands, even though I knew this had no effect. At last my mate got a stance, and I told him to tie the ropes off, which fortunately he did, but that didn't make my abseil any more pleasant, expecting the peg to pop at any time.
In 1980 we're doing the Blaitiere by the Spencer Couloir. We'd ditched our bags at the foot of the Couloir, and all went well to the summit.
We were decending the Ridge, which is supposed to be a scramble, but we couldn't find the route, so resorted to abseils.
I ended up at the end of the ropes in the middle of a blank vertical sheet of granite. All I could find was a thin vertical crack, so I hammered in my emergency peg, but it didn't quite go all the way. I wanted to tie it off, but the rope would be too thick, so I could only clip a krab in the eye. I clipped my harness krab to that one, and called my mate to come down.
It occurred to me then that we would have to hang the rope off the same peg for the next abseil. My mate arrived, and he hung himself off the peg too. We were both hanging off one dodgy peg in a vertical crack, nothing for our feet to purchase on, and we hung instead of standing off the rock for fear of pulling the peg out. We just about managed to thread the rope through, and I sent my mate down, screaming him to stop bouncing. The peg was in front of my eyes, and I could see it flexing and slowly levering downwards, crumbs of rock falling out from the placement. I was actually trying to hold it in by pushing it in with both my hands, even though I knew this had no effect. At last my mate got a stance, and I told him to tie the ropes off, which fortunately he did, but that didn't make my abseil any more pleasant, expecting the peg to pop at any time.
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In reply to Fredt:
Dodgiest anchor I remember was in Slanting Gully, Lliwedd. Raining bugger all gear but we found a bit of tat threaded between a boulder and the gully edge. it didn't move when we kicked it and we didn't want to excavate in case we spoilt it! Ta was pale, nearly white green but still bright inside the knot so away we went.
My first ab was with a krab that my dad made. Whopping big chain link with a slot in the long side to thread the rope through. Sort of like a nearly closed C. Blue poly prop rope I guess. I later improved my krabs, bending them up from 10m steel bar paperclip like so the rope could still thread in. We also abbed on baler string, the orange stuff. Even we were not daft enough to use the sisal version. That too was around the iron workings in the Forest of Dean.
Of course testing out various forms of frozen confectionary as anchors doesn't count as we chose to try that.
Dodgiest anchor I remember was in Slanting Gully, Lliwedd. Raining bugger all gear but we found a bit of tat threaded between a boulder and the gully edge. it didn't move when we kicked it and we didn't want to excavate in case we spoilt it! Ta was pale, nearly white green but still bright inside the knot so away we went.
My first ab was with a krab that my dad made. Whopping big chain link with a slot in the long side to thread the rope through. Sort of like a nearly closed C. Blue poly prop rope I guess. I later improved my krabs, bending them up from 10m steel bar paperclip like so the rope could still thread in. We also abbed on baler string, the orange stuff. Even we were not daft enough to use the sisal version. That too was around the iron workings in the Forest of Dean.
Of course testing out various forms of frozen confectionary as anchors doesn't count as we chose to try that.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
A single blade peg in a gully of armpit-deep powder in the Pyrenees. About two thirds in, in a sloping crack. There were supposed to be bolts, but they could have been anywhere or nowhere.
A single blade peg in a gully of armpit-deep powder in the Pyrenees. About two thirds in, in a sloping crack. There were supposed to be bolts, but they could have been anywhere or nowhere.
No.1 hawser laid loop on a small rounded spike from the exit of Crypt Route onto the buttress. It wasn't mine and looked pretty old. Completed a unique "climbing" day in the 'Coe.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
The original ab into The Tomb at Carn Gowla was described as from a toilet chain. I never did it.
I did ab into Yellow Wall at South Stack off the very dodgy steel bar that was wedged behind a moveable block. Cant find it now.
The original ab into The Tomb at Carn Gowla was described as from a toilet chain. I never did it.
I did ab into Yellow Wall at South Stack off the very dodgy steel bar that was wedged behind a moveable block. Cant find it now.
In reply to PaulTanton:
QED. You should be looking in the sea
> I did ab into Yellow Wall at South Stack off the very dodgy steel bar that was wedged behind a moveable block. Cant find it now.
QED. You should be looking in the sea
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In reply to Robert Durran:
We went to do the Devil's Chimney on Lundy. To get down the cliff to the stack required an 80-90m (ish) abseil. Couldn't find any anchors so we threaded two rabbit holes! We had to ascend that rope to get out too!
We went to do the Devil's Chimney on Lundy. To get down the cliff to the stack required an 80-90m (ish) abseil. Couldn't find any anchors so we threaded two rabbit holes! We had to ascend that rope to get out too!
Post edited at 13:36
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In reply to Fredt:
I think we may have a winner!
A friend of mine recalls seconding a pitch while new routing in Oman. On arrival at the belay ledge he found his partner just sitting there with no anchor. Unfortunately it turned out to be completely impossible to climb on upwards. After prolonged searching an anchor was eventually constructed by wedging a "marble sized" pebble in a shallow crack on the ledge and threading it with some "bootlace". After prolonged soul searching they abseiled off it to safety.
> The peg was in front of my eyes, and I could see it flexing and slowly levering downwards, crumbs of rock falling out from the placement. I was actually trying to hold it in by pushing it in with both my hands, even though I knew this had no effect.
I think we may have a winner!
A friend of mine recalls seconding a pitch while new routing in Oman. On arrival at the belay ledge he found his partner just sitting there with no anchor. Unfortunately it turned out to be completely impossible to climb on upwards. After prolonged searching an anchor was eventually constructed by wedging a "marble sized" pebble in a shallow crack on the ledge and threading it with some "bootlace". After prolonged soul searching they abseiled off it to safety.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I think it comes down to the situation you end up in at times.you probably push the boat out at times that seems with hindsight ludicrous in the vain attempt of avoiding the embarrassing need for rescue.
Mine was attempting a new winter route on Arran. We found the route came to a blank granite slab section. Traversing to the left we got a large off width that was like trying to climb a greasy pole that both of us tried and tried with the usual slide back to the bottom. We dug out boulders on the ledge to see if they were solid enough to absail from but each was just a rock. At the same time I was trying to see if any fitted the off width but no matter what angle didn't fit. I got to the last rock and my mate said NO! So we abbed off it. I got his meaning and luckily it held. Added to the situation we were probably the only climbers in the Glen that day.
I think it comes down to the situation you end up in at times.you probably push the boat out at times that seems with hindsight ludicrous in the vain attempt of avoiding the embarrassing need for rescue.
Mine was attempting a new winter route on Arran. We found the route came to a blank granite slab section. Traversing to the left we got a large off width that was like trying to climb a greasy pole that both of us tried and tried with the usual slide back to the bottom. We dug out boulders on the ledge to see if they were solid enough to absail from but each was just a rock. At the same time I was trying to see if any fitted the off width but no matter what angle didn't fit. I got to the last rock and my mate said NO! So we abbed off it. I got his meaning and luckily it held. Added to the situation we were probably the only climbers in the Glen that day.
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In reply to Lemony:
- I did that too, Arthur's Seat, mid-90s, after my friend pulled the roof of Roofer Madness on lead. The top does slope up steeply to the edge, so I still think it wasn't a dosgy thing to do.
> I once emailed (abseiled) off a single friend.
> His name was Tom and he sat a long way back from he edge so I could retrieve my gear.
- I did that too, Arthur's Seat, mid-90s, after my friend pulled the roof of Roofer Madness on lead. The top does slope up steeply to the edge, so I still think it wasn't a dosgy thing to do.
Post edited at 23:49
In reply to Fredt:
We have a winner! That sounds truly terrifying.
We have a winner! That sounds truly terrifying.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Having done a couple of 'interesting' abseils, escaping off the South Face of the Le Pave in the Ecrins, lost and in a snowstorm comes to mind, we always tried to minimise the risk as much as possible, I wonder what other folks have done to reduce the inherent danger of a dodgy abseil attachment point.
Specifically in the alps, we always made the ab as short as possible to a good belay, First man down tied off the bottom of the rope to a good belay, put gear on one of the ropes if possible, and if the top stance was good, but a dodgy anchor the first man went down on a single rope, with the top man taking a solid stance and using the other rope as a fairly tight safety rope. Even without being tied in, but with a solid stance and a minimum of slack rope it should be possible to hold the abseiler if the anchor fails. Always had some spare rope/tape and a couple of emergency pegs in the rucksac.
A lot of if and buts here, one just has to adapt to the circumstances.
Having done a couple of 'interesting' abseils, escaping off the South Face of the Le Pave in the Ecrins, lost and in a snowstorm comes to mind, we always tried to minimise the risk as much as possible, I wonder what other folks have done to reduce the inherent danger of a dodgy abseil attachment point.
Specifically in the alps, we always made the ab as short as possible to a good belay, First man down tied off the bottom of the rope to a good belay, put gear on one of the ropes if possible, and if the top stance was good, but a dodgy anchor the first man went down on a single rope, with the top man taking a solid stance and using the other rope as a fairly tight safety rope. Even without being tied in, but with a solid stance and a minimum of slack rope it should be possible to hold the abseiler if the anchor fails. Always had some spare rope/tape and a couple of emergency pegs in the rucksac.
A lot of if and buts here, one just has to adapt to the circumstances.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I pulled a peg the only anchor and fell a long way, serious accident. I don't want to talk any more about it except to say PLEASE folks take the greatest care with abseiling an accident can change your life
> So following on from the Bear Grylls thread, I wonder what the dodgiest anchors are
I pulled a peg the only anchor and fell a long way, serious accident. I don't want to talk any more about it except to say PLEASE folks take the greatest care with abseiling an accident can change your life
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