/ MoonBoard for lower grades

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L BorkHairyLegs - on 04 Nov 2017
Me and my partner are building a MoonBoard in an extension. We're also putting up an 8x8 foot board at 25 degrees with a kickboard for lower grade training - and for our daughter and her friends. MoonBoard problems start at around 6b I think. We also want a training board with lower grade problems. It would also be great if it was easy to standardize for shared problems and grading - like the MoonBoard. Seems like 25% and 8x8 (two play panels) is a good start for this.

Could anyone suggest a hold set (or hold manufacturer) that we could use for the lower-grade board that meets these requirements:

1. Problems from 4a to 6b.
2. Hold set symmetrical around the mid-line (to work both sides).
3. Widely available holds (not just UK).
4. Reasonable price - not expensive.
5. 45+ holds in total

I had considered two sets of Beacon's Mirrors holds as well as a set of middle sized jugs (https://www.beaconclimbingholds.com/portfolio-items/mirrors/) but they look like they may be too big, making hte probems too easy. Also the midline holds themselves would be better symmetrical in themselves (not just in pairs).

Any suggestions?

Cheers

Mark & Annie
Jackwd - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

A lot of Core holds are mirrored in the sets. Worth a look on there website.
L BorkHairyLegs - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to Jackwd:
They look good. Thanks.

Pricey bolts though!
Post edited at 14:35
Bouldering Ben - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

Don’t buy their bolts! Order stainless steel ones elsewhere on web - exactly the same for a fraction of the price
Stuart S - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

Not sure if you're aware, but Moon Climbing are in the process of introducing two new hold sets for the Moonboard, including a red set with generally better holds for easier problems.

I think I also read that they'll be introducing a 20 degree version of the board with associated easier grades for the same problems as are set on the 40 degree board. They'll also be offering different grades for problems climbed hands following feet, feet on screw-ons or feet anywhere. So might be worth holding fire till you see what's going to become available through Moon before you try to come up with your own standardised board set-up.

Also bear in mind that some of the so-called 6b+ problems on the current Moonboard set up are quite a lot easier than that (maybe 6a-ish - you learn to spot them as you browse the app). 6b+ is just the minimum grade the app allows at present.
stp - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:
I have had a brief play on the new set of holds and they definitely accommodate significantly easier problems - maybe down to around 5-ish when the board is set at the steep (40 degree?) angle. Might be just right for you when set at 25 degrees.
Post edited at 17:13
L BorkHairyLegs - on 04 Nov 2017
In reply to stp:

ok - thanks for the info on the new MoonBoard hold set - will be looking out for them.
thepodge on 06 Nov 2017
I've always like the Moon board idea but the cost and high grade problems put me off.

Even if they bring out new stuff its at the high end of home use and I cant see commercial use picking it up particularly quickly.
stuartholmes - on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

Try Holdz. They do lots of juggy holds, but the generals range are great with low footprints and good price wise.
He also does bolts at a reasonable price.
Wildrnes - on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

Hi when we launch the new set (Moonboard Masters December 9th) there will be an option to use the 25 degree MoonBoard, which will easily have much lower grade problems

Matt
L BorkHairyLegs - on 08 Nov 2017
In reply to Wildrnes:
ok thanks - trouble is, we're also building a Moonboard, and like most people who build them, they are fixed at 40 degrees. So going down the system board/lower grade board for the other training board.

I've found a good company for this that I think compares well to Core and Holdz - Rokodromo based in Spain. Free postage on orders above 300 Euros. I'm combining campus rungs/sphere holds with system holds. Bolts/t-nuts are cheap too. Think I'll go with this for now having looked at the suggestions - worth a look for anyone interested in a home wall. Loads of other holds and packs too.

https://www.rokodromo.com/en/62-training-tools
Post edited at 22:04
TomPR on 10 Nov 2017
In reply to BorkHairyLegs:

The quality of the resin holds is absolutely terrible and I've had the wooden holds breaking and cracking on me... I'd not recommend despite the cost being low. If I had my chance again I'd go for someone like LX Holds or perhaps Crusher?

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