UKC

In reply to J1234:

Hi Bedspring,

As the climber in uestion I can clarify with you that it is purely a terribly done knot which I am not proud of being splattered all over UKC There was a reason for it that before we started that climb I noticed that there was a really frayed bit on my rope about 2+ metres from the end, so I tied in with a REALLY long tail, and all that extra rope was wrapped into a hige stopper knot, then round my harnesss tie in points a few times. Oh it does look hideously messy and nothing tekky about it. I have since cut the dodgy part out of my rope!!

Thanks,

Dont judge me

Jimbo

In reply to aln:

Probably. Double rope tied together with knot well below anchor sling. Left hand climber abseiling from these with guide plate extended from harness by sling. Right hand climber clipped (slackly) into anchor sling by cow's tail with knot in middle with guide plate in loop so formed ready to clip into double ropes for abseil once partner is down.

In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

No judging. Just thought I had found a new system. Hope you enjoyed the Cinque, they are great aren't they.

In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

Hi Jimbo - it's a great picture!
Lizzie

In reply to J1234:

The second is coming up on two ropes and being belayed using a reverso type device in guide plate mode. One rope is tied on normally with a figure 8. The other is tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt.

In reply to duchessofmalfi:


Didn´ t bother to read the thread then?

In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

Good to see you had a good time. The Dimai is a great route!

In reply to jimtitt:

I read this: "It looks like its larksfooted onto the harness like a cowstail, but I am sure I can see it coming out of the knot and carrying onto down to the belayer. Can anyone clarify."

And posted this: "tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt."

Isn't that clarification or have I missed something?

In reply to duchessofmalfi:

I think you missed Jimbo's post at 19:03 Mon, in which he 'fesses up to being the climber in the photo and explains exactly what's going on. (You were pretty much on the money.)

In reply to duchessofmalfi:




Yes, the post from the climber in question who said it wasn´ t a cows-tail but merely getting the long end out of the way. Your "clarification" was incorrect speculation

In reply to jimtitt: In reply to deepsoup:

Ahh I took the post at 19:03 to be a reply to the post at 18:48 not the OP...