/ Whats going on with these ropes

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bedspring on 06 Nov 2017
looking at this picture https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=300914 and the left rope looking towards the climber looks to incorporate a system for clipping to an anchor like with a Cows Tail or a Beal Dynaconnexion (same thing really). It looks like its larksfooted onto the harness like a cowstail, but I am sure I can see it coming out of the knot and carrying onto down to the belayer.
Can anyone clarify.
Sorry if its a dumbass question, but my eyes aren`t what they once were
aln - on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to bedspring:
I can't answer your question, but I thought this set up also didn't look right https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=301296
Post edited at 18:48
youwillfindjimbo - on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to bedspring:

Hi Bedspring,

As the climber in uestion I can clarify with you that it is purely a terribly done knot which I am not proud of being splattered all over UKC There was a reason for it that before we started that climb I noticed that there was a really frayed bit on my rope about 2+ metres from the end, so I tied in with a REALLY long tail, and all that extra rope was wrapped into a hige stopper knot, then round my harnesss tie in points a few times. Oh it does look hideously messy and nothing tekky about it. I have since cut the dodgy part out of my rope!!

Thanks,

Dont judge me

Jimbo
oldie - on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to aln:

Probably. Double rope tied together with knot well below anchor sling. Left hand climber abseiling from these with guide plate extended from harness by sling. Right hand climber clipped (slackly) into anchor sling by cow's tail with knot in middle with guide plate in loop so formed ready to clip into double ropes for abseil once partner is down.
bedspring on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

No judging. Just thought I had found a new system. Hope you enjoyed the Cinque, they are great aren't they.
gethin_allen on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to aln:
> I can't answer your question, but I thought this set up also didn't look right https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=301296

Looks ok to me although I'd use a prusik knot to back it up
Post edited at 19:42
BusyLizzie on 06 Nov 2017
In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

Hi Jimbo - it's a great picture!
Lizzie
duchessofmalfi - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to bedspring:

The second is coming up on two ropes and being belayed using a reverso type device in guide plate mode. One rope is tied on normally with a figure 8. The other is tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt.
jimtitt - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

> The second is coming up on two ropes and being belayed using a reverso type device in guide plate mode. One rope is tied on normally with a figure 8. The other is tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt.

Didn´ t bother to read the thread then?
beardy mike - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to youwillfindjimbo:

Good to see you had a good time. The Dimai is a great route!
duchessofmalfi - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to jimtitt:

I read this: "It looks like its larksfooted onto the harness like a cowstail, but I am sure I can see it coming out of the knot and carrying onto down to the belayer. Can anyone clarify."

And posted this: "tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt."

Isn't that clarification or have I missed something?
deepsoup - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to duchessofmalfi:
> Isn't that clarification or have I missed something?

I think you missed Jimbo's post at 19:03 Mon, in which he 'fesses up to being the climber in the photo and explains exactly what's going on. (You were pretty much on the money.)
jimtitt - on 07 Nov 2017
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

> I read this: "It looks like its larksfooted onto the harness like a cowstail, but I am sure I can see it coming out of the knot and carrying onto down to the belayer. Can anyone clarify."

> And posted this: "tied on with a figure 8 and has a stopper knot and a very long tail which I think is configured as a cow's tail and stashed on the second's belt."

> Isn't that clarification or have I missed something?

Yes, the post from the climber in question who said it wasn´ t a cows-tail but merely getting the long end out of the way. Your "clarification" was incorrect speculation
duchessofmalfi - on 10 Nov 2017
In reply to jimtitt: In reply to deepsoup:

Ahh I took the post at 19:03 to be a reply to the post at 18:48 not the OP...

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